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  2. It's been raining here for the last two days so I have been driving my GF01FT inside chasing the dog. You folks are gonna get tired of hearing me saying how much fun this goofy thing is. It has the normal GF01 wheelie bar which some have speculated is next to worthless but that's not accurate. If you gun it from reverse to forward, it will "wheelie" on the wheelie bar as long as you hold the throttle. Just gunning it from a stand still will lift the front tracks about an inch then quickly drop back down. It's fast in the living room but pretty slow outside. Also, I can't decide if it's more fun to crawl super slow or run it like a hooligan. All this is with the stock 540, make me kinda want to drop a Torque Tuned in it. Honestly if I were to make a like of "must haves", the GF01FT would be in the top ten.
  3. Nearly finished up with Part 2 of my TamTech gear stuff. (continuation of previous long-winded post on March 21). Figured I'd post a pic of the progress. I still need to paint the side mirrors and finish up some small details.
  4. Glad this category is still gaining traction. And its still my primary category. Since i've just moved overseas and bought a house, i'll be getting back into the hobby soon once i settle in. Luckily there are 2x race tracks just around the corner from my place 😁
  5. Today
  6. This kind of thing is what 3d printing was made for. 😉
  7. I took the Rampage for a spin (literally), definitely more fun than any 2WD SCT I've driven even if it's more challenging to drive.
  8. I agree. If the battery tray was present, that would cinch it, but the one-piece rims almost assuredly mean its an original Mountaineer.
  9. I'm glad this thread got bumped. What a fantastic trip down memory lane. Funny thing too, I am still dreaming about the same kits I was dreaming about back then. I was just starting my freshman year at Baylor when I purchased a TA03 with an Airtronics Caliber shortly after David Jun won with one. I ran it for a couple months then sold it for a buggy. I can't even remember which buggy and I kick myself for doing so but I was a dumb kid. If I could jump in the go back machine, I'd grab several more TA03's and a couple of HPI RS4's. Also, call me crazy but it's great seeing saddle pack NiCads and nothing but brushed motors. I may be showing my bias but I feel the mid 90's was the high water mark for RC cars.
  10. I have almost finished this. I need to tweak a few things so will add photos to the build thread when I do. It's a 1977 Nikko 18 wheeler. Rebuilt to modern standards and electronics. 3D printed gearbox running a 6:1 ratio and 370 motor. Micro servo for 5th wheel And a few other 3D printed parts. At the moment it's on 7.2 AA pack and 40 percent throttle EPA as it's a powerful 370 and I don't want to damage gears or go too fast. It's still a hoot to drive and has an amazing steering throw and tiny turning circle. 5th wheel works well although I need to replace the hair pin connecting the servo with thread so transmits tension not compression. I am looking to print a 1/24 Edgarmon to drive it.
  11. Thanks to all of you for the thoughtful responses. It makes sense what is being said about the tires biting in initially and suddenly losing grip when transitioning from rolling to sliding laterally. I appreciate understanding the cars behavior from a physics point of view. I have developed a number of bad habits over the years. Driving a variety of vehicles on every imaginable surface has not helped hone any specific skill. I have been focusing on throttle control more these days and have seen a reduction in wheel spin. Adjusting exponential has helped this as well. Braking has been a lot harder to fine tune. I tend to hit full brakes at the last second. For some reason I find it very difficult to modulate braking. I think It has to do with the short throw of the trigger in that direction as well as the unnatural movement of extending my finger. That and the fact that braking happens when the car is at its fastest and has to be applied rapidly. This has also been helped with exponential and reducing overall brake force. Steering is definitely my biggest problem. The bad habits I have formed over decades are very ingrained. Full lock has been mentioned a few times in this thread. "Full lock" might as well be my middle name. I basically throw the car into the corner and use throttle to fine tune the line. I am glad to hear that turning the wheel past a certain point has diminishing returns. That is something I have noticed but wasn't sure if it was just a result of low overall grip. I imagine this is still the case even on high grip surfaces to some extent. I have been playing with steering exponential and dual rates. The trouble I have with making chassis adjustments is that I don't have a great baseline to work from. In general I have softened and lowered the suspension to assist in overall handling. Now that I know that this turn in issue is not just in my head or an optical illusion or something I can try to work on it.
  12. I guess Le Mans fits as a first run. I’ve not found a space yet that’s suitable but there’s got to be somewhere…
  13. My sensorless BL experience is limited to RC planes (from 20 years ago) as well as my current 1/27 micro on-road car. In both instances you determine the rotation direction by taking a guess, observing, and swapping two wires if you need to reverse it. I do not know if that would apply to your project but I would have to guess it does! Now I certainly wouldn't want anything sensorless in 1/10 scale as the poor throttle control would bother me; that might not be an issue at all on a WR though.
  14. That was a great read, thanks for taking the time. Been using brushed motors since 1991 on the race tracks, and there was still plenty in there that I didn't know.
  15. Hey guys, I just wanted to post my experience with the ORV drive shaft timing issue previously mentioned here. I didn't even know about it until another member reached out to me on IG and explained it was well known/understood by the community here! I finally managed to get a hold of a pair of 2016 Blackfoot rerelease shafts and the difference is night and day! I really hope Tamiya addresses this problem in future ORV rereleases. My IG post detailing my own experience with this problem: https://www.instagram.com/p/C5Eo_AHRvmS/ Another IG user's (fantasticplasticadventures) post detailing the same observations with his kits: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CYjzC-JF-8i/?id=2748264702161710882_28453774994 A really great reference post detailing the nature of the phasing issue:
  16. Original Tamiya (1992?) Mountaineer I'd say. One-piece rims, as far as I can see from the pics. Defo an original (old style gearbox). Bumpers should be white behind the grey.
  17. @GermanTA03Guy That is a nice comment! Thanks! I am still not so sure why, but the FF-01 became the chassis I love the most. For most people it is maybe just a silly plastic car. For me it has so much cool features like every model got its own wheels, the iconic bodies of 90s touring car series, then (not on the same level like the TA-03) the Hop-Ups that transform the look. And the icing on the cake: The balance/behaviour of this car. If you don’t have fun driving this, then I don’t know… Maybe, I know exactly why I love it so much If I could make a wish, I want Tamiya to do exactly this again. Looking forward to see you build one soon
  18. Hi guys, can anyone help with what truck this chassis came from and if it's original or a rere?. Thanks, Gaz
  19. The chunky 0.6 module gears make a bit of noise once you get up to speed, but it is still quieter than most touring cars.
  20. I have started quite enjoying brushed motors - the open end bell type - and the possibilities of modifying or improving things and ultimately having fun learning something in the process. So I thought I could document my tinkering with this thread. As a first "part" in this uber ambitious thread I figured I would go over making a Super Stock motor run in the reverse direction, i.e. clockwise. When I first wanted to get a brushed motor to run clockwise I did a bit of research. I found a few things, including an older thread of TC. All I will say is it is difficult to find a consensus on anything and there is sometimes many different opinions on how to do this. So here is my humble take on it. I am using a TZ. Before I open anything we can look at the timing marks on the can and end bell. The indentations in the end bell are 6deg apart from each other. The index with the "0" stamped on the can is the 0 timing mark. This means that if the right-most indentation of the end bell were aligned with the "0" index, the motor would be timed at 0deg. These are theoretical/nominal values - more on that later. In any case the TZ out of the box is timed at about 10degs. The TZ is rebuildable and very easy to open; when closing it back there is a little plastic tab molded into the end bell that matches a notch stamped in the can. Every open end bell motor in the current Tamiya offerings shared this end bell and its index. The difference is how Tamiya clocks the notch into each can. This is how the timing is determined at the factory when Tamiya builds the motors. For example below is a Lightly Tuned motor, the end bell is the same (only in blue plastic) but the notch in the can was stamped at a different location than the TZ: The other side revels how much the timing is: That is just past the first notch so I would imagine 7deg, unless the intention was to make it 6deg but the end bell was allowed to turn slightly before the tabs were crimped (manufacturing tolerance). Back to the TZ, let's open it now: The rotor says "Tamiya 23T" and has some machining marks for balancing, contrary to cheaper motors that use blobs of epoxy putty for balancing. Not sure which is best honestly. The washers are important as they are supposed to locate the rotor as best as possible in the heart of the magnetic field created by the magnets. So I will refer to the picture for reassembly: front 1 silver washer, rear 1 gold and 1 silver washers. The larger orange washer looks like a phenolic washer and is intended to protect the bearing from the arcs that are flying off crazily between the brushes and the comm! The round aluminum ring with 2 small holes is the retaining ring and is important since we are going to have to modify it if we want to run Clockwise! The retaining ring is inserted by locating the 4 round notches with 4 dimples imprinted into the can. Then it is rotated so that it won't fall off and to align it with the end bell when said end bell has its tab aligned with the notch in the can. As an unfortunate fluke, for our purpose of retiming to 10deg in the opposite direction the 4 dimples in the can would be right by the 4 notches in the ring and so it would fall off. So the fix is to drill and tap a pair of new holes as far as possible form the original ones. Let's start by measuring the hole to hole distance: Hole to hole is easiest measured from edge to edge rather than guessing where the center is at. Here we have 29mm. The holes are threaded to M2.5, so I actually had to buy a tap for the occasion, having never tapped anything that small! The cross drawn on the right helps center the ring before scribing a new line. Then 2 punches are made 29mm apart and centered. The metal is insanely soft and I simply pressed on the punch to make these marks. Tapping will be easy, and stripping something easier still! And we have threads! Very easy indeed. I only used the first tap (rough) and did not use the finishing tap and the threads were already very clean and accurate for the Tamiya screws. We then reassemble the motor, but before, I like to remove the ugly copper clips: These clips are only used to hold the magnets at the factory during the gluing process. Tamiya (or whoever builds these for them) only leaves the clips inside to save time/cost. The motor is easier to clean without the clips installed. Here is the motor with the rotor inside and the retaining ring, sporting its new set of holes: I marked the original position of the end bell on a piece of masking tape, before cutting the plastic tab off: And there we have it, 10deg of reverse timing. Some thoughts on accuracy performance differences compared to out of the box: The magnets are glued more or less centered inside the can, a can which already has its timing mark stamped. So 0deg timing is just an indication. Who knows if in reality it is not 0.5deg or -0.5deg. Then the notch in the can is stamped, again with some tolerance; finally the tab in the end bell is not a perfectly tight fit to that notch so there is a possibility that when Tamiya aims for 10deg, any given motor could be at 9.5deg or 10.5deg, or worse. For this reason I think the resulting motor is very similar in performance to what it was out of the box. Due to its symmetrical design, the motor will not know nor care whether it is turning CCW or CW. The only piece that is no symmetrical are the springs that push on the brushes as they reach the brush from one side. I can't see how this would have any impact on the clockwise configuration though! I hope this is useful to some.
  21. Hello both, Thanks very much for such thorough replies - I think I've got a better idea of how these things work now, so I'm very grateful for your time explaining this. I'm still a little bit hazy on what exactly "fixed" timing means, though...perhaps I could impose upon you for another game of yes/no/sort of? ▪️A Sensorless motor supplies the rotor position to the ESC via back-EMF from the three phase coils. ▪️A Sensored motor does the same, but via three Hall-effect sensors aligned with the three phase coils. ▪️Changing the timing in an ESC attached to a Sensorless motor running in reverse works fine, because the back-EMF builds up to the triggering level, regardless of which way the motor's running. ▪️Even running a Sensored motor in reverse (by swapping the phase wires) doesn't work, because the phase sensors are in a different sequence to the phase coils, which is why you can fix this by swapping the six sensor wires...or three of them, at least. To be honest, this doesn't sound very difficult, but would it work? I've now read appendix 4 of the EFRA guidelines, so thanks for prompting that bit of research 👍 So what does "fixed" timing actually mean? I thought it just meant the end cap of the motor couldn't be rotated, but I can't even see what effect rotating it would have on a Sensorless motor. In fact, thinking about it, if the sensors are in the stator, then rotating the end cap wouldn't affect a Sensored motor either, would it? Are the sensors actually on the end cap? Thanks for the ESC link - this is one of the many I've read the manual for, trying to figure out if they can run motors in reverse! I'm planning on going for 17.5T motors, so roughly 2000kV...does that sound a bit conservative? I watched a video of some poor chap trying to run a WR01 with 3100kV motors and it was utterly uncontrollable... Thanks again! 👍
  22. Only one? This solution (in the video) is very popular but it is not very clean mechanically. It only works because the parts are binding (because of slop basically). The good news is the car does not drive half bad with the stock upper arms. True they are not adjustable, but handling and tire wear pattern indicate that there is nothing wrong with the stock parts. Often people (myself certainly included!) want to remove slop so that the car feels "higher spec" when you behold it when in reality there is no measurable effect on the track.
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