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  2. Yeah sure that’ll be great, thanks.. I had to watch duel every night for a month when I built this! I still enjoy it.. it’s totally underrated as a movie in my opinion.
  3. My better half was also not very enthusiastic at that time to drive around in the middle of nowhere for hours. If you want I can send you some pictures of what the area looks like today. Some spots from the movie are still recognizable today.
  4. Today
  5. Hi, thanks for your kind words and much appreciated.. I am a huge duel fan too but my wife thinks I’m sad so I’ll never get to visit the locations, I’m quite happy with the build and it is fully functioning with sounds etc, I will sort out a video just for you and let you know when I post it, I just need to find a suitable space to use it! thanks Jon
  6. Thanks all - I'll be buying a couple of liters of bleach on the way home and giving it a try!
  7. Unmasked the grill - happy with the results masked up the body too ready for the top coat JJ
  8. Nice! I ordered those tires. But I also ordered the decals sheet in 1/24th scale.
  9. I hit 80mph / 128kph yesterday with the TT02! Special thanks to NbTMM, Stew Mac, EL Dougo and others here who helped me. 20 more mph to 100!
  10. Pulled the trigger on something I've been wanting for a very long time: A custom cut CowRC Pro-Mag mat for the workbench! And been meaning to add one of these to my toolbox.
  11. Juggernut

    TNX 5.2R

    FINALLY finding some time for my 5.2r restoration. I've ordered lots of replacement parts in the meantime. Getting the diffs rebuilt and put back together:
  12. Geeez !! You are my hero ! I wanted to do this for Ages but my building skills are different minded. This is my all time fav movie and I am a DUEL -fan since i have seen the movie as a kid. Been visiting the filming locations during my last US-holidays (spent two extra days driving around Soledad Canyon Area to find all the top spots ). This is a fantastic build - especially the Fruehauf Trailer is absolutely spot on ! Hope you intend to do a vid with it running ??
  13. Avante steering set is for my Avante 2011 and Egress runner which needed a refresh.
  14. I've stripped a couple of chrome bodies. Soaked them in oven cleaner (the thick gel stuff in the orange box) followed by a run through the dishwasher.
  15. Household Bleach! Cover the car in a couple of sheets of kitchen roll then drench it all in bleach & leave it to sit for half an hour (the kitchen roll helps retain the bleach & keep the shell wet). After 30 mins remove the kitchen roll & scrub with an old toothbrush to remove the stubborn bits of chrome. Then rinse with water. Done this on loads of chrome parts & it works really well 👍🏼
  16. Dishwasher? Has worked I believe on chrome or gold wheels
  17. I'd have suggested bleach for normal plateing but no experience of this body!
  18. I'd agree with all of the above especially the bit about cut on the thick side of any line and sand back! Wet and dry paper of different grades to get a good finish. Be careful with dremels. Easy to get carried away. Having said all of the above at least if you are doing non lexan bodies you can rebuild bits with plasticard and fillers such as Isopon P38 if you slip😫
  19. It depends on whether the motor was getting up to full rpm or not. If the acceleration to top speed is almost instant with all the pinion gears you tried, then the pinion is too small. But for this to be the case, the top speed would be different with each pinion. If the motor is quickly reaching sustained full rpm, but the car is slow to accelerate and has a low top speed, then either the pinion is slipping on the motor shaft, the power is overwhelming the diffs and they're slipping, or the wheels are spinning inside the tyres. If the motor is not reaching sustained full rpm, then either the pinion is too big, the battery can't handle the demand, the wheels are bigger than standard, or something is binding. Does the motor get hot? This is all assuming neither the motor or battery are faulty. It's probably worth inspecting the diffs anyway. Even if they were adjusted correctly to begin with, and the spring was compressed a few times before installing, there's probably going to be a bit of bedding-in required. They should probably be readjusted after the first battery pack. Signs of slipping or not will likely be visible when you strip them down.
  20. I've been trying to resist itemising for a while but I'm going to have to start I think. I'd just like to point out that I'm a pretty skint person. This empire of junk didn't happen overnight. My limited budget has just given me a terminator like efficiency for sporting bargains. Also, if I wasnt single, there's no way I'd have this much crap filling up the house but after coming out of a marriage in 2012 and just drifting aimlessly through life for a few years, I decided in 2016 that I'd like to just split my time between parenthood and being a big man child for a while. When I feel like I want to be in a relationship again, I'm sure I'll clear a lot of it out but until then, I'm the RC equivalent of that single guy everyone knows with an entire disassembled car spread out their house in bits. I guess I'll start off in the kitchen! Cen ME16: Awesome "1/16" monster truck that is really just a 1/10 that's been squished a little. Tough as nails and good basher. It needs a complete tear down and rebuild because it was filthy when I got it and has only gotten worse. Nikko Midnight Crusher: A 1/10 twin Motor 4x4 MT. The same as the Hawg and Thor. Almost a hobby grade in an RTR package. The previous owner randomly sprayed gold plastikote all over it which I have been slowly trying to removed without spoiling the original decals 😖 eventually it will receive hobby electronics, bearings and oil dampers. Not a high tech truck but a cool looking 80s relic that can compete with the more basic hobby models from the era once it has decent electronics. Nikko Bobcat: Another high end Nikko that is almost hobby quality. This is a descendant of the 80s Dictator buggy and like the Midnight Crusher, used two seperate motors and transmissions to achieve 4wd. This is currently in the middle of being converted from 390 to 540 motors and like many of my projects, once I got it running and was smug with my achievements it entered the "finishing off" stage which has been known to take years. Feiyue FY03: Neat little twin hammers clone. I got some cheap adjustable turnbuckles for the steering and suspension links but they have so much slop its ridiculous so they need to come back off at some point. Apart from that it's been a great little runner. I also converted this from a 390 to a 540 motor and the stock electronics have coped fine so far. Traxxas E-Maxx 3906: The original E-Maxx. I got it dirt cheap a year or two ago and intend to run a mild brushless setup. The gearbox is in parts and I have the stronger metal idler gears from the later models but i just haven't got round to putting it back together. It won't handle a 4s+ monster setup but a 3665 on 2-3s should be manageable. WPL C24 Hilux mini crawler: Why do I own this? Surely one of these cheap Chinese crawlers would be enough but somehow I ended up with 3 different types!? Just so cheap and fun to improve. I have some metal gears waiting to go into this one. Ok, I think that's the kitchen done for actual vehicles. Just add about 50 random parts who's target vehicles have long been forgotten.
  21. This is an example , all done with said method
  22. Thanks for the advice. I'd love to remove it, but unfortunately I don't have any original pics anymore. As I said, this is an old project of mine circa 2012. It was posted on a website where it is defunct. I only manage what's left. Sorry for that. Cheers
  23. What do you think then? I have tried the diffs, gear mesh, looked to see if anything was causing drag
  24. You could try sticky tape - press on firmly & pull sharply ? I've had plating come off just with masking tape before - not intended...
  25. Hi all! Another long-time lurker, first-time poster here and I'd like to share my 'Toppest Force' project that I've been veeery slowly cobbling together over the last 6 months or so. I've never actually owned an RC car, and as a kid drove my friends Hornet & Boomer and pored endlessly over Tamiya RC catalogues. So with no prior experience and nothing but faded memories from decades ago I though why not go all in and build a car with enough scope to: learn how to build & hop-up everything learn how to set one up learn how to charge lipos safely learn how to drive one (!) join a local RC club and learn how to race (!!) repeat when it falls to pieces... Anyways, long story short here's where I am: - got chassis built with every shiny thing that caught my eye - bought transmitter, receiver, esc, battery packs, charger etc. - not gone anywhere near prepping & painting the shell So as I am firmly in the build & setup part of the plan I have the following questions: I blindly built the shocks with no thought on length etc. just to get experience. I'm going to go back and build again, what length should the front & rear shock be? Any suggestion on starting shock positions/hole choices? I'm going to swap the Fibre Lyte custom front tower out for the Top Force Evo styled version as with these shocks none of the tower mounting holes actually make sense and just appear to be for show When I have sorted the shocks out what ride height should I be looking for? And that's adjusted by shock spring preload right? When assembled the UJs have about 3-4mm of float between the outside hub bearing and the hex adapter. I've put nylon shims in to remove all slop (look at last 2 photos) and everything seems fine; is that expected? The front hub has 4mm or so float up/down in the carrier; is that expected? I shimmed it out with nylon spacers again and its smooth with no play (you can see the chunk of white under the kingpins on the underside shot) but that seems really excessive to me. The carriers are Tamiya 53226 with Yeah Racing hubs. I tried the same setup with GPM hubs and even the red plastic ones from the kit with the same result. I bought both the Yeah Racing & GPM alloy steering sets but cannot for the life of me get either of them to fit. Has anybody worked it out and have a reference image for me to take reference from?
  26. If there was no difference in acceleration between the 16t and 21 tooth pinions, I don't believe it's a gearing issue.
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