Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. IXLR8
    Yes, new molded parts should be stronger. If you run original molded parts, it's important to keep them hydrated so they don't become brittle. I recall breaking maybe a couple front arm blocks, steering and castor blocks. This happens when one clips a tree or fence post - we have many obstacles in the back yard. Shock shafts and hinge pins can be made from 1/8" round stock if one has access to groove and threading cutting tools. I bought a 3' length from my local hardware store a few years ago and I think it's time to restock. Most RC10 parts are available through aftermarket sources and original parts from ebay (if you have deep pockets). Nearly every RC10 collector will want one pristine example to display and remember the old days. Pristine A stamp pans and front plates are fetching big money these days. If the trend holds, maybe someday I could liquidate my relatively modest collection and use the proceeds to buy a winter home in Costa Rica.
  3. Norco Kid
    Why would this cost almost 20% more than the clear though? I don't disagree that it's a good car, but it really does feel excessive for such a basic kit. Heck you can get an Egress for about the same price. I still want one but I'm hesitant because of the price. I'll either miss out or pick one up once we see a discount it if they're not selling. Can't help but feel that most buyers are considering this an investment and that AE would have made a lot more $$ selling a higher qty at $320.
  4. chris.alex
    Correct, I didn't glue it. With a little patience, the installation of the diff unit was no problem.
  5. Wandy
    Just reading RC10talk and it looks like the RC10T might be coming back too. I assume these parts listed on the AE website are exclusive to the truck?
  6. Frog Jumper
    But based on appearances, like the MSC and the CVA1.0 shocks, I’d say this is an original. ETA: Indeed, looking at the 2015 MB manual at TamiyaUSA, the 2015 Re-Re came with an ESC and CVA2.0 shocks.
  7. Frog Jumper
    There is a way to tell if the chassis is original or re-re. With many re-re parts, there is no way to tell once they are cut from the sprue. ETA: here is the underside of an Original frog. This is the inside of where the swing arm plate mounts. The hole that is unused has no “shoulder” and extra material on the inside. The Re-Re has some extra plastic there forming a shoulder. I wish I had a pix of a Re-Re…
  8. Pylon80
    I agree!
  9. Howards
    These look pretty similar.
  10. Tamiyabigstuff
    Old Skool speed controller so would guess original.
  11. Pylon80
    Indeed the 3.5mm bullet connectors fit perfectly into the back of the TBLM-02S motors. Now I would not know where to source the 90deg/low profile connectors that come with these motors. I have the 3 connectors that came with each of the motors I bought and I hold onto them preciously!
  12. Today
  13. Alex97
    I think they are 3.5mm bullet connectors. The Tamiya motor is just a rebranded speed passion V3 from about 10 years ago.
  14. GTodd
    For sure, all of which you can easily find exceot maybe the drive cups, maybe get a few of thise, that said Ive never worn them out on any of mine but my cars only get occasional use with the kids. Hubs, arms, suspension mounts etc. Ive never broke one on a RC10 and theyve bene ran on 1/8 dirt tracks with brushless/lipo. These were OG stealth cars at that, not new produced stuff. New rere palstics should be stronger.
  15. B666H
    OK thanks so you didn't super glue yours in either then ?
  16. technics
    Made some wheels look more vivid with some paint I’m happy with for the Subaru and the Honda. Made small logos for the enkeis. Not perfect as I noticed an error but it’s enough to please the eye imo. Happy Friday everyone!
  17. okieran
    Hi, I've just acquired this Monster Beetle and have been trying to identify whether it is the original version or the 2015 re-run. Also, if anyone could help me with what battery I'll need to get this this running I would be greatly appreciative (and any other tips!) - this is my first Monster Beetle. Thanks in advance!
  18. Howards
    I mangled one of the little gold bullet connectors that plug in to the can on the Tamiya brushless motors. Does anyone know where to obtain some more, or know what they are called so I can buy an equivalent?
  19. bRIBEGuy
    It might be interesting if they did... on the other hand, I really don't know if there would be a market for them (aside from people buying them for parts for restorations)? While I'm appreciative of what they represented at the time, the reality of these cars in a modern day setting is that they are pretty basic and likely don't really drive well. But who knows, right? Tamiya does surprise us with their releases from time to time...
  20. ThunderDragonCy
    Although i haven't run the car yet, i did also have the first iteration of the M05 transmission made as well. I happened to have the gear shafts leftover from a brief TL01 ownership so i tried putting it together. Gears inserted and motor plate installed. This is first area for revision. It has a boss on it to hold the end of the short gear shaft, but also slots into the middle of the gearcase. This meant a bit of bending and twisting of the plate to get it in, but that would be impossible with a metal motor plate, so that needs a rethink. That said, once installed the gears mesh nicely. After a few false starts and trial fits i got it together with an old FF01 ball diff in there. The M05 gear diff gear i got with the rest of the internals is too wide. It's 21mm vs 20mm for the FF01. Slightly concerned that this won't allow an m05 ball diff to be installed despite designing for the requisite 1510 bearings. Can someone with an m05 let me know how wide the gear diff is please? I suspect this will need changing. Still, it's a decent first look. Need to get some 1510 bearings. I can push some 1050 bearings into them and run the ff01 diff for now.
  21. IXLR8
    While the RC10 is tough as nails, it can wear out over time. My backyard track is very sandy so worn ballcups, hinge pins, drive cups, dog bones, shock shafts, - just about every moving part - are a nagging problem. Even the chassis pan on at least one of my runners is wearing thin. I have actually broken very few parts and it's always been due to driver error.
  22. Pylon80
    @Honza here goes: Front Soft/Black: 1.6mm Front Hard/Silver: 2.0mm Rear Soft/Black 1.3mm Rear Hard/Silver 1.5mm They all appear to be stainless, bare for the silver ones and painted for the black ones.
  23. skom25
    Update: Universals. I really like them, but there is one major flaw: if grub is not super tight, pin will fall out. All parts ready. I used Blue Loctite on grub screw. It is good compromise between strength and possibility to remove screw in future. Do not use stronger thread locker, because you will have problem Remove excess of thread locker which is around grub screw and they are ready to go. I mentioned this before, but I used WD-40 to protect them a bit. I did not use it on that element with thread, because thread locker and oil is not the best combination. I put that tiny red sponges in diff cups, to limit cups movement. Everything is nice and tight. I really like how it looks!
  24. skom25
    Update: Turnbuckles. If you do not know how to do them, you will cry and your fingers will be swollen. If you know how to do them properly, it will be like 20 minutes job for whole car. Tools. - Hand drill - Spare turnbuckle - Turnbuckle wrench - Grease - Caliper I prefer to use spare turnbuckle, like tap. I do not risk that I will damage turnbuckle from the kit, especially if you want to use aluminium version. I like Ball Diff grease, because it is easy to remove after work. About wrench and caliper later. Install turnbuckle into drill and apply good amount of grease. Side with "mark" has right thread, opposite left thread. It mean "clockwise" and "counterclockwise". Screw it to the end, unscrew about a half and screw again. Then unscrew it fully. Now install turnbuckle you want to use into drill and just screw it, as any other screw. It will be super easy that way. Then prepare opposite rod end. Now when you have on rod installed, you can use it as handle. Ready! Wash them with soapy water, to remove grease which will attract dirt. If you want to use wrench which is in Tamiya kits, my advice is: throw it into bin. I have two wrenches, both aluminium. I use Blue only to aluminium turnbuckles, Grey to steel. Why? Because if you use the same for steel and aluminium, it is highly possible that you will damage aluminium turnbuckle. Steel is much harder than aluminium, so after some time you will see some damage on wrench. You do not want use damaged wrench on soft, aluminium part. Of course you can buy steel wrench for steel turnbuckles, but I am afraid that with strange shape of Tamiya turnbuckles, it is possible that it will damage them. I think it is better to replace wrench after some time, than turnbuckles.
  25. GTodd
    No modern 1/10 can take that either. That isn't the context of the discussion. Try better to be a better more contributive member of the forum.
  26. Kowalski86
    So I can take one to the skate park and launch it 50ft into the air?
  27. GTodd
    The RC10 followed 1:1 racing car philosophy, keep it simple. It's almost impossible to break. The turnbuckles are the only thing you need to replace, they bend very easily due to their thin diameter. I've restored 2 old vintage RC10s. One team car and one worlds car. They take modern abuse well, no mods needed to run brushless or lipos. There's a company making perfect replica parts for the OG RC10s called Fan RC. If you actually brake something they got your back. I'll be driving and racing the 4oth, although with a different chassis!
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...