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  2. @ThunderDragonCy thanks for the tips for tue M03 axles I will look it up ! As for tires I am using cheap Aliexpress tires, the rubber is soft enough but not slow rebound/resin style of rubber. To get a good balance I am using a Tamiya medium closed cell insert in the front while I run the very soft open cell foam that was provided with the tires. I can touch the rim while pressing on my back tires, it would be an effort to do the same at the front. I am actually somewhat worried by getting race tires as they are already glued on and I am not sure that compound alone would be enough to keep the balance. I read your topic with the TA06 which I found interesting, maybe the fact that I am running an fully open diff helps too ? Keep in mind that I am running a 15t brushed too which is not massively powerful I guess. I also read a lot of pages around that topic on another forum where most of the guys were saying it is impossible to make a 1/10th rwd and arguing about putting front brake of reverse one way. One thing is true in all this, braking need to be very gentle but my track is very open so I don't really need to brake hard or accelerate hard it is more about throttle modulation.
  3. Today
  4. Pulled the chassis apart between paint coats. It is all looking very good as it's full bearings and again, looks like little or no use. I'll leave it bits until my hop ups arrive as there is a high speed gearset to go in and i need to try and lock up the front diff somehow. I have an idea but never tried it before so we will see. Sorted the plan on shocks too. Going to transfer the 55mm CVAs off the TA06 which have red orings and TRF pistons. Ordered some Yeah Racing shocks for the TA06. I have both tamiya spring sets to play with so hopefully handling won't be a problem to sort.
  5. @Balgaroth I tried making my TA06 RWD and found it an impossible handful. Even now in 4wd its very on the nose, but you are right, tyres are key. The problem with touring cars is that it's hard or impossible to get good quality wide rear tyres to even up the grip. My 2wd buggies handle great, but the tyre is probably twice the width on the rear! Your solution of a grippier compound rear is probably the best bet, but i haven't wanted to buy a whole other set of harder compound racing slicks for my TA06. Rgarding front axles, look out for the M03 rear axles. They have flat faces and there is a lightweight aluminium version as well i think.
  6. Hi guys . I'm looking for a 27mhz Taiyo Tubo Hopper buggy handset , a front wheel and tyre , 4 spotlights , and a front bumper ,used is fine .See pics UK only . Also looking for any other spares for this buggy if you have any , and also looking for a 9.6v Tyco Bandit - good or bad w.h.y .
  7. @Kevin_Mc Yes I removed the propshaft, emptied the front GB and removed the driveshafts. Nothing irreversible as I wasn't sure what would happen. The last thing I'd like to do it so cut the driveshaft cups on the front hubs to save some rotational weight on the front wheels but that would make those axles completely useless if I wanted to reverse the process, tho that's probably not gonna happen. For the scale I am using the old trick of kitchen scale and a book of equivalent height. It is not perfectly accurate but considering I am playing with a 15 years old cracked TL01 chassis I consider it good enough 😂 I have a very limited experience on a track and limited skills so I learn as I modify the car too. It is probably not fast by any standards but I have fun with it and I can manage several laps without crashing and some flow so it's not that bad I guess. First try I had with the car in rwd mode was with cooked original tires, friction shocks on a Sport Tuned can and you couldn't drive it without spinning it, tires makes for a good 6/70% of the viability of the project. Even simply putting the Aliexpress tires at the back and keeping the front with the old ones made night and day, I read many threads with people saying you can't make a rwd 1/10th and I think it is only because they get the tire setup wrong. In biking it is the same, if your rubber is rubbish and/or you run bad pressure you will never go fast even with the best setup and gear in the world.
  8. go stake out a toyshop Schleich makes some nice animal figurines, they're about 1/12. Once found some offbrand dog toys (branded PAL which is a local dogfood) that are nicer 1/8-1/9th... looks better a bit oversized that undersized imho. They're earmarked for riding in Mounty tray
  9. ok built mine far enough that now i've got a battery cavity to measure from :) Yep 2x 18650 fits in there perfectly, they sit in the bulge. Length of compartment at first notch is perfect for naked cells +wrapping. Second notch gives 6mm extra length... maybe i'll try getting some "protected" cells to fit within that. (18650s can be bought with "protection", there's an extra circuitboard stuck onto the end to prevent overdischarging etc... afaik)
  10. I’ve always fancied trying to make a decent-handling rwd TL01 - i take it you’ve built it up without the front gearbox and without the prop shaft as that’s more of a take-off point rather than integral like a TT01? That’s an impressive side-to-side balance, the outboard ESC has made all the difference i reckon. What scales are you using?
  11. This is exactly my experience of them - I cant stand them, if they are not popping off then the spanner rounds off. There was a thread on this a couple of months ago. It seems the trick is to apply a coating of the grease onto each of the threads before screwing them into the ends.
  12. Have a look at this: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/90839-cup-racer-20-or-the-ultimate-tt01dr-type-e-build/
  13. I don't mind the masking so much, but this this trans blue paint is complete mess. Hoping the stickers cover most of it.
  14. Hmmm... Some ridiculously cheap prices there, pictures are grabbed from ebay. I searched for Tamiya TRF 201 & one of the white wheels pictures is from Tonys Tamiya ebay shop, others have the sellers watermark on them! Interesting stuff.
  15. Upgraded to aluminium steering arms and adjustable turnbuckles on the TT01E. They’re pretty stiff though, so I’m not sure exactly how ‘adjustable’ they are going to be - turning the adjustable nut seems to just unclip the arms, rather than make any adjustment...
  16. So I finally got my hands on a scale to see where my chassis balance is at. And it is a rather good surprise. No battery, with shell: Front: 43% Back: 57% Left: 49% Right: 51% Battery and shell: Front: 45% Back: 55% Left: 50% Right: 50% These results are with the low profile servo, the ESC outside the tub and the lipo alarm and battery cable on the left. For the sake of experimenting I tried to put the lipo alarm and battery cable on the other side and it gave me a 47/53. Conclusion: - I was thinking of playing with the dremel to tuck in the ESC better but I won't touch it since I have a good left/right balance as is. - I was considering buying some shorty in the hope to help reduce the weight up front (TL01 battery placement is somewhat at the front) but at best I will modify the balance by maybe 1% which is not worth it considering I would have to dremel quite a bit my chassis. So I will most likely buy another Bashing 4000 stick to get a bit more play time unless I find a better option but 5000mAh sticks don't seem to exist. - I think I have done all that was possible in terms of none specific upgrades to my RWD TL01, I will swap front and rear shocks as they have very slightly different settings to experiment and see if it helps with bit and corner behaviour. After that I will finish off these tires and reflect on what should happen next other than new tires. GF01 LA kit ? Speed Tuned gears ? Rear Diff ? Turnbuckle set ? Any suggestions ?
  17. The quicrun 13.5t motor+esc combo is hard to beat for the price, I'd recommend that. TT02B needs at a minimum the metal differentials from a DF02 to be reliable as a basher, even with the stock brushed motor. A TT02B and Arrma Typhon are opposite ends of the spectrum for buggies. The TT02B being one of the most fragile and the Typhon being one of the toughest. If you want a TT02B to handle big power (<10.5t) and larger wheels than standard, expect to upgrade almost everything in the drivetrain.
  18. What Blissard said is absolutely correct, just raise up the transmission a bit and you'll get a lot more travel. Still nothing like a modern 4-link crawler, but it's nice to have that little bit of extra room.
  19. For all of my older Tamiyas I just use the mini 2-3S lipos. They fit in everything and with up to 3000mah have plenty of run time. I'd rather not permanently modify original battery boxes for full size Lipos when there's a very easy & cheap solution. As far as some being annoying to access no matter what size battery you're using I totally agree with that. I actually dont mind the bottom loaders so you can leave the body completely in tact when removing/replacing.
  20. Thank you both looked over you're guys options and the whole thread and they seem better for sure. Thanks again for helping make my transition into this hobby alot easier and more pleasant. I managed to get a yeah racing full aluminum kit for 140$. so just need some gear upgrades soon and the car should be solid for awhile. I love the tt02's versatility I have the NBR sti, and the Monte carlo sti kits, might get the BRZ kit later on for a drifter aswell. Are the TT02B's worth it for a buggy? was thinking of just getting another arrma typhoon instead as my buggy .
  21. Sold the M06 chassis today. It was a nice surprise to sell so quickly since I had thought I'd probably end up with it gathering dust until I eventually figured out something to do with it. I've also rebuilt my front XV01 diff using the guide on TheRCRacer: https://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/how-to-build-perfect-tamiya-gear-diff.html I decided to leave the rear diff as it is since it hasn't leaked (yet). More XV01 bits are on their way before I rebuild the chassis.
  22. Oh man!!! Here I am again! DS parts being made and I have no DS!
  23. If it’s a new tt02 it comes with a motor and speed controller capable of brushed and brushless motors. I would stick with that and learn to build and upgrade later. With the included tble02s speed controller you can upgrade to a 13.5 brushless motor.
  24. Argh I hate masking for paint jobs, especially if the stickers are not going to cover the join..
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