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  2. I ALWAYS wanted a Vanquish (the Avante was just toooooo expensive and heavy Back in the Day) Picked one up about a year ago and had intended to do a full strip and rebuild as I want to actually build it. BUT watched this and reckon I may just do the cosmetic bits I can see and leave the rest as I dont want to ruin what I have got.
  3. A few of us run these at my outdoor offroad club on dirt which gets everywhere without an issue. One used to run a RC10 rere with the motor hanging out the back, and 2 of us run them mid motor and never had a problem. I think those big cutouts allow the dirt to get out too. When you look at any new motor they all have big cutouts and most people get a few seasons out of their motors, generally changing because the next generation has come out and they are slipping back in the rankings. I know, weird eh, i was really worried about dirt getting in them, turns out i didn't need to be worried. Interesting about the gearing, was the DN01 produced in the days of mod brushed motors?
  4. Wow, that is awesome! Drifting takes a bit of practice but once you've nailed it you'll have great fun.
  5. Welcome! I had a Zahhak and I loved it. I ran a 13.5t motor and geared correctly it was plenty fast. Slightly contradicting Jonathan above i would avoid the Surpass motors for offroad. They have massive cut outs in the body for cooling and dirt gets in them super easily. I have had really good fun with these cheap brushless motors from ebay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162631223972 If the kjt comes with the tamiya TBLE02S ESC use that, it's fine. If it doesn't, i agree with people above, get a Hobbywing 10BL120. It's unlikely to fit under the body with the fan fitted but i ran mine with the fan removed with no trouble. Gearing - the stock gearing is really low. For 13.5 brushless i would recommend getting a Team Associated B4 72t spur gear and a 48dp pinion of 27t. Body - the Zahhak is an acquired taste in terms of looks. The Sand Viper and TRF201 shells from Tamiya and the Caynk from Team Azarashi all fit. Finally, tyres. The kit tyres are ok for carpet or tarmac, but not great for anything else. Get some good tyres for the surface you want to run on. I ran on grass and astroturf so i got the wide 4wd version of the Schumacher cut stagger for the front and a mini spike rear.
  6. Ohh I envy you for that haha! I've been meaning to go there since they opened a few years ago. They are all good friends of mine who I see a couple of times a year, but I haven't found anyone willing to travel with me there to make it affordable. They were maybe planning to do a big event this month, but it fell through unfortunately. I'll get there some day!
  7. Thank you for keeping this updated! You have a real skill for building and the best bit, lots of creativity and it sounds like you have been through it at times and this looks to be quite theraputic for you. Thats what I love about forums like this, its great to see that there is some real talent hidden away that you would never normally find. I'm a bit envious too to be honest - I can assemble a kit of parts ok but beyond that when i try my hand at anything different the picture I have in my mind my hands normally always turn to Homer Simpsons spice rack. Looking forward to seeing more.
  8. Today
  9. If you hold the can you may be able to tap the pinion shaft with a hammer to knock the end-bell off. I've done this with a Dyna Storm Re-Re pink motor that had a crimped on endbell. Paint flaked off the can where the two crimps were. If you do insist on trying this, maybe consider practicing on a similar motor like the Johnson 540J first.If you hold the can you may be able to tap the pinion shaft with a hammer to knock the end-bell off. I've done this with a Dyna Storm Re-Re pink motor that had a crimped on endbell. Paint flaked off the can where the two crimps were. If you do insist on trying this, maybe consider practicing on a similar motor like the Johnson 540J first.
  10. Radio Shack 1 channel(reverse and forward) 57 chevy around 1978.
  11. Wow Thank you, sorry I've only just found these posts !! The Parcel is still somewhere between you and me but I am sure it is very safe hands on its way, can't wait
  12. That's right. The tapered front springs on the Avante & Vanquish were required to clear the curved arm of the metal uprights at full droop. The Hi-Caps got around this by using a conical plastic lower spring seat that simulated the taper and allowed the shock cylinder to nest down inside at full compression. Pretty unique.
  13. True. Also wondering if a little weight on the front could be of some benefit just to get to 100mph. I know it's a bit of a band aid to do that but a little could help?
  14. Yeah its not low enough to the ground. It's still at stock TT02 ride height. I may have to limit the shocks and drop it down a bit. OR when I get my new body cut it low to the ground on the front. I also have the front bumper foam so it is up against the front of the body so it keeps the front of the body rigid and not collapsing under the force of the wind at speed.
  15. Hi Falcon#5 if you do manage to set up a run I would be interested in attending if that would be ok 

  16. Thanks for all the great comments guys and Mad Ax your little one looks so happy with her new Lunchbox I think it is really good to see the younger generation showing an interest in r/c there is a young guy a couple of houses down from us that has his r/c car going up and down the street all the time though his cars are generally modern examples which personally I find to all look rather generic and uninspired unlike a lot of the aesthetically incredible designs of the tamiya releases from the 80’s even so it is good to see the r/c hobby alive and kicking at least not all kids these days are addicted to the social media movement
  17. KEETER This bench locker is getting modified, so remember these two photo's......................................................... yes it's plastic and the seat lifts up, i'm making it sturdier and more, well you'll see.........................................................................
  18. some things are for the backyard in general, you are so funny for real. Just like my RC builds you just get caught up in the moment and my thoughts just keep click'n. the master plan is that this should of been done YEARS AGO. But i do not think it would of been as Grand. like every thing i touch some times i have to keep remaking it several times because other ideas or products pop up. and i believe it's funner that way, sometimes a pain peddling backwards but i know i'll make it uphill and eventually get to coast down
  19. Truthfully after the wife left and with my eldest son who was diagnosed with Crohn's disease when he was 15 and he's 34 now i have to take care of him, and it's just him and i here at home. when we all were younger i took my family everywhere possible, did the little league for nine years with three kids, well, by Cracky, (with the help and by the Grace of God) i'm doing every thing i always pondered to do with ideas and stuff i've had and recently acquired to get busy and stay focused on day by day as time and funds allow. i have not drank four almost four years, at 56 come this Monday i have the same energy as i did when i was in my twenty's just with more pain you might say this is a Journal more than anything, i'm having fun and wanted to share because the talents that are here just on RC alone are remarkable But i know we all have other great traits to share because sitting idle is not good for the body and soul. so on that note keep all your limbs within the ride of life and hang on!
  20. i purchased a few funnny car dragsters when Hobby Lobby opened here in town a few years ago, was using the bodies & engines for my Slot Car dragster builds, i think they were in the low to mid 20 dollar range. i thought the same thing but i wanted them and this town is scarce for almost any one thing that i think is cool to purchase besides food and clothes. i remember when even Toys"R"US use to have models including rockets, now they have hardly anything that i can purchase, seems everything is on line and endless of pickings and way better prices.
  21. Life was hard for this car. Bashed, raced outdoors indoors on a carpeted track with 2x4 borders, the rear arms were always a weak point. The fix? Add some rigidity... aluminum, JB Weld and tiny bolts.
  22. I've rescued my original SuperChamp racer from the clutches of a friend I'd given it to long ago. Other than no longer having the Thorp diff or any good remaining tires (probably gave ten different sets with the car!), it's as complete as it used to be. The original bits and pieces disappeared long ago, I've picked up some re-re spares to replaced cracked and broken bits. Do I remove all the faux anodizing (Metal tint spray can) and bring all the aluminum bits back to bare metal and try to duplicate it again along with the new bits getting the same treatment? Or go for the blast cabinet finish on everything? I am going to run the car... there's so little left. The Novak and steer servo still work perfectly! Currently restoring an early 'Cadillac' RC10 into a runner, as it was my replacement for the SuperChamp when it just couldn't be kept competitive back in...'94 - '95?
  23. 3D print is pretty good in compare to 20 year old plastic parts : ) Soon done with front suspension arm.
  24. thanks for you're replies. i intend to use it as a basher. thanks for you're info. answers many questions. michael
  25. To add to what @Juggular has already said. Its worth considering an ESC such as the Hobbywing BL120 (or something, not exactly sure of the name) or SkyRC TS120. These are brushless ESC's rated to 120amp and can handle motors down to 4.5T or something silly, which is crazy fast and you won't need (uncontrollable with 2wd). However, you may find you like a 10.5T motor, and they also give you flexibility of blinky mode, which means no ESC timing, or you can program the ESC to add boost and turbo which turns any sensored brushless motor into a crazy fast one. Getting 120amp may seem overkill but it gives a lot of headroom, and should be reliable. RCMart have the SkyRC TS120 for about US68 delivered. You can get the program card for about US20. That ESC should never need replacing (until you kill it by plugging the battery in the wrong way, everyone does it at least once). http://www.rcmart.com/toro-ts120a-brushless-sensored-black-p-67556.html?cPath=1560_2230_1021 Then for a motor you have a bunch of options. I think the Surpass V4S motors (US52 from Banggoog, check Aliexpress as well) are fantastic value for money. A bit more than the cheapest (about US40 for the cheapest brushless motor) but they are up there with the fastest motors available. Of course, if you go for a $40 one then just buy an 8.5T instead of 10.5T and it'll probably be as fast as an expensive 10.5T anyway. ESC programming also mean the motor choice isn't as critical. But for the extra $12 I think the Surpass is worth it. https://www.banggood.com/Surpass-Hobby-Rocket-540-Sensored-Brushless-Motor-V4S-Stock-Spec-2-Sensor-10_5T-13_5T-21_5T-17_5T-RC-Car-Part-p-1291922.html?rmmds=buy&ID=520184&cur_warehouse=CN The TBLE-02S which Juggular mentioned above is my goto for my fun cars. The ability to switch from kit silvercan/torque tuned/sports tuned to brushless is really useful. I don't spend money on faster brushed motors, I would prefer to spend a bit more for brushless. Mine all get swapped around depending on what we're doing at the time (my friends, my 6yo and his friends etc). Servo. Look for metal geared and of around .10 sec and 7kg or more torque. The "standard" Futaba S3003 (basically what everyone used 30 years ago) is about .18sec and 3kg. I really rate Savox, I've run them in my offroad race buggies for a few seasons and they haven't missed a beat. The Savox 1251MG is the low profile or Savox 1258TG is the standard sized that I use. They are about US60. However, the Trackstar TS-D99X is basically the same spec as the 1251MG for US25 from Hobbyking. I don't believe the specs, it doesn't seem quite as good as the 1251MG but its good enough. I run them in my onroad racers. I have just ordered a couple of JX pdi-4409 which are only US13 each and they have the same spec too. I have no idea how good they are, but I've heard JX servos aren't bad for the price, and these are going in play cars rather than racers so worth a punt. Radio - Flysky is cheap and cheerful and does the job. It does feel cheap compared to the higher end systems though. I have a range including Flysky, Sanwa and Futaba. It is a case of you get what you pay for. The key things to look for are: Price of receivers (really important, Sanwa are US80 each and its expensive to add cars) EPA - end point adjustment. The cheaper radios don't have it (eg, FlySky GT2) and you need it to adjust the steering travel (it hits on some cars and you either twist the chassis or wear out the servo as it tries to go past the point it can) and also you can slow the cars down if any younger or less experience people want a turn. And everyone wants a turn. Multiple model memory - some radios only bind to 1 receiver so you need a radio per car. Others have between 10 and 40 model memories. You may want some single ones so you can run cars together, or just run them on your own and not share and just need one. The Futaba 3PKRA isn't a bad option for a single one, it has EPA and is Futaba quality at a more affordable price. Battery - as Juggular says, get a charger that can charge all types, even if you go for NiMH initially. Around 6amp charge rate and 60w is fine for what I do (2s lipo batteries and NiMH). I find having both NiMH and lipo works well as its horses for courses. NiMH don't need taking care of so you can keep them charged and they are great when the kids want to play as I slow the cars down anyway. Lipo make a big difference to performance. Careful on the physical size of NiMH, the bigger the capacity the bigger the size and the bigger ones don't fit all the rere buggies properly.
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