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  2. Original Tamiya (1992?) Mountaineer I'd say. One-piece rims, as far as I can see from the pics.
  3. @GermanTA03Guy That is a nice comment! Thanks! I am still not so sure why, but the FF-01 became the chassis I love the most. For most people it is maybe just a silly plastic car. For me it has so much cool features like every model got its own wheels, the iconic bodies of 90s touring car series, then (not on the same level like the TA-03) the Hop-Ups that transform the look. And the icing on the cake: The balance/behaviour of this car. If you don’t have fun driving this, then I don’t know… Maybe, I know exactly why I love it so much If I could make a wish, I want Tamiya to do exactly this again. Looking forward to see you build one soon
  4. Hi guys, can anyone help with what truck this chassis came from and if it's original or a rere?. Thanks, Gaz
  5. The chunky 0.6 module gears make a bit of noise once you get up to speed, but it is still quieter than most touring cars.
  6. I have started quite enjoying brushed motors - the open end bell type - and the possibilities of modifying or improving things and ultimately having fun learning something in the process. So I thought I could document my tinkering with this thread. As a first "part" in this uber ambitious thread I figured I would go over making a Super Stock motor run in the reverse direction, i.e. clockwise. When I first wanted to get a brushed motor to run clockwise I did a bit of research. I found a few things, including an older thread of TC. All I will say is it is difficult to find a consensus on anything and there is sometimes many different opinions on how to do this. So here is my humble take on it. I am using a TZ. Before I open anything we can look at the timing marks on the can and end bell. The indentations in the end bell are 6deg apart from each other. The index with the "0" stamped on the can is the 0 timing mark. This means that if the right-most indentation of the end bell were aligned with the "0" index, the motor would be timed at 0deg. These are theoretical/nominal values - more on that later. In any case the TZ out of the box is timed at about 10degs. The TZ is rebuildable and very easy to open; when closing it back there is a little plastic tab molded into the end bell that matches a notch stamped in the can. Every open end bell motor in the current Tamiya offerings shared this end bell and its index. The difference is how Tamiya clocks the notch into each can. This is how the timing is determined at the factory when Tamiya builds the motors. For example below is a Lightly Tuned motor, the end bell is the same (only in blue plastic) but the notch in the can was stamped at a different location than the TZ: The other side revels how much the timing is: That is just past the first notch so I would imagine 7deg, unless the intention was to make it 6deg but the end bell was allowed to turn slightly before the tabs were crimped (manufacturing tolerance). Back to the TZ, let's open it now: The rotor says "Tamiya 23T" and has some machining marks for balancing, contrary to cheaper motors that use blobs of epoxy putty for balancing. Not sure which is best honestly. The washers are important as they are supposed to locate the rotor as best as possible in the heart of the magnetic field created by the magnets. So I will refer to the picture for reassembly: front 1 silver washer, rear 1 gold and 1 silver washers. The larger orange washer looks like a phenolic washer and is intended to protect the bearing from the arcs that are flying off crazily between the brushes and the comm! The round aluminum ring with 2 small holes is the retaining ring and is important since we are going to have to modify it if we want to run Clockwise! The retaining ring is inserted by locating the 4 round notches with 4 dimples imprinted into the can. Then it is rotated so that it won't fall off and to align it with the end bell when said end bell has its tab aligned with the notch in the can. As an unfortunate fluke, for our purpose of retiming to 10deg in the opposite direction the 4 dimples in the can would be right by the 4 notches in the ring and so it would fall off. So the fix is to drill and tap a pair of new holes as far as possible form the original ones. Let's start by measuring the hole to hole distance: Hole to hole is easiest measured from edge to edge rather than guessing where the center is at. Here we have 29mm. The holes are threaded to M2.5, so I actually had to buy a tap for the occasion, having never tapped anything that small! The cross drawn on the right helps center the ring before scribing a new line. Then 2 punches are made 29mm apart and centered. The metal is insanely soft and I simply pressed on the punch to make these marks. Tapping will be easy, and stripping something easier still! And we have threads! Very easy indeed. I only used the first tap (rough) and did not use the finishing tap and the threads were already very clean and accurate for the Tamiya screws. We then reassemble the motor, but before, I like to remove the ugly copper clips: These clips are only used to hold the magnets at the factory during the gluing process. Tamiya (or whoever builds these for them) only leaves the clips inside to save time/cost. The motor is easier to clean without the clips installed. Here is the motor with the rotor inside and the retaining ring, sporting its new set of holes: I marked the original position of the end bell on a piece of masking tape, before cutting the plastic tab off: And there we have it, 10deg of reverse timing. Some thoughts on accuracy performance differences compared to out of the box: The magnets are glued more or less centered inside the can, a can which already has its timing mark stamped. So 0deg timing is just an indication. Who knows if in reality it is not 0.5deg or -0.5deg. Then the notch in the can is stamped, again with some tolerance; finally the tab in the end bell is not a perfectly tight fit to that notch so there is a possibility that when Tamiya aims for 10deg, any given motor could be at 9.5deg or 10.5deg, or worse. For this reason I think the resulting motor is very similar in performance to what it was out of the box. Due to its symmetrical design, the motor will not know nor care whether it is turning CCW or CW. The only piece that is no symmetrical are the springs that push on the brushes as they reach the brush from one side. I can't see how this would have any impact on the clockwise configuration though! I hope this is useful to some.
  7. Hello both, Thanks very much for such thorough replies - I think I've got a better idea of how these things work now, so I'm very grateful for your time explaining this. I'm still a little bit hazy on what exactly "fixed" timing means, though...perhaps I could impose upon you for another game of yes/no/sort of? ▪️A Sensorless motor supplies the rotor position to the ESC via back-EMF from the three phase coils. ▪️A Sensored motor does the same, but via three Hall-effect sensors aligned with the three phase coils. ▪️Changing the timing in an ESC attached to a Sensorless motor running in reverse works fine, because the back-EMF builds up to the triggering level, regardless of which way the motor's running. ▪️Even running a Sensored motor in reverse (by swapping the phase wires) doesn't work, because the phase sensors are in a different sequence to the phase coils, which is why you can fix this by swapping the six sensor wires...or three of them, at least. To be honest, this doesn't sound very difficult, but would it work? I've now read appendix 4 of the EFRA guidelines, so thanks for prompting that bit of research 👍 So what does "fixed" timing actually mean? I thought it just meant the end cap of the motor couldn't be rotated, but I can't even see what effect rotating it would have on a Sensorless motor. In fact, thinking about it, if the sensors are in the stator, then rotating the end cap wouldn't affect a Sensored motor either, would it? Are the sensors actually on the end cap? Thanks for the ESC link - this is one of the many I've read the manual for, trying to figure out if they can run motors in reverse! I'm planning on going for 17.5T motors, so roughly 2000kV...does that sound a bit conservative? I watched a video of some poor chap trying to run a WR01 with 3100kV motors and it was utterly uncontrollable... Thanks again! 👍
  8. Today
  9. Only one? This solution (in the video) is very popular but it is not very clean mechanically. It only works because the parts are binding (because of slop basically). The good news is the car does not drive half bad with the stock upper arms. True they are not adjustable, but handling and tire wear pattern indicate that there is nothing wrong with the stock parts. Often people (myself certainly included!) want to remove slop so that the car feels "higher spec" when you behold it when in reality there is no measurable effect on the track.
  10. What an amazing thread, it appears, built just for me haha. What a shame some of the images dont work anymore, and it appears @a.w.k. doesnt post here anymore
  11. I found the same solution here: There is only one issue. On video above, OP uses probably 2.5 mm x 2 spacers on front bumper. Totally is is around 5 mm. I checked 12 mm spacer and angle between upright and front bumper is very steep. I have feeling that suspension will not be free anymore. Any ideas, how it is possible?
  12. Da ich auch einen Tyco Bandit habe bin ich sicher das er noch kleiner ist, eher 1:14. Gruß Zippo
  13. Yes, but I've never seen any Hotshot hubs with Toe. Might have to make them.
  14. Hi, I found interesting solution for TT-02 on YT: It looks like very nice, cheap upgrade. What do you think?
  15. Still waiting on the Plaza Japan order, been told it will arrive on Saturday. Made another from them in meantime for alloy hub carriers with 8 degree caster angle, some toe-ins for rear wheels, a B parts sprue and some other screws. Took another look at chassis and took hex's off to realise 2 of the pins were missing, one on front, one on rear on oppsite sides so may as well order some alloy hex's now instead of just the pins. Bought another Wild Dagger which has had some mods done including alloy shock towers and 95mm Fastrax adjustable shocks with springs that suit body.
  16. So I guess one could use hotshot rear hubs if fitting turnbuckles, since the tops don't much matter? That assuming toed in hotshot hubs exist.
  17. @GermanTA03Guy: Yes, I will See also our german regional group.
  18. This is awesome. What's the scale of these bodies? Around 1/10 or more like 1/12. I've got more cars than I need but something like this is still on my dream list, but all my cars are 1/12 max, so want something that looks scale with the Pumpkin.
  19. I think there is a bit of misunderstanding regarding how tires generate cornering force in this post, and I feel compelled to clarify, respectfully. Tires need a skid angle to generate any cornering force at all - this is how they work. So a car moving in a straight line would have its tires at 0deg of skid angle and the tires would not be generating any cornering force (let's ignore toe and Ackerman for the discussion). When you make a steering input a skid angle will develop and with it, a cornering force. The skid angle would only be a few degrees. In fact all 4 wheels will assume a certain amount of skid angle - the rear tires will do so as soon as the car initiates the turn - and therefore generate a certain amount of cornering force. What is true, is that past a certain skid angle (say, 10deg...) the cornering force does not really increase anymore. It does not decrease; it just stops increasing as you increase the skid angle.
  20. That is an interesting topic and surprisingly one with no definite answers indeed! I researched it for a project where I needed the motor to turn clockwise (i.e. in reverse direction compared to the normal direction found on most Tamiya models). I went in a different direction, using a brushed motor instead. Where I left is that some ESC's have a setting for CW or CCW rotation direction. As far as timing goes, my understanding after some research is that timing from the endbell and timing from the ESC have the same effect and as such can be cumulated, cancel each other out etc. Setting the endbell to 10deg and the ESC to 10deg is the same as setting the endbell to 20deg and ESC to 0deg as far as I know. So if you could find an ESC that supports CW direction and also has adjustable timing, you would be able to make it work. If the motor had adjustable timing you would set it to 0 and use the ESC to get the timing you want. If it did not (for example, fixed timing motor for spec racing stuck at 18deg) you could compensate for that (now reversed) timing through the ESC. I am curious to know if anyone has tried the above.
  21. That's superb looking. Well done. I wish you luck with the postal racing. I hope to try mine for the first time after the rebuild tomorrow.
  22. That looks factory finished. Marvellous job, well done.
  23. Just download the manual and it's easy! When rebuilding an old model in need, I like to print out the manual and go methodically in reverse of the build steps, highlighting and documenting each incorrect or missing part, screw, etc. (Just remember, the printed manual may not be to scale, so measuring the fasteners is essential). Then source all those items before the rebuild, ensuring as close to authentic as possible. Have fun!
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