Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Now that I have the insurance to have bodyshell for this car, the next is to make sure I can pull parts easily (specially the one which tends to break easily). The way the design is done does not make room for many possibilities to split and fix splitted parts... This ran in my head for a few weeks... And if the solution was not to split but to do something else? I decided to add two small triangle at the front to ease printing stability in an optimal position. And went for some test print... Auto orientation in slicing with tree supports... I launched a test in PETG... Here is the results After support removal : Last step was to removed the sacrificial added parts and to see The result is quite satisfactory, and it opens quite a few possibilities. I'll order PC for those parts as this is the material known with the better layer adhesion. On the arms, I may think about PP or PC to build a reliable 44B runner...
  3. Nice idea. Spotted him here at 16.07min. maybe you wanna go through the footage, there are more 1999 races. Have fun
  4. Not much done on the Hunter side those days. I'm awaiting the printed parts and they should come to my door within next week. The rest was about searching hardware and solutions for the reduction. I've not started to adapt the 1/2 size chassis, but I'm close to start this. This morning, however, I made a mould CAD model for the Hunter bodyshell. This will be used only for the half size Hunter. I've deliberately not marked the motor cut as I'll need to adapt this to the targeted motor. Once the bodyshell surfaces are done, pulling a mold from it is easy : it's just additional work. The target is to print this scaled 50% and work it out from there... The wing mold was done quite a long time ago, and was probably the first time I did while starting on the bodyshell components...
  5. Hi I’m looking for a servo mount and any upgrade parts. Thanks
  6. Today
  7. Yes, it’s in Trenton. About 1.5 hours from NYC by public transport. Have a goggle for lots opening opening party/race vids
  8. I do love a Tamiya QD, and I do love a bargain. I recently picked up this QD spare parts pile for a really good price on eBay (£16 I think). Whilst the tyres were junk and the wheels were wrong the whole thing looked like it might be in OK condition. You might have also spotted a QD buggy rear axle too, which will come in handy for another build... As I tend to convert these to modern power (regular servo, brushless etc.) having a parts car is actually fine. My thought was that if there was something critical missing, at worst it would just be spares for my two runners. I find given the recent prices of Tamiya QDs online (I just saw a QD Blackfoot go for more than a regular one) it's far better for me to buy junkers like this, especially as I've got a body lined up, as buying a working car to mend just doesn't make financial sense anymore. Opening it up it was dirty, and some metal will need a cleaning, but overall it's quite nice (apart from the bits that aren't) with a complete, non broken clean chassis, steering parts and gearbox, hurrah. The plan for this thread is to make a reference and guide for anyone who might be interested, so I'm going to go slowly, and take lots of photos. I'm going to start with the power unit. Here is the gearbox. Spiders webs? Check. Mystery grease? Check. Bird mess? Maybe General yuck? Check. But the screws weren't rusted, so I could open it up. It's almost pristine under there, amazing! Can we just take a second to look at how well made this is; thick 0.6 Mod gears going into 0.8 Mod, metal motor plate (for sturdiness and heat transfer) and two selectable gears with a full differential. I've owned a few of these and even with a 7800 KV giving me 50K rpm they still feel stable and are relatively quiet. The gearbox takes 5x11 bearings, which will come later, but for now I want to focus on the motor. The standard 280 motor sits on the two nubs which come out of the motor plate. These are the standard size for 280 motors and are 14 mm apart. The Ezrun 2030 motor I want to use has a screw spacing option of 14 mm. As the motor is smaller than stock we shall need to screw it into place. When you flip the motor plate you can see the nubs are pressed from the original plate. This is great, as it gives really fool proof drilling guide, simply use a 2.5 mm drill bit, place into the recess and drill out, leaving you with two perfectly placed holes. This will be my first job this evening. There is space under the motor mount for screw heads, so there is no issue with these fouling the spur gear. The stock motor is a rather weedy 280 motor. I suppose Tamiya just never ever wanted this to break, but the gearbox can take such a faster motor than this, it's odd it's just so over engineered. A QD black motor was released as a hop-up, but from what I see this was only available for the buggies and tour caring QDs. The pinion a 0.6 mod 10 tooth with a 2mm bore. 99% of all toy grade cars I've seen use 8T pinions, so spares might be harder to find. The pinion is not very long. The QD buggies have a spur gear that slides along the pinion, engaging either high or low gears, but here the gear selector is a little further down the line. This might be what makes these gearboxes so stable, as I've often found a long pinion starts to produce oscillations. I will pull the pinion and drill out the gearbox this evening. I will also see if these could take a 380 or 390 motor, I've no plan for this myself, but it might be interesting to see and give people more options! To be continued when the toddler is fast asleep.
  9. The time has come to admit I have too many cars in the fleet and I need to get rid of some! I have the following all NIB: Monster Beetle 58618 sealed in cellophane £125 Dual Ridge TT-02B 58596 £100 Hornet Black Edition 84383 £100 Rockbuster TLT-1 47201 £250? (no idea how much these are worth, there isn't much recent history to base the price off!) Bigwig 47330 £300? Again, not many sales to judge the price for this one. These are all built and (mostly) very lightly used: DT-03 Fighter Buggy 58587, boxed and 90% built. Has the stock Torque Tuned motor and ESC which is still sealed plus a full bearing kit with the DT-03 CVA damper upgrade fitted; body and decals not used yet. There are 3rd party wheels and tyres on it (Ansmann I think) with the originals sealed and in the box. £80 Frog 58354 with stock motor and ESC, full bearing kit and mounts for front mini dampers fitted. Front suspension is back to stock since I found it far too stiff with dampers, but I left the mounts there in case I wanted to revert. £100 Lunchbox 58247 with stock motor and ESC painted and decaled to look like the Mystery Machine with a full bearing kit installed. Orginal 80s Boomerang which I used as a vintage racer. Has the twin front shock hop-up fitted with a pair of period correct yellow CVAs. Body is pretty tatty and the wing seems to have gone astray during a move. It can come with or without electronics, it currently has a Duratrax 16T Intellispeed ESC and a Team Orion SV2 21x2 motor with a LiPo cutoff fitted. It's got a hex conversion for the wheels to use DF-03 wheels with Dirt Hawgs all round. I can probably find the original triangle drives if needed and supply some original wheels with (likely very hard!) oval block tyres. £100 roller, £130 with ESC and motor. All prices are collection from the Abingdon area, postage is possible but will be at buyers cost. Open to offers if people think the prices are unrealistic, I priced based on ebay sold auctions where I could find enough examples. I can't upload all the pics in the 4.88MB limit, so I have put one of each car up, further pics available on request via email.
  10. I wonder, why Tamiya blocked timing adjustability. Any ideas, except that they can release few exactly the same motors with different timing, to make more money? @Pylon80
  11. Hiya, Thanks for your thoughts...you make a good point about low-speed throttle accuracy...the WR01 isn't quite the precision racing tool some might hope for I think I'm going to fall onto the Sensorless side of the fence on this one...it feels like the more agricultural option, but I think it genuinely suits this application better. Thanks 👍
  12. Hello folks!! I'm in the process of painting and building a TA-03RS Pennzoil Porsche 911 GT1. The car was driven by John Morrison during the 1999 British GT Championship. There is very little information online about John Morrison. I'm trying to find a picture of his helmet. Any pointers greatly appreciated. Thank you!! *Edit* This is the best info found online, but it's unclear if this is indeed John Morrison and the helmet can't be seen fully:
  13. In that case, 12 mm should work fine. I need to check everything once again.
  14. @skom25 I have most of my cars in storage (moving soon) so I can't measure unfortunately. Looking at the picture and comparing it against the connector length, the spacer should be around 10mm.
  15. As I mentioned earlier, DIY adjustable rear camber makes upright bit "woobly". What is better in that case? Have play on rear upright but adjustment of camber or... Much stiffer connection without adjustment?
  16. @Wheel_Nut Thanks! The Schumacher bits don't really lend themselves to a brace. I have also not had any trouble with this type of design on Ultra G or Ultra Hornet so it should be ok. It's a pretty chunky piece.
  17. Hope you have a lovely bit of time off between jobs @Mad Ax, surely there must be some break in the weather. It's been the most unbelievable winter. For me, my partner and son have gone away for a few days, so Friday starts this: Interrupted only with eating and a dog walk. I've had the TD4 kit for over a year but just recently it has piqued my interest again to build it. And since I'm home alone I can build it at the kitchen table, in just my pants if I want. Tomorrow is a big bike ride, beer and curry with mates. Sunday a hungover breakfast, maybe a return to the TD4, a long drive and a renewed effort to improve my 3d printing. Monday I'm going to spend time with my mum and make marmalade. Overall, I'm really quite looking forward to this Easter weekend.
  18. Picked up this HSP brontosaurus Pro in a package deal along with a couple of old Vkar Bison’s , a multi charger (AC and DC), 2x 5500 11.1v 65c-130c burst lipos ( one is a little puffy) , 2 x 3500 11.1v 25c lipos plus et another plastic parts box ( I guess one can never have too many of those) all for not a lot of money thinking hey if I can get one of them to go I can probably part the rest out. I spent half the day mucking around charging batteries, fixing broken wires on a transmitter battery connection and managed to get all 3 to run which was a surprise as they are all cheap 2.4G. The HSP wheels were binding so some quick sanding of the back of the hex’s sorted that’s immediately. Lots of other issues as expected on the vkars such as large split in one tire, a couple of shock bottom collars missing, lots of dirt and gunk yet to be cleaned off them all- that is perhaps a tomorrow job. Some WD40 on the rusty bits is in order. Need to drill some holes for one body which is not original(still has plastic on the outside despite a lot of scrapes from use). The Vkar’s electrics all work well once you realise the power switches on the controllers need a firm switch on but the HSP is a different story as it goes well in forward but brake and reverse are temperamental to say the least. I have googled the esc and you tube for suggestions on how to calibrate the 80a novatech esc but can’t find anything. I know I should probably just move it on but I don’t want it to beat me if you know what I mean. The issue I have is the esc has no set button - just an on and off switch. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can calibrate this it if it is at all possible? thanks in advance and some photos of the beasts.
  19. These tires are available to purchase now. I just ordered 2 sets for my JJ Ultimas.
  20. Well it's Friday again! And it's a Bank Holiday weekend, extra long with Friday and Monday off work. Except I officially finished my job yesterday, so this should now be personal holiday time, except wife and child are home for the next 4 days That should mean we'll do some family stuff, but my wife is a bit frazzled after a crazy work week, and the weather here has been awful with no sign of letting up for the next fortnight (there goes my 2 weeks off work...) so I think we'll just have a quiet one at home. Friday - get my daughter up in a mo, spend the day together at home. I think I'll cook a roast chicken this afternoon. Evening - probably spend some time in the studio, or maybe watch a film. Saturday - another day with my daughter, maybe take her out to an old house if the weather improves. Evening - cook up some ribs (from a packet) and watch a film with the wife. Sunday - Workshop Sunday! Really gotta make some progress on the race trailer, only 2 more Sundays before Iconic Cup. I spent all last weekend on it and mostly made the tail lift (pics still awaiting posting) but I haven't got the parts I need to install the servo yet. Also need to install the new control motor in the M03 and give it a once-over to make sure it's all set and ready to race. Evening - couple of beers and chill out in the studio. Monday - in theory we're meeting family at the beach, but if this torrential rain continues the sea will probably get to us first. Maybe just drive to my parents for the afternoon. Daughter is staying away all next week so wife and I will probably have pizzas and a film when we get home. Have yourselves a great weekend! Anybody got any RC stuff planned?
  21. I also used to be far too eager on the inputs. Perhaps because of running too lazy motorized buggies in the "formative" years . For me the change came with the M-05 - the opposite of what our competent @OoALEJOoO is suggesting. There probably is more roads leading to Rome, as a saying here says. With a FWD it's no fun spinning and you cannot do donuts, so the best you can do is to run it properøy. Then it became a goal to avoid wheelspin, brake loose enough so it did not just skid and turning in gentle so it does not spin or understeer. And not to forget; let the car finish the movement given by your last input before you give another (for instance; brake, wait for the car to settle, turn in). When I later got my XV-01 and used what I had learned I was instantly faster resulting in improved results for me in the postal racing.
  22. As suggested earlier I think it's a good idea to use a scaled up version of the current Racing by post course. Pylon80 suggested to multiply all measures by 1,5. So when the map for the "normal " round is official it's simple to make the scaled up one.
  23. @OoALEJOoO can I ask you, what is length of spacer/ post on front bumper on first photo?
  24. @skom25 All my TT-01 and TT-02 now have these braces. When installing them, you have to be careful to adjust the turnbuckle length carefully to avoid introducing camber, caster and friction inadvertently. The connectors need to freely move around the ball, if not then as you say the suspension will not be free anymore. The spacer posts at the bumper need to be sized so that the beams are horizontal when the suspension is pressed around mid-way. This ensures friction is minimal across the suspension travel length. In my mind they serve a few purposes (if installed correctly as mentioned above): Improve wear resistance of front suspension moving parts. Specially on rally cars, which are run in dusty conditions, less slop = less wear. All suspension elements of my TT rally cars wear a lot less once the car is shimmed and have these braces. Makes cars sharper. Less slop also means small steering inputs are more immediately felt on the car. If you have a lot of slop, then small steering inputs might lag or take longer to see. Also, setup changes tend to be a bit more evident. I agree that it's not a major effect, but you can definitely see/feel it once most slop has been eliminated through full suspension & steering shimming and a stiff servo saver. Tougher chassis part crash resistance. I haven't fully tested this, but I think the braces should reduce stress at the chassis holes where the suspension arms mount, since some of the crash force will now go to the bumper mount. The upright is probably just as unprotected (it might be even worse, now that there is less compliance) but I'll rather break an upright than the chassis holes.
  25. Not much to update yet, since I have been distracted with other things.. Easter seems like a good time for painting the polycarbonate body shell.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...