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  2. Shaw these decals last week while on eBay and thought their unusual so ordered them along with some tyre decals for the bruiser. Stuck them on the reefer trailer.
  3. I'm beginning to feel really sorry for your Lunchbox. I mean, it sounds like you're having fun, but man, that poor little thing...
  4. The fact that it is bleeping suggests it is throwing some sort of error. From what I can see on the HW manual, there are only two possible error conditions - low voltage and thermal protection. The manual suggests that a red light will blink under these conditions. However, as good as Hobbywing products are, their manuals are pretty poor - so there might be other issues going on. Are you using NiMH or LiPo batteries? If you are using NiMH, are you sure the LiPo cutoff is disabled? NiMHs may drop below the LiPo cutoff voltage during normal use, particularly when they are under high load. IIRC the Boomerang has a closed chassis, so the ESC will run hotter than in other cars. Depending on how sensitive the thermal cut-off is, a few seconds might be just enough to dissipate excess heat. Is the Boomerang geared correctly for the 15T motor? Does the drivetrain move freely? Putting too much load on the motor will cause excess the in the ESC. Is the motor and batter wiring in good condition, not kinked or split or burnt, are the battery and motor connectors clean and connecting properly? A bad battery connection may reduce the voltage reaching the ESC causing it to cut out. Do you use the same radio system in all your other cars? Are you sure the handset is configured correctly with its trims, endpoints, etc in the default place? It doesn't sound like a trim problem but it's worth double-checking. You say you have the same combo in other cars - do you use the same batteries in the other cars? Of course there is always the possibility that you have a bad ESC. Since you have multiples in other cars, it might be worth swapping ESCs. If the problem persists in the Boomerang then there's something specific to the car (motor, gearing, cooling, radio configuration); if the problem transfers to the other car then it's a duff ESC.
  5. Also, it jumps much better with the front bumper off
  6. Sooo, when I jump my lunchbox rere up curbs, the front bumper hits the front wheels, so I took it off. Anyone else having this issue? When I have a chance I’m probably gonna dremel some of the corner off, is that a good idea? TIA!
  7. Does anyone know if spare body parts were ever made available for the Quick Drive models? I've got a QD Beetle whish is missing it's headlights - Only a small detail but its driving me mad trying to find replacements - I'm even considering using a pair from an M-series Beetle despite not actually knowing if they are the right size or not. I would have thought that with the release of the GF01 Beetle, spares would be available, but no dice apparently
  8. He is 9 and has a double blaze but wants a road car thanks for advice will give him tlo1 and get shot of the m02 ty
  9. Today
  10. 220 Euro is a lot of money for all these plastic parts
  11. Kinda Disapointed with the plastic centre driveshafts, but i guess Traxxas have been doing it for years, chances are it'll be more than tough enough. Although I wonder about what they will be like with mud in them..
  12. More pictures uploaded to Tamiyablog. Tamiya Blog CC-02 Chassis pics
  13. TL01 is four-wheel drive and slightly bigger, so will be easier to drive. Most modern 190mm touring car bodies will fit. M02 will be rear wheel drive and has a more primitive monoshock suspension design. Parts are also harder to get hold of now. Harder to drive. Uses "M-chassis" bodies which are typically smaller cars in 1:10 scale or larger cars in 1:12 scale; wheelbase depends on how the M02 has been configured (it's adjustable, using interchangeable spacers). Depending on your nephew's age, my advice would be to give the TL01 to a younger driver and keep the M02 for a restoration or a quick ebay sale.
  14. No thread but here is the truck. TL-01 chassis, TLT wheels, crawler motor, locked diffs, oil shocks. Not a particularly capable crawler but it drives the trails OK. One day I'll get around to rebuilding it over a proper scaler chassis. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=100463&id=15729
  15. looks to be using the FRP plastic, It wouldn't surprise me, the layout doesn't look built enough to be regular tamiya plastic. There is alot of different grades of FRP Tamiya uses, from only slightly stiffer to very stiff. Remains to be seen when we get them in hand what the flex is like, but a little flex in the chassis for a crawler probably not a bad thing. But i can't see how they could use the same plastic as the CC01, it'd be floppy and uselessly flexy.
  16. Hey all, annoyingly this is my third thread in less than a week, lol. Problems seem to be popping up more often than usual. This time, I have a problem with a brand new Hobbywing Quicrun 1060. The 1060 is coupled to an HPI Firebolt 15T motor, and this particular setup is in most of my R/C cars and they all without issues... except this one, of course. The 1060 is currently in a Boomerang, and every now and again, 1060 will cut out, seemingly for no reason. It'll beep, won't move, then beep again a few seconds later and can now move. But then it'll beep again and so on... sometimes, I can't move an inch before it cuts out again. I believe all the batteries are fully charged, the 1060 can easily handle 15T motors (12T limit), there is no thermal cutout going on as it'll barely move for a few seconds before the cut off occurs. The steering servo still works, so it couldn't be a receiver or battery issue (I assume though). I have noticed (I think) it seems to happen more often if I'm reversing then shove the stick into forward, then it cuts off. It also seems to slow down the overall speed when reversing, then after the cut off, reverse speed is faster again. I cannot fathom what is happening. As I said, I have multiple cars with the same ESC and motor setup (including my new Hot Shot) and they all function perfectly fine. Have never had any cut off problems with them. Does anyone with experience with the Quicrun 1060 have any ideas as to why it would cut off over and over again for, what I can tell, absolutely no reason??
  17. Lol thanks for ure help am thinking mayb restoring this or sell it and stick to modern stuff
  18. A thread is a forum topic, e.g., you started a thread on "just bought loft find". The entymology of the word probably has to do with world wide web, just guessing on that last bit...
  19. I'm new to this what's a thread mean
  20. Thanks for help can't decide if I let my nephew have this or m02 don't know which is better ty
  21. Could it be that the plastics used in CC02 are FRP plastic? Seems strange on the close-ups.
  22. I am intrigued, Is there a thread on this one?
  23. you're welcome I managed to get mine for £9 on sale so my beer reserves weren't unduly depleted One issue with them is that the solvents etc do attack the plastic sheeting over time, so they look like they have leprosy after a year or so. I tried a cheap DIY alternative made from 1/4" thick plastic corrugated boarding (like that stuff used for "For Sale" signs) - again discovered in the tips page on here - all held together with gaffa tape. That works fine too, although it's a little wobbly at times, so it needs some work. Cardboard box will work well, but wipe the inside well with a damp cloth to collect as much loose fibre first. It tends to shed a bit of fibre and the spray circulating inside will disturb it. Oh, and warm up the cans in hot (but not boiling!!) water first - this will give you a finer spray. Again, get them nice and warm, not hot. I'd always recommend using the same brand of paint/primer/gloss - one less thing to worry about.
  24. @Apollo11 I don't know if I ever covered it in the vid but my problems early on had to do with the incompatibility of the different kinds of paints, Eg, Urethane Enamel(which was the custom mix) and the Lacquer primer. Tamiya TS spays are to my knowledge all lacquer based, Which is great because they go on thin, dry quickly to a hard finish and are durable. To answer your question, yes, thin coats always to avoid runs. Keep it clean and keying the surface (green Scotch-Brite pad) aids adhesion as well. For those that didn't know, those 3M scotch pads come in 5 colors with 5 levels of abrasive. Quality auto store should carry them, worldwide I would presume... because 3M.
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