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  3. If you lock the front diff should help a lot. I'm doing speed-runs and moving to one side while accelerating with over powered cars is always an issue.
  4. Pull issue might be due to wheel alignment? I notice mismatched wear particularly on your rear tyres. Another thing to check is that it isn't the steering servo itself steering when you punch the throttle. Weak BECs, batteries and/or cheap servos are known to cause problems when accelerating hard due to electrical noise from the motor and/or voltage drop at the battery. This is easy to test - hold the car in the air and punch the throttle, check that the steering servo doesn't jerk to one side. Sometimes a "glitch buster" capacitor connected to the receiver can help, but hardly ever fully cures the problem in my experience. Gears should be 0.6 mod unless the previous owner has fitted a 48dp spur. If the spur is the standard 0.6 mod one, excessive noise might be caused by the mesh being adjusted too tight, or just worn out teeth. Otherwise, 24t and 35t 48dp pinions are about the same physical sizes as the 21t and 31t 0.6 mod pinions you currently have. Just about any 48dp anodised aluminium pinion will do the job, they are fairly standardised. Make sure it has a 3.175mm (1/8") hole for the motor shaft, as 48dp pinions for 5mm shafts exist as well.
  5. Ok so I had a tinker last night. stripped the rear diffs and checked all was in order, no issues there. i swapped the wiring on the receiver and now if I press the left/right it goes flat out forwards and backwards! Up/down goes left/right! when I return them to normal positions (the wires) it still acts unusually and won’t run properly . . . This has got me totally bamboozled 🤔
  6. Thanks to all the advice on this forum, I finally got an XV-01. As promised by all the folks here, the XV-01 was: -- lots of fun -- different -- shockingly durable I tend to overpower my RCs, so as soon as I got the chassis (used, built up by someone else, in somewhat rough shape), I dropped in a 4-pole Castle motor (3800 kv), a Hobbywing Max10 SCT ESC, and 3s lipo, and got to work. I also went from the included 21t pinion to a 31t pinion (rather sizable increase in top speed - I'd say about 40 mph at this point although I don't the GPS unit handy). It is a small and light chassis (well, not compared to touring cars) so the 1800 and 2200 mah lips I had lying around last at least 10-15 min each (under intense conditions). I have larger packs but so far have not needed anything more. So far, all of my driving has been on pavement (maybe 5-10 packs) and the tires are just about worn down. I'll get some more sets, and perhaps even experiment with foams for dedicated on-roading. Does anyone use foams on these chassis just for on-road? It is a lot of fun to drive, handles pretty sharply, but I'm having trouble with a "pull" to the left when I give it full throttle (at any speed). If I roll onto the throttle, it works fine, but if I'm aggressive, it will pull left. I don't quite know what might be out of alignment because it seems to track just fine when I'm running up and down the street and NOT slamming onto the throttle. The motor and the ESC can go to 4s, so that's probably going to have to happen very shortly... ideally with the GPS attached. Anyone know if there is a 48p pinion I can buy for this? I think it came with a mod 6 pinion (not quite compatible - makes a lot of gear noise). Here are some pics:
  7. You can easily maka a Black edition by using the soon to be released clear body, two set of Tamiya Man Race truck black rear rims and MCI racing decals. Im planning doing the same thing but with Grave Digger decals... By the way I think that the SW01 is one of Tamiyas most versatile chassis with a lot of potential. It is a compact 4x4 gearbox wich could be used in a lot of trucks with different suspension setting. It could de the saint grail to pover up Bruder 6x4 tractor trucks or you could easily combine two SW01s and make a 8x8 truck.
  8. I honestly hope they make a Black Edition Lunchbox or at least the appropriate decals for it. Also a Monster Beetle for this chassis. The "new" Monster Beetle Trail being released is actually the Monster Beetle QD which I always thought had a hideous front-end and doesn't do the original Monster Beetle any justice.
  9. In my TRF201 i simply took thr fan off the 10BL120 ESC and it was fine. For a 13.5 motor i bought a Team Associated B4 72t spur (direct replacement for the tamiya spur) and ran a 27t pinion for gearing around 7FDR. It was perfect.
  10. Been playing a lot with CC-01 since 2000. Heard CC-02 will come and already see what it looks like. I still prefer CC-01 'cause it's an IFS (Independent Front Suspension) SUV, resembling almost all modern chassis right now. This is a project I did awhile ago (around 2012). I still have some documentation so hope to share with everyone here. Basically, here are some heavy modification I've made : 1. Resize physical dimension : heighten, lengthen, widen 2. Gear mod reduction 3. Servo mod. position. 4. Lightning installation etc. Because this project was made on 2012, I'm not sure the components I list here, will still be available or not. If not, you can find some alternatives out there, or you can custom-fit fi you have proper tools. The tools I used mostly from Proxxon for drilliing and cutting (no milling) I will keep updating the page with info, but first I will post some pics Video (sorry, a bit blurry) Specification : Chassis : Tamiya CC-01 (58324 Volkswagen Race Touareg) Body : Proline Descender (Suzuki Vitara / Escudo / Sidekick) Color : Tamiya Camel Yellow Additional parts : 3Racing, Yeah Racing, Axial, RC4WD Grafx / decals : offroad 4x4 by Yandra Wheels : 1.9 beadlock Mopar-style by Nopi (Nop The Builder) Tire : RC4WD 1.9 Rox Lok Shaft : Axial (dual) Links : 3Racing Shock : Yeah Racing Shackle : RC4WD Wheel Hex : Junfac Knuckle : GPM Racing Purpose : Extreme Adventure Cross Country - Medium Crawler A. Heightened For this purpose, there are 3 things I did : 1. Using high clearance knuckle There are 2 product from 3Racing, each only need 1 pair (left and right), as follows : a. For front part : 3Racing High Clearance Knuckle For CR-01 (CR01-26/LB) b. For rear part : 3Racing High Clearance Knuckle For AX10 Scorpion (AX10-32/GR) Both products will give additional height 15mm significantly for this rig to overcome any obstacles. Also widened the left to right tire distance 2. Using large diameter wheels and tires I'm using RC4WD 1.9 Rox Lok tires for this rig. One of tallest tires for 1.9 3. Arm and shock damper setting and replacement. Replace the stock dampers with longer ones. It will change the height of the chassis. For the front, I used 3Racing alum long damper for 1/8 buggy front For the rear, just used the longer shock damper based on the length of the rear axle link that will be used. Heightened Front Rear B. Widened To widen the chasis, beside using high clearance knuckle, I did the following : 1. For front Longer suspension arm replacement.. I used Tamiya 53467 TL01/FF02 Long span suspension arm, but only the rear arm. This modification will effect other parts and will be described in built process 2. For rear using wheel widener. No modification necessary, just replace standard hex wheels with wider ones Widened Front Rear C. Lengthened The purpose for this, is to get more articulation and better track coverage. By lengthening the wheelbase, this rig will be more flexible on certain degree. This lengthened purpose was done on the rear side.The front side, not much to do because of this CC01 chassis doesn't use axle. For this purpose, I did the following : 1. Longer linkage replacement. Beside longer, the linkage is also bended a bit to give more clearance 2. Changing linkage mounting on chassis I drilled new holes according to the intended wheelbase I want. 3. Longer propeller shaft because of longer linkage I used double shaft to accommodate this with pilot hub. Later I will show in the built process Lengthened
  11. Thanks Ann3x for the great work !! My Monster Racer diff starts slipping again. And I wonder if there has been an update/info on the driveshaft length or longer outdrives so we could use it on the monster racer too. Many thanks Dave
  12. There was a brown sport tuned as well, think this was before they were black?
  13. This final drive ratio (FDR) chart from a Hobbywing 3650 motor datasheet should be a good starting point. An FDR of 7.0:1 means that 7 rotations of the motor results in 1 rotation of the wheels. The formula to calculate FDR for a TRF201 is: FDR = (spur_teeth/pinion_teeth)*2.6 So for example a 25t pinion and the standard 79t spur gear would get you FDR = (79/25)*2.6 = 8.22, which is safe for motors down to 10.5turns in a buggy, but might have a lower than desirable top speed for motors >13.5turns. The FDR suggestions above are based on circuit racing, so if you run on smooth surfaces (on-road) at high speed you can probably afford to run a lower FDR, and if you run on slower rough terrain like grass you might need to go to a higher FDR. If in doubt, start with a higher FDR and see how hot the motor gets. If the motor is running too hot (can't hold your finger on the can for more than a few seconds), you need to go to a higher FDR - a pinion with fewer teeth, or spur with more teeth. If the motor is running cool, you can afford to go to a lower FDR (more pinion teeth or spur with fewer teeth) which will achieve a higher top speed, but slower acceleration. There may be a limit to how small or large of a pinion and/or spur gear will physically fit in the car, so if you're making a big alteration to FDR you may need to change both gears to come up with a combination that physically fits.
  14. That would be make it a re re re. I wouldn't mind. I sold my Rere and wish I hadn't!
  15. Man I really hope so, I always wanted an Optima Mid, but as a young teenager with limmited funds I had to wait until the Top Force was $99 before i could afford a modern buggy.
  16. You might also want to check out Radiolink RC4GS TX/RX. I chose this over FlySky. Works great, feels great and very nice features for its price. The RX even came with a Gyro.
  17. thanks for the info, much appreciated.
  18. Ah ok, brushless. Interesting RoT. So that 6A current is only measured between battery & ESC. Can't stick meter between motor & ESC, no idea what you'll get - probably Smoke!
  19. Cut & shut, chop 15mm out the middle? Or buy a DIB 275 or find a used std DRB/DIB etc and rebuild that onto 275 chassis plates, sometimes can work out cheaper depending on your luck. Yok shells are pretty wide ~200mm too, they can take big offset wheels to fill the arches. But the extra track width might affect handling/tuning when used for grip running.
  20. 6A is for brushless 540 motors. Most brushless 540 motors will be set for 2-4A no load current out of the box and it only requires a handful of degrees adjustment to get them up to 6A. If you adjust the timing to achieve minimum current draw, you've adjusted the motor to 0degrees timing, which is not where the motor produces peak output power. 6A no load is a rule of thumb that generally corresponds to peak output power (give or take 5-10%) but definitely not peak efficiency. A good 21.5t motor at moderate timing produces about 120W of mechanical power at about 50-60% efficiency (80-120W as heat) at half it's max rpm, or about 80W of power at 75-80% efficiency (20-25W as heat) near three quarters of it's max rpm. At 0rpm it produces no mechanical power, uses hundreds of watts of power and has 0% efficiency. That's why a motor runs HOT when you put long gearing in the car, because it spends more time at lower rpm where it has poorer efficiency. Increasing the timing also increases the Kv of the motor, which has the same effect as longer gearing, therefore it will run hotter. As long as your no load current isn't ridiculous (like >15A), and you readjust your gearing to compensate for a change in Kv, the reduction in efficiency of the motor should be manageable. Adding no load current just adds a static amount of heat output at every rpm. If you're already chucking away an average of ~50W as heat at 0deg timing, it's not a big deal to make that ~70-80W if it gives you 20%+ extra power on track. If all you care for is reducing temps, just set to 0 deg.
  21. Do it!!! Tamiya should've designed the A3 with multiple positions in order to facilitate adjusting the slipper gear and idler gear mesh due to production variance. Mine must been off enough to cause the chip tooth sound. With the 1150 bearing the mesh is tighter and now it runs perfectly smooth while still spinning freely.
  22. Yesterday
  23. Here's an interesting notion: what about 1.55" scaler tires? They should stretch enough to fit on the 40mm/1.6" Optima wheels. They'll need to be glued on, and they might be a little soft and squirmy in hard turns, but they should last a good long while, and because of the soft rubber, they'll have good grip. Something like these: https://www.rpphobby.com/category_s/362.htm Similarly, the 1.9" scaler tires (of which there are probably a hundred choices) should stretch a tiny bit to fit Turbo Optima wheels, but they may look too tall on there, and make it look too monster-y. Or... you mentioned oval blocks; they should fit right on to re-re Turbo Optima wheels.
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