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Tamiya QD resto-mod
Nikko85 replied to Nikko85's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Yes. I often throw in a simple rucksack and take to the park. I use the Turbo RC transmitters to keep it really small. -
The gearbox looks great! Do you think it would be possible to move the spur a bit lower? It might reduce motor movement necessary to adjust gears. It would also move the counter gear a bit higher, further from the motor, so you could add a wall to fully enclose the gearbox. I don't have an M-05 ball diff (I built mine using FF-03 outdrives and Sakura diff gear), but its gear is about the half the width of the stock diff gear. So it's not necessary to modify it, however, keeping the transmission compatible with either TA02 or M-05 gear diff will allow you to use other diff options, like R-evo differential case. M-05 solves this by using plastic bushings that fit 1150 bearings, in the case that gear diff is used. It's part of uprights tree (51393, 51425, 9000815), so it's quite cheap readily available option.
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I just find it annoying that 12 or 13 years ago, I bought two lots of old RC10s: one lot of five cars (two new-built late-production CEs, one new-built early 10T, one nice runner 10T, and one nice runner original World's car, and a couple boxes of rare hop-ups) for $380 and then later a lot of five more (two beat-up B2s, a scruffy runner Team car, and two beat-up 10Ts) for $250. They just weren't worth much then. I fixed up and sold them all off, one by one, for maybe $150 each, except the Worlds car, which fetched $250 if memory serves. Turned a profit, but when I see trashed B-stamp gold pans going for $250 on eBay, and now this new limited-edition re-re for the same price as that first lot, it's a bit frustrating. Not that I'm all that concerned about what those cars would be worth now - though it would be quite a lot - but I regret selling a couple of them, especially that one really nice 10T, and I'll probably never see another one for a reasonable price.
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Wheel base is 210 mm, tracks are 170 mm. Similar Wheelbase than a M-chassis or a Lunchbox, for example... However, the track are quite large. You may need to have larger arms for your MF1-X as well. I may need to think about something for my M06. I don't have a MF-01X at the moment...
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Here is the current state of my rebuilt Hirobos... Now it is time to take care of the others. I'm not building my Hunter Prototype, because I do not want to start until it has a bodyshell. From all the parts I have, there is room to rebuild a 44B Hilux, and I have a bunch of parts that could allow me to rebuild a 44B LWB chassis, with some little adjustments (there will be probably missing transmission components, but I'll know only when the 44B Hilux will be rebuilt). But since I want this 44B Hilux to run, I intend to print all the suspension components and gearbox walls... And for this, I'll use the same principle as done for the front gearbox wall which was a proof of concept: the idea is basically to add elements to the parts to sit them on the bed with proper orientation and to print them with tree supports (no slicer likes when you don't have any surface on the part to stay on, and that's what I'm trying to solve here...). And then this will go within the slicer with tree support, and finally, I'll be able to launch a print... I got all the suspension parts together for both the Zerda and 44B chassis, parted in Common parts, 44B parts, and Zerda parts, and I'll print at least the two firsts plate. And those will be printed in black PETG for the time being (have nothing red except PLA, so I will have to order some red filament, but not sure yet what I can find - no emergency anyway, I want to see how PETG will resist in run for another project).
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I looked at the selection he's selling, and I mean he could just start with one or two 1/10 (or 1/12) classic onroad bodies with say 257 mm wheelbase - just to gauge interest. How big is the Hi-Lux (wheelbase, etc)? Edit: I saw now that it says 210 mm wheelbase, so it could perhaps fit an MF-01x with some nice rims/tyres.
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I found shafts #19804292 which are almost exactly the same as I needed ( less than 1 mm difference). I can confirm, that they are exactly the same in diameter as CVA etc. shafts. I suspect that all shafts are exactly the same, because they also use the same o-rings / x-rings.
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Hi, In tunning guides etc. I found tips about oil in shocks and number of holes in pistons. It is totally clear for me how shocks work, I understand oil and pistons choice. Almost... There is one thing: If I use e.g. 3 holes and 500 oil and 2 holes with 200 oil, will result be exactly the same? This are not proper values, just example to understand rule. I am not sure if there are just two ways to achieve the same effect or there is difference. I thought that piston is "main" setting and oil is for fine adjustments, but I am totally not sure about this.
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I have a lot of cars/bodys waiting to be made, but this audi came in last week and i just had to make it.
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Tamiya QD resto-mod
Mouc-RC replied to Nikko85's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Size of the backpack doesn't matter, the final fun factor is almost the same (yes, I bought a super-nerdy backpack) -
I stand corrected, apologies! Not sure where I got the impression they were different from. Sorry!
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if you like this, you may definitely like the content of my Super Wheelies and Big Bear thread :-) When I started this, I had the vision of the Mitsubishi Jeep as an objective, but @yogi-bear made it even greater :-)- 6 replies
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@Pylon80: In front yes. The rear tires belonged to a (Italian?) niche racing class (4wd & Lola bodies). I could dominate the F1 class in the club for another year with the car in that form. At the end of the year one of my closest R/C friends at that time became member of the second club in Augsburg (TSV1871). As their track was a lot of fun too, I was there more often then. They didn't have a clubchampionship, but hold regional races frequently. That meant the car had to become legal for those more "normal" F1 class rules. The independent front suspension had to leave as well as the high downforce wings. New mandatory pre glued tires meant, that I was a bit narrow in front. With a self designed lower carbon arm in combination with Exotek upper arms, I could widen the front: The rear stayed the same on the chassis side. New were the rear wing and double diffuser. At least the wing was the most powerful legal at that time: The front wing belonged to the same family: Now the car was legal for the series at that time, but wasn't as much fun to drive on the TSV1871 technical track.
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Wow, this is incredible! I love the attention to detail. -
Purchase a NIP hop up shock spring set for the XV01. Nice and cheap £10 delivered 💥
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Testing day today. Great fun! A Wild One was here!
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I still have a Hilux 44B to rebuild, likely with printed parts, and once this will be done, I should be in situation to take a count of the remaining parts to udnerstand what is required to complete another 44B with long wheel base... (so, obviously the overall project is not over, but it is good to complete some part of it)...
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RC gallery (absolutely No words-pics only)
Tamiyastef replied to Nicadraus's topic in General discussions
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@yogi-bear, thanks a lot for this as I'm yet to see someone else than me building this car... If you even do a video build, that would be great :-) Sizing of the stickers were spot on, I had no issue with them. The only issue was the first version of the bodyshell, which made them difficult to apply in the top rear part, but the later version will be fine. And while I think about it, there is still a CJ-7 somewhere on this box that needs to be replaced by something else... And we really need to get the Japanese text reviewed to get it right :-)
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They come off quite easily and take the paint with them. Related to this - I found that masking tape was a good way to lift unwanted PS spray off the outside off the shell…
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Working on the TNX's 3D printed body. It's currently sitting in plastic primer, I'll spray-putty it later today. Up first: tidy up the Ray-cave. It is quite a mess.....
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Lots to do, but until I can print all the parts, I might as well crack on with the box. So this is only reference I have, plus images of other boxes and they all follow a similar style. The first step was to re-draw the logo, that was not too bad, with some editing in photoshop, you can get a better image and then I hand traced it. Because the jeep shares the same basic chassis as other cars, there are many elements I can borrow from other boxes. Luckily @silvertriple had a Golden Eagle box in decent condition and sent me some hi-res scans. So after a couple of hours artwork time, I had an initial layout with partially cleaned up scans from the Golden Eagle box added in, plus some hand blending of the body gave me this.It probably looks better as a smaller file that it actually is. Parts of the body are still badly pixelated and the scans on the side will need tidying up some more. At the time I had done this artwork I was also going to see a demo of a printer I want to eventually get. So this artwork become one of the sample files I use and I printed a test box at full scale. The size I based it on was the Marui Galaxy box I have and it's likely to be very similar to the others. I was pretty happy with this test print, and once I have printed all the parts I can see if I need to adjust the box sizing.- 6 replies
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so the first part was making the stickers. I took screenshots of the 3D model and sized them in Illustrator. From there I used the catalog reference to setup the artwork and adjust. I also checked some of the other decal sheets, for the Eagle and Super Wheelie to get an idea of the lights etc. Silvertriple helped me check the sizing too as at this point I hadn't been able to print a body yet. I printed the decal sheet on some optical clear vinyl using white ink. The sizing is pretty close, but I will refine it once I can print my own body.
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Yonezawa Datsun
Nikko85 replied to Nikko85's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Well the test was conclusive and they conclusively failed. The spines are just too fine for the printed horns, and they quickly just rounded. ...so I had to come up with another solution. The trickiness is that front gearbox and gear lever really limit space. In the end I used the space where the 9V battery would have fit. I flipped a small servo upside down and then made a link to the steering mechanism cutting out a space for the servo and the arm to travel through. I spent a lot of time cutting them neatly, although it can't be seen with the body on, I want it to look like it's come from the factory. Installed. The servo is attached with a sticky foam pad then locked in place. And then from the other side. The arm just fits through. A M4 nut then goes over the white link, locking it in place. I had to fabricate the white link from plasticard. It works perfectly. Full steering lock and very balanced. The metal geared mini servo should be more than enough to turn these wheels. You can also see a second servo which pushes the gear selector. The servo wedged right in place between a post for the PCB and the battery tray. On the open setting it is pulled away from the gear lever which is pulled in place with a spring. When turned on the servo pushes the gear into the second setting. A wheel is on the end of the servo, to ensure smooth transit as it moves along the gear. And it looks cool. The only time the lever is forced is when it is disengaging a gear. All the motion for engaging gears is done via springs, which stops the gears getting damaged. So now I have to wire up the two motors and fit a circuit breaker / push switch on the front motor so that it only turns on the front motor when the gears are engaged. This will be connected to the lever somehow. -
Not sure which BB dampers you have but this might help. In all my recent research on CVA piston rods, I’ve found that most Tamiya piston rods are 3mm in diameter. Buy some cheap digital calipers on amazon.
