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Egress black vs Egress 58583 (2013)
Anthroxoid replied to RyantheRed's topic in Re-Release Discussions
Well hey, the friendly FedEx ninja stopped by and left a large parcel on the front porch. Seeing as it contains a regular 2013 Egress Re-Re I cast my vote as this being better than the Black since I don’t have the latter in the shop -
Another good mail day! Some misc stuff and a avante special motor for the Egress! -That was fast, it beat the egress here. Seems like i ordered it like sunday. Ill have to check... ryan
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The price is not bad really as well the clear is 319 and this one which looks nicer is only 60 more.
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Minor after-bash repairs and adjustments to the trophy truck.
- Today
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I'd like to ask if even the pinion gear shaft is interfering with the original gearbox cover?
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I'm an incurable Jeepaholic. I bought this FMS-ROC Hobby 1/6 scale Jeep a couple years ago and although I like driving it, it’s always seemed a bit too slow for me – it’s truly a “Crawler”. So today I replaced the FMS-branded 35t 550 motor with a peppy little Traxxas 20t 540 unit. Now, it’s fast enough to fling payload out of the trailer… … but not quite this fast. I’ve also taken some time today to do a little research. Please pardon me while I geek-out on a little Jeep history. The US Government’s contract to produce Jeeps was awarded to Willys-Overland Motors and Ford Motor Company in 1941. The Jeep’s design actually belonged to Bantam USA (they won the design contest) but the US War Department’s daily production requirement greatly exceeded Bantam’s manufacturing capacity (they employed 15 workers at the time) so manufacturing rights were handed to Willys and Ford. Of the roughly 647 thousand WWII Jeeps, about 277 thousand were made by Ford. Anyway, during war-time production, Willys' Jeep was known as an “MB” while Ford's were called the “GPW” (G=government, P=wheelbase code (80”), and W=Willys engine design). This FMS RC model is marketed as a “1941 Willys MB”. Early Willys Jeeps included a multi-part grille (similar to the original Bantam’s) that was constructed from flat stock – they are called “slat grille MBs”. Since the Willys grille was (needlessly) complex, Ford suggested a much simpler-to-make single-piece stamped steel part (it featured 9 slots), the Government approved the design change so all Fords and post-‘41 Willys featured the new stamped grille. This FMS model includes the 9-slot grille so it cannot be a ’41 Willys but it could be ’42 or later. But there’s more. There are a few subtle differences between Willys' MB and Ford's GPW; The glove box door and speedometer markings to name a couple. This model actually includes the projected glove box door and speedometer marked in 1 MPH increments which were featured in the Ford GPW. The MB's glove box doors were flat and speedos were marked in 10 MPH increments. So why is FMS calling this a “Willys MB”? Probably because most fans of the Jeep have always associated it with Willys-Overland; it’s a "Willys Jeep". Also, since Willys-Overland Motors no longer exists (the company became defunct when it merged with Kaiser in 1953), this saves FMS licensing costs. I’ve also learned that: “Jeep” is not slang for GP “GP” does not mean “general purpose” and “Willys” is pronounced “will – ess” not “will – ease”. Okay, most of this will appear on Monday's exam. I hope you were taking notes.
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The tops are different BUT the rere Terra Scorcher are the exact same dimensions.
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Look, I love Tamiya that said AE does not need the spare support that Tamiya does. You aren't going to brake anything. It's a vintage rere you can get ANYTHING online.
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I've been looking for the cheapest price for maybe 50-70 rubber-shielded bearings. The best price I found is $3.39 for ten. Have you guys seen better deals out there? I've seen other odd sized bearings for less, like $2.80 for ten. But not for 850 bearings.
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^ not sure about Sanwa, but I can still get FASST receivers for my 15 year old 4PK. But why would I, when I can get cheaper, smaller Chinese receivers that I can use on both my 4PX and 10PX.
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CVA1.0 parts for Sand Viper.
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Cheers @Tamiyastef 👍🏻 Funny you should mention that, as Mrs RB and myself started framing up a Sand Scorcher box and some other Tamiya art works the day before 😃. Not that I have much room to hang them 🤣 I do wonder sometimes though how well some photos would enlarge? Ones that I’ve taken with my daughters nice camera would probably stand a better chance than ones with my phone.
- Yesterday
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EDIT: Sorry, just realised your looking for a way to get the same finish on BOTH sides of the wing edge - I would be interested in knowing if there's a way to do this too. (Can't see an option to simply delete my post...) As you were...
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@Re-Bugged https://tcphotos.net/image/ffJBO Poster material IMO.
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A long shot, but I thought I would ask... Has anyone tried to fit Rush tires onto Tamiya wheels? I bought the Rush 36 "round type", the rubber feels very promising, nice and tacky. But then they seem very loose on the m-chassis 11 spoke wheels I am debating pushing them sideways to help the tires conform to the rim while the CA glue sets, or trying to source Rush wheels, with uncertain offset and compatibility with the current car and body that I have. Thanks!
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You should check out RC10Talk. They really seem to be into RC10s over there . Seriously though, its a bottomless resource for all things RC10. To answer your question, Sabula Tech has a couple vintage options including the Jammin' Jumper body I've been contemplating for my Graphite Team Car.
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* One of those ‘Double post’ phenomenon*
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Practice practice practice 😉 Pistol & trigger controllers certainly help as it’s easier to drive with just the left hand so the right hand can take (literally) hundreds photos on burst mode to get a couple of good ones. I had to re-learn a bit once Apple changed the burst mode from a simple hold the button in to drag it left a bit and hold. I think it’s possible to take still’s from a video clip but I haven’t tried yet. Love that Big Foot of yours by the way 👍🏻
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@Mad Ax - just saw your rig briefly on the Popalong Mendip coverage. Looks sweet. Well done for getting it finished in time! -
Maybe so maybe not. Ive had my Sanwa MX-V for many years and it hardly gets used bc its impossible to find new Rx units for it. I went for a cheap FlySky to replace it as my daily Tx. It was cheap and so I won’t care when it goes obsolete.
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The way that I see it, the limited release gimmick is in line with Thunder Tigers "race-grade" stuff. Build something nice, offer weak parts support ,and discontinue it rapidly so they can sell you the next maguffin, and everyone can gobble up the old parts. This both ensures that Thunder Tiger won't have spare inventory sitting around, and it keeps people buying their new products, either because they need to be competitive or because they missed out. It's the smartphone system, and afaik it began under Thunder Tigers ownership. This is also one of the few ways for Team Associated to build hype for their brand outside of the racing-realm. I can only assume that their "bashers" aren't selling too well.
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Thunders TD4 Mod Log - Possible Hotshot cage/body
ThunderDragonCy replied to ThunderDragonCy's topic in The Builds
Yes, i did. The silver ones that scuffed up super easy were those. They do fit on the three point mounting, and that works with modern axles. No bother. White ones will be fine. -
Thunders TD4 Mod Log - Possible Hotshot cage/body
BuggyDad replied to ThunderDragonCy's topic in The Builds
Ooh yes. It's got the full trodden on (just kidding. Sorry! 😉) Hotshot look! Looks great. Hey have you tried the Hotshot wheels for 2.2" tyres from JCR? Were they the gold wheels you scuffed up too easily like I did my silver pepperpots? I think I'm going to get some for my Boomerang but they'll be white. I think they come with the vintage style three point hubs but I guess such things are a direct fit on modern axles anyway. -
Thunders TD4 Mod Log - Possible Hotshot cage/body
ThunderDragonCy replied to ThunderDragonCy's topic in The Builds
Some 3D printed bits arrived, and i think we are onto something. Reworked rear tower, and a front cage mount Quick look see with my Hotshot 2 bits I think it's got enough potential i am going to get a Super Hotshot body and see how it goes. -
These arrived from PJ Unfortunately the +2mm eyelets didn't do enough. I tried a few different things and none of them resulted in ride height more than about 4mm, and hardly any droop. Just trying to figure it out i put the long eyelets (so +6mm from stock) on and it sort of worked. IItsway too much droop, and i can only just get it down to 6mm ride height, but it's better than either of the shorter options. I gave definitely done my maths in the CAD wrong somewhere. I need to get this back to the shocks mounted to their own eyelets on the tower and put the +2mm back on, then keep unscrewing them until i get what i want. Then work out how much to revise the shock tower. Still, at least with the long eyelets i can fire it up and run it a bit. At least the rear seems right.
