Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. skom25
    Thank you. I think I will go for 4PM, just to not regret that again I bought low end radio. I am 80% sure for now. I am still open for comments and opinions!
  3. bRIBEGuy
    As per your other thread: I own a 3PV and 4PM (and a 10PX). Out of the three the 4PM is the one to buy, unless you have a specific reason to choose otherwise. I bought the 3PV for my daughter, as it was well regarded, and notably lighter and smaller than most radios. Compared to the 4PM, it feels cheap and basic, and the user interface is a nightmare compared to other Futaba's. If I had seen one in person before I ordered it, I honestly would have just let her use her old radio a bit longer, and then sprung for a 4PM. That being said, in function it works fine, and I can't tell any "speed difference" between the 4PM and 3PV in actual use. Not that it would matter in a Midnight Pumpkin, SW01, or trail truck... The 4PM feels nicer, is easier to use, and has a lot of features I don't typically use... but might someday. I'd rather buy something a bit nicer now (if I have the cash) than have to re-buy down the road. I personally look at a TX as an investment in the hobby more than as a consumable item cost.
  4. skom25
    Update: Shocks disassembled, washed, dried and ready for assembly. One shaft from front shock was damaged after crash, so I will use shafts from CVA shocks. They are shorter, so I have to use o-rings inside rear, to adjust travel. I hope I will not make mistake and end up with correct suspension setup. I am also not sure, which springs and oil I will use. Shocks will be mounted to towers bit differently than in stock version. It will be solution like in TRF cars. As bottom mounts I will use... 5 mm short adjusters. I found they are cheap and have exactly the same dimensions as mounts form shocks sprues.
  5. skom25
  6. wtcc5
    @Chris.B: Yes, foam tires gave this class a massive boost. ETS might vary, but in my region F1 is rare, especially on practice events. If you make a race with a F1-class, you have 50 entries for touring car and 1/12 with three F1 drivers. The season continued and I was very happy with the car. If I remember correctly, I became club champion in that year. For the next year I tried more things. From my old AE touring car, I stole the front suspension and installed it on a carbon plate and then on the F104 chassis: Even with anti-roll-bar: The front end was fantastic now, but the rear needed more grip. You can see it in the next picture. I made a large multi story rear wing to fit between the rear tires (which became huge): You can also see the rear motor. As the motor had no regulation in our F1-class, I switched to a 10.5t Later I removed the huge tires and exchanged them for 30mm touring car foam tires. Therefore a wider F103GT axle from YeahRacing was installed. I also wanted to change the outfit and fell in love with the Brabham BT45 body: I remember that body with the large tires being oversteery, but looking great on track.
  7. Alex97
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332599736864?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KLXIDDUuTtW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=pflrb5mospu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY That should save you a few quid.
  8. GTodd
    I agree they won't be discounted , id be surprised if AE doesn't just make what gets pre-ordered. Due to the cough cough Pandemic and the current Potato for an American President (I'm American), the world's economy is a faaaaar different place. Fuel costs alone justify the cost increase.
  9. Today
  10. GTodd
    The plastics cost more, compared to the clear fragile parts on the CC. Where can you buy a NIB Egress for 320?
  11. Wandy
    I'd wager that these will never hit discount. They will match the supply to meet the demand. They won't make the same mistake that they made with the Worlds re-release 10 years ago Here in the UK it seems that the allocated stock might already be sold out. I wouldn't mind having one of these, just for the stamped & laser-etched parts and the unique box. I don't really have a problem with the price but it is a bit galling, when I paid less than £150 each for two of the classics in 2013.
  12. IXLR8
    Yes, new molded parts should be stronger. If you run original molded parts, it's important to keep them hydrated so they don't become brittle. I recall breaking maybe a couple front arm blocks, steering and castor blocks. This happens when one clips a tree or fence post - we have many obstacles in the back yard. Shock shafts and hinge pins can be made from 1/8" round stock if one has access to groove and threading cutting tools. I bought a 3' length from my local hardware store a few years ago and I think it's time to restock. Most RC10 parts are available through aftermarket sources and original parts from ebay (if you have deep pockets). Nearly every RC10 collector will want one pristine example to display and remember the old days. Pristine A stamp pans and front plates are fetching big money these days. If the trend holds, maybe someday I could liquidate my relatively modest collection and use the proceeds to buy a winter home in Costa Rica.
  13. Norco Kid
    Why would this cost almost 20% more than the clear though? I don't disagree that it's a good car, but it really does feel excessive for such a basic kit. Heck you can get an Egress for about the same price. I still want one but I'm hesitant because of the price. I'll either miss out or pick one up once we see a discount it if they're not selling. Can't help but feel that most buyers are considering this an investment and that AE would have made a lot more $$ selling a higher qty at $320.
  14. chris.alex
    Correct, I didn't glue it. With a little patience, the installation of the diff unit was no problem.
  15. Wandy
    Just reading RC10talk and it looks like the RC10T might be coming back too. I assume these parts listed on the AE website are exclusive to the truck?
  16. Frog Jumper
    But based on appearances, like the MSC and the CVA1.0 shocks, I’d say this is an original. ETA: Indeed, looking at the 2015 MB manual at TamiyaUSA, the 2015 Re-Re came with an ESC and CVA2.0 shocks.
  17. Frog Jumper
    There is a way to tell if the chassis is original or re-re. With many re-re parts, there is no way to tell once they are cut from the sprue. ETA: here is the underside of an Original frog. This is the inside of where the swing arm plate mounts. The hole that is unused has no “shoulder” and extra material on the inside. The Re-Re has some extra plastic there forming a shoulder. I wish I had a pix of a Re-Re…
  18. Pylon80
    I agree!
  19. Howards
    These look pretty similar.
  20. Tamiyabigstuff
    Old Skool speed controller so would guess original.
  21. Pylon80
    Indeed the 3.5mm bullet connectors fit perfectly into the back of the TBLM-02S motors. Now I would not know where to source the 90deg/low profile connectors that come with these motors. I have the 3 connectors that came with each of the motors I bought and I hold onto them preciously!
  22. Alex97
    I think they are 3.5mm bullet connectors. The Tamiya motor is just a rebranded speed passion V3 from about 10 years ago.
  23. GTodd
    For sure, all of which you can easily find exceot maybe the drive cups, maybe get a few of thise, that said Ive never worn them out on any of mine but my cars only get occasional use with the kids. Hubs, arms, suspension mounts etc. Ive never broke one on a RC10 and theyve bene ran on 1/8 dirt tracks with brushless/lipo. These were OG stealth cars at that, not new produced stuff. New rere palstics should be stronger.
  24. B666H
    OK thanks so you didn't super glue yours in either then ?
  25. technics
    Made some wheels look more vivid with some paint I’m happy with for the Subaru and the Honda. Made small logos for the enkeis. Not perfect as I noticed an error but it’s enough to please the eye imo. Happy Friday everyone!
  26. okieran
    Hi, I've just acquired this Monster Beetle and have been trying to identify whether it is the original version or the 2015 re-run. Also, if anyone could help me with what battery I'll need to get this this running I would be greatly appreciative (and any other tips!) - this is my first Monster Beetle. Thanks in advance!
  27. Howards
    I mangled one of the little gold bullet connectors that plug in to the can on the Tamiya brushless motors. Does anyone know where to obtain some more, or know what they are called so I can buy an equivalent?
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...