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  2. Hi coukd you tell me your best price shipped within the uk many regards cath
  3. bjorklo

    TT-02B MS WEE

    Took the car out for it's first spinn. Not to rough driving just testing out in the street
  4. bjorklo

    TT-02B MS WEE

    Thanks. I too love the airbrushing, just wished I had the skills to do it myself.
  5. Very clean and good looking car. Love the airbrushing.
  6. they are like hens teeth, even the HPI ones can be hard to get. Well at least from what I have seen in Australia anyway. I have seen these recently though https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Controlfreax-BMW-E30-Body-Shell-tamiya-190mm-tt01-tt02-btcc-/174030784211?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 but unsure of quality, stickers look a little home made and the listing says 3D print parts. I think the seller is from the UK, good luck
  7. Today
  8. Hi All, Finally found an XV-01 to my liking on (Pro chassis, good condition) with a moderate Castle brushless system included. From the pics, it has various aluminum parts (motor mount, shocks, etc) which I assume come with the Pro kit. What should I expect in terms of driving? I am curious... (I'll find out soon enough I suppose). I am getting this vehicle as my "on-road basher". I have Teknos for big truly insane big air, a Lunchbox for the beach, a Rustler for the backyard. The XV-01 will be for the streets (and the drive way, and the local parking lots). I don't have very much smooth pavement (most of what's nearby is dirty or rough or both) so I thought the XV would be a good compromise - not as sensitive and low-slung as true on-road cars but a bit more fun on pavement than my off-roaders. What parts should I think about buying either as spares or hop-ups? I see recommendations for the slipper, so maybe I'll get that, although to be honest I've gotten very comfortable using the "torque control" setting on my Castle ESCs such that my slippers do less and less work these days... the torque control is truly a current limiter (unlike punch control) and as far as I can tell, when set properly, it eliminates 90% of the need for a slipper (if not more - maybe 100%). So I might be able to get by for a while without needing the slipper. What about long dampers? I want *some* ability to handle bumps and maybe small jumps without bottoming out - do folks like the long damper spec? Thanks! All the advice on this board is what turned me on to the XV-01.
  9. To expand a bit on what waterbok already said; other pinion than the 10t stock will not fit. The other gear you could theoretically install is 18t Hornet/Grasshopper pinion. But that would be a bad idea. That 18t pinion was made for much smaller + lighter 77mm tires (not for 105mm Lunchbox tires). When Tamiya made Lunchbox big and heavy, it had to reduce the gear ratio. That's why there is a collar between motor and the gearbox. 10t is smaller, so it wouldn't even touch the spur gear. To close that gap, there is the collar (red circle below). Also that's why the pinion is so tall. Tamiya went through a lot of trouble to make the pinion small. If you take off the collar and installed the 18t Hornet pinion, I'm afraid you'd lose the benefit you get from Sport Tuned. It will feel like it would take forever to reach the top speed. Going from 10t to 18t? That is asking the motor to do 180% of the work. It will run much hotter as a result. Heat will kill the magnets in the motor, making it weaker and weaker every time. (People install heat-sinks on their motors to cool it down, even when the motor doesn't even get that hot) The other option is to use a custom motor mounting kit. That will allow other gears, probably anything between 11 and 18t. But even if I had a custom motor mount, I'd still use the 10t pinion. If I replaced the plastic shell with a very light lexan body? Then I might use 12t or 13t, because now it is like 30% lighter. Still not as much as Hornet/Grasshopper. So... long story short, I would stick with the stock pinion. If you forced anything other than 10t pinion (or 18t after taking the collar off), it will either not mesh at all, or chew up the gears. Shocks are a good idea. (If you want, double wishbone suspension for the front is also a good idea)
  10. It needs to be bigger... With more jumps... Terry
  11. If I was your neighbor, I'd probably skip work so often and go to your backyard and run my kits. But if I was your neighbor and I wasn't into RC, I'd still probably skip work, watch you guys run your kits and convince myself that I need to get a kit or two. Seriously, good job!!!
  12. I have two basic 2-channel 2.4 ghz pistol-grip radios (TX and RX) that came out of RTRs that I never use. Might as well see if someone else can put them to use? One Losi-branded Spektrum, and one no-name (probably Flysky?). Both work great, and have servo-reversing and steering rate adjustments, but nothing else. And while I'm at it, I can't stand the new TBLE-02 speed controls from Tamiya. I'll never bother with brushless again, and I can't stand having that extra motor wire flopping around. I have 3, all work fine. We'll say $75 shipped (in USA) or best offer for everything. I'll check into international shipping costs for anyone that asks. Or if you want only one or two things, PM me and make an offer. If I can end up with a little paypal slush fund for parts, I'll be happy.
  13. It may very well be a defect in the gears themselves. Any slight variation in the tolerances could cause an issue. When the RC10 worlds edition came out it had a problem with the top shaft being slightly off causing the transmission to have rough spots when rotating. Associated's answer was to run the gears in. Not sure if this will work with the SA transmission, the clicking noise almost sounds like it could be skipping teeth.
  14. I have had a couple of attempts at fixing it, my feeling is it is in the geared diif housing, my plan is swap my vintage diif gear in and see how it goes. IT IS VERY FRUSTRATING ,I have 2 vintage Super Astutes and one Astute, I bought the re re to run , it hasnt seen a full pack through it yet
  15. I recently placed some orders for the various parts I needed. Shocks, printed parts and tires (the later have arrived). I need five tires because I want the spare to match the rest of the rims. Luckily this Jeep already had a mount for a spare. Someone pointed out that Jurassic Park Jeeps don't use BFG mud terrain tires, but all-terrain ones. Does anyone happen to know a good way to put white lettering on small tires? If not, oh well.
  16. Yesterday
  17. That's up to you. Adding bearings is a good starting point. If you go with LiPo, spend $3 and get yourself a Lipo fireproof bag. It doesn't happen often, but it could catch fire. Modern chargers are kinder on the batteries. Most are Lipo, LiFe, Li-ion, NiMH, NiCd capable too. (Still, fireproof bag is a good idea) "iMax B6" is popular, but the charger Turnip linked has 7A. That would charge faster than iMax B6 with an internal power supply of 5A. <Flashing lights> You could reset the ESC. You can follow the instruction below. Most ESCs do it automatically: you plug it, pull and push. Voila, you are done. But not TEU-101BK. It asks you to actively push the button long at neutral, once at full throttle and one last time at full reverse. https://www.tamiyausa.com/media/files/45029ml-955-8787.pdf At least, it's not that hard. If you get bored with Sport Tuned, all 3 options below should give you similar speeds. [Option 1] As mentioned, Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 is like the standard ESC for brushed motors. You can get one for about $20. It will allow you to use faster motors like Super Stock BZ, TZ, RZ. I don't think there is big difference between different Zs, but I don't own any to compare. Super Stock motors can be found for about $45, which is just as expensive as brushless motors. Super Stock are good motors, but they are brushed motors. 5-10 hours later, you have to replace brushes. Less efficient in terms of power consumption. [Option 2] There are sensorless brushless combos. I would recommend at least 60A ESC. 40A won't do you any good. 60A and about 3000-3300kv would give you a step up from Sport Tuned. Close to Super Stock. Get one with 3650 sized motor. Smaller motors don't have the torque, bigger 3660 motors can set smaller 40A ESCs on fire in a second, even 60A (also 3660 may not fit your pinion gears). The cheap combos should cost you about $45. So this would be cheaper than Super Stock + Quicrun 1060. Definitely more efficient and just as powerful, but these are relatively cheaply made. Robust and waterproof, but ESC fan is loud and there could be cogging issues at low speed. [Option 3] Sensored brushless motors. Sensored motors have ".5t" at the end. Like 15.5t, 13.5t, 10.5t, 8.5t. They are turns, only sensored motors have .5t turns. Tamiya TBLE02S ESC can handle 17.5t, 15.5t and 13.5t. But 17.5t is similar to the silver can. TBLE02S ESC can be found for about $25. But 13.5t is the limit (about $40). It cannot run 10.5t, 8.5t which are much faster. But TBLE02S with 13.5t motor is a popular combination. I like it because it doesn't come with a loud fan (unlike option #2). It should be close to 3000kv, and similar to Super Stock. If you want to leave an option for even stronger motor than 13.5t, you should spend $40 and get Quicrun 10BL120 ESC, instead of Tamiya TBLE02S. If you get that you can even run a hot motor like 8.5t (5000kv. It can give you about 200% RPM of Sport Tuned -- that's just too fast for myself, which is why I stick with 13.5t). All this is for later. Try resetting your ESC. If you want more speed, sky is the limit.
  18. I'm going to echo what @WillyChang said; without some sort of load your numbers will be meaningless. I'd maybe give this a try since it's only $23 and will log the peak amperage while under load: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBDGM4J/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07LBDGM4J It has an inductive sensor, so you don't even need to contact the wires for an accurate reading.
  19. Ran a whole pack through my RS200 just hooning about in the street outside my house. Absolutely loving this now i have sorted the handling and got the brushless motor in it.
  20. Receiver connections are often to blame. With the openings for the plugs and crystal pointing upwards, dust and debris can enter and settle in the casing. Unplugging everything, unclipping and opening the receiver casing, giving the PCB a good cleaning and then putting it all back together again is not a bad idea. Also check that the crystals in your receiver and transmitter are plugged in securely, and that the "legs" are not loose in the crystals casing.
  21. Thanks @TurnipJF - wonder why this radio issue has suddenly appeared?!
  22. Stock pinion is ok for the sports tuned.
  23. Chances are that it is a radio issue rather than an ESC issue as the TEU-101BK is pretty reliable, but if you do need to replace it, the Quicrun 1060 is the current ESC of choice for brushed motors.
  24. I have a Lunchbox that is stock except for a Sport Tuned 540-I do plan to put on CVA shocks all around....... What is the recommended pinion size (number of teeth) for that motor in that chassis? Thanks for all replies.
  25. So based on the advice from the forum, I think the first thing I’ll try is to buy a couple of new batteries and a lipo charger. Thankfully parts for this car are pretty cheap! It now looks as though another problem has appeared - the ESC is flashing constantly and not responding to anything that I do. So I may just buy a new ESC while I’m at it. Would it be best to buy the same exact model, or is there a better version? @Juggular is that seriously all I need to replace all of the bearings in my car? Just $2 worth of bearings?? That’s awesome! Thanks again, this is the best forum!
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