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  2. Yep that's the one on the top of the list! I've seen a few for sale but the prices people are paying for them are a bit ridiculous although they were a bit expensive originally? I'm in no hurry!
  3. I have been busy making some wheel adapters for my Clodbuster project. My wife bought me some 40series wheels and tires about a year ago and I’ve only just now got around to making the adapters for it. Hoping this will make it more fun in the snow and mud this year
  4. Do you have any pics of the model ships you have made? I get a catalogue from an old school model shop sent to me occasionally and they have various ship kits in, they seem to mostly come from Italy. I quite like the idea of them but the when you see the contents of the box it looks like a massive explosion of wood and string. I couldnt possibly see how all those slivers of wood can ever be glued neatly together.
  5. Today
  6. Subtle - almost looks factory fresh I hate this on cars as I have never really been able to afford (but mostly im too tight) to buy anything newer than about 20 years old so all the plastic parts go that way - if they are not screws they are those barbed/pronged plastic clips that 99% of the time break when you pull on them. When i come across those I dream of an old rusty screw - they are work of the devil. Especially annoying when you have to remove so much of the interior trim to carry out a routine service on the AC air filter or any bulbs.
  7. the pins I used are from a Tamiya 54695 set, they fit perfect in the lower suspension arm and the upper rear suspension arms on the rear gearbox, for the rest of the suspension I have different sizes of yeah racing pins they also are a perfect fit. I know the arms can crack from the srew pins, the first thing I do when I build a tamiya kit is throw away the screw pins and the step screws I never use them the problem I have with them is that they always come loose.
  8. Small price to pay for endless future happiness having to wait til the 15th Dec. Its all about keeping the peace too . Talking of ambushes, in asking sincerely what my wife would like for Christmas recently, after some time the conversation came around to what I'd like, 'Funny you should ask' I said. 'It just so happens Wild Ones seem to be filling shelves again after stocks being depleted from the last run that are in my price range and it was a toss up between the Blackfoot or Wild One last year' So before you could say Merry Christmas a Wild One was in the cart & ordered. I did use a Voucher I had left over from Fathers Day to that helped a bit. I'll have to wait for Christmas for it though. Now if I could just remember what is was the wife asked for ??
  9. Hello all, Im selling one of my projects. I bought this one with the goal of making my own version of a Kingcab rere, with a Rere Super Astute Trans etc. However I really want something different. The chassis is in good condition, no cracks, the rare parts are all there no issues, The ball differential slips a little, could use a rebuild. Its not a never ran shelfer, great project for a nice runner. Included body mounts for a monster racer, I have the rear mounts for a kingcab ill swap out if youd like. $175 American. Ill ship anywhere as long as you pay for it .
  10. I haven't started mine - not allowed until the 15th December (a family xmas a bit early since the other one is 8 hour drive away) It was part of the deal when I saw them available and ambushed my wife
  11. Cracking looking Top Force @moffman . @Jonathon Gillham can't be far off finishing his to I'm sure
  12. Everything works better with ballbearing but if you brass bearing and you aren't trying to get that last minute of run time out of it I wouldn't bother. If they were the plastic bearings I'd say bin them ASAP, however the brass one do just fine.
  13. I am yet to build my Top Force but have taken a TT02B to the track. Looking at the 2 kits i think the Top Force will be the better bet but can't be sure until early next year when I take the Top Force to a race meet. The TT02B is heavy and the longitudinal battery makes controlling the jumps in the air difficult - you basically can't. It may be ok if you run a shorty lipo, and probably pushed to the front to even up the weight balance. Neither have a slipper or centre diff either, so no difference there and both have rear(ish) motors as well. I can't think of a modern buggy with a similar setup you could copy set up sheets from either, sorry no help at all!
  14. Went racing today, 10th scale on an 8th track. The track has just been remade for the Counties Cup which is a 3 day event woth about 100 buggies entered. The normal club day was scheduled for today so it was a shakedown for the track. It was a fun day put but I think I need a new ESC for my 4wd buggy as after a heavy landing I had steering but no throttle. I run stock class and the racing is so close, often the only time you pass or get passed is because of a mistake. Now I'm tossing up whether its worth the extra $ for an ESC with 0.00018ohm instead of 0.0003 ohms resistance...it helps I've had a couple of beers so I can pretend that will make a difference. I also ran my Ultima RB6.6 with a slipper for the first time and it was better than the eliminator but is still not my favourite. Its on notice... My son did well though, at the start of the day the track was new to everyone and he was being marshalled less than many of the adults.
  15. Some people look at it weird but I honestly found the IFS interesting as it's very similar to push rod system found on F1 cars, Le Mans and some supercars. In my FF-03 kits, I have installed 0.5mm spacers in the Pro-R's rockers (both ends). The spacer makes shorter travel for the damper as well as making it stiffer. The RR didn't need it because I wanted a longer travel for the shocks.
  16. Thanks @GTodd and @Saito2 that answers my question - nothing that has to be done so I can do some nice to haves like hi caps. It will look great sitting next to its contemporary Top Force like this and should be a laugh in the vintage silvercan class that I keep meaning to get along to. I'm sure it will hold its own against the lunchboxes and novafoxes it will eb up against. Hey they may even get a 17.5T and have a run at my outdoor club! @King Zulu thanks for the input but I don't intend to win the worlds in 1993, I just wanted to know if there were any fatal flaws which are an expensive fix (like the monster beetle diff) but it sounds all good to me
  17. Bricklink.com - the prices here are however more competitive since everyone knows what sets are worth. I don't know about Ireland but in Australia sets go for way more than bricklink prices via eBay. You are best off selling each one individually and offering postage rather than as bulk lot. Take good photos, add an accurate description and set a price on the higher end of Bricklink used prices - in 1-2 months it'll be sold.
  18. I love my Astute and I just finished restoring it. Now I need a RC10 which the Astute was modeled after, I'd love a Rere but they are too much $$$$$$$ looking for a six gear or stealth RC10 for a winter project. What do you have?????
  19. I love my Astute and I just finished restoring it. Now I need a RC10 which the Astute was modeled after, I'd love a Rere but they are too much $$$$$$$ looking for a six gear or stealth RC10 for a winter project. What do you have?????
  20. Very nice!! But I'm walking for a Mid,/Lazer Rere!!!
  21. Thanks man!!! Just ordered 2 sets of Hicaps for it.
  22. Yep I've mixed them here and there mainly by mistake, with zero issues. I'm very thankful for the Super Astute Rere, it's put alot of my rides back in service and off the shelf!
  23. ....I had a clicking problem with mine that was a problem with the slipper shaft not the actual trans. Solved with a bearing. Zero issues now. It's probably the ideal set up, the gear differential and slipper for the truck.
  24. Zero issues!!! I'm running it my son's Kingcab!!!
  25. Yep. It’s a manual listed hop up
  26. Steady on, don't go rushing it! πŸ™„πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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