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  2. Holy cow Kevin, not my favorite shell (although my dad had the tl01 Version bitd) but you make every car look cool perfectly. Oh and i always thought the distorted hasseröder logo was sth. They actually ran, like the marlboro Black stripes etc.... well And the chassis is a true BeautY anyway. I love the looks of it, maybe even more than the Look of a hopped up ta02 or ta03. I just cant get round the fwd in my head. Didnt know you dont like the flamingo dampers.. i used to think the same, but in the meantime i like them... The Top Deck with the writing is sooo nice always.if i ever get a top force, i got to have the cfk top Deck at least because of the white Letters. And the lowering of the c.o.g. of course
  3. Ooh good tip thanks @Mad Ax I hadnt seen that mentioned in the instructions. Is thread lock a permanent thing like modelling cement or is it easy enough to break the grip if parts need to be dismantled?
  4. Hello, Sorry for bringing up what must be an old chestnut, surely thrashed to death many times in the past - I can't find "the definitive answer", though...the benefit of your collective wisdom would be much appreciated. I want to change the motors in my WR01 to brushless. The WR01 is twin motor and one runs CCW whilst the other runs CW. If I told you what I've read on the matter so far, perhaps you could confirm/deny/explain the issues to me: ▪️Sensorless motors can be run in reverse by swapping the phase wires, but the timing also needs to be reversed (e.g. +15 to -15 degrees). ▪️Sensored motors can't have their phases swapped, so can't be run in reverse like this; they have to be set as reverse running via ESC programming. Not all ESC's have this option, though, and I can't see how you tell which do, other than by reading their manuals. ▪️BL motors with fixed timing can still have their timing adjusted via the ESC...not sure about this one. Can the ESC adjust the timing of a reversed motor? What if the timing is fixed at non-zero? ▪️Some ESC's dynamically adjust the timing, but is that just sensored ones? Do you only get that with non-budget ESC's? I've only seen even the option to _reverse_ the motor via programming on a FlySky 160A 150.00+ ESC... To paraphrase Mayor Quimby, "I choose to do these things not because they are easy, but because they are hard..." Thanks for any advice 👍
  5. Thanks! I didn’t even know those plushy tips exist for a Dremel.
  6. Today
  7. BTW: Do I really need this steering limiter mounted below central shaft? Yesterday I found that probably there was tiny stone and scratched cup axle badly. I have steel universals, so I believe that with EPA set, it is not necessary anymore.
  8. My main RC workbench has always been a standing bench, I'll be on my feet from around 9am to 5 or 6pm on a Sunday when I'm working on my projects, and my back is better after a day of that than a day of sitting at my computer for work. Since I'm in the workshop, I'll be wearing sturdy walking boots all day - standing in slip-on office shoes sucks. That said, I've had loads of lower back pain too and it's been debilitating for me also, so I definitely feel your pain. Going for a standing or sit/stand desk may well be a good option. Last week I called in at a shop dedicated to workspace options for people with back pain. I was recommended a Capisco 8106 chair - look it up online. They aren't cheap but I had a trial on one and it seems like a game changer. It can be a regular sit-down chair but ergonomically designed, and the perfect height for stretching out my back (I got some nice cracks while testing it out). Also it can lift up as a "perch" for sit-standing, you sort of straddle it (hence the odd shape seat), it takes the weight off your feet but still lets your back be straight. Finally, the real deal for me, is you can it on it backwards and rest your belly against the rest. I spend a lot of time typing, so my feet are forwards, my back is reclining, but my shoulders are forwards to reach the keys, so I'm in a C-shape, like pretty much every other desk jockey. The deal with the new position is my entire body is straight, my feet are behind me, my hips are straight, my back is straight, and I'm canted towards the desk, so I can get close to the screen and keyboard without having to hunch. I figure if you're hunching over to get the vision detail, some kind of reverse sitting arrangement might help. I'm going back to the shop today for an extended trail, maybe 2 hours, to make sure it's going to be right for me, as it's a lot of money to blow if I don't get on with it. But since I'm changing jobs next month it seems like the perfect time to refit my office and try this sit-stand thing that everyone is raving about.
  9. You can try to take a run on the rally blocks you got with your XV-01 (without the body, because of overall diameter). The hard kit ones are good overall tyres on tarmac in typical winter/spring conditions. As long as you limit the wheelspin you'll be surprised how good they grip and the low wear rate.
  10. I will start with different question: Do you know theory, how to handle understeer? Common mistake is to try turn wheels more, if front starts to go straight. You have to reduce wheels angle, to have gain grip and then try to turn again. Of course, it is bit tricky in RC world but it is how it works. Maybe you should calm down steering with Exponential settings?
  11. I was totally shocked. I thought that there will be some dirt, because wheels are inside body, but I have not expected so much gravel and dust. That was my idea too. I will try. I canceled Adjustable Arms and ordered Aluminium Uprights. Maybe I will try to install adjustable rear camber, but I am not sure. I do not want to change too many things at once. In terms of tires, I bought #22000 few days ago. However, first I want to learn how to drive car and feel it on stock tires. When I will be more confident and tires will be worn, I will change them.
  12. You're not kidding about the dirt, my fingers always got filthy handling my on-road cars after a run or two. Before buying more hop-ups, you might want to run softer springs, yellow front, red back, so less twitchy and more grip, better tires will help too. I always run soft springs on my on-road bashers jfor the extra grip, and it's better at absorbing bumps.
  13. Oh you won't have to worry about the kei-truck for this round, you'll have this to content with:
  14. I used to teeter tottering between calling the stock TT02 "toy grade" and all that...after fiddling with a few Chinese-brand RCs I've come to appreciate the TT02 more (and really most of Tamiyas cheap stuff). At least they accept standard 1/10 electronics, wheels, etc.
  15. @Otis311 I think that what you are describing is the result of losing grip because of sliding. A tire will have more grip when rolling than when sliding (rolling friction is higher than sliding friction). On a loose surface, the front tires will initially bite, as grip will momentarily increase as it transitions from going straight to initiating the turn and also some extra front weight transfer. After a split second, if the required grip exceeds the available rolling grip, which will happen easily on a loose surface, the front tires transition from rolling to sliding. Sliding has very low grip, therefore the understeer effect. Edit: Perhaps softening the front springs, tweaking front toe-out and/or rear droop could help. Keeping a slight throttle mid and late-turn might also increase steering.
  16. Here is the exploded view: https://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/ez/pdf/34405_SANDMASTER2_0_ex.pdf It looks like they went to hex head hardware, still mostly tapping screws. I just picked up on ebay a slider monster tracker. I thought it was a Monster Tracker 2.0, but it is 1.0, with the droopy motor butt with only 2-3 motor mount holes. Still figuring out what body I am going to try and put on it. It is my first Kyosho in 30+ years!
  17. I used 3m perfect it 'fast cut plus extreme' The tools used is an old dremel and a mirka deros sand/rotating machine ( for example outside the body you can do a good polish with wool pad ) the pads I have some big ones from rupees and a small bit set from amazon or alieexpress I think. Sadly enough the dremel I have since I was a kid I think, so after a rebuild I noticed the speeds dident match and once plugged and turned on it jumps to hyperspeed, might replace for a new one ( I can get way better results ) Edit 2: forgot to mention I just take a normal elec. drill ( I got a regular parkside drill ) and put the small polishing pads on that one ( it will not be as fast as a dremel but way safer for sure ) Edit : I also have 2 other 3m compounds yellow and blue (finishing for swirls etc) , but I think these go well for the car clearcoat and would be overkill for a small lexan body, I have 2 body's to test on so I would not mind experimenting on these in the future. I hope mods wont mind if I share a vid I did on restoring lights / lamps of a car. The car lights are also polycarbonate lexan ( maybe with a extra layer or 2 on top ) but as you can see you can get a glass finish. This is also possible on a tamiya/lexan body but you have to be extremely patient and only use crazy sandpaper like kovax 3m specials.
  18. @Pylon80 My first as well, I am very happy it came with it, so now I know the proper way to install when I build my vintage XJR-12
  19. Yesterday
  20. Just Truckin’ about while is p’ing down with rain and waiting to go and pick up my Mum & Sister from the airport 😃
  21. With the end of the month coming, a new Postal Racing round will begin shortly. Shall we kick off the Endurance Racing by Post at the same time? @wtcc5 I would be excited to enter the Jaguar alongside your C11!
  22. I like that, good common sense!
  23. When the time comes to change your tyres, you could save a bit of money and gain a bit of ground clearance by fitting the FTX Vantage wheels and tyres, which are taller and typically cheaper than the Tamiya equivalents. That is what I run on mine: I also see your rear wing appears to be missing. An original replacement would typically come as part of a body set and thus be a tad costly, but again aftermarket is your friend. The Schumacher Talon wing for example is cheaper than a Rising Storm body set, more robust than the original, and also has more effective aerodynamics. My original Rising Storm wing is still going strong, but when it inevitably gives way, I'll put a Talon wing on it as I have done with my Manta Ray:
  24. Cool @Grumpy pants 👍🏻, just thinking the wheels off your XV-01 would fit on there for a test run? Maybe the body too (if it had one can’t quite remember) until the Skyline is painted up. A basic TT02 with only aTorque Tuned in it can be a great care free budget friendly runner, so the TT02D with a ST should be fun,
  25. Right. Let's just use the Tamiya screwdrivers for the Tamiya JIS screws and Phillips #2 screwdrivers for Phillips #2 screws, and enjoy proper tools working properly.
  26. Due to coming with a steel pinion and metal diff parts as stock, it is a great candidate for brushless power - all you need to do is swap out the plastic propshaft for a metal one (it uses the same shaft as the TT-01 so you have plenty of options) and the drivetrain is rock solid. Mine has been running 13.5t on 2s for years with no perceptible drivetrain wear. And you got it for less than ten bucks? What a bargain!
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