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  2. Nice! I still need to build mine. I read that the new Castle motors don’t fit due to how the wires come out of the motor, they interfere with the motor mount housing. Do you know if your Castle motor is a new one?
  3. Anyway, it sounds very promising that we can expect great new re releases. ...and now I'm really looking forward to the Ultima.
  4. If they go in time line order,.was it not the Optima Pro and a couple of different body colour salutes, before the Mid?
  5. Another reason to hate me. I am thinking of reducing the diameter of my Hilux tires to fit 1.55 wheels and I have some questions. How do you cut rubber smoothly? What type of glue is the best ? Can I weld by melting instead of glue ? How do you make it look like no work has been done on the tires ? ... This it the look I want for my FJ40; Thanks in advance : )
  6. Today
  7. Will these dampers fit on the Super Astute? Thinking of getting a SA, wondering if it’s worth grabbing a set for that car, assuming they fit.
  8. The big hurdle was getting past the Turbo Optima. Now that they have done that and have followed it up with the Ultima...which will surely be a big seller...then the path is clear for at least a couple of the Mids to come back. Especially since they have left a 5 kit-number gap between the Turbo Optima and Ultima. That suggests that they already know their plans for the next vintage kits that will come back.
  9. Hello, yes all correct... The wheels are direct fit for the tires and chassis. The LB mini has the Race Truck tires stock. You only need decals for the bumper but I guess that the clear boby contains decals... MCI racing decals are great quality. I ordered one for my Juggy restauration and they were perfect. Just select 1/24 scale when ordering.
  10. Those tires look great with original Tamiya lettering. I think you can make All-Terrain decals for the tires like newer Tamiya kits have. Hand lettering might end up messy and those tires are too valuable to remove the lettering in my opinion. How about rc4wd tires. I think the size and pattern is closest to a real Jurassic Jeep even with huge Tamiya fenders, but I can't use those cool 1.9 red wheels you have.
  11. @TDanny thanks! Do you have links for each of these items? I heard about the clear body being released soon, but are these the wheels you speak of: http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54741-road-racing-truck-wheels-black-2pcs-p-72454.html?cPath=35_2061_370 What about the decals? I found MCI Racing but didn't see the decals for it. EDIT: I think I found it. Just need to order the 1/24th size of this, right? https://mciracing.ca/products/blank-12th-2ba52296-ea4c-42b7-9e80-a6bb76ddfb54 Thank you!
  12. Found a little time this morning to clean up FAV 1 and do the little jobs on it. Simple pleasures, very therapeutic and nice to be tinkering.
  13. Driver now out back together. Extra battery included. + Full set of used Wild One wheels, tyres and adapters. + Some spares including set of 6 used Tamiya shocks. £99 + £12 for delivery or without the radio gear, batteries or charger £80 + delivery.
  14. If you lock the front diff should help a lot. I'm doing speed-runs and moving to one side while accelerating with over powered cars is always an issue.
  15. Pull issue might be due to wheel alignment? I notice mismatched wear particularly on your rear tyres. Another thing to check is that it isn't the steering servo itself steering when you punch the throttle. Weak BECs, batteries and/or cheap servos are known to cause problems when accelerating hard due to electrical noise from the motor and/or voltage drop at the battery. This is easy to test - hold the car in the air and punch the throttle, check that the steering servo doesn't jerk to one side. Sometimes a "glitch buster" capacitor connected to the receiver can help, but hardly ever fully cures the problem in my experience. Gears should be 0.6 mod unless the previous owner has fitted a 48dp spur. If the spur is the standard 0.6 mod one, excessive noise might be caused by the mesh being adjusted too tight, or just worn out teeth. Otherwise, 24t and 35t 48dp pinions are about the same physical sizes as the 21t and 31t 0.6 mod pinions you currently have. Just about any 48dp anodised aluminium pinion will do the job, they are fairly standardised. Make sure it has a 3.175mm (1/8") hole for the motor shaft, as 48dp pinions for 5mm shafts exist as well.
  16. Ok so I had a tinker last night. stripped the rear diffs and checked all was in order, no issues there. i swapped the wiring on the receiver and now if I press the left/right it goes flat out forwards and backwards! Up/down goes left/right! when I return them to normal positions (the wires) it still acts unusually and won’t run properly . . . This has got me totally bamboozled 🤔
  17. Thanks to all the advice on this forum, I finally got an XV-01. As promised by all the folks here, the XV-01 was: -- lots of fun -- different -- shockingly durable I tend to overpower my RCs, so as soon as I got the chassis (used, built up by someone else, in somewhat rough shape), I dropped in a 4-pole Castle motor (3800 kv), a Hobbywing Max10 SCT ESC, and 3s lipo, and got to work. I also went from the included 21t pinion to a 31t pinion (rather sizable increase in top speed - I'd say about 40 mph at this point although I don't the GPS unit handy). It is a small and light chassis (well, not compared to touring cars) so the 1800 and 2200 mah lips I had lying around last at least 10-15 min each (under intense conditions). I have larger packs but so far have not needed anything more. So far, all of my driving has been on pavement (maybe 5-10 packs) and the tires are just about worn down. I'll get some more sets, and perhaps even experiment with foams for dedicated on-roading. Does anyone use foams on these chassis just for on-road? It is a lot of fun to drive, handles pretty sharply, but I'm having trouble with a "pull" to the left when I give it full throttle (at any speed). If I roll onto the throttle, it works fine, but if I'm aggressive, it will pull left. I don't quite know what might be out of alignment because it seems to track just fine when I'm running up and down the street and NOT slamming onto the throttle. The motor and the ESC can go to 4s, so that's probably going to have to happen very shortly... ideally with the GPS attached. Anyone know if there is a 48p pinion I can buy for this? I think it came with a mod 6 pinion (not quite compatible - makes a lot of gear noise). Here are some pics:
  18. You can easily maka a Black edition by using the soon to be released clear body, two set of Tamiya Man Race truck black rear rims and MCI racing decals. Im planning doing the same thing but with Grave Digger decals... By the way I think that the SW01 is one of Tamiyas most versatile chassis with a lot of potential. It is a compact 4x4 gearbox wich could be used in a lot of trucks with different suspension setting. It could de the saint grail to pover up Bruder 6x4 tractor trucks or you could easily combine two SW01s and make a 8x8 truck.
  19. I honestly hope they make a Black Edition Lunchbox or at least the appropriate decals for it. Also a Monster Beetle for this chassis. The "new" Monster Beetle Trail being released is actually the Monster Beetle QD which I always thought had a hideous front-end and doesn't do the original Monster Beetle any justice.
  20. In my TRF201 i simply took thr fan off the 10BL120 ESC and it was fine. For a 13.5 motor i bought a Team Associated B4 72t spur (direct replacement for the tamiya spur) and ran a 27t pinion for gearing around 7FDR. It was perfect.
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