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  1. Past hour
  2. vodka
    Maybe I have an item somewhere, I have to check and I'll let you know.
  3. pijje1
    Hi All Have just recived a Sense ess-one(2017) unit to disassenble and fit in the Capo. But need some help how does one change the sounds as the app does not seem to be on there site anymore. Plus the versoin that is about (v1.6) needs windows 7 whcih I have a old laptop with it on, but when you try to install it doesn't work??? Is there other ways onf doing it in 2024 as have the usb and stuff. This is how it fits in the Capo and is a new optional part. https://www.kaioz.net/public/products/cd1582x/tx/1785.html Many thanks. Paul Sorry if this is on the wrong bit as was not sure is more the software than the electrics as it all works out of the box.
  4. Nikko85
    Thanks, it handles like a smaller, lighter, nimbler CW01, without the bump steer.
  5. chris.alex
    My GF01 now has Absima crawler tyres on Tamiya rims. I think they look better on the Land Cruiser than the original ones. Will see if they perform as well.
  6. Today
  7. JimBear
    I've been trying to get rid of the CR-01 sitting on the bench getting dusty, by setting the electronics today. It's moving around, like an old crab (get can't the two servos to play together correctly - baah!). Half success. Sort of.
  8. svenb
    The dampers or the dickie bird? My lad hand reared him from a week old chick after he was rejected, he has the whole house for myself! The damper cylinders cost less than buying stuff for Frank 🙄
  9. ad456
    That looks a wicked little machine dude!
  10. JimBear
    Now, since Oog seems to have disappeared at the moment, I am trying to sort the electronics alone. Everything is sort of okay this far, except for one thing: with a Y-cable, using a 2-channel TX, I can only get it to crab (somewhat badly too) across the floor. No matter how I set the cables (the two servo cables into the ends of the Y-cable) can I get the front to steer left, and the rear to steer right. Tried every which may with the cables. No luck. On the verge of just trying FWS, just to get the thing running. The two ideas I can come up with is: 1. it doesn't work with 2 channels using the Y-cable or 2. I have placed one servo wrong, somehow upside down or whatever.
  11. Grumpy pants
    These two are good choices as well 👍 https://i.postimg.cc/c4ZH8Pbw/image.jpg
  12. El Gecko
    Not just theory, my motors do run cooler now, with bearings. It's especially apparent on old motors with lots of miles. As @Anthroxoid said, bushings lose material as they wear, so eventually the holes get ovalized or at least enlarged, causing power-robbing and heat-generating vibrations which can't be fixed with lubrication. So a bearing, which runs more true for longer, will cut those vibrations and help the motor run smoother and cooler. And as mentioned, the friction in the bushings creates heat, and a bearing has much less friction, so it will cut even more heat. The reduction of friction is one of the main things that has put many drivers into the winner's circle since the beginning of RC. It helps with all aspects: increased power, increased top speed/RPM, increased runtime, decreased heat, and in fact decreased maintenance (contrary to your pro/con list above). The cheapo motor in my trail truck gets crudded up with mud and snow and sand and dust, and I might've lubed the bearings once in the last 4 years. I think the biggest point I can make here is: do you use bearings on other parts of the chassis? Would it not make sense to have bearings on all rotating axles, including the one that rotates the fastest, the motor? IMHO I'd rather have bearings in the motor than anywhere else, considering some of them can hit 50-60,000RPM. The wheel axles are only turning at a fraction of that RPM.
  13. Kowalski86
    Im a bit mixed on the Mad Van myself, I'm usually not a fan of buggies or monster trucks that are based on touring car platforms.
  14. TamiyaStuves
    Any Top Force users that uses fans? Pics are appreciated. Thanks!
  15. Nikko85
    A quick 10 min blast I've now idea how @Re-Bugged gets such amazing airborne shots, whilst I struggle to take a photo of a simple wheelie!
  16. Nikko85
    Yes, I had not noticed they were the same! I played around with the gearbox, just trying to get it as quiet as my second QD. It's not quite there, so I'll play tomorrow. I'm not sure if it's a grease, mesh, motor or pinion thing, but it seems to squeal more. I also replaced all the screws with 3 mm stainless screws. For most of the screws you can use 12 mm ones, apart from the battery holder side panels which need 8 mm. I also tried out some wheelies. To be honest the wheelie bar is too pushed out, meaning the car doesn't angle back enough, and so the wheelies are quiet short. The original printed design was for the FJ45, where it needed a much longer wheelie bar to protect the bed of the car. I may design a shorter wheelie bar which allows the truck to get much more vertical, which should increase stability.
  17. kataplaz
  18. BuggyDad
    May be a candidate for those 1mm narrower bearings. I will give them a try when I assemble mine. It could probably do with the extra width anyway 😉
  19. Mrowka
    Never had a 4WD Tamiya, but my Kyosho reres have proven tough as nails. LiPos and big brushless driven by a nine year old and never a hint of drive train trouble.
  20. Man1c M0nk3y
    Don’t happen to have a link to these. I might be needing something like this soon. Well. If Royal Mail can manage to actually deliver this time. My missing parcel that was supposedly delivered on the 11th was also now delivered yesterday (17th). Not sure how they’ve managed to (not) deliver the same thing twice now mind! Looks like a trip to the sorting office is in the cards. Not that I’ll likely get anywhere. Edit to add. I am assuming it is this or something similar you got @Badcrumble https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQ76Ohh
  21. Grumpy pants
    I’ve got a Beetle NIB waiting on me, be nice to have a couple more to sit alongside it when it eventually gets built. I’ve hovered over the BIN button for the Rampage more than once, alongside the Mad Van as well, but they are bit on the expensive side for me and hard ones to justify when I’ve got more than enough RC sitting idle in boxes 😂
  22. Grumpy pants
    I’m just going to polish any stainless steel or chrome parts that have traces of rust on the still. Shock rods, shock springs, those type of items. If it’s not rusty or black coated I’ll leave it alone 👍
  23. Grumpy pants
    A TC recommendation 👍
  24. skom25
    Are you sure that you need to polish parts, if they are not rusty? Most of them have that black coating, which should not be removed I believe.
  25. Kowalski86
    I don't own any Kyosho re-res, but I am pretty happy with what the Rampage comes with out of the box (aluminum threaded shocks, sway bars, aluminum motor mount, hex screws). Their Fazers feel a little cheap though, they're not far from a TT02D in terms of what you get, very plasticy with no adjustability, but at least it's nylon and hex screws.
  26. KEV THE REV
    The best polish out there
  27. Grumpy pants
    I’ve had good success with this polish -
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