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  2. KEV THE REV

    Converting LWB M38 to SWB

    There was a topic about this on here a while back , but here is Lars' spot the difference on the 2 , it might give you the answer https://tamiyabase.com/articles/46-technical/173-want-to-compare-your-willy-part2-chassis-versions
  3. Hairyjon313

    WANTED : TA01 or TA02

    Hey. This has come up before. Looking for a TA01 or TA02 chassis that's cheap. PM me if you have anything. Cheers, Jon
  4. Today
  5. KING_TUBBY

    2019 Supra in Tamiya's pipeline?

    Could be a 1:24th static kit, although I think almost all RC touring cars have been done as 1:24th statics first.
  6. nowinaminute

    Grasshopper suspention

    Very good point, don't forget the additional servo too! I rebuilt a nikko dandy dash a while back and the suspension didn't want to really move without all those old parts so I ended up putting the throttle servo, MSC and massive old Acoms receiver back in as well as some extra weight to simulate the AA pack and compensate form the light battery. After all that it worked 100x better. I just hid the new ESC and reciever out of view. Really most Tamiya models right up into the 2000s were still designed around having a heavy nicad, second servo and AA battery pack etc. Stuff like the TL01 was being pushed for use with an ESC but still had the provision for using an MSC so it can really pay to have some extra weight low down in the chassis to compensate. You can buy little self adhesive wheel weights online for cheap, they are very handy for this purpose.
  7. Decided I want a Wild Willy back in my life. Keen to find a really nice version, ideally a new built shelf queen but if it has only been run a few times I am OK with that too. Not in the mood for a restoration, bur would also consider a parts haul as long as it included a new motor set up. Please get in touch if you have something you want to sell.
  8. I believe the earlier short-wheelbase Wild Willy M38 had a different gearbox to the LWB version that came later, but am I right in thinking this has nothing to do with the wheelbase and therefore if you can get the correct short braces to hold the rear arms, you can simply convert an LWB into a SWB?
  9. topforcein

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Got the wire loom for the trailer lights installed in the truck on the mfu. Also got thr trailer to a roller stage no sides yet as i am trying to get nath at mci racing to make me a couple of decals for the side panels. All the paint is complete and the match between the truck n trailer is not that bad esp seing the truck was painted a couple of years back.
  10. Hello everybody. Glad to be a part of this forum. I am an RC noob, but I dabble in models for a long time. I have the skills and knowledge to make a lot of things, but lack a proper workshop and funds for RTR parts. I've made a scale M105 Deuce, and decided to try myself out on a trail rig. Since I don't like the look of dedicated crawlers, and axial and trx4 trucks are expensive.. Cc01 was a really good place to start.. Since the forum can't upload the images directly, here's a link to the gallery http://imgur.com/gallery/9XLehq1
  11. So now I have something to contribute to this thread unfortunately. This happened two days ago. Copied and pasted from my other forum haunt. So I've lived in my home for nearly 17 years. I have run my Tamiyas a lot on our quiet little street over the years. Kids usually smile, I'll usually get the Gen-X'r who's friend had a Grasshopper/Hornet once, I've even had the occasional old-timer war vet talk about my Tiger I tank. I had the little WPL 1/18 truck out in the yard yesterday. It's a small mini-rock crawler. Goes super slow and has the two-speed transmission and 4WD. Yesterday I ran into Hippy-Dippy State Worker, Earth Conscious, Entitlled Bicyclist A*****e. I'm running the car on the side of the street and see a bicycle approach from the right. I stop and pull off, because you know, that's the polite thing to do and I don't want it to get run over. So bicycle lady circles my little truck, then proceeds to reach down, grab the truck and drop it into my neighbor's yard. At this point, I'm absolutely gobsmacked. I start yelling a string of profanities at her that would make an entire US Navy Carrier Battle Group proud. Called her an a******e and told her don't ever come back. Her response: "We use the road too"...Sure. Sure you do jerk. So, I've charged up the battery in the bigger Bigwig, which goes like an absolute missle. Kids' super soakers are cleaned and ready. Touch my truck and you get wet. Then I call the Po-lice for harassment while I have you on video.
  12. WillyChang

    Grasshopper suspention

    Grasshopper suspension ain't much to write home about. Think when we tried to get it working on a track, rear Hornet style shocks on the back worked best. I preferred the Grasshopper's fixed pivot vs Hornet floating hinge though. At the front we weren't allowed to hack in oil shocks so the springs were it. Best way was to stop it flapping like chicken wings by setting the car to arms horizontal then slipping lengths of fuel tube (silicone rubber tube) so the suspension stopped there. Gave much better steering stability. Best performance improvement was tyres, get some good rubber. We ran WildOne larger wheels in front & rear, get some good grippy rubber especially at the rear that's suited to your local surface. Fronts don't do much work but higher clearance with bigger wheel was advantage. Weight inside tub is good for stability too. Lipos can be 100-150g lighter than a nicad pack, most of the original cars also had the receiver pack of 4xAAs onboard too. Try adding 200-250g weight inside the chassis & Hornet suspension starts working halfway decent
  13. Biz73

    Decent track buggy

    Sorry, I wasn't trying to be rude, just pointing out that he wasn't here in the US so what's available might be different. Sorry if it sounded like I was being a jerk, that wasn't my intention at all.
  14. Timr100

    Grasshopper suspention

    So whilst messing around with the front suspension I came up with an idea (ALOT of free time on my hands at the moment) to stiffen the front shocks up I inserted some springs from a biro pen inside the original springs on the front and the difference is unbelievable. Quick and simple. Bit of bodge job but as test really pleased.
  15. There's a definite American-ness to them: Take a basic design that works and just keep chipping away at it, smoothing off the rough edges, but never changing the underlying structure. And expect that the end-user is going to want to change things around, so make it modular and easy to tinker with. Make it strong and able to handle anything, and don't worry too much about refinement. It works for us. Look at our pickup trucks: even now, they're body-on-frame, with a solid axle on leaf springs in the back and a cast-iron pushrod engine in front. 100-year-old technology, but they still outsell everything else. Keep it simple, throw horsepower at it, learn to work around its inherent flaws, and (as much as I hate the phrase) git 'er done. Of course, it's also what makes us so reluctant to change, as in the whole carbs vs fuel injection thing...
  16. Looks like the manufacturer sizes are pretty spot on: https://www.horizonhobby.com/storefronts/onyx/72v-3000mah-nimh-sub-c-stick%3A-standard-plug-p-onxp5311 FWIW, I use the Venom NiMH batteries with my Hotshot and their sizing was pretty spot on as well. Although, the downside was that I needed a converter for the connector (or had to solder a new connector).
  17. Paints in 👍👍. But I won’t be painting it yet got some others goodies coming I need as well something I’ve toyed with doing for years 🤣🤣
  18. Timr100

    Grasshopper suspention

    Many thanks for the advice.
  19. graemevw

    Vanquish rebuild

    Been generally checking this over and a few things are coming to light. Front shock tower has snapped again. Im not surprised, thought it would the first time i drove it, but it went checking suspension travel. I have ordered an aluminium 2001 tower. Doesnt give me much hope for the repaired G11, but im wary of running the good G11 i also have. It seems to sit a little high on the egress spec hi caps, no problem, ill put some spacers in them. Rear chassis bottoms out at the same time as the shocks but front doesnt. I might try and modify the 2001 tower or use it as a template to make a slightly higher one. Is it really worth trying to get the chassis to bottom out? The tyres are a little old and need glueing. I was thinking about maybe getting the narrower front tyres and narrowing the front avante wheels. Also thinking about fitting alloy C parts now, before the originals break. Seems like i am ending up building this into a reliable runner rather than a nice shelfer.
  20. nowinaminute

    Grasshopper suspention

    It doesn't make much difference at the back because the suspension locks up when accelerating, a design flaw/characteristic of all Tamiya models using that solid transaxle design. It will be possibly make it better when you're coasting along but even then, the rear suspension doesn't work great because all the weight is in the axle. It will make a bigger difference at the front end. One thing you can do at the rear is upgrade to hornet style pivots, it doesn't fix the lock up issue and introduces problems of its own but it will at least give you some axle articulation so the wheels can go up and over bumps and spend more time in contact with the ground although again, it becomes largely ineffective when you're under power. I would say it's worthwhile at the front though and if you get them at the front it won't look right if you don't get then at the back. That's what I always tell myself anyway
  21. Timr100

    Grasshopper suspention

    Hi all I am a complete newbie, after many many years I have bought my first tamiya the grasshopper, so I am asking for a little advice, I have fitted it with a 540 motor and a Robinson 18 tooth gear as well as bearings does fitting oil filled shocks make a big difference to its handling I noticed on ebay you can also get an anti roll bar link and shock mounts any advice would be much appreciated many thanks Tim. Oh and any tips would be much appreciated too
  22. DK308

    TRF503 hop ups?

    Hi all Still waiting for my TRF503 to arrive along with electronics etc. I was wondering what kind of hop ups are available for this thing? It's pretty stout out of the box, so I am aware that it is somewhat limited. In earnest, I will admit that I am a sucker for alloy parts for the bling factor. Not looking to sacrifice all performance of course, but I'm not in competition either. What I have found so far is these few things. 3Racing alloy steering assembly for the 501X and 511X. From what I can tell, it's the same parts as on the 503. Lunsford turnbuckles and titanium screws. RPM rod ends. Does anyone know if the TRF kits are supplied with the run-of-the-mill Tamiya metal shielded bearings, or are they rubber or teflon sealed bearings? Any other suggestions for alloy parts etc? Thanks guys.
  23. Otis311

    Finished Madbug

    HPI Ground Assault tires are great.
  24. It was the Futaba 4GRS, the only 2.4GHz stick transmitter with memory and display on their website. The T6K is also a bit too expensive for me, although of course I am quite happy to spend 200 quid on a car! Duh...
  25. Sounds good Hm, doing a Bullbuster speed challenge, eh? A fun idea i have thought of myself. What's your thoughts? Stock motors, brushed, brushless or ? I think it would be fun to see what it can do on stock tyres and stock chassis etc. I would however, belt the tyres i think.
  26. yogi-bear

    Tamiya CS chassis RM01 wheels?

    actually, I had to stretch them to fit. They might even be original foam tires (non-RM) from the era, but the fronts are definitely RM.
  27. Tizer

    2019 Supra in Tamiya's pipeline?

    Great news! I love my Tamiya Toyota's and can always add another to the collection
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