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  2. If you want to lock the front diff just pack it with blu-tac 👍
  3. If your going that far then definitely need titanium screws, lightweight chassis and carbon prop 😅
  4. What's the attraction of those brown boxes? Sometimes I stand in front of the shelf and just look at them.....
  5. started putting together my next restoration object...............
  6. That's the sad part of affordable 3D printing. But your Jeep looks great so far. Are you keeping the hard top ?
  7. Great collection in such a short time. I love the Jeep. In 10 years only difference my collection had is a layer of dust.
  8. Today
  9. @Kevin_Mc I first chopped the ledge on which the esc was sitting to lower CoG and this was next step. I think the ultimate version would be doing a ledge out of aluminium corner this way you could lower your esc another 5/6mm I will have a look into it. Like Cy recommended M03 seem good I will probably order a set. What lipos are you using in your TL01s ? This afternoon I was at the track, aside from breaking my Stadium Thunder once again, the TL01 was hard to drive. After many days of rain the track was still wet and the overcast 10deg we had all day didn't help to dry up. Once you got a bit a heat into the tires it was better but if you get into the grass it became donuts' city until they got back up to temp and dried. It was fun nonetheless.
  10. I run NiMh as we have a family fleet of bashers. As such i want fast easy changes as the 3 littles all run to me to change their batteries. Madbull's (was 2 in fleet now just 1) have been modified so they have a simple over center flip to retain battery. They are actually front shock mounts from Thundershot series. WT-01 (used to be 3 now only 1) no mods as work ok Traxxas Stampede's now 3 in fleet all had to be modified so I can change the battery with ONLY......removing 1 R clip, I have on all 3 trucks extra R clips in the body posts so WHEN I loose one at a battery change it does not interrupt play. SO for me I want a fast change with a reliable retainer IDEALLY with nothing to remove that is easily lost.... JUST realised if I use a cable tie on the traxxas battery R clip I can stop loosing them.. back in 5 min!
  11. LOVE the Max Max Blitzer Beetle.
  12. Sorry it has been a minute. I got her running. I am using a traxxas xl5 esc, a horizon hobby 20t dynamite 540, and a traxxas 7.2 3000 mah 6 cell nimh. Oh yeah and the original servo. Switched the rec/Transmitter to a nice generic chinese set. This thing is fast, and a lot of fun. Thank you guys for the advice to go new electronics. I hope to get a newer super hotshot at tax time and upgrade it beyond belief. I will post pictures later.
  13. Managed another half hour today I got a battery charged up and had a look to see what’s what. Well it runs I guess I need to get it on the floor and see how it moves under it’s own steam! I’m scared haha!
  14. @Balgaroth, thanks for the reply. That’s what i thought would be best as it’s completely reversible. Since you got such good results with the outboard ESC i think i’ll steal the wife’s kitchen scales and go through all my TL01s to balance them out, and might just convert on or two to rwd. I made a rwd TC a few years ago from an M04 using TL01 arms and two M04L spacers with good results although i was using a gyro from a helicopter. I can’t remember off the top of my head which front axles i used but they definitely had a flat disc at the rear with no drive cup.
  15. Same here @netsmithUK. Can make it stop only by reducing the window size right down.
  16. So the second Mugen Super Sport arrived from Japan and this afternoon I got them together to take stock The two cars together The left hand green one will yield a load of parts for the right hand car that are needed to make the replica Original Mugen Fuel Filter The correct exhaust. I actually have two now so will probably use the used one and sell on the new one to make back some money The receiver and switch covers and the black chassis plate My restored car below will lose a few bits, namely the engine, pink chassis, pink hardware and eventually the blue shocks Correct Engine (Nova 2000) with the Mugen head and the already painted body So the plan of attack is as follows: Strip down the green car, taking the parts from it I require (chassis, rx and switch cover, fuel filter) Strip down the replica and remove the parts I dont need (pink washers, pink chassis) Refurbish the black chassis and fit to the replica (Strip, sand, repaint) Buy an original Mugen Sport chassis used and fit to the green car. Sell the very rare pink chassis (its actually a limited numbered Mugen Athlete chassis) on Ebay Find someone willing to swap a blue damper set for the original Sport silver ones. Should't be too hard as loads of collectors about. Sell the OS engine from the replica and use the Novarossi Engine Sell the NIB Mugen exhaust on Ebay Sell the green Mugen Sport on Ebay Sort my decal issue. The end goal is to send the body to Mugen in Japan and try and get Koji Sanada to sign the shell.
  17. I'm really enjoying your updates, keep them coming! I have a Blitzer Beetle, which is basically the same thing, and it is my go-to basher for playing in the woods.
  18. Put some shocks from my TT02B into my trusty Aldi ultrasonic bath, I'm impressed!
  19. Still a lot of sanding to do. Boy the stuff that shapeways use is tough. Looks ok from a distance More primer more elbow grease!!!
  20. About this time last year I was looking do do something other than 1/24 scale cars and 1/48th scale planes. I was in the local skate park and saw a youngster running some kind of toy buggy up and down the ramps. It set me thinking. I remembered the Tamiya Mini and thought that would be fun to blast around the skate park. So I started looking around. Then stopped as I couldnt find anything suitable. Then 2 things happened, one was the release of the Defender CC01( or at least I found it) and two I found Tamiyaclub. I wandered around the site learning about the CC01 and at Christmas I bought one. In the January, I think, I joined this site. Since then my collection has grown, none have been box art or in some cases quite modified. I love building, altering & running my models, though not as often as I could or should. My bank balance is a little dented but its only money. If I dont spend it the Kids will!!! Below is my collection so far: So the story so far has gone full circle. The CC01 is now sporting its new Jeep body. There is one Blitzer chassis not there cos its still in bits. So what does a new Year hold in store? Maybe a CC02 or a reliant supervan wheely car!!! I still want that Mini. If anyone has one going begging for a reasonable price let me know, any of the bodystyles would do but must be front motor fwd. I live in hope.
  21. Thanks, I read that earlier. His battery, at least in the photos, doesn’t have any cables coming out of it. My issue is the cables leave the battery in the middle at one end so it interferes with the clamp (I see they appear to have fixed this problem with the TT02 by making the clamp go diagonally across the battery from corner to corner). Maybe I can get away without the clamp at all though if I use foam tape....
  22. So today the Stadium Thunder came back to life, very much so ! Exit the brushed setup it is now on a 4370kv brushless setup. While I was at it I installed the universal props at the back, re-opened the diff, put the low profile servo and setup my battery lenghtways. I also replaced the original shocks by alu ones which I rebuilt with proper oil and hard springs at the back. I swaped the Proline Wedge to the front and while I am waiting for new proper back tires I will finish up the originals that have near 0 grip. Quite some change done which I hope will make a big difference on the track. So far I tried it on the street with a 13T pinion and this motor is violent. Since it is a cheap GoolRc I wasn't expecting too much but I am not sure I will keep it on the truck as it may be too much for it. I need to sort out the battery holder better, it is solid but not neat.
  23. I've heard of Schleich, all I need to to is find a toy shop. Toys R us used to be my go to store for odd scale figures but sadly no more. I think there is a Smythes somewhere in Watford so will have a look. Ah PAL prolongs active life!!!!!
  24. @ThunderDragonCy thanks for the tips for tue M03 axles I will look it up ! As for tires I am using cheap Aliexpress tires, the rubber is soft enough but not slow rebound/resin style of rubber. To get a good balance I am using a Tamiya medium closed cell insert in the front while I run the very soft open cell foam that was provided with the tires. I can touch the rim while pressing on my back tires, it would be an effort to do the same at the front. I am actually somewhat worried by getting race tires as they are already glued on and I am not sure that compound alone would be enough to keep the balance. I read your topic with the TA06 which I found interesting, maybe the fact that I am running an fully open diff helps too ? Keep in mind that I am running a 15t brushed too which is not massively powerful I guess. I also read a lot of pages around that topic on another forum where most of the guys were saying it is impossible to make a 1/10th rwd and arguing about putting front brake of reverse one way. One thing is true in all this, braking need to be very gentle but my track is very open so I don't really need to brake hard or accelerate hard it is more about throttle modulation.
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