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  2. If you want to do the gearbox with tamiya internals, I have all the dimensions for the TRF201 48dp internals with the TA06 gear diff option. If I had the mounting dimensions for the footprint and the motor plate interface I could work something out fairly quickly.
  3. For having “just thrown” some paint at that it looks immense. Well done on saving a classic 👍🏻
  4. S-PCS

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I think both of them look rather scary
  5. Today
  6. Nicadraus

    Alternative buggy bodies for frog

    I had a Frog back in the 80s and custom fitted the Boomerang's body and made a separate stay for the rear wing.
  7. Thommo

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    From a pink champagne Unimog with Barbie wheels to the War Rig..... this is a wonderful place !
  8. Home alone today, and after getting the chores done that my wife left me with , I attached the Protech body for the Edinger, I’ve been struggling with what colour to do this thing (I didn’t want to do the “camel” yellow traditional box art). I looked through what PS paints I have and pulled out white, Metallic Blue and Gunmetal. Then I grabbed the Tamiya masking tape and this is the end result Next to do is the Spot lights and driver figure, and then to finish off the chassis with electrics, motor and steering components (that I still need to buy)
  9. If there is a gap then it'll leak and there is always a gap. 1M cst will still leak through a hairline crack, just 1000 times slower than 1K cst, which may make the leak rate acceptable in a poorly sealed diff. Having O-rings and gaskets just reduces the leak rate substantially so thin oils can be used with an acceptable leak rate. There's no such thing as perfectly sealed, especially when outdrives have to rotate inside an o-ring, and hydraulic pressure can force the oil past a flexible seal.
  10. If you do the gearbox, be prepared for some alignment pain Also, I suggest swapping the internals for modern ones so you can get more diff options. With your susp arms have you considered recesses for proper bearings? Would be PLUSH.
  11. mongoose1983

    Best colour for a Bullhead?

    Had I have the chance to work on one of these fantastic monster trucks I know I'd love to get one painted in any of these colors: Metallic red, Shiny black or, better than those, Metallic purple
  12. Re-Bugged

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    That blue is a great match to the shock towers too Maybe you could hit up MCI for some 'Juggular Customs' decals........just a thought.
  13. I have a 3500 Nvision & a 4000 LRP. The 4000 gives a longer run time and a little more punch as you would expect over the 3500. I think Batteries are a lot like most things you buy these days in that you generally get what you pay for. I'd go for the best you can. After seeing a whole pile of Lipo's in a shop display I thought they can't be that bad and haven't looked back since getting one. Most chargers around now will charge both too.
  14. S-PCS

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Yeah, same here... As a kid, I felt it was just slightly over the top, just a bit too much styling and design, and I preferred the sleeker, simpler, meaner buggies. I'm not entirely sure about it now either, but I can and do accept it as a very important buggy in the historical Tamiya line-up. Really looking forward to see how it compares to the other HS family cars.
  15. nbTMM

    Slash 4x4 heat on 3s.

    Both esc and motor both have resistive losses which increase with the square of electrical current (if current doubles, heat quadruples). In the motor, the resistance of the windings, in the esc the resistance of the MOSFET transistors. Current is highest at stall, so the slower the motor is turning the hotter BOTH motor and esc get. When you increase the FDR (smaller pinion), the motor rpms increase for the same road speed and acceleration increases so you spend more time at high motor rpms where the current is low, therefore both motor and esc run cooler. Additionally, the esc has switching losses, which occur due to the transistor resistance being at an intermediate value between on and off resistances. Technically if operating at higher RPMs, more switching is occurring therefore there are greater switching losses in the ESC and it heats up a bit more, although I suspect this effect is negligible compared to the current as long as the ESC is designed properly and doesn't spend too much time with the transistors 'half on'.
  16. I am guessing it will come out where the outdrives go in. (I am talking about the geared diffs.) I presume as the silicon oil gets warmed up with use it becomes more liquid ?
  17. gizard

    Alternative buggy bodies for frog

    Bombproof gearbox? That's got me intrigued as I have an old frog that's been rebuilt with all sorts of parts (re-re bits etc and a blue chassis) but I also have a gearbox from my old grasshopper - pretty much the only remaining part - grasshopper chassis is long gone
  18. Re-Bugged

    Rcmart

    When I'm window shopping on RCmart via a Mac or iPhone 'Not Secure-' pops up in the browser search window. Does anyone else get this & is it worth worrying about? I've only ever bought from them through eBay and haven't had any problems. It seems to be cheaper to buy direct, but seeing the 'Not Secure' tends to put me off.
  19. Kevin_Mc

    Double Wheels

    Top work as ever Martin! I love the look of the Madbull with the dual rears 😍👍🏻
  20. Seeking all chrome Body parts for a Bullhead body, used is ok, and 1 x wheel UK please.
  21. Juggular

    Alternative buggy bodies for frog

    Oh wow, that's interesting. That's not an ORV. It's got a custom 4-link suspension. With a gearbox from Grasshopper? I wonder if it offered any advantage over the traditional ORV chassis.
  22. Grumpy pants

    WTB M38 WW or Audi Axle Tubes

    Gods question I’ll check with Jonboy who’s doing the refurb and let you know 👍
  23. Jason1145

    Best colour for a Bullhead?

    That purple does look good. I've got a new Bullhead body on the way so I will definitely progress this plan soon, I'm considering taking all the body parts off my stock blue Bullhead body and transplanting them over to the new shell to save buying all the accessories which add up ( tanks, rollbar, window etc). Cant decide on what colour flame decals would look best on a Candy Red body.
  24. WillyChang

    Slash 4x4 heat on 3s.

    haha yeah, I bought a Raytek 20+ yrs ago to help "nitro tuning" and it's been great since. Probably there's smaller keychain size units today that do same job for cheaper too. But you've gotta do it "immediately" after car stops running, plus where exactly are you meant to measure etc etc... different motors have different layers of insulation between windings & can. Plus back in brushed era, motor always got hot. wouldn't worry about overheating until the wires unsoldered themselves off the motor. In a race you just wanted the motor to last long enough to finish... some teams would chill their motors on ice for a colder point to start from. Whereas nowadays... ppl expect a hyper powerful brushless motor to stay cool "forever" running humongous battery packs that can run all day. Maybe when you have superconductors or watercooling otherwise the laws of physics/thermodynamics still rules. Brushed ESCs got reasonably warm too, hot enough to melt shrinkwrap. Fans can help or better still a giant heatsink with big thermal mass. The only ESC that I've used that never got even warm was Novak Cyclone - testament to their good quality FETs & design. Got a fleet of those, only 1 ever got warmish & lacked punch so it obviously had a fault... sure enough, brake FET had stuck on making a short. Perfect working again after an airmailed visit to its maker.
  25. Mahjik

    Help With ReRe Egress equipment

    http://www.pyramidmodels.com/shop/product.php/584/tamiya_egress_1_10th_scale_decal_set
  26. Mahjik

    Slash 4x4 heat on 3s.

    I've seen that mentioned with brushless (as well as the opposite). However, it does seem to be more involved as there are other variables to consider (wheel/tire size and weight which adds more load on the motor, spur gearing, and so on). Probably the best advice is to get a temp gun/checker to verify any change for the better or worse for each situation.
  27. WillyChang

    Help With ReRe Egress equipment

    wow that's good buying...
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