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Hi, I need your help, but first quick introduction. I crashed my TT-02B with aluminium shocks and unfortunately, one shaft is damaged. They are not available in my area, so I decided to use shaft from standard TT-02B. No big deal, because I will run it on asphalt, so I do not need much travel. Now main issue: To keep balance of the car, I need to know, what is the length from the bottom of the REAR shock to the end of the shaft in stock TT-02B. I need this information, to know how many o-rings put inside, to limit travel. Is there anyone who can measure this? I am afraid, that I do not have any spares to check
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Update: I started with Carbon Shock Towers. Front was damaged after crash. I found small crack on the Top on probably chipped piece on one side. There is only one way to fix it: CA Glue. I put two layers of glue. My method is to put drop of glue on the edge/ chip and then spread it with toothpick. When it dried, I sanded edges using abrasive sponge #1000. Then I polished both towers with Tamiya Polishing Compound ( Coarse and Fine). I did this just to refresh parts a bit, not to remove all scratches. It does not make sense in runner. As you can see above, it is very easy to make edges Shiny. I do not like this effect, because it shows all imperfections. I prefer Semi Gloss finish, so I used sanding sponge #1000 once again. Then I installed both shock towers. I used conical washers but I am not sure if I like them. They are nice, but I have feeling that there are too many of them. I also added adjustable turnbuckles mounts. Nothing special, everything as in manual. Uprights. Too have the most secure connection and easy maintenance in future, I used screws and ball nuts. Just screw them through parts and use ball connectors. Then I installed uprights. To remove slope, I used: Front: 0.5 mm spacer + 0.2 mm shim Rear: 0.5 mm spacer + 0.3 mm shim Front is perfect: no play and upright is still totally free Rear was bit more tricky. At beginning, I used 1 mm spacer, but it was bit too tight. Probably 0.9 mm would be perfect. Then I switched to combination mentioned above, but there is tiny bit of play. Of course, I can still add 0.1 mm shim, but during maintenance it will be a horror. I prefer to have minimal amount of slope, than one more shim. Be aware, that I used new and used parts together. If you use only new parts, it is possible that my solution will not work for you. Of course, I used stainless shafts, because they are so much better than screwed standard shafts. Them I installed adjustable turnbuckles. On rear I used 3x32 turnbuckle as in manual. On front, I used 3x22 instead of 3x28. Why? Because with 3x32 there will be almost no space for adjustments, and 3x28 is not available in aluminium version. If you will run only on asphalt or not demanding Off Road, that combination will be perfect. If you have plan to jump etc. stick to 3x28. I will prepare separated Post, how to prepare turnbuckles quick, easy and without pain. I know that for some of you, it is annoying part. I think the same, but I finally found good method and I am able to prepare full set in around 20 - 30 minutes.
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If you do it on canvas ... just to give an example: we have one 70x70 cm print of a flower on the wall. It's a part of a scan from a print, itself from a part of 24x36 mm film negative ... Compared to what you get from a camera or phone todsy, it's nothing. Doing glossy prints in poster sizes is going to need more photo quality, but at home (unless you happen to live in a castle) print sizes and viewing distances gives you options even with todays' low-end euipment.
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If I wasn't sold on the Kyosho Turbo Scorpion already, it would make me buy two (if I had the money).
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I've cut the sidewalls off a set of used slicks and pushed them inside the warmers. That fills out the space and allows the heat to be transferred into the smaller tyres. I wasn't really sure they were necessary - the few times I raced without them, I didn't really notice much difference in initial grip. I did M-chassis and FWD back in 2022 and it was too stressful, I like that I've got well over an hour between each round to get my car sorted and grab a drink before having to rush out again. Come say hello if you see me at Carlisle or Broxtowe
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CR-01 resto build
JimBear replied to JimBear's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
@Badcrumble - me being the resident village idjit, I did just assume that any sort of Y-cable would do ... perhaps not, then! I had no idea, so I just bought a Yeah Racing Servo Y-cable, like this one: https://tamico.de/Yeah-Racing-Servo-Y-Kabel-blau-150-mm-JR-Futaba-Plug I ended up as you, ordered another TX (7-channel). - Today
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CR-01 resto build
JimBear replied to JimBear's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Double post -
These cheap bearings are ok however they are filled with quite a thick oil which means they aren't the smoothest however definitely better than a bushing.
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Oh nice bodywork. I’m subbing to see how you make out and congrats on getting the RC disease!
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My vote for a lasting 4WD to keep around is for the regular Optima Mid. I’m not brand loyal but if you’re going for an older design to keep around the ‘22 Mid is fantastic. I’d say probably the only critical modification that it needs for rough running is one of the various undertrays in order to help it plane over grass clumps and keep the crap out of the chassis, but they are great runners and fun to build. Maybe a HotShot II would be my second pick as long as I was allowed to put enough power into it to make up for the drag in the drive train. I like the way that Hot Shots drive on smooth surfaces but they kinda suck in the rough without making the suspension work better. The tires are also a great mixed terrain pattern. PS—you should build a fancy Tamiya kit when you are presented with thst opportunity. They’re a different kit style entirely compared to most Kyoshos and that adds to the novelty. I don’t want to state the obvious though perhaps this isn’t talked about often in vintage forums, but you can control the pitch of your car “in flight” with the throttle. Punch it forward and the acceleration of the tires will lift the nose up, and similarly, if you’re banking to one side in the air, try steering the wheel while the tires are still spinning and you can level the car out for a smoother landing on all fours which is basically the same gyro effects that motorbikes use to do wild tricks.
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Rush plus Tamiya wheels is just on the loose side. I'll try to take a picture. I was hoping someone had tried that combination before I permanently glue the tires.
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No experience with them, but seems better for wheels that we like than Ride. They are Ø47mm, so the rim drops straight into the tyre and no glue in the world can fix that . I normally bend the bead up a little wuthe the thumb and apply a det of CA. Normally 4 dots each side.
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Pretty cool video from AE.
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Its right in line with other quality rere. Its a good price for 2024.
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'89 IFMAR Worlds, Tamiya (plus BF8/9 parts)...
Thommo replied to Saito2's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
And....... according to Tamiyabase Astute release date is 3rd September 1989 so officially released only 2 x days before the event. -
Egress black vs Egress 58583 (2013)
RyantheRed replied to RyantheRed's topic in Re-Release Discussions
Since im not gonna use all the decals and paint it like the box, i should have done the same thing. I basicly wanted the box i guess 😂. It will probobly be smashed up when it gets here... The avante motor made here today. Im guessing the egress will take weeks. I can swap the rotor and test/tune that while im waiting. I have some big plans for how this car will look. It should be a fun build- Thats what everyone says anyway. Im excited. -
2-part epoxy seems to be holding up so far. Won't declare victory prematurely, but I'm not buying new parts just yet either. To be honest, I now recall that that thread wasn't holding properly when I built it. Note to self: next time I think "Nah, it'll be fine"... No, no it won't, fix it now.
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Egress black vs Egress 58583 (2013)
Anthroxoid replied to RyantheRed's topic in Re-Release Discussions
Well hey, the friendly FedEx ninja stopped by and left a large parcel on the front porch. Seeing as it contains a regular 2013 Egress Re-Re I cast my vote as this being better than the Black since I don’t have the latter in the shop -
Another good mail day! Some misc stuff and a avante special motor for the Egress! -That was fast, it beat the egress here. Seems like i ordered it like sunday. Ill have to check... ryan
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The price is not bad really as well the clear is 319 and this one which looks nicer is only 60 more.
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Minor after-bash repairs and adjustments to the trophy truck.
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I'd like to ask if even the pinion gear shaft is interfering with the original gearbox cover?
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I'm an incurable Jeepaholic. I bought this FMS-ROC Hobby 1/6 scale Jeep a couple years ago and although I like driving it, it’s always seemed a bit too slow for me – it’s truly a “Crawler”. So today I replaced the FMS-branded 35t 550 motor with a peppy little Traxxas 20t 540 unit. Now, it’s fast enough to fling payload out of the trailer… … but not quite this fast. I’ve also taken some time today to do a little research. Please pardon me while I geek-out on a little Jeep history. The US Government’s contract to produce Jeeps was awarded to Willys-Overland Motors and Ford Motor Company in 1941. The Jeep’s design actually belonged to Bantam USA (they won the design contest) but the US War Department’s daily production requirement greatly exceeded Bantam’s manufacturing capacity (they employed 15 workers at the time) so manufacturing rights were handed to Willys and Ford. Of the roughly 647 thousand WWII Jeeps, about 277 thousand were made by Ford. Anyway, during war-time production, Willys' Jeep was known as an “MB” while Ford's were called the “GPW” (G=government, P=wheelbase code (80”), and W=Willys engine design). This FMS RC model is marketed as a “1941 Willys MB”. Early Willys Jeeps included a multi-part grille (similar to the original Bantam’s) that was constructed from flat stock – they are called “slat grille MBs”. Since the Willys grille was (needlessly) complex, Ford suggested a much simpler-to-make single-piece stamped steel part (it featured 9 slots), the Government approved the design change so all Fords and post-‘41 Willys featured the new stamped grille. This FMS model includes the 9-slot grille so it cannot be a ’41 Willys but it could be ’42 or later. But there’s more. There are a few subtle differences between Willys' MB and Ford's GPW; The glove box door and speedometer markings to name a couple. This model actually includes the projected glove box door and speedometer marked in 1 MPH increments which were featured in the Ford GPW. The MB's glove box doors were flat and speedos were marked in 10 MPH increments. So why is FMS calling this a “Willys MB”? Probably because most fans of the Jeep have always associated it with Willys-Overland; it’s a "Willys Jeep". Also, since Willys-Overland Motors no longer exists (the company became defunct when it merged with Kaiser in 1953), this saves FMS licensing costs. I’ve also learned that: “Jeep” is not slang for GP “GP” does not mean “general purpose” and “Willys” is pronounced “will – ess” not “will – ease”. Okay, most of this will appear on Monday's exam. I hope you were taking notes.
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The tops are different BUT the rere Terra Scorcher are the exact same dimensions.
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Look, I love Tamiya that said AE does not need the spare support that Tamiya does. You aren't going to brake anything. It's a vintage rere you can get ANYTHING online.
