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  2. I don't know if this has been mentioned, but according to Tamiyablog, the SuperClod Black Edition is going to have gearbox halves with molded axle tubes. It's been a while since I've built a Clod, but I could swear the axle tubes were separate pieces that bolted on. Maybe I'm imagining things or just reading into this wrong...or maybe this clod is getting more than just a color change. Here's a screenshot of the article. thoughts?
  3. I'm close too in NZ and would be interested in a few clear ones, probably 4...or 7
  4. I fixed my MF01X: The chassis parts were basically a straight forward swap: I think I discovered the problem that caused it. It was likely a build error. I had used the Yeah Racing ball bearing set and instead of a simple 850 bearing on the shaft it uses one with a flange. I squeezed it in there somehow without noticing that it doesn't really fit with the B2 plastic part. I assume that had enough of an effect to split the chassis part around the screw that holds the driveshaft cover on. I've set the servo endpoints and tomorrow I'll give it a test drive. The dampers might need thicker oil since I'm going to back away from using it as a small trail truck. I'm tempted to turn it into a m-rally car.
  5. Today
  6. Ta. They are the exact same rim covers I have. I was planning on just using Scorcher Tyres but those Vintage ones suit the buggy look very well. I'll keep an eye out now & again.
  7. Brisbane Taringa mate, yep plenty of interest, I know a few others that would be keen as well, the clear version looks the goods.
  8. still trying to work that one out , where are you located? Good to know there is some interest though.
  9. Not sure how soon they will be available as he's still experimenting, maybe shoot him a PM
  10. There must be something in the air this week.
  11. Thanks for the replies everyone
  12. Whats the damage for 1, I need about 40 for my display case, Tamiya, team associated, Yokomo, Schumacher etc. at least he is locally based to me
  13. Finally the animals are approaching one appeared 36 to go.....................
  14. so here's a Lil' Latern i converted and used a 3 watt Feit flicker bulb even used an RC XT60 connector so it can be removed and serviced when needed
  15. Super happy today I've finally build up with nerve and grabbed the dremel to try the friction weld. Thing worked alright and the weld feels strong as if it was a new part. YAY! Thank you @yogi-bear!!! Here's some pictures: I now have to file down the plastic "drops" that came out and then a little sanding and some putty. I am excited. Once I prepare the whole body I'll start thinking about what colors would I like the BIG BEAR to have. You all have a fantastic Wednesday!
  16. I had to look that up, it seemed familiar. At least you decorated the dryer with a nice color.
  17. Hi Mike! Sounds like some frequency interfering with that. What radio are you using your Ninja with? Now BEFORE spending your hard earned cash try another receiver with it if you have another one around. Let us know how that works with your car. Also, check your aerials (both, the one in the receiver and the one in the transmitter)
  18. The A-parts to fix my MF01X Jimny arrived today. I'm still shocked I managed to order them without buying anything else.
  19. I have the FS-i6 (the original, not the X as I didn't need 10 channels and the X was about US$20 more). It works great. I'm using it in a yacht but my son made a tank with dual ESC/motors and it was easy to program to make that work. I think a few others use them as they prefer sticks and I haven't seen any complaints.
  20. Yesterday
  21. And if it sucks in the paint you where just using in the shed at the same time you don’t have to explain the TS41 all over the back of the hair dryer... (or make the job cost $60 more for a new hair dryer....)
  22. I have a 1/14 scale Marui Ninja FD 2wd R/C Car. When switched on in the correct order (transmitter before car), the car motor starts working immediately, and the transmitter operations seem erratic and variable. The front wheels respond to the steering, but keep moving back and forth slightly when steering input is stopped. Forward speed doesn't vary with the controller, and reverse input will eventually bring the driving wheels to a stop, but not reverse. Can anyone offer assistance? The local r/c shop had a sharp intake of breath (!) and suggested it needed a new receiver board, new steering servo, new battery box, and that a new car would be far cheaper. Thanks in advance, Mike.
  23. To my understanding most people yours truly included use cyanoacrylate super glue to attach the outdrives to the diff. Just construct the ball diff first without glue and once ready, install bearings and finally glue. Be careful not to glue the bearings to the shaft. Without gluing, there is a tendency for the diff outdrives to move just enough for the spines to get destroyed.
  24. Flysky FS-GT5 on banggood try coupon code AFFBG10 to get a further 10% off...
  25. nice! ..for the clear acrylic, one can also build a base with LEDs, then cnc'd/vcarved, and voila!
  26. On the top force its applied to the spines of the diffs drive cups.
  27. Thats a nice trio you have there... I'm coming around to the idea of them. J
  28. where and on what are you supposed to use it. Rubber cement to me is either tyre repair contact adhesive or Copydex style glue?
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