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  2. Jourduson started following Help with BBX motor/ESC choice
  3. lee82gx2
    that is a wicked colour scheme, is that dye? May I know how to do it in more details? Regarding your modification, any reason for not just dremeling the motor shaft? Do you have a picture of the gears minus the modified cover?
  4. skom25
    I really still do not understand, how it is possible that it is so badly damaged. It really looks like fake Asian videos, where they found rusty motorcycle in forest and try to restore it. These videos are quite funny, because they remove "rust" even from plastic elements Just to be clear: I do not suspect that you want to be Forum star. I just do not have idea, how someone spend so much money, then throw it somewhere ( salt water?) and leave like a garbage. I am not saint, because in anger I threw TT-02 on the ground few times, but at least I "recycled" around 80% of parts and cheaply can rebuild it.
  5. Grumpy pants
    After 1st round in the sonic cleaner - even I’m surprised at the colour of the water/solution now -
  6. Jourduson
    Hi you all! I'm new to tamiyaclub but have been following this discussion for some time, as I had some of the same issues. I ended up installing an Ezrun Max10 SCT sensorless with the Ezrun 3660SL G2 4600kV with 5mm pinion axle. I chucked the ESC cover and am fine with that. The 5mm pinion axle was too long by roughly 2mm, so I drilled a hole into the gearbox cover and cut a piece out of the ESC cover. Trimmed and filed it to a nice round plate 14mm diameter and glued it over the hole I had drilled. A perfect fit. Now, Nylon doesn't normally bond well with super glue, but the glass reenforcement fibers in the Nylon do. Solid as a rock. Was worried about the 5mm pinion gear, but as it turned out, Hobbywing had a perfect 5mm, 48 pitch, 18T gear supplied with the motor. I swapped the ball diff for a gear diff and used a higher viscosity than recommended and changed the 33T MA27 gear for a steel one plus a slipper clutch. Now I have a setup with a lot of low rev umph and a decent top speed of a masured 59km/h.
  7. wtcc5
    @Anthroxoid: To be honest, I cannot remember anymore. The rear pod carbon brace was mostly for the look and then for the toughness of the rear pod removing stress from the axle. The front suspension has rigid lower arms and moving upper arm with a kingpin at the end and a small spring below. Pretty much the standard until today. No hidden dampers (so far, be patient though ). This chassis is pretty sensitive to spring rates and oil weight. So setup-wise you can do a lot to get more steering or rear end. Drifting with F1 pan cars is on another level! Sounds like a great time! Unfortunately most people find these chassis to slow and difficult to drive, so there is not much response for F1 or LeMans classes. With the Corally driver so fast, I bought all the setup springs for this chassis from Tamiya and even invested in AE pan car front and side springs. I wanted the car to rotate better in the slower corners and be stable enough over the bumps. As tires play a major role for pan car handling, I used sponge tires A in front and A or B in the rear at that time. That made the car less understeer and more to my liking, but also nervous in some corners. So what does a 1:1 F1 have, that my F104 doesn't have? Yes, downforce is the right answer. The F60 wings do something, but not enough for an R/C car. I tried different configurations made of touring car rear wings, like that middle wing: In front I hid a wing behind the front wing: In the end I went for a rear wing extension and no middle wing: This was very much a different car on track now. Very planted, much more full throttle ratio. I liked that a lot! The club race came and I sweeped all three finals that day. Definitely the best memories!
  8. BuggyDad
    Yeah I think you were unlucky too, since folk say the Boomerang is tough. I mean it's probably not that unusual a failure across tamiya models but I'd worry about impacts more. So while Aluminium arms would probably solve this particular issue I'd rather have the plastic arms flex and ultimately break than a hard aluminium arm transfer impact force into the gearbox case.
  9. BuggyDad
    I'll be on the lookout for one!
  10. Kenny59 Kenny59 joined the community
  11. Rcl tmya Rcl tmya joined the community
  12. okieran okieran joined the community
  13. Samrat86 Samrat86 joined the community
  14. Badcrumble
    I'm also indebted to a TC member who posted a link to these body hole markers. I've scrolled back but haven't found the post! They came with a body reamer I didn't need but I also picked up an RX for my recently purchased M07 (or whichever car I get running next).
  15. JimBear
    The Lunch Box tyres (#9805213) perhaps, they don't have the spikes, so won't look worn in the same way. The Blackfoot ones would work too.
  16. MixMasterMax
    Thanks! That confirms my suspicion that it is more my driving. Starting off, it's hard to figure out if it is you or the car However, the jump I am having the most difficulty with is one where I'm just coming down a steep slope and then going right onto a small steep jump - I have also guessed that I may be having an issue where the back end bottoms out and the car gets a "kick" in the back. Anyway, I have now went out and splurged on the HiCap dampers and I'm stiffening up the front with 600cst front/500cst back following some of the threads on here - I'll see how it goes.
  17. JimBear
    T-rex patent trolling aside ... I am not sure if what the postman left by the door are the "real deal", these says Schumacher (part number U3940). But they do look nice and sturdy.
  18. Re-Bugged
    G’day 😉 It was my first ever Tamiya build from NIB so other than probably built poorly, they were just built as per manual with what was in the box. (Yellow Oil) I haven’t touched them since as I didn’t feel I needed to? Happy mulch relocating.
  19. Today
  20. Grumpy pants
    Morning K, Good stuff, love the action shots of your SB. My wife has plans on me moving that mulch today 😂 Can you remember what you did when you built your shocks?
  21. Grumpy pants
    Great shout the upgraded pistons, this time around I’ll use the kit stuff as I have it ready to go. The mods and upgrades will follow later 😉
  22. Re-Bugged
    Thanks to a TC member for the heads up on the aluminium M06 bits that RC Mart had in stock 👍🏻 (sorry can’t for the life of me remember who it was). Also took the opportunity to add 2 more Giulia wheels to the order to go with the 2 I already have.
  23. Grumpy pants
    @KEV THE REV what did you do with the shocks on your recent BB rebuild?
  24. Grumpy pants
    Thank you Dirt Tuned it will be, I’ll use the 15T pinion.
  25. Grumpy pants
    So much temptation 😂
  26. Grumpy pants
    Another nice RC for sale - hope it finds a new home soon in TC 👍
  27. Marchie
    That's just it, wasn't much of a whack at all. Unfortunately I'm in Australia - 2 weeks from everywhere... It's encouraging to see Tony has reasonable prices at least.
  28. Grumpy pants
    Glad you got this sorted Kev, I did check my tub of RC plastics for you, but there was nothing in there that would have helped.
  29. GermanTA03Guy
    Nice one. Thats a point i often have to solve on a build...
  30. Grumpy pants
    How cool is that!
  31. Twinfan
    I think you were probably unlucky, it must have been some whack. Tony's Tamiya Parts do quick dispatch. If you order today (and you're in the UK) they'll probably get it in the post today and you might have it for the weekend depending on the post in your area: https://ttpmodels.com/products/tamiya-boomerang-bigwig-hot-shot-ii-2-sabre-9115022-19115022-0115046-r-parts?_pos=1&_sid=8b6cf5467&_ss=r
  32. Mad Ax
    Good point. I do have some wheel weights stuck in low down in the rear of the chassis too. Some of the other guys were running medium springs up front, where I was running hard, so that may be part of my problem. I forgot to bring my spring sets so I couldn't swap over to test it out. Yes, standard diff with Blu-Tac installed. There's so much in there now that it doesn't change so much between runs, but still needs a repack from time to time. Rules for M03 state "Tamiya gearing with unlocked differential" - that means there must be some diff action after the race (I once overdid the Blu-Tac and it got disqualified) - if the TB04 gear diff has the same gearing then that may be an option. However for M05, some aftermarket diffs are allowed. The M03 is now feeling so tired and sloppy that I'll either have to give it a full rebuild with new arms and uprights, along with some legal mods I've been putting off for years, or just go with the M05. However my M05 is 99% stock, and there's a lot more permitted hop-ups for the M05 to get it to a similar spec as the other A-final M05s. If I stick M03 I'll eventually be outclassed by the M05s, if I upgrade the M05 I've got a fair bit of money to spend up front and a lot of tuning and setup to do. Sadly I can't make practice day for at least the next two rounds, so I'll be doing my M05 setup during quali runs and hoping I don't fall too far behind during the day...
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