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  2. Jonathon Gillham
    My son has had a 3PV for about 7 years now and its never missed a beat. It has been a great radio. He has taken on the MT4S now as having all Sanwa is a bit eaiser rather than having 2 different rx available. Personally I would go for the 4PM (or secondhand 4PV if you can find one, I think the 4PV looks better) as the 3PV is a small radio and not as comfortable in the hand. The 3PV also has an annoying UI where you sdroll through all options to get to what you want, rather than menus. You have radios for a long time, so won't regret it in the long run.
  3. El Gecko
    Huh? Physics is an integral part of our beloved RC hobby. It's what allows the motors to work, suspensions to work, tires to work, etc. Not sure how you can separate the two. I didn't watch the video, so I'm only speaking from my own experience and observations. I don't have any hard data like that, but I made the switch to bearings in one of my old motors in the midst of a round of Racing by Post, and while the individual lap counts for each 5min stint didn't seem to improve much, I noticed a few other big differences. The battery was the same, only now instead of 2.5-ish stints (the pack would dump halfway through the third stint) I could make it fully three stints with a bit to spare. And I noticed more power and more wheelspin coming out of the corners, as well as higher speeds at the end of the straights. As I got more comfortable with it, the motor temp actually stayed similar to before, since I had to be on the brakes more often. But just bashing around, temps are much lower due to the motor spinning more freely. This was an old motor, and the bushings were well worn, as I discovered when I switched brushes initially. While I was breaking in the brushes, no matter what I did, there was always a nasty vibration at certain RPMs which would cause a serious and sudden RPM drop. I got the brushes broken in and tried to drive it like that for awhile, and boy was I surprised when I finally switched it to bearings. It was like a whole new motor, like it had been set free. The bushings were dragging it down, preventing it from reaching its full potential and killing its efficiency. So I started doing the same to all my other bushing motors. It would be nice if Tamiya put bearings in at least some of their motors from the start. I have a new-ish Sport Tuned in another car with a bushing that screams like R2D2 if I don't oil it every run.
  4. skom25
    In terms of RC, I am like a man in the middle of the desert
  5. ad456
    Sounds like a cracking backpack car!
  6. Nikko85
    The RadioShack have a model that works well, it's an almost perfect 1/14 scaled down LB. I will find the model.
  7. Pylon80
    I absolutely loath entertaining tea room physics discussions on our beloved RC car collector's website... it's just not the right place. Worst of all, I started it myself. I apologize for that... The only point I wanted to make but did not make a very good job, is this: Cageman is a good guy and he has made helpful videos comparing various motors and effectively taking the time to experiment a bit in order to answer questions that nobody is typically able to answer, for instance which brushless motor is roughly equivalent to a sport tuned etc. However, if we want to think like engineers, let's think like engineers for a minute. For the RZ bushings vs. bearings comparison, his GPS does not have a decimal point. The runs were not done on the same "session". Only 2 runs were made. The results are further converted to mph and the bogus 7.5% difference becomes "wow, that is 8-9% faster! Quick! Let's buy bearings!". The entire chain of thought should make you smile, at best. Repeatability: let's take that same car and do 10 runs, without changing anything at all. Re-peak the battery if you want between each run. The results will vary up or down by at least 1 or 2 kph, some of it due to your driving, some due to the battery, some due to the motor, some due to the wind, some due to the GPS itself... we can go on and on. "Wow! that is a 2-3% difference!" Display Resolution: the lack of a decimal point means - assuming the GPS does conventional rounding - all results must be interpreted as +/-0.5kph (his GPS is set to kph). There goes another +/-2%... A different take (that of course nobody will try): let's purchase 2 RZ motors ($$), install bearings in one of them and break in both motors the same way. Then do 6 runs, 3 with each motor, swapping the motors back to back. Correct all results to account for the +/-0.5 kph display resolution, average the results for each motor. Now you will obtain 2 numbers, a low and a high, of observed differences. Bonus points: not all motors are the same, so let's swap the bushing and bearings between the 2 motors one more time and repeat the 6 runs test sequence. Then, you might get numbers that can be taken a bit more seriously. The performance improvement could be even higher, who knows.
  8. Mouc-RC
    Fully agreed! I'd say I hugely prefer the QD Monsters to the CW-01s... (would be nice to find a smaller LunchBox body to put on a QD chassis, by the way, could be cool next to a QD Pumpkin )
  9. Badcrumble
    Is it a reversing y cable or do you need one? Edit: something like this? reverser cable I get confused with these set-ups myself! I ended up with a six-channel tx that could manage it at tx level.
  10. Today
  11. Badcrumble
    Yup, just like that @Man1c M0nk3y
  12. Sogogi
    I recommend you try out both in person if you are able to do that.
  13. Sogogi
    Whoa. $499 bruiser sounds awesome
  14. vodka
    Maybe I have an item somewhere, I have to check and I'll let you know.
  15. pijje1
    Hi All Have just recived a Sense ess-one(2017) unit to disassenble and fit in the Capo. But need some help how does one change the sounds as the app does not seem to be on there site anymore. Plus the versoin that is about (v1.6) needs windows 7 whcih I have a old laptop with it on, but when you try to install it doesn't work??? Is there other ways onf doing it in 2024 as have the usb and stuff. This is how it fits in the Capo and is a new optional part. https://www.kaioz.net/public/products/cd1582x/tx/1785.html Many thanks. Paul Sorry if this is on the wrong bit as was not sure is more the software than the electrics as it all works out of the box.
  16. Nikko85
    Thanks, it handles like a smaller, lighter, nimbler CW01, without the bump steer.
  17. chris.alex
    My GF01 now has Absima crawler tyres on Tamiya rims. I think they look better on the Land Cruiser than the original ones. Will see if they perform as well.
  18. JimBear
    I've been trying to get rid of the CR-01 sitting on the bench getting dusty, by setting the electronics today. It's moving around, like an old crab (get can't the two servos to play together correctly - baah!). Half success. Sort of.
  19. svenb
    The dampers or the dickie bird? My lad hand reared him from a week old chick after he was rejected, he has the whole house for myself! The damper cylinders cost less than buying stuff for Frank 🙄
  20. ad456
    That looks a wicked little machine dude!
  21. JimBear
    Now, since Oog seems to have disappeared at the moment, I am trying to sort the electronics alone. Everything is sort of okay this far, except for one thing: with a Y-cable, using a 2-channel TX, I can only get it to crab (somewhat badly too) across the floor. No matter how I set the cables (the two servo cables into the ends of the Y-cable) can I get the front to steer left, and the rear to steer right. Tried every which may with the cables. No luck. On the verge of just trying FWS, just to get the thing running. The two ideas I can come up with is: 1. it doesn't work with 2 channels using the Y-cable or 2. I have placed one servo wrong, somehow upside down or whatever.
  22. Grumpy pants
    These two are good choices as well 👍 https://i.postimg.cc/c4ZH8Pbw/image.jpg
  23. El Gecko
    Not just theory, my motors do run cooler now, with bearings. It's especially apparent on old motors with lots of miles. As @Anthroxoid said, bushings lose material as they wear, so eventually the holes get ovalized or at least enlarged, causing power-robbing and heat-generating vibrations which can't be fixed with lubrication. So a bearing, which runs more true for longer, will cut those vibrations and help the motor run smoother and cooler. And as mentioned, the friction in the bushings creates heat, and a bearing has much less friction, so it will cut even more heat. The reduction of friction is one of the main things that has put many drivers into the winner's circle since the beginning of RC. It helps with all aspects: increased power, increased top speed/RPM, increased runtime, decreased heat, and in fact decreased maintenance (contrary to your pro/con list above). The cheapo motor in my trail truck gets crudded up with mud and snow and sand and dust, and I might've lubed the bearings once in the last 4 years. I think the biggest point I can make here is: do you use bearings on other parts of the chassis? Would it not make sense to have bearings on all rotating axles, including the one that rotates the fastest, the motor? IMHO I'd rather have bearings in the motor than anywhere else, considering some of them can hit 50-60,000RPM. The wheel axles are only turning at a fraction of that RPM.
  24. Kowalski86
    Im a bit mixed on the Mad Van myself, I'm usually not a fan of buggies or monster trucks that are based on touring car platforms.
  25. TamiyaStuves
    Any Top Force users that uses fans? Pics are appreciated. Thanks!
  26. Nikko85
    A quick 10 min blast I've now idea how @Re-Bugged gets such amazing airborne shots, whilst I struggle to take a photo of a simple wheelie!
  27. Nikko85
    Yes, I had not noticed they were the same! I played around with the gearbox, just trying to get it as quiet as my second QD. It's not quite there, so I'll play tomorrow. I'm not sure if it's a grease, mesh, motor or pinion thing, but it seems to squeal more. I also replaced all the screws with 3 mm stainless screws. For most of the screws you can use 12 mm ones, apart from the battery holder side panels which need 8 mm. I also tried out some wheelies. To be honest the wheelie bar is too pushed out, meaning the car doesn't angle back enough, and so the wheelies are quiet short. The original printed design was for the FJ45, where it needed a much longer wheelie bar to protect the bed of the car. I may design a shorter wheelie bar which allows the truck to get much more vertical, which should increase stability.
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