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  2. Nicadraus

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Changed the stock steering wheel of the Radiolink RC4GS to an aluminum one with nicer and firm sponge. Added some carbon fiber decal accents too. Looks and feels expensive now.
  3. Today
  4. Mad Ax

    2 axle CC01? (CC02?)

    This is something I've been asking for for a while - the CC01 is a fab chassis and has done well to stay on Tamiya's line-up for so long, but it does have some fairly serious flaws and IMO is long overdue for replacement. Tamiya have the 3-speeds for the very top-end trucks that look better than they go; there's now a slew of companies in the ladder chassis solid axle class (Axial, HPI, Vaterra, Carisma plus more), MST seem to have cornered the market on the smaller bodies (especially Tamiya) but if you want a light utility vehicle replica with realistic independent front suspension you're still stuck with having to bring an old CC01 into the modern age. It's fun for those of us who love modifying the CC01 but can still be a bit soul-destroying when you realise the amount of time and effort and even cash you have to inject to end up with something that still doesn't perform that well. I do love the look of the 3d-printed front axles and one day I intend to build one under my Land Cruiser body. I personally think there's scope for a CC02, but sold in a variety of guises. For example, include a parts tree and gear bags for independent front suspension on some models, another parts tree and axle parts bags for a solid front axle on others. Have an adjustable wheelbase like the current CC01. Keep a tub-style chassis for lower cost, easier build and to save people from having to fabricate their own floor panels and arch liners, but consider a hop-up consisting of metal chassis rails and plastic cross members and optional plastic arch liners and floor panels, for those who want to go that extra level. Have longer shock travel as standard and put the shock hoops above the arches, not underneath them. I suppose narrower, more scale-realistic shocks are out of the question on a budget chassis, although shortened TLT shocks would be about right (with original-length TLT shocks as part of a hop-up path). I know I'm dreaming TBH - these days it would be hard to develop a chassis so versatile without massive investment, and nobody is going to do that while the CC01 is still selling well. And if the CC01 stops selling well nobody on the board will say "it's because it's outdated and people are going to other manufacturers" - they'll say "it's because the market for light utility off roaders has fallen, so there's no value in developing a new chassis." Well, that's my take on it, anyway :p
  5. So I've had this pair of shock mounts since last March and I have never really decided whether to use it or not. I was contemplating on creating holes on the rear part of the chassis to install this but the 100mm shocks doesn't need to stretch out in the back like it needs in front. But since the original mount of the CC01 is plastic, I decided to use this aluminum mounts and place it sideways. In that way, it can be adjusted to many setting. Forward, backward, higher or lower. The result is great. I also installed strut bars using some spare adjustable links I had, front and rear. It actually helped a lot in stiffening the chassis.
  6. Turbo051

    6s battery in a lunchbox

    My bad forgot id posted the question 👌
  7. Mad Ax

    CC-01 Pajero scale?

    I looked online and there was reference to an edition between 1990-1999 which had 18s, although I couldn't find a pic and don't recall ever seeing a stock 'jero on 18s. I'd imagine it was a road-biased sporty number with lower-profile tyres. 15s were the choice of the day if you expected to go off road, 16s for the school run.
  8. DK308

    6s battery in a lunchbox

    You already got answers to that question in your other thread. The answers you get here will not be any different mate.
  9. This is awesome @Pintopower! I already read about it on your socials but forgot to reply. It's amazing to see that TamiyaUSA sees the potential in your builds and understands how a lot of Tamiya fans outside of Japan feel. Although I don't expect much to happen, I really hope they pick it up in Japan and give us something new and useful that will last for the same amount of time the High-Lifts and CC01's have. In the last few years in the RC drifting scene we've had a bit of a shift with big brands like Yokomo and Overdose coming over to Europe for events and really listening to the market, putting out survey's to the people attending and bringing over prototypes and the team mechanics/engineers. It's great to see they are taking our market seriously. Let's hope Tamiya can do the same.
  10. Tizer

    2 axle CC01? (CC02?)

    I've seen 3D printed front axle housings for CC01's come by. They use the same diffs, shafts etc. as the rear axle and with a few mods (and some cutting) can be fitted.
  11. acprc

    TG10 MK1 Parts wanted

    I am interested in the battery box!
  12. ThunderDragonCy

    WR-02CB straight steering

    Hi there. I have a Comical Hornet and i know where you are coming from. It important to have the servo saver dead centre so you get even steering left to right, but that means as you rightly say, you need to even out any tolerances in the kit with different length steering arms. The car is quite wandery because the round front tyre profile makes it prone to moving around. Toe in is definitely the way forward. I took the wobble out of the wheels using 5x7 schumacher speed pack shims. They are 0.4mm thick and i ended up using 2 or 3 per wheel mounted behind the pin on the axle to get the hex to tighten down nicely whilst still running freely on the bearings. Another little trick is getting an angle measuring app on you phone and usibg that on a flat surface to measure the toe in on each wheel. Try getting it to 1 deg on both sides. If you want to make this adjustmemt super easy try getting some turnbuckles the same length as the steering rods. Another extension of this same issue is that i found the steering really touchy and over responsive just off centre. Again those rounded tyres just make it dive into turns super sharp. I have my dual rate on my transmitter at 100% non-linear and my end points dialed back to around 70%. Its worth playing with.
  13. Turbo051

    6s battery in a lunchbox

    What esc would you guys recommend for a 6s with a 6.5 turn brushless hobbywing motor?
  14. I am trying to get my WR-02CB to drive in a straight line. Well…as much as possible with this chassis. The trim/servo saver has been centered and both tie rods set to 35mm (slightly toe out) as per manual. In addition, for the front the following hop-ups have been installed: Tamiya 50473 - Hi-Torque Servo Saver Tamiya 54587 - Aluminum Servo Stay (WR-02,GF-01) Tamiya 54661 - Aluminum Hub Carrier (8 Degree) (GF-01, WR-02) I’m looking to adjust the tie rods so the front wheels either be straight or even slightly toe in. Been reading various threads on TamiyaClub and there was mention the following might help: Tamiya 54610 - OP.1610 Clamp Type Aluminum Wheel Hub Will this take the slight wobble out of the front wheels?
  15. When I look in the motor on the bench I can see yellow sparks when its running (forward and backwards). Some people mention that if there are sparks either: motor has not been ‘run in’ brushes have worn out (replace brushes) motor is dirty - run it in water to clean (?) motor has debris inside - unassemble/clean/reassemble What is the general consensus on sparks being emitted from a brushed motor while it’s running? Personally, I don’t see any issue. It’s only a backyard runner and motor has low runtime. I guess as long as the sparks are not flying out of the motor or any smoke, it should be alright.
  16. DK308

    Quietest ESC / Motor combo?

    If you want to treat your Bruiser to a sweet combo, here's one that is pretty hard to beat. Hobbywing EzRun Max10 120SCT esc. Tekin Pro4 3300kv sensored motor. That will be a quiet and extremely smooth running combo that will really wake up the Bruiser. This combo will definitely be well worth some lipo packs. The Antix 7.6 v LIHV 5200 mah stick packs would be an awesome fit. This combo would also be 3S capable if you really feel like torturing your Bruiser. Not sure I'd go there, as the gearbox is not really built for 3S power.
  17. Which ESC and radio system is it? When you say calibration, do you mean binding the tx and rx, or do you mean actually calibrating the ESC itself which has nothing to do with binding the tx and rx? When you plug it in and the motor spins, what happens when you move the throttle towards brake/reverse? Does the motor keep spinning or does it stop? Before addressing anything above, make sure all of the items below checks OK. All trims @ 0 Endpoints @ 100% Dual rates @100% Throttle is set to 50/50% operation. Some systems offer a 70/30%-30/70%. Make sure it's at 50/50.
  18. MICHAELs TopForce17

    Buying old nib kits for bashing

    According to tamiyabase it’s the same chassis as dualhunter and the last year made was 2008. Not that old and it’s a NIB so you should be good! https://tamiyabase.com/?option=com_joodb&view=article&joobase=21&id=78&Itemid=1063#models-with-wr-01-chassis
  19. geniusanthony

    The Day eBay Killed RC

    Several years ago I was searching for a nib 58099 and won a bid for one at reasonable money ...sub 300 usd. The seller claimed that on his way to the post office he dropped the kit in the street and it got run over by a bus. Everything destroyed supposedly. Later that year I did find one for also reasonable money. Last month I won a black edition grasshopper for 20$. All I needed was the neon wheels. I was the only bidder and it and seller claims to have shipped it. It never showed up, opened a case, never replied. Name was something trainsandthings. Just goes to show how dirty some of these sellers are willing to play. I am glad the re-re's are slowly bringing back things like old body sets and decals. Imagine trying to find a TA02 hks skyline in todays market.
  20. berman

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Been off work with a back injury. So I finally glued the tyres on my konghead. It used to act as a slipper clutch as it has a 4000kv on 3s, now it just launches and lifts the front. It still gets squirrely when it diffs out and the two rear axles tyres touch each other 😀
  21. Yesterday
  22. Oh it's just a something I have and I wanted to make it useful. Actually no heating problems at all even without the fan but still looks cool though. 😊
  23. jupitertwo

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Some masking and two stickers Any tips for getting paint into the rear wing creases on the bigwig with rattle cans?
  24. TDanny

    Buying old nib kits for bashing

    Today I placed my order for the Dualhunter and a few minutes later my LHS called me that there was a stock problem on their site and the DH is no more available But they offered me a NIB Double Blaze... what do you guys think? Its even more old than the DH but nice little truck. Will it be ok for bashing?
  25. Excellent opportunity there Pinto - congratulations! I've mentioned it a couple of times now on recent threads, but [very much based on your MST chassis/Blackfoot build] I would love to see Tamiya come out with their own/similar 'heritage' chassis range* - a modular twin-rail design with various cross-members (for motors/gearboxes and suspension/body mounts) and wheelbase options, to suit their existing (and any new) range of scale hard-bodies - seems like an obvious thing to do to me?! They could quite easily raid their existing parts bin for existing suspension/axles, and indeed it would be nice to see an IFS version of the twin-rail chassis too perhaps - using M series wishbones or similar. *I call dibs on it being christened the HC-01 / 02 etc. ;o) Let's hope they're inspired by what you and others have done with their bodies - and give us a kit-build platform chassis that is worthy! Jenny x
  26. RushRebel

    New Tamiya Monster Beetle Black edition.

    if I understand correctly, this is just a recolor of the 2015 MB. I can see the "first-thing-to-break" side mirrors, so I'll assume it's got the extra Scorcher body holes and no rear windscreen. Pass!
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