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I had a re-re Brat, the re-release is worse in a few areas (no decals for the hard body, dogbones that fall out easier than the old hex drives, same exact crap gearbox as the original).
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Just to clarify, you've had 2 of the original style rerelease 2011 Avantes (cam-loc wheel, etc.) and they didn't come with the center ball diff that's pictured on the ide of the box? I thought only Black Special version omitted this for the Egress-style center locked/twin f/r ball diff setup.
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In the original thread I started about this earlier, I admit I had some trepidation about being a bit negative about the price. But, I figured we're all here to talk about toy cars so having an opinion is ok as long as one respects other's opinions. I'm happy for those that see value in this rerelease which is more representative of the original and less of a display piece than the clear version. I'm in the hard "nope" category as well unfortunately although I'm glad not to be alone in that. I have sold off cars to make room and saved back for this RC10 but its just too much money. Its much like the feeling I mentioned in the "That's too much!" thread. When I see pricing like that, much like a $10+ can of paint, I can't help but feel we're being taken advantage of. This is even more true with something that tugs on the heartstrings like the return of the RC10 certainly does for some. This "Limited Edition!!!" FOMO crap angle doesn't help either. There will no doubt be defenders of the price and Associated's actions and that's cool. If its worth it to someone then they should go for it and be happy doing so. Everybody knows its nowhere near as bad as some of the garbage that's transpired of late in our hobby (Trashaxx shenanigans and Horizon's destruction of Tower Hobbies, etc.) I have a sneaking suspicion Associated looked sideways at what Kyosho was charging for the JJ Ultima and priced accordingly. Of course, being a replica of the '87 Worlds winner with many unique re-created parts just for that limited edition model means that its worth its price. A rehash of the RC10 Classic with some laser etching? Sorry, nah. I know Associated had to remake the molds yet again so there's expenditure up front to recoup, but they had to do that with the Classic too. This tactic is probably to minimize risk through the max-profit capitalism approach. AE could probably sell consistent numbers of these (much like Tamiya does with their mainstay rereleases that have been in production now longer than the originals were) every year at reasonable prices. Instead they went for the FOMO limited numbers max-profit approach right away and will sell every one made (which we'll likely see, still sealed in boxes, selling for $800+ on Fleabay in 2 years). But that's capitalism, and in the short term, the safer (and some would say smarter) move so we can't blame them. They're here to make money just like all the other manufacturers. Maybe we'll get lucky and we might see a more affordable non "Limited Edition" variant come out after the hoopla of this one has died down, but that's probably dreaming. More likely, there will be other RC10 variants brought out in limited numbers at high prices in the following years if this current pricing scheme works out for them. Of course the second a future rerelease crashes (like the Worlds car did), AE could quickly pull the plug too as we've seen in the past. You know, I've got 8 old RC10s that I've had for many years and could have made a killing selling as prices on them have shot up but I think I'll just tinker with them. I've also got something totally new, yet deliciously retro, called the BBX to put together and run without any guilt.
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I think probably everyone thinks their method is the "best method". If you already have some PS-1 and some X20A thinner, then for me it's PS-1 and a cocktail stick. I decant the paint by spraying it through a bendy straw into a small jar, which I then leave to stand until it's at room temp and the bubbles have gone. I then drip the paint from the cocktail stick and flood each letter. Surface-tension keeps the paint inside the borders of the letter (within reason). I sometimes move the cocktail stick around a bit to encourage the paint to flood a bit further. If I mess one up I just wipe it away with a cotton bud dipped in the thinner and do it again. A can of PS-1 will do a lot of tyres. Really, a lot.
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@Sir Crashalot Clearly an Egress and the article is April 1989…. Is this a prototype or just an early release Egress. Me find out. Release date 29th June 1989 according to Tamiyabase so this pre-dates Egress.
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Egress black vs Egress 58583 (2013)
TurboRSR replied to RyantheRed's topic in Re-Release Discussions
It's a GT Tuned with a different label. -
I don't do, collections, as such, but... I would like (feels like I should be sitting on Santa's knee...😂) -Avante -Bruiser - Porsche 959 - Re re Brat (actually wanted a Brat, and Santa brought a Frog, but hated the gearbox & driveshafts, hoping the re re fixes that..ish) (- none Tamiya , Raco JackRabbit..) Trouble is, none of the original cars above (Brat I don't class as, original, although the only one on the lost likely to happen), are in my price bracket. Having owned a fair few of my childhood wish list (Rough Rider, BigWig, Ninja , Maxxum ) they where rather underwhelming, having raced and got used to modern brushless buggies (the Ninja and the Maxxum I sold, as I didn't enjoy driving them, with the fear of breaking them, and not able to get parts, and the JackRabbit probably won't be as quick as my race buggies either..)
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Good idea, machine screws make maintenance so much less of a chore. Self-Tappers belong on "toy grade" RCs.
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My pre-order is in. I'll have to keep my fingers crossed for the next few weeks.
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Racing by post - Round 45 takes us to Anderstorp!
Andreas W replied to TurnipJF's topic in General discussions
Hehe. You can see the tennisball-fibres on the tyres. I ban imagine how much of it is coming up in the chassis. It's kind of surprising that these tyres hold up so good. I have no experience with such, but have always imagined that they would wear out fast and just written them off. Nice to read that you had another nice evening together with the lovely Golf. TurnipJF should give these tyres a go as well on a competent car. -
Oh ******. Price was good, went to pre-order, one or more items in your cart cannot be shipped to your location. Thanks Mr Associated.
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I’ve had two avante 2011 and both didn’t come standard with the centre ball diff but my black special did and upgraded steering! tamiya might have changed the spec of late but definitely my two didn’t have centre ball diff because I bought the hop-up set for them both
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Street price is $379 USD. I wanted to get a hold of a vintage RC10 so bad. Then the release......then the release price.
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I'm no collector but in the unlikely event it comes out I probably would buy a Falcon just because I had one as a kid and so it's my tamiya history, and it could line up alongside my Super Falcon. I am also tempted to own an Egress (and/or possibly Avante) and if I did I doubt it'd get much running, so I guess that's a collection thing.
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Good to know! In TT-02 if you use 3x10 screws, they will reach to the bottom of the hole. It is not bad, but sometimes I had feeling that I am not tightening elements together, but more try to tighten screw, despite elements were still loose. I remember that I read somewhere, that it is enough if you use that rule, to find how much thread should be in element: Screw Diameter x 1.5 Tamiya use M3 screws, so 4.5 mm of thread should be enough. Of course it depends on material, so if we are talking about rather soft plastic, not metal, bit more will be fine. I think around 6 mm of screw in element is totally fine.
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BBX inkl slipper Clutch with Brushless setup (my first Brushless, already have ESC/Motor but not a kit)
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Kitchenman joined the community
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That's what I did too in my recent builds. Only very rarely you need longer screws instead of the original ones.
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How much is the street price for one of these? I want to get one, but wary.
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Racing by post - Round 45 takes us to Anderstorp!
TurnipJF replied to TurnipJF's topic in General discussions
Hmm. I have a set of M-size foams that I keep for carpet tracks. I haven't tried them on tarmac. Maybe I should give them a go this round? -
The only incomplete set that I would really like to complete in the short to medium term is my selection of WR/WT/G6/GF chassis, which I consider to be one big family of trucks that is only lacking a GF-02 to round it off. Apart from wanting it to complete the set as it were, I also think it would make a fantastic base for a racing teapot in four-wheel steering configuration.
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Thank you again!
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Oh right, I was wondering how long it would last. I plan on driving my car, so maybe I'll hold off or find a cheap tire and test it out on that.
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I wouldn't mind a Falcon. I think the Dynahead is nice as well.
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Also used an edding with a fine tip (0.8mm) for lettering the tyres. However, the paint doesn't last long if you actually drive the car. It seems more like something for the gallery.
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Really good simple mod. Very interested to hear how you get on with this. Isn't 3° quite a lot? Love a drill press. Bit jealous of the Dr Evil lazer beam on yours.
