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  2. Which hex tools did you buy? I have arrowmax purple and haven't had any problems. I have stripped a few but either know how i did it (not paying attention with a cordless driver) or there was a lot of use (on the race cars, some screws come out every meet which is unusual for rc cars). I have only ever had one which was so bad i had to cut a slot in it and that was absent-minded use of a cordless screwdriver. Mine are either kit screws, titanium or my generic uncoated 10.9 or 12.9 steel. I avoid stainless and titanium generic screws as its hard to know what you are getting. I know what you mean about the rust though, its not pretty
  3. Yes with jis Tamiya screw driver set I've never had an issue, ever!
  4. No pictures for this update. Not yet anyway. Major problem that I should have seen coming and don't know why I didn't sooner! As shown previously I got 2x sets of GPM 39mm cvds. The front set fit perfectly. I came to fit the rears last night and guess what.... They are too short. Lol. It appears that the rear arms and hubs are sitting much wider than the fronts. Now I don't know if that is down to the rear uprights or not. The front arms are sitting with TA04 hub carriers and hubs whereas the rear is using the TL01/M03 hop up uprights. I don't mind the rear sitting a bit wider due to the body I want to sit on it but I will need to get the perfect offset wheels so they sit flush with the body. My question is.... do I look for longer cvds or look to change the up rights?
  5. Consider the pudding over-egged after all... Jx
  6. My old RC10 was fun until it broke, and it broke a lot. It's just not suited to bashing. Tamiya parts are plentiful and for the most part cheap. Keep the RC10 for the nostalgia, but buy a bashable tamiya for some addictive fun is my opinion.
  7. Do you use Philips or JIS screw drivers?
  8. I have a lot of trouble with screws. A LOT. It doesn't matter whether it is grade 12.9 or whatever, I tend to strip them. I bought good hex tools, which helps, but I still strip some. I noticed that uncoated high grade steel screws are the best, but they rust. Also have to use some lubricant. I have used titanium screws before once in a TT02 build 3 years ago. I took that car apart last week and I noticed that 90%+ of the screws looked brand new and were re-usable. That car had taken quite a beating. It got me thinking about titanium again. I could only find titanium grade 2 screws, which are about half as strong as grade 12.9 steel bolts, but they should be fine. But the real kicker now is that I found out that you can buy these screws in torx varieties, which should help prevent stripping. I have ordered enough screws for three XV-01's. A Yeah Racing titanium kit, and I counted the screws needed and ordered 2 car's worth of torx screws. Does anyone have any experience with them? I think a main problem I had with the grade 12.9 bolts I bought was the coatings on them. These were the weak point and if the coating rubbed off in the hex hole, then the screw was toast. It doesn't matter how strong the steel is if the coating is weak. I have good luck with flat black steel hex screws, but they tend to rust.
  9. Quailane

    TT02 Type-S

    I'm sorry I never posted anything about this car afterwards. A couple of weeks later I took it to a local track. It was a new car set up for racing, the track is pretty high-speed, and I'm a novice driver. I'm also used to using LiFe batteries and not Lipo! I also forgot to glue the tires to the wheels. I wrecked the car pretty badly. The chassis was fine, nothing that I couldn't fix at the track with some time and some superglue, but the body was rashed up pretty badly. After draining the battery with tons of lap time, I really didn't like the feel of the car and I wasn't sure what to do to it to improve the setup. Too many options for someone like me. I boxed up the car and didn't touch it for two years. I pulled it out of storage and I'm thinking about what to do with it. I'm not sure if I should use it again, build something else using some of the parts, or just sell the chassis as-is. I'll post some pictures tonight.
  10. Today
  11. Oh, that reminds me of a video... a Japanese guy also. He put the stickers on the inside. He basically put the sticker on the side where there is no adhesive. He did use something. But all I remember was "that can't be good." But it did look good. (I've seen a lot of stuff, so I cannot find where I've seen it)
  12. JennyMo

    Wild One

    Hee hee - no insults here, I read it in context ;o) You won't regret those Axial lights - I use them all the time - they are great quality and you get a good selection of different sizes for front and rear. I particularly like the little round flush fit ones which worked well in the bumper of the STUMPkin and I used them again in the rear of the STUMPkamper too for example: Jx
  13. Hi guys I need some advice. I have bought me a hotshot 2 from the US with aftermarket damper from You-G (?) Can anyone tell a bit more about it ? It looks like a mix of Hotshot 2 and Super Hotshot at the front section.. Are they period correct? upload
  14. it's something to do with window size. if ever you encounter the 'shakes' when editing, try resizing the browser window smaller (or something to other than full screen), then it should stabilise.
  15. Yeah, get him something new(er). I was actually thinking you could start him out with a B4. Shouldn't be expensive, parts are everywhere and it's in my opinion still a competent racer if a bit old hat. Then break out the big bucks if your boy gets serious about racing. It just bashing then anything Tamiya will do.
  16. Like everyone ssaid, keep the RC10 for nostaglic memories. Get him a kit with lots of parts available and modern electronics (waterproof ESC, Lipo, brushless or brushed motor, waterproof servo).
  17. yup i actually started off the same! ..but then saw the prop joint... "hey what if i jam this into the drill press". thus the RCLathe 6000 (tm) was born
  18. Yesterday
  19. Generally speaking you’ll only add sway bars if your trying to reduce overall grip, control extreme body roll on very long suspension or managing weight transfer in a high CG chassis. generally speaking these are conditions you don’t see on TT01. I can’t say I’ve ever thought I needed them on my TT01’s or TT02’s on my long travel modified XV01 long damper spec they are mandatory to control all the extra travel. But then there is 30+mm of travel, with 10-15mm of sag. Your TT01 probably only has 10-15mm if travel and your probably not running much sag, so it’s much less likely to be a issue.
  20. I did mine with a file and a vice grip, works great
  21. I should have added - the race kit thing applies to offroad only really. There are plenty of decent touring car kits or F1 which are fine for the slower onroad classes. A TA07 or TB05 would be fine, or the Xpress X1QS (I think, the cheap version which is about US100), Sakura etc. They probably wouldn't be so good in mod but 21.5T classes are plenty fast enough, you don't need to run mod to have fun. F1 you can run a F104 and keep up too.
  22. A guy at my club (large outdoor dirt track, caters to 8th scale as well) ran an RC10 Worlds rerelease last season and the car did ok. He reckons the new RC10 B6 would've been worth 2sec a lap, which isn't that bad considering its a 40ish second lap. Being a rerelease it was all new though, so he didn't have the durability issue that you would have running an original. The best advice is to go to the club you want to run at and check it out. I visited a few clubs and found that the one I expected to race at I didn't really like so ended up joining the one about 3 times as far away. Check out what classes are popular, theres nothing worse than buying a car and then being the only one at the club who runs it. You'll get to run in open or something, but then you won't be able to race properly as the cars are all different. You'll also be able to work out who the guys chasing the final 10ths of a second are and buy one of their old cars off them, no doubt barely used with a bunch of hop ups for less than half what they paid for it. A great time to buy is when a new model has just been released as many people will upgrade to the newest when there is very little difference between the new and old models. I would get a race kit too, not an entry level kit and try to make it be able to race. Race kits are far more durable for a start, but you'll also find you're limited on things like gearing if you take say a DT02 and run it in 17.5T stock class, you just won't be able to get the right gear ratio for the motor and will be well off the pace.
  23. hey you've got an airbrush now... you should give alclad metallic colours a try! ...i think you'll like it.
  24. I say Blizzard. I run stock electronics on my old Blizzard and the controlling is easy with 2 motors connected to the same stick (just like joystick), you just have to run the stick 45 degrees to go straight. FR's electronics should work even smoother for this application. Sabertooth is good if you want to use a wheel radio.
  25. Thanks all, great advice. New car it is, will take a look at your suggestions on what to go for. Feel a lot better now that decision is made! I like the idea of him running the old classic, but the real life practicalities of it don’t stack up, at least for now...
  26. I should have added my club also run a short course class predominantly for noobs and kids. It gives you a chance to learn without feeling like you're constantly in the way. Any cheap 2wd or 4wd sc trucks, stadium trucks or trophy trucks are allowed with sensible motor limits to encourage close racing. Most run HPI Blitz or Helions equivalent. A couple of more serious guys run an Arma Senton and Traxxas Slash.
  27. Today I received... my eBay purchase TB-01. Haven't had time to look at it much yet, but at first glance it looks pretty ace.
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