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  2. A few more attempts yesterday yielded super disappointing results as I'm not very consistent and can loose all my focus just because of a passing car on the street (I can't stand when people look at me while I drive my cars!). Then this morning I gave it one more try. I was completely "in the zone" and I improved by one lap. Not just by a few inches; I was half way through the new lap when the buzzer came! 😃 The tires had all the fun - these started their life as radials. Since Shimizu's are just not available where I live I think I'll stick to these kit compound radials (5$ a set on PJ). I'm reluctant to try the Team Powers unless someone has good feedback on them? I'm limited to 55mm size.
  3. Exactly my thoughts mate, for me the M-05 was a "revelation" in my RC driving. And a happy birthday!
  4. Apologies; that was actually the wrong video...Man, this has been a rocky build. I tracked down the issue with the 4th light failure...thankfully I was able to order some new bulbs without paying for another overpriced complete lighting kit. After all of this work, I can't consider it 100% complete & move on to another project until I have all of the lights working. The other big mistake I made was attempting to paint the driver myself. Perhaps I should have bothered to take a look at one of the endless number of YouTube tutorials covering this technique, but that probably wouldn't have helped much. The body isn't too terrible, but I'll never get the helmet/face to look right. I've been looking for a pre-painted option, but thought I'd check & see if anyone here knows of another source for pre-painted options (the one in @toyolien profile photo looks great) , or even a quality freelance painter who does this kind of work by mail. I lost my local painter, and would have several projects (including some vintage & irreplaceable bodies I definitely wouldn't consider painting myself) for someone new. Thank you again for all of the support!
  5. +1 on M2 radial. I think it is good all rounder.
  6. Hi, I run my TT-02 on asphalt, but in quite dusty conditions with a lot of tine stones ( gravel). Today car started to make strange sounds. Something like piece of board in bike wheel spokes. I checked everything from outside and I have not found anything suspicious. I will try to find cause in the evening, but maybe you have any first ideas, what can cause that issue. I can only add, that on stand I can barely hear this, but on wheels it is quite loud sound.
  7. Today
  8. Some progress! Received my 3.05 drill bit and 3x45 button head screws and opened out the mounting holes on the motor plate to fit them. Nuts on the other side Everything mounted up quite nicely My first Superstock motor tucked in nicely Got the c hubs and knuckles on the front. Parked it here as its not sideways raining for a change so i am going for a big walk.
  9. @alvinlwh Just moving to a smaller place, rents are getting crazy high and have to go smaller.
  10. I think it's simply to make the motor more user friendly upon reassembly? If it's adjustable people will crank the timing to the max, burn the motor, complain that's it's a bad motor etc? In any case it takes only a minute to trim the tab off and then you are free to adjust the timing
  11. Great. Great thread QD's, especially Monsters for me, are amongst the best Tamiyas, in that sense that they're super fun AND super reliable. Got a few of them, with my Bro: - Midnight Pumpkin QD (46004) - ClodBuster QD (46012) - BlackFoot QD (46016) - Super Sabre QD (46002) - 2x Avante 2001 QD (46010) Sir Nikko85, please let us know if you're OK that us, other owners of venerable QD's, do post some pictures/videos in your thread
  12. Now that I have the insurance to have bodyshell for this car, the next is to make sure I can pull parts easily (specially the one which tends to break easily). The way the design is done does not make room for many possibilities to split and fix splitted parts... This ran in my head for a few weeks... And if the solution was not to split but to do something else? I decided to add two small triangle at the front to ease printing stability in an optimal position. And went for some test print... Auto orientation in slicing with tree supports... I launched a test in PETG... Here is the results After support removal : Last step was to removed the sacrificial added parts and to see The result is quite satisfactory, and it opens quite a few possibilities. I'll order PC for those parts as this is the material known with the better layer adhesion. On the arms, I may think about PP or PC to build a reliable 44B runner...
  13. Nice idea. Spotted him here at 16.07min. maybe you wanna go through the footage, there are more 1999 races. Have fun
  14. Not much done on the Hunter side those days. I'm awaiting the printed parts and they should come to my door within next week. The rest was about searching hardware and solutions for the reduction. I've not started to adapt the 1/2 size chassis, but I'm close to start this. This morning, however, I made a mould CAD model for the Hunter bodyshell. This will be used only for the half size Hunter. I've deliberately not marked the motor cut as I'll need to adapt this to the targeted motor. Once the bodyshell surfaces are done, pulling a mold from it is easy : it's just additional work. The target is to print this scaled 50% and work it out from there... The wing mold was done quite a long time ago, and was probably the first time I did while starting on the bodyshell components...
  15. Hi I’m looking for a servo mount and any upgrade parts. Thanks
  16. Yes, it’s in Trenton. About 1.5 hours from NYC by public transport. Have a goggle for lots opening opening party/race vids
  17. I do love a Tamiya QD, and I do love a bargain. I recently picked up this QD spare parts pile for a really good price on eBay (£16 I think). Whilst the tyres were junk and the wheels were wrong the whole thing looked like it might be in OK condition. You might have also spotted a QD buggy rear axle too, which will come in handy for another build... As I tend to convert these to modern power (regular servo, brushless etc.) having a parts car is actually fine. My thought was that if there was something critical missing, at worst it would just be spares for my two runners. I find given the recent prices of Tamiya QDs online (I just saw a QD Blackfoot go for more than a regular one) it's far better for me to buy junkers like this, especially as I've got a body lined up, as buying a working car to mend just doesn't make financial sense anymore. Opening it up it was dirty, and some metal will need a cleaning, but overall it's quite nice (apart from the bits that aren't) with a complete, non broken clean chassis, steering parts and gearbox, hurrah. The plan for this thread is to make a reference and guide for anyone who might be interested, so I'm going to go slowly, and take lots of photos. I'm going to start with the power unit. Here is the gearbox. Spiders webs? Check. Mystery grease? Check. Bird mess? Maybe General yuck? Check. But the screws weren't rusted, so I could open it up. It's almost pristine under there, amazing! Can we just take a second to look at how well made this is; thick 0.6 Mod gears going into 0.8 Mod, metal motor plate (for sturdiness and heat transfer) and two selectable gears with a full differential. I've owned a few of these and even with a 7800 KV giving me 50K rpm they still feel stable and are relatively quiet. The gearbox takes 5x11 bearings, which will come later, but for now I want to focus on the motor. The standard 280 motor sits on the two nubs which come out of the motor plate. These are the standard size for 280 motors and are 14 mm apart. The Ezrun 2030 motor I want to use has a screw spacing option of 14 mm. As the motor is smaller than stock we shall need to screw it into place. When you flip the motor plate you can see the nubs are pressed from the original plate. This is great, as it gives really fool proof drilling guide, simply use a 2.5 mm drill bit, place into the recess and drill out, leaving you with two perfectly placed holes. This will be my first job this evening. There is space under the motor mount for screw heads, so there is no issue with these fouling the spur gear. The stock motor is a rather weedy 280 motor. I suppose Tamiya just never ever wanted this to break, but the gearbox can take such a faster motor than this, it's odd it's just so over engineered. A QD black motor was released as a hop-up, but from what I see this was only available for the buggies and tour caring QDs. The pinion a 0.6 mod 10 tooth with a 2mm bore. 99% of all toy grade cars I've seen use 8T pinions, so spares might be harder to find. The pinion is not very long. The QD buggies have a spur gear that slides along the pinion, engaging either high or low gears, but here the gear selector is a little further down the line. This might be what makes these gearboxes so stable, as I've often found a long pinion starts to produce oscillations. I will pull the pinion and drill out the gearbox this evening. I will also see if these could take a 380 or 390 motor, I've no plan for this myself, but it might be interesting to see and give people more options! To be continued when the toddler is fast asleep.
  18. The time has come to admit I have too many cars in the fleet and I need to get rid of some! I have the following all NIB: Monster Beetle 58618 sealed in cellophane £125 Dual Ridge TT-02B 58596 £100 Hornet Black Edition 84383 £100 Rockbuster TLT-1 47201 £250? (no idea how much these are worth, there isn't much recent history to base the price off!) Bigwig 47330 £300? Again, not many sales to judge the price for this one. These are all built and (mostly) very lightly used: DT-03 Fighter Buggy 58587, boxed and 90% built. Has the stock Torque Tuned motor and ESC which is still sealed plus a full bearing kit with the DT-03 CVA damper upgrade fitted; body and decals not used yet. There are 3rd party wheels and tyres on it (Ansmann I think) with the originals sealed and in the box. £80 Frog 58354 with stock motor and ESC, full bearing kit and mounts for front mini dampers fitted. Front suspension is back to stock since I found it far too stiff with dampers, but I left the mounts there in case I wanted to revert. £100 Lunchbox 58247 with stock motor and ESC painted and decaled to look like the Mystery Machine with a full bearing kit installed. Orginal 80s Boomerang which I used as a vintage racer. Has the twin front shock hop-up fitted with a pair of period correct yellow CVAs. Body is pretty tatty and the wing seems to have gone astray during a move. It can come with or without electronics, it currently has a Duratrax 16T Intellispeed ESC and a Team Orion SV2 21x2 motor with a LiPo cutoff fitted. It's got a hex conversion for the wheels to use DF-03 wheels with Dirt Hawgs all round. I can probably find the original triangle drives if needed and supply some original wheels with (likely very hard!) oval block tyres. £100 roller, £130 with ESC and motor. All prices are collection from the Abingdon area, postage is possible but will be at buyers cost. Open to offers if people think the prices are unrealistic, I priced based on ebay sold auctions where I could find enough examples. I can't upload all the pics in the 4.88MB limit, so I have put one of each car up, further pics available on request via email.
  19. Well, I think we can agree I'm incapable of following basic instructions. I assembled the gears and put the gearbox cover and spur cover on. Then I realised I hadn't fitted the sponge tape, so I took them off, fitted that and put them back on again. Then I decided I should look at the shimming of the bevel gears, so I took the covers off again, sorted that and put them back on. Then I noticed I hadn't fitted the e-clips in stage 2, so once more I took the covers off, fitted the clips and put the covers back on again. Each time with 11 M2.6 screws. Why would you design M2.6 screws for this? Anyhoo, no harm done. It was emotional but we got through it. 😂 That last beer in the pub last night was perhaps a poor choice. Time to go for a dog walk. At least I've got nicely shimmed metal bevel gears in this, a good functional hop up I think. Each shimmed by 0.4mm where the manual says 0.3mm.
  20. I wonder, why Tamiya blocked timing adjustability. Any ideas, except that they can release few exactly the same motors with different timing, to make more money? @Pylon80
  21. Hiya, Thanks for your thoughts...you make a good point about low-speed throttle accuracy...the WR01 isn't quite the precision racing tool some might hope for I think I'm going to fall onto the Sensorless side of the fence on this one...it feels like the more agricultural option, but I think it genuinely suits this application better. Thanks 👍
  22. So a first question - what's the purpose of this little screw and nut you can't get a wrench to, that seem to do nothing but plug a hole?
  23. Hello folks!! I'm in the process of painting and building a TA-03RS Pennzoil Porsche 911 GT1. The car was driven by John Morrison during the 1999 British GT Championship. There is very little information online about John Morrison. I'm trying to find a picture of his helmet. Any pointers greatly appreciated. Thank you!! *Edit* This is the best info found online, but it's unclear if this is indeed John Morrison and the helmet can't be seen fully:
  24. In that case, 12 mm should work fine. I need to check everything once again.
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