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  2. No, JIS get a JIS driver and your hatred for Tamiya screws will dissolve
  3. Today
  4. It would be great if it was Philips. But where I'm supposed to get JIS scredriver in the middle of Europe? It wouldn't be Tamiya if it didn't have all plastic chassis
  5. actually, just watched a video on youtube, seems they are just noisy gearboxes.
  6. I bought number 106 a few weeks ago, secondhand here in NZ. Finally got round to giving it a go today, gearbox is noisy as..a really noisy thing. I greased up the pinion and main gear, still noisy, so I removed drive shafts and poked some tamiya grease in there too. Made zero difference. Smoother maybe, but no quieter. Its not clicking, its just...noisy. Like perhaps the gears are worn, although I would suspect it might slip or click if that were the case. The previous owner did state it has always been noisy, if it was me I woulda done something about it, but judging by the spares, he's been through several rear tires. Are these just notoriously noisy gear boxes or is there a hush puppy upgrade? I've got some that are a bit whiny, then ones like my wild one that a whisper quiet, but this takes the cake. cheers
  7. Before you paint the body it needs to be de-greased thoroughly as it will probably have some kind of mold release residue on it - suspect that might be your problem. I always wash bodies in the bath with shampoo or bath foam and rinse with the showerhead then dry the body properly before painting. That might sound crazy but it works. I use the bath because the bodies are too big for my kitchen sink. You should use primer before colour coat. Build up the colour with several fine coats to avoid runs. You may find using sticky tape will strip the blue paint off if it has not stuck well or try some very fine abrasive paper. Have you tried ebay for the sticker sheet ?
  8. Same diff and diff lockers as cc-01 !? (Looking at manual page that's showing)
  9. If I do it again, I might try 1mm marker on the side trim. 2mm was a bit too thick, but the groove was thick too. At least, alcohol can erase Molotow quite easily.
  10. Tamiya will release blue, white and red plastic rails. And later some blue aluminium ones. And then silver aluminium ones. And then some "special edition" black aluminium ones. And you'll all buy them. Edit: here's the latest instagram photos
  11. Was not expecting plastic frame rails. Interesting selection for sure.
  12. That looks really good. I had been debating doing this myself to an NSU TT body. Nice to know it does work well.
  13. hopefully someone will make some metal rails for it. more from their instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/B2iEvOgFSbM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
  14. Oh yeah please try that! I've rebuilt the diff with original Avante diff internals but same issue. Currently the new trans is out and running the Kingcab with the standard box until the spare gears show up.
  15. My "project list" had too many unfinished shells. Cutting and applying mask was quite demanding. It occurred to me that I can draw silver from inside. (Molotow 2mm pen) If it rolls, the stickers might scrape off. But the silver underneath it won't be affected. It's not as shiny on the outside, but still shinier than stickers. Too uneven to keep it as it is. I'll probably apply outside decal over the silvers. I was able to erase Molotow Chrome with alcohol, which means it's acrylic. So, PS-62 didn't dissolve Molotow. I cut up scrap to mask the gap in the open trunk. I might paint the gap black, smoke or leave it clear. 2 layers of orange. White under orange. Black under white. 5 layers is a bit overkill, but oh well.
  16. I have 29 (I think) cars in the shed. All of them are runners. Whilst I absolutely get the reason people have shelf queens, I prefer to have cars with memories that extend well beyond the build phase. Painting/detailing is my least preferred part of RC. I go for function over form. Pre ebay I had to shelve runners as I couldn't get parts. The most memorable was trying to find E parts for a King Blackfoot. Too many jumps had destroyed the rear shock tower. Once ebay gain popularity, I was able to get a set of parts from the UK. So the runners that are getting harder to find parts for tend to be used lightly... whilst those with plenty of parts availability get used pretty hard. The beauty of this hobby is that there are no rules.... (unless you want to race of course), so people can do what makes them happy. I just recently dipped my toes into the world of nitro and am really enjoying the learning curve and the time my son and I spend on the car.
  17. Nope looks like plastic as you can see the white colored marks from the spot they trimmed them off a parts tree.
  18. Is this what you're looking for? Tamiya Parts Matching List/Table
  19. Looks rigid. Are the side frames made of metal/steel?
  20. Please post here the part number(s) # that is also being used or by other chassis. This will be helpful for parts hunting guide and alternative especially for older kits that can use parts from newer models. Examples are: FF-01/FF-02/TA-02/TA-03/CC-01 - #0445246 #50705 #58121 #50555 knuckles FF-01/TA-02 - #9335609 #50637- tub chassis #53166 F.R.P. chassis FF-03/TB-03/TB-04/TB-05/TA-05/TA-06/TRF415-416-417-418 - #51352 #51332 knuckles (front uprights) #54568 (carbon reinforced) FF-03/TB-03/TB-04/TB-05/TA-05/TA-06/TRF415-416-41-418 - #51333 #51354 rear upright #54570 (carbon reinforced) I will update this post from time to time.
  21. I added a shim to give a bit more space. I forgot what size. 0.3mm or 0.4mm, I think. That added a tiny bit of clearance, so it's much less quiet.
  22. Tamiya never really had a direct analogue for the Ultima really, at least not initially. I just don't see it being an issue for Tamiya.
  23. Yesterday
  24. Yay. Phillips' head screws. C'mon Tamiya.
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