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  2. Only one? This solution (in the video) is very popular but it is not very clean mechanically. It only works because the parts are binding (because of slop basically). The good news is the car does not drive half bad with the stock upper arms. True they are not adjustable, but handling and tire wear pattern indicate that there is nothing wrong with the stock parts. Often people (myself certainly included!) want to remove slop so that the car feels "higher spec" when you behold it when in reality there is no measurable effect on the track.
  3. What an amazing thread, it appears, built just for me haha. What a shame some of the images dont work anymore, and it appears @a.w.k. doesnt post here anymore
  4. I found the same solution here: There is only one issue. On video above, OP uses probably 2.5 mm x 2 spacers on front bumper. Totally is is around 5 mm. I checked 12 mm spacer and angle between upright and front bumper is very steep. I have feeling that suspension will not be free anymore. Any ideas, how it is possible?
  5. Da ich auch einen Tyco Bandit habe bin ich sicher das er noch kleiner ist, eher 1:14. Gruß Zippo
  6. Yes, but I've never seen any Hotshot hubs with Toe. Might have to make them.
  7. Today
  8. Hi, I found interesting solution for TT-02 on YT: It looks like very nice, cheap upgrade. What do you think?
  9. Still waiting on the Plaza Japan order, been told it will arrive on Saturday. Made another from them in meantime for alloy hub carriers with 8 degree caster angle, some toe-ins for rear wheels, a B parts sprue and some other screws. Took another look at chassis and took hex's off to realise 2 of the pins were missing, one on front, one on rear on oppsite sides so may as well order some alloy hex's now instead of just the pins. Bought another Wild Dagger which has had some mods done including alloy shock towers and 95mm Fastrax adjustable shocks with springs that suit body.
  10. So I guess one could use hotshot rear hubs if fitting turnbuckles, since the tops don't much matter? That assuming toed in hotshot hubs exist.
  11. @GermanTA03Guy: Yes, I will See also our german regional group.
  12. This is awesome. What's the scale of these bodies? Around 1/10 or more like 1/12. I've got more cars than I need but something like this is still on my dream list, but all my cars are 1/12 max, so want something that looks scale with the Pumpkin.
  13. I think there is a bit of misunderstanding regarding how tires generate cornering force in this post, and I feel compelled to clarify, respectfully. Tires need a skid angle to generate any cornering force at all - this is how they work. So a car moving in a straight line would have its tires at 0deg of skid angle and the tires would not be generating any cornering force (let's ignore toe and Ackerman for the discussion). When you make a steering input a skid angle will develop and with it, a cornering force. The skid angle would only be a few degrees. In fact all 4 wheels will assume a certain amount of skid angle - the rear tires will do so as soon as the car initiates the turn - and therefore generate a certain amount of cornering force. What is true, is that past a certain skid angle (say, 10deg...) the cornering force does not really increase anymore. It does not decrease; it just stops increasing as you increase the skid angle.
  14. That is an interesting topic and surprisingly one with no definite answers indeed! I researched it for a project where I needed the motor to turn clockwise (i.e. in reverse direction compared to the normal direction found on most Tamiya models). I went in a different direction, using a brushed motor instead. Where I left is that some ESC's have a setting for CW or CCW rotation direction. As far as timing goes, my understanding after some research is that timing from the endbell and timing from the ESC have the same effect and as such can be cumulated, cancel each other out etc. Setting the endbell to 10deg and the ESC to 10deg is the same as setting the endbell to 20deg and ESC to 0deg as far as I know. So if you could find an ESC that supports CW direction and also has adjustable timing, you would be able to make it work. If the motor had adjustable timing you would set it to 0 and use the ESC to get the timing you want. If it did not (for example, fixed timing motor for spec racing stuck at 18deg) you could compensate for that (now reversed) timing through the ESC. I am curious to know if anyone has tried the above.
  15. That's superb looking. Well done. I wish you luck with the postal racing. I hope to try mine for the first time after the rebuild tomorrow.
  16. That looks factory finished. Marvellous job, well done.
  17. Just download the manual and it's easy! When rebuilding an old model in need, I like to print out the manual and go methodically in reverse of the build steps, highlighting and documenting each incorrect or missing part, screw, etc. (Just remember, the printed manual may not be to scale, so measuring the fasteners is essential). Then source all those items before the rebuild, ensuring as close to authentic as possible. Have fun!
  18. My first RC car as a kid was a Tyco Baja Bandit. They've since gotten quite collectable. I debated picking on up but for $500+ for one in good shape I just couldn't do it. Then I started thinking about building one. I saw someone do a build using a super hot shot chassis and thought hey I could try that. I've never done anything custom before though, just some TT02 kits. The Super Hot Shot chassis matches the wheel and chassis profile really well of the original bandit, just bigger. I used some YeahRacing Aluminum wheels to get a closer match to the original look vs the gold wheels that come in the kit. For the body I got a Team BlueGroove King Cab and then custom sized graphics from MCI. The above was all the easiest pieces. Getting the body to fit I knew I could figure out but the roll bar and bumpers were going to be a challenge. I took it as an opportunity to get a 3D printer and started teaching myself CAD in Fusion. I was able to print body mounts and now have prototype of front bumper. I need to male some tweaks but it's coming together. My CAD design of the roll bar is done and I need to start test prints.
  19. I seem to remember having trouble undoing Tamiya blue. I had used an old tube which had thickened like shoe glue. I used on a locking nut on metal frame chassis. I had a heck of time undoing it. I thought I was about to break the bolt. I suppose the strength also depends on how viscous it is at the time of applying it. When it's watery it wasn't that strong. But the point is that thickened Tamiya could be really tough. I doubt that Permatex blue I've used for the past several years could be that strong (breakaway at 115inch/pound). Instead of turning into thick strong glue, Permatex becomes crusty. If you can't use it, you can't glue it. I got a gigantic bottle of Chinese 222 (50ml, as opposed to 5ml). The genuine Loctite 222's max strength is supposed to have break strength of 62 inch/pound. Loctite 243 is supposed to have break strength of 180 inch. If the Chinese 222 should be similar to Loctite 222, it's weaker than Permatex blue. But I haven't tried this 222 yet. Fresh Tamiya blue feels similar to Permatex blue. Based on that, I think it falls between Loctite 222 and 243 (maybe close to 242, which requires about 110inch/pound break torque). But when Tamiya thickens, it might be stronger than 243. Perhaps that's why Tamiya came up with the red gel that does not thicken as easily?
  20. Used as can be seen in photos. Has alloy oil shocks, rubber sealed bearings through out, steering turnbuckles. Has extra long drive shafts at rear and wider hexes to bring wheels further outwards. Aerial removable for running, has mud-flaps and exhausts which are strong enough for running. Body has working front custom made pop-ups (fixed) with front and rear LEDs, just plug into the bind port on your reciever. Also has elastic binds to pull sills inward to give it a better look. Both body and wheels are Rally Legends, wheels scuffed but no cracks and tires are glued and have firm sponges in them. Loads of grip left on tires. No electrics included. Other than that just put in your electrics and go. (One negative which has come to light whilst giving it a look over, one of the C hubs has threaded so lower pin is prone to falling out) Any questions please ask. Paypal and UK only please £125 ONO (not including Royal Mail 2nd class signed for or Pick up welcome)
  21. I printed the mirrors twice. Support removal is a pain, whatever the orientation of the print. Powder base process will be definitely better, with potentially the possibility of relying on polypropylene which would give a lot more flex to the part. The cluster files are already good to go. I also prepared some masks for the windows, I'll probably share the file somewhere (cults3D with the stl files?). Next : clean the body, masking and paintjob. I'm not sure to be able to do this within this week-end. But i'm targeting to have this done soon...
  22. Lancia Delta body and cockpit complete! Taken my time with this one and really chuffed with the result, hoping to finish the chassis and get a final postal racing run in with it by the weekend if weather allows!
  23. Bumper delivery today, Modelsport for various paints, indoor racing wheels and tyres and receivers for a switch to Futaba Tx. Courtesy of Tamiya Club member @Grumpy pants received my first chassis for mini racing, an M-08 complete with phat bodies mini. I’ve also paired that with some martini decals. Still working on my XV-01 so the workbench (dining table) is getting busy 😂
  24. Thank you and thanks for all the positive comments. I took the plunge on Monday and ordered a battery and charger. Pleased to say that after almost 30 years buried in the attic, it started first time and runs very well considering! Luckily, the controller worked too, as it still had a set of 12 Duracell batteries inside and they hadn't corroded! (They still even showed power on the indicator) I've just ordered replacement parts for those I mentioned in my first post. Next job is to start stripping it down to clean it. My biggest worry is remembering where everything goes and which screw is which! The shell is a bit of a disgrace, any tips on stripping the paint and repainting it?
  25. Ah, I had a plan to use TT-02 carbon tower on front and Type S on rear, to have adjustability. Unfortunately, it will not work in that case 🤔 Steering limiter: I am aware that more angle is not better. Current setup seems to be fine. It is much better than in TT-02B which is like a tank
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