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  2. Try it, our lecturer used it to show the effect. If you hold a piece of paper with both hands (in the corners) ,the other end drops down. If you then blow across the top, length wise, the dropped end starts to lift. Agreed, and you'll need to be hitting that kind of speed to be in our top ten, going to have to start thinking about a more slippery body for my off road speed cars! 🤔 I think that's exactly what @stew_mac has done with his TT02, almost 120mph speed run car, layering carbon fibre onto the lexan body (if i remember right?)
  3. Today
  4. And mention the capillary effect when you are going to paint the shell. Probably it will pull some paint through the crack.
  5. Yes they are optional and same as SS , see page 10 of Hilux manual . I have some fitted to mine. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/modalpic.asp?img=toyotahilux_manual_16_200.jpg
  6. I have a Sand Scorcher body waiting to be masked and painted. It's been years now....
  7. A Mid to go with my originals, a Dynastorm and a Jamie Booth Egress please 🤣
  8. Hi guys - lets cut out the 'testing the bad word filters' please. None of them are perfect, but there is a reason they are there and I'm happy to live with occasional false red flags. Cheers Chris
  9. Australian buddy @Max Power has got to be one of the finest Lexan detail painters I have ever seen. His Hornet stripes are second to none! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125442&id=32558 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125444&id=32558 He also did the stock black version, bit I can't seem to find it anywhere.
  10. I'm using ABS function of my Futaba and since then the TL01 handles quite good. Before that, my rear has overturned me on almost each corner.
  11. Hi guys I have recently bought a Hotshot #58047 and because this is not enough I bought a Hotshot II #58062 just a few days later. As spare parts are widely available for the first one and a few for the second one I thought to buy a re-re Hotshot #58391 to donate the parts that I need for the restoration, because it's much cheaper than to buy the parts separate. For some reason it doesn't work for my brain, to buy a new kit and then to build an old car and take all the parts instead of building this new kit. My idea is now to build a fake vintage Hotshot and to take each old part, step by step, compare it with the new kit and replace it when it has no number or special marking and appears to be the same. That means I will end up with a fake vintage Hotshot made from new parts, well almost. I have all the old parts and bras screws that I need and the period correct Acoms radio/servos speed controller, resistors, etc.That's gone be fun :-) it clarifies my question what exactly the difference is, down to the last screw. Once it's finished I will drive it and produce a few scratches to make it look even more realistic. Always wanted to have a Hotshot and I can't wait to start with this project. BTW: It's not my intention to cheat or to declare this as a vintage Hotshot. It is for my very personal fun and it will remain in my collection. This is the wreck with all the known problems of this series but it is almost complete, apart from the rear stabilizer set and the roof. Unfortunately my tires are dyed and I can't use them anymore, the wheels are still pretty good in case that there is a difference. Have already started to dissemble the model and to remove the grease and dirt from the parts, it's really dirty and the plastic is quite brittle at some spots. Weird cables to connect a 9V block (???). . . . . have removed it. Damper are in good working order and the resistors only need to be cleaned and later I will polish them. The new fake resistors from the 58391 are not designed to fit the original carbon/FRP mounts, can't use them. The cleaned vintage upper frame, pretty much the only main part of the old chassis that i'm using. I can't find any number or "made in Japan" on the other parts, bumpers, protection cover. Neither on the front or rear arms. The red plastic seems to be also similar. I haven't opened the gear boxes yet but according to the manual there are no differences in the plastic parts but let's see. The old kit has bras parts, mainly ball connectors which I assume is not the case for the new kit and the dampers are different too from what I could read in the forum. The spoiler comes with a Japanese sticker, maybe was for the Japanese market? Will definitely use three of the old decals on the new body kit, that's one of it (without the arrows)
  12. Some parts for the Top Force. The TA02 high speed spurs and bearing kit from Stella, and the JX servo from banggood. Just the final rcmart order to go. And maybe another rcmart order - reading the instructions for the spurs it looks like the biggest pinion is a 25T. No idea why a 26T won't fit but anything bigger than 25T is crossed off the FDR chart. I shoukd be able to gear for 17.5T blinky though as i'll run modern wheels which are bigger. The JX servos look good for the price. USD13 delivered with decent specs (9kg and .11sec at 6v) and quality appears similar to Trackstar which are twice the price.
  13. Top Force Evo is my pick. All of the components are there already (rcjaz are currently selling a combo with hi caps and carbon chassis set) so its easy to do. Also, I finally have my Top Force so its only logical the Evo will become available. I would like the Dyna Storm too, but that will only be released if I buy a Super Astute. This would be cool, they pop up for sale every so often. I remeber seeing the Yamaha Round the World yacht from 1994 in the LHS in the 90s but thinking the Kyosho Seawind was better. I'll see if the scratch built one ever gets used before buying one though...
  14. ...enjoying the evening view after the ride.
  15. I finally managed to run the Manta Ray at a bmx track that I've been eyeing for a while. I had a blast! It felt like the track was built specifically for buggys, probably also because it's the closest thing to an actual rc track that I've ever experienced. Thanks to my wife's patience, we managed to get some photos and footage. Flying it off those smooth dunes was real fun. Excited before the start... ..and off we go!
  16. A bunch of upgrades for the XV01 I've been meaning to get for quite some time. Went with the Yeah Racing mounts over Tamiya since they were significantly cheaper. Just need a new servo now. I'm thinking a Savox 254MG but I need to measure first since the XV01 has a very tight servo compartment.
  17. Not sure what you mean by blowing across the paper. The ground effect/venturi won't make it lift as you suggest, though. The lower pressure in the expandng section of a venturi can be used for downforce, but won't make a piece of paper lift. There are other effects that will, though. Body design is the only thing that will really affect downforce on a circuit car. It needs to be slippery to reduce drag, and will generate a certain amount of downforce if you set it at a few degrees of nose-down attitude. The wings on the back are for stability more than downforce, but they generate a lot of drag. If you can get it close to the floor then it will help with CoG and handling, but most of the other supposed aero effects are mainly window dressing until you start getting up past 60mph or so. If somebody could fashion a really stiff car shell with proper wheel wells, a sealed floorpan, side skirts that sealed a layer of air under the car, a very low nose, faired-in rear arches, some sort of arrangement to seal the airflow off from entering the front wheel wells when the car was travelling in a straight line (soft brushes?), and maybe a proper aerofoil rear wing, then it might have a noticeable effect on straight-line speed.
  18. Nice paint job. Decals are easy: Dip them in soapy water (fairy liquid soap like the kind you have under the kitchen sink) before applying to body. A few (5-8) drops of liquid soap in a small bowl of cool or warm (not hot) water does nicely. Even very large/long decals can be easily applied this way. No worry about bubbles/creases/curves or slight alignment problems as you lay decal down compared to using regular (dry) methods. Steps If decals are pre-cut, skip this step. Use hobby (Xacto) knife, cut around decal edge as desired. Peel decal from backing sheet and dunk into soapy water bowl. Apply now-wet decal to body (sometimes it helps to use your wet fingers to pre-wet the body before laying the wet decal on it). Basically, the more water the better because it gives you more time to slide the decal around before it sticks. Trying not to press down, slide the decal around until desired position on body is found. If decal starts to stick before final position is found, pull off and re-dunk in bowl and try again. If decal sticks too quickly (does not allow much sliding before it sticks), you may need to add another drop of soap to the bowl of water. You can keep dunking over and over until you get the decal to lay exactly where you want it so do not be afraid to keep trying. I've probably dunked a single decal up to 8 times before finally getting the decal into the position I wanted. Once final position is achieved, press decal down slightly near the center to start getting it to stick. Using fingers, press/slide and slowly squeegee out the water under the decal by rub/pressing from center of decal outwards, making sure that decal does not slide away from desired position during this process. If it does slide off position, pull decal off, re-dunk and apply again. Sometimes I use a paper towel to soak up the water that is coming out from under the decal, especially when pushing water out from inside corners. Take your time getting the water and micro-bubbles out. It can take 5 full minutes of rubbing to get the water out from under the decal. If something goes wrong during this process, usually you can pull the decal off and try again, so don't be afraid to do that if needed. Inside corners should be pressed into place using fingers, a Q-tip, soft plastic stick or wet wood toothpick before pressing down either side to better follow body contours. You don't want to try to "stretch/press" the decal into the corner if both sides are already stuck because it almost always pulls away after a while. Decals don't like to stretch. The decal should be pressed into the corner first so it remains "relaxed", and then both sides can be stuck down after that. Outside corners and sharp edges: A hair dryer on medium can help decals stick better on outside (and inside) corners or compound bends and short or sharp edges. Note: The soapy water does not make the decal stick any less than it would have if it was applied dry. All of my cars built since I learned about this method have had their decals applied in this manner and no decals have lifted or become unstuck, even the models built over 10 years ago. I actually don't mind applying decals because of this method. Previously, I hated applying decals because they never stuck to the exact spot I wanted or were slightly misaligned. No more. Perfect every time. It just takes some patience and time.
  19. Boomerang or Top Force - Watanabe edition
  20. Yesterday
  21. I wonder, as per my post above, if something in the latest iteration of the software is optimised for mobile devices rather than lap/desk-top size devices? As I say, I can edit my posts using my iPhone or iPad no problem (ie. Apple iOS), but on my MacBook everything freaks out - any idea's Chris @netsmithUK? Jx edit. I just edited this post (as I saw I'd spelt optimised wrong), and sure enough, it freaked out - but interestingly, reducing the size of the window has indeed stopped it jumping, and I am here, now, writing to you from my regular keyboard. However, I do notice that the bar at the top of the post (with the font size/bold/italic etc. in) is now all compressed and unaccessible... curiouser and curiouser?
  22. fiddle-diddle-doo... I think I will go on with the brilliand DS design to continue this waveform with the chassis. Hope it will fit...
  23. It's ballraced and has TRF dampers. Currently, it's running a 13t brushed motor. I have a slipper in the front.
  24. It’s ****htening where your mind goes
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