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  2. Thanks @TurnipJF - wonder why this radio issue has suddenly appeared?!
  3. Stock pinion is ok for the sports tuned.
  4. Chances are that it is a radio issue rather than an ESC issue as the TEU-101BK is pretty reliable, but if you do need to replace it, the Quicrun 1060 is the current ESC of choice for brushed motors.
  5. I have a Lunchbox that is stock except for a Sport Tuned 540-I do plan to put on CVA shocks all around....... What is the recommended pinion size (number of teeth) for that motor in that chassis? Thanks for all replies.
  6. So based on the advice from the forum, I think the first thing I’ll try is to buy a couple of new batteries and a lipo charger. Thankfully parts for this car are pretty cheap! It now looks as though another problem has appeared - the ESC is flashing constantly and not responding to anything that I do. So I may just buy a new ESC while I’m at it. Would it be best to buy the same exact model, or is there a better version? @Juggular is that seriously all I need to replace all of the bearings in my car? Just $2 worth of bearings?? That’s awesome! Thanks again, this is the best forum!
  7. It's overkill for most and is kind of pricey, but is a neat toy to have. http://www.mcpappyracing.com/dyno.php
  8. Today
  9. Finally worked out how to fix the fenders. Built up the inside of the wheelarch with 2 layers of 1.5mm strip the coated it in P38. Then rubbed it down square and used Bostik contact adhesive to fix them together. Seem surprisingly strong. Knowing how much it must cost to run one of these rigs in real life I thought I better get some sponsors. Even included a couple of Tamiya ones . Also thinking about a panel around the roll bar for racing numbers and more sponsors. Just ordered a set of number plates BD61 MOG. Leave you all to work it out Still waitng for a couple of bits from Loops to finish the body, Ive even given them top billing !!! Only thing to work on is a possible basic interior + Driver and some head/spot lights? Now I can go play if I dare
  10. Have you checked the grub screw on the pinion? That black screw should be on the flat side of the motor axle. 540 motor axle is cut flat on one side. If the grub screw is not on that flat side, the shaft will turn, but the pinion won't. It would screech then. This is the most common cause of screeching and halting.
  11. Tamiya has pink urethane sponge thingies. But I stopped using them because these are as hard as rubber and they stay compressed, instead of bouncing back. Below is what I did on Bigwig. As @Mahjik said, ball point pen springs may not be as durable. You can use anything that's springy enough to keep it "floating" between two cups, a piece of sponge, styrofoam ball, vacuum tubing, o-ring, fuel tubing cut to about 2-3mm, pencil shavings, ball of cat hair, etc. (I'm not serious about some materials here ) Dog bones work best if they are not jammed to one side. Check if the dog bone moves side to side and has some slop. Usually, gravity tends to move the dog bones to the wheel-side cups. Something in those cups would help push it away just a bit, and keep the dog bone nicely in the middle. If you stuff too much, though, it could bind at the midway point. (if I remember correctly, one O-ring each on both ends of the dog bone ended up binding at mid point of the arm-swing) Anything that would push 2-3mm would be good. (I have springs on both ends so they push against each other to midway point. The springs are tapered, so they can compress down to 2mm. If it doesn't, it will bind) Also check the metal plate @MadInventor mentioned. Hot Shot has a lot of slop in the suspensions, but the ball joints right below and above the uprights shouldn't be sloppy. (don't over-tighten those 2mm screws either)
  12. My Super HotShot has developed some sort of drive problem that we're struggling to figure out. The car has been running perfectly until recently, however we now have a problem where if we lift the car off the ground all the wheels spin fine but as soon as we put the car down there is some motion, the car starts to screech and then nothing more. I've taken the gearbox apart and regreased, checked the pinion alignment on the motor and also rebuilt the front of the 4wd mechanism but still get the same problem. Any ideas much appreciated
  13. Any luck resolving it? I really don't want to go through the hassle of making it a runner just to have it be defective. I'd sooner sell it and save the aggravation.
  14. It's probably the ball joints aren't screwed in fully into the red upright at the bottom. If they protrude slightly the 2mm screws that hold the ball retaining plates in place dig into the wheels. If you look at the inside of the wheel you will be able to tell if this is happening as there will a ring of scratches round the inner part of the wheel. When you compress the suspension, the angle of the lower arm changes and lifts the screws away from the wheel.
  15. Hi has anyone got one of these they will part with? Believe they were ta02 and tt01e
  16. If you want same as the big wig, you will need the long eyelets on the bottom to get the shocks 80mm long. Simple swap though.
  17. Just snapped a top link ball stud on my TXT-2 whilst bashing on 3s!🙄 Axle end so a bit of an issue....☹
  18. New in box Ta07 Pro chassis kit + 8 pieces of Tamiya hop ups. Asking 300 shipped
  19. Ouch! Those chargers are notorious for killing batteries, as they have no way of telling how full the battery is, and just carry on jamming power into it until the timer runs down even if the battery is full to bursting already. Pretty much any charger with a peak detect function will be better than the one you have. If there is any chance of upgrading to lipo in the future, a multi chemistry battery charger would be a good idea, as it can charge many different kinds of batteries including nickel metal hydride and lithium polymer. Personally I like Overlander chargers. This is the one I use: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsr-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-lipo-balance-charger/rc-car-products/408440
  20. As others have already said, the whining noise is caused by the way that the electronic speed controller modulates the car's speed at partial throttle. Although the signal is generated by the speed controller, the noise is actually coming from the motor. Interestingly, the beeps that the speed controller makes when powering on are also created via the motor, which acts as a speaker in a way. For a long time I thought that there was some sort of buzzer built into the speed controller itself, but no, it makes beeping noises by sending high frequency low power signals to the motor, making the armature vibrate at a a pitch that we hear as a beeping sound.
  21. Still hunting guys - anyone know of someone prepared to part with one ?
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