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  2. Perhaps the sky blue (49) backed with a darker color like the brilliant blue(30)? You'll need to experiment a bit. One of the translucent colors will really change color drastically depending on the backing color and the number of coats of each. Plastic soda bottles are cheap and easy way to experiment with color. Remember, the rust and dirt go on first when you're painting from the inside.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hello - I just bought a Lunch Box to build. I have not done one of these in almost 30 years so I am very new to it. First thing that is confusing me is that I have a HiTEC HS-645MG servo. Do I use the servo arm that comes with the servo or the one that came with the kit? I see that the ones that come with the kit are Futaba, Tamiya, Sanwa and Acoms. Will these work with a HiTEC servo? Also should the servo saver still be used? thanks
  5. I hear (from another forum) that Trowbridge is the cosmic centre of the universe.
  6. Dunks are in Trowbridge Wiltshire and do have a lot of tamiya stock or did when I last went in.
  7. Couldn't agree more. As a whole the Top Force isn't really built to the spec of say, a more modern TRF car. Its plastic-type content is fairly standard Tamiya-fair and less exotic than even the earlier Avante-series. Then again, its part of a versatile line of vehicles meant to fill many shoes. There's plenty of Tamiya-slop in the suspension and steering too. All-in-all, the buggy does perform rather well. The research I've gleaned from folks that actually raced them say, for certain tracks, they did extremely well against their contemporaries. They tended to favor smoother tracks though.
  8. I wonder, I'm not going to buy any carbon fibre bits until I've built mine and tried it. A local indoor club run a vintage class so if I ever make it to a meet then I'll give it a go and see what I think. I have read that there was some flex in the chassis and that was a common complaint from racers BITD. I probably won't buy it though, the cost is still high, even for the Yeah Racing set, and it seems a bit silly to spend that amount when the car will spend most of its life on the shelf.
  9. Hey. Does anyone have an Alpine they no longer need. Looking for a shelfer, with or without a chassis. Cheers.
  10. Not at all, just share pics so I will know if they look right on the Agrios shell before I use mine😁. Kinda off -topic but I have always thought about putting the xtraspeed ABS raptor shell on a TXT-2, since all the other monster releases came with a hardbody. Rcmart shipping to the US makes it a tough pill to swallow though.
  11. Hi All I've just received a Land Rover CC01 kit for my 57th from me lovely wife. I'd really like to do it in Land Rover 'Marine Blue' like the colour of the one in Shaun the sheep, and the one Vera drives, I'm having some trouble finding Lexan paint anywhere near that colour. Any help or hints on that much appreciated. Thanks Neil
  12. The carbon fiber chassis release was somewhat tempting (especially if I had the money to assemble an Evo clone) but in the end it seemed like it might be more bling than noticeable improvement. 12 year old me would have been all over it but current- day me has bills to pay (and an Ultima to save for).
  13. I run a gear diff in the front of my Top Force. I do recommend keeping a ball diff in the rear minimally, to reduce shock on the drivetrain since it lacks a slipper. Like @GTodd said, Top Force diffs foolproof. There's really no adjustment. Tamiya basically tells you to do them up the whole way and leave them like that. Since I'm not versed in the TA03 diff, what benefits does it offer over the standard Top Force unit? Edit: I researched and discovered the big difference may be less weight and an actual thrust washer included with the TA03 diff. Research also leads me to believe that the best diff would actually be the light weight, original Top Force Evo units with machined (rather than cast) pressure plates but they aren't readily available.
  14. As above wanted Capri Zakspeed bodies new without body post holes. Sven
  15. junkmunki

    RC motorcycle

    Hi and welcome to the club, The best place to find the parts you need would be on Ebay. If you do a worldwide search, there always a lot of spares for these bikes available. As far as hobby shops go, because they are no longer made, its doubtful whether you would get them there. Regards J
  16. I've been away for a couple of weeks so not progressed this for a while. As the scratches are very shallow, I reckoned a water based filler that can be painted on would be easiest to work with? For example this product available from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Color-Plastic-Putty/dp/B000PHCNLC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Vallejo+Plastic+Putty&qid=1571170058&sr=8-1 That notwithstanding, I also notice that Tamiya produce putty and liquid primers. Is this because they are a load of rubbish, or people just don't prefer them?
  17. Added a primer to the whole FAV driver tree it's actually a good little parts tree to get for the money as you get the driver, headlights, much better rear lights (with the additional shape) plus steering wheel, gear stick, a dash with grab handle (albeit attached to the solid bonnet) and a few other parts im not going to go into much more detail with the paint at the moment until I know what needs chopping. I think I’ll spray it up black though and paint everything on top of that base coat JJ
  18. Hey, nice - would you be willing to let one go for $ or trade?
  19. The TA 03 ball diff is a direct drop in, I have run a pair of them with an 8,5 T motor for years now, yes they are thinner but I have not encountered any wear issues and they are more bulletproof than the Top Force items
  20. Also, keep in mind that Savox servos can be pretty amp hungry (pulling over 3 amps at times). Depending on the ESC, you may need an external BEC. I am using the Savox SC-1258TG in mine but with a Tekin RS Gen2 ESC which has an internal BEC of 5.5 amps.
  21. Don't worry about the TF ball diffs, they are set and forget.
  22. They do make a big difference, you want something with a reasonable speed (.10 secs is about right, faster is better as you can slow it down on your radio). You also need enough torque to turn the wheel, I have heard on high grip carpet that people need 13kg cm which is the Savox 1258TG to properly turn the wheels on their buggies. I haven't had any problems with torque of 7kg cm though. I would get low profile too, there was a comment here that it frees up space. The more espensive the better durability and the more likely the claimed specs are correct. As i said earlier, the savox 1251MG feels a bit better than the Trackstar TS-D99X, but its US35 more expensive. Both of those appear to be as druable as each other, I run savox in my race buggies and they have lasted 3 years, and i bought them secondhand. A friend at the club has run the TS-D99X for a few seasons and it is still fine. The JX servo i have ordered but not received are a test to see if they are as good as the specs claim - for US13 i thought it was worth a punt. It will be as good as any US13 servo as you really do get what you pay for. If i were you, i would either take a punt on the JX servo or buy the Trackstar as the safe option, its twice the price but in my experience works.
  23. Thats what I was thinking, many of the upgrades were important for brushed motors and 1400mah racing packs, I can't see them making any real difference today. Funny you say that, I've been wondering the same thing, although only started looking at them in the last few weeks. Also wondering if gear diffs would be better than ball diffs, mostly because I prefer them in my other cars and they need less magic to mske work properly.
  24. thanks again for the feedback. its extremely helpful. i've started building the chassis since my last post and it is a big step up in difficulty from the boomerang. it looks like i lack the experience to really appreciate higher end electronics just now. My hope in terms of budget is to build something I can enjoy but can afford to make mistakes whilst i rrelearn the ropes. Nobody round here has a car and there is no local track i can find so i wont be racing what ive learnt/decided so far: - a brushless 13.5t motor (preferably no soldering needed) - a tamiya tble-02s esc. - a NiMH battery - radio: still looking. i need one with two sticks you control with you're thumbs, not the trigger and wheel type. as for the servos, how much of a difference does a good servo make? they vary a lot in price. michael
  25. Having had a Top Force since they first came out (which I still run!) I thought knew everything about them. Ive now read in three seperate threadss that the TA03 ball differential fits in it. Is this true? Arent the TA03 diffs thinner?
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