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  2. Pylon80
    A long shot, but I thought I would ask... Has anyone tried to fit Rush tires onto Tamiya wheels? I bought the Rush 36 "round type", the rubber feels very promising, nice and tacky. But then they seem very loose on the m-chassis 11 spoke wheels I am debating pushing them sideways to help the tires conform to the rim while the CA glue sets, or trying to source Rush wheels, with uncertain offset and compatibility with the current car and body that I have. Thanks!
  3. Saito2
    You should check out RC10Talk. They really seem to be into RC10s over there . Seriously though, its a bottomless resource for all things RC10. To answer your question, Sabula Tech has a couple vintage options including the Jammin' Jumper body I've been contemplating for my Graphite Team Car.
  4. Re-Bugged
    * One of those ‘Double post’ phenomenon*
  5. Re-Bugged
    Practice practice practice 😉 Pistol & trigger controllers certainly help as it’s easier to drive with just the left hand so the right hand can take (literally) hundreds photos on burst mode to get a couple of good ones. I had to re-learn a bit once Apple changed the burst mode from a simple hold the button in to drag it left a bit and hold. I think it’s possible to take still’s from a video clip but I haven’t tried yet. Love that Big Foot of yours by the way 👍🏻
  6. naturbo2000
    @Mad Ax - just saw your rig briefly on the Popalong Mendip coverage. Looks sweet. Well done for getting it finished in time!
  7. Today
  8. Frog Jumper
    Maybe so maybe not. Ive had my Sanwa MX-V for many years and it hardly gets used bc its impossible to find new Rx units for it. I went for s cheap FlySky to replace it as my daily Tx. It qas cheap and so I won’t care when it goes obsolete.
  9. Kowalski86
    The way that I see it, the limited release gimmick is in line with Thunder Tigers "race-grade" stuff. Build something nice, offer weak parts support ,and discontinue it rapidly so they can sell you the next maguffin, and everyone can gobble up the old parts. This both ensures that Thunder Tiger won't have spare inventory sitting around, and it keeps people buying their new products, either because they need to be competitive or because they missed out. It's the smartphone system, and afaik it began under Thunder Tigers ownership. This is also one of the few ways for Team Associated to build hype for their brand outside of the racing-realm. I can only assume that their "bashers" aren't selling too well.
  10. ThunderDragonCy
    Yes, i did. The silver ones that scuffed up super easy were those. They do fit on the three point mounting, and that works with modern axles. No bother. White ones will be fine.
  11. BuggyDad
    Ooh yes. It's got the full trodden on (just kidding. Sorry! 😉) Hotshot look! Looks great. Hey have you tried the Hotshot wheels for 2.2" tyres from JCR? Were they the gold wheels you scuffed up too easily like I did my silver pepperpots? I think I'm going to get some for my Boomerang but they'll be white. I think they come with the vintage style three point hubs but I guess such things are a direct fit on modern axles anyway.
  12. ThunderDragonCy
    Some 3D printed bits arrived, and i think we are onto something. Reworked rear tower, and a front cage mount Quick look see with my Hotshot 2 bits I think it's got enough potential i am going to get a Super Hotshot body and see how it goes.
  13. ThunderDragonCy
    These arrived from PJ Unfortunately the +2mm eyelets didn't do enough. I tried a few different things and none of them resulted in ride height more than about 4mm, and hardly any droop. Just trying to figure it out i put the long eyelets (so +6mm from stock) on and it sort of worked. IItsway too much droop, and i can only just get it down to 6mm ride height, but it's better than either of the shorter options. I gave definitely done my maths in the CAD wrong somewhere. I need to get this back to the shocks mounted to their own eyelets on the tower and put the +2mm back on, then keep unscrewing them until i get what i want. Then work out how much to revise the shock tower. Still, at least with the long eyelets i can fire it up and run it a bit. At least the rear seems right.
  14. BuggyDad
    It's fair to pull apart the accuracy of the experiment but in the absence of a better one I think it's also still fair to take its conclusions as a reasonable result even if the extent of the difference could be exaggerated (or underestimated of course - it goes both ways) and so one should take the result in the context of what went into it. But regardless, I'm inclined to put it another way. It's an upgrade costing about half a cup of coffee and taking not much time to fit, as a bit of the kind of tinkering that's perhaps even, for us oddballs, at the fun end of tinkering. How many (speed/power/efficiency) upgrades have we all fitted that cost many times that and what benefit do we expect from them? Considered alongside those, what benefit in speed increase (or whatever other measure you choose to use) would you want to see to judge this as worthwhile for the time and cost incurred? I suspect the answer to that is about half of ****** all. 😉 Disbenefits in the case of motors that are going to wet/mucky places excepted, on the assumption we're choosing to do this where such things don't really apply. I reserve a particular car for that kind of treatment and I think that's quite a common way of thinking.
  15. Jourduson started following Help with BBX motor/ESC choice
  16. one_hit
    Totally agree. Why not pay the extra $100-150 for the better radio that you know you will use for 5, maybe 10 years or more? My Futaba 4PK that I bought in 2009, is still alive and kicking. So is my 4PX that I bought in 2014. Though the 4PK rarely gets used these days, it will come out of retirement when my son is old enough to play RC. As long as you take good care of your gear, they will last a long time
  17. GTodd
    What's period correct body options are still available for the RC10? Just the current Jconcepts ones?!I like them, and I have one for the Team Car I'm building. Just wondering there are other options.
  18. Collin
    How funny. Just found this trees myself and was wondering where they belong to. Anyone knows the answer?
  19. Aerobert
    A Top Force.
  20. BuggyDad
    Wings that turn up at the sides and back, basically, but I'm sure ghere are other examples. I've just painted two of these. I'm happy enough with them but I wonder whether there are different ideas out there, especially to get a bit more of a glossy finish, a bit more like the usual outside side. There's also leaving them clear of course, or scuffing them to frost as some racers do, but I'm not really after that here, although I might try it someday. On my Avante one I backed metallic blue with silver then put a couple more coats of the blue over, so essentially both sides are backed. Finish is good but not the same and somewhat exposed to damage. On my white one I used Pearl white backed with white*. I didn't recoat with more pearl. Partly I didn't have any left but partly also I wasn't sure there would be much point, since it's like I'd be seeking an impossible match. I haven't mounted it yet, although I think it does look good. However I am also considering backing it with black, partly for a bit of a contrast and a feature. It's possible, but I'm not sure, that PS black might be a bit glossier too, although that's maybe only true when sprayed straight onto bare lexan. So, have you tried different things? Maybe a gloss clear on top for a combination of finish and protection, and if so what paint and how to apply? Or maybe a very fine sand to Polish smooth then a finishing coat? Got any interesting examples of what you've done? *as an aside, with airbrush (first time back on the airbrush since last summer) I got two shells and a wing out of the remains of these two already half used cans. Maybe not so much the Pearl but coverage of PS-1 is pretty amazing.
  21. Juggular
    That is curious. Erasers have plasticizer, which makes them soft. If plasticizer touches plastic for a long time, plasticizer melts the plastic. That's why erasers left sitting on ruler, keyboard, etc, would stick to them. They must have used some special plastic.
  22. Jonathon Gillham
    My son has had a 3PV for about 7 years now and its never missed a beat. It has been a great radio. He has taken on the MT4S now as having all Sanwa is a bit eaiser rather than having 2 different rx available. Personally I would go for the 4PM (or secondhand 4PV if you can find one, I think the 4PV looks better) as the 3PV is a small radio and not as comfortable in the hand. The 3PV also has an annoying UI where you sdroll through all options to get to what you want, rather than menus. You have radios for a long time, so won't regret it in the long run.
  23. El Gecko
    Huh? Physics is an integral part of our beloved RC hobby. It's what allows the motors to work, suspensions to work, tires to work, etc. Not sure how you can separate the two. I didn't watch the video, so I'm only speaking from my own experience and observations. I don't have any hard data like that, but I made the switch to bearings in one of my old motors in the midst of a round of Racing by Post, and while the individual lap counts for each 5min stint didn't seem to improve much, I noticed a few other big differences. The battery was the same, only now instead of 2.5-ish stints (the pack would dump halfway through the third stint) I could make it fully three stints with a bit to spare. And I noticed more power and more wheelspin coming out of the corners, as well as higher speeds at the end of the straights. As I got more comfortable with it, the motor temp actually stayed similar to before, since I had to be on the brakes more often. But just bashing around, temps are much lower due to the motor spinning more freely. This was an old motor, and the bushings were well worn, as I discovered when I switched brushes initially. While I was breaking in the brushes, no matter what I did, there was always a nasty vibration at certain RPMs which would cause a serious and sudden RPM drop. I got the brushes broken in and tried to drive it like that for awhile, and boy was I surprised when I finally switched it to bearings. It was like a whole new motor, like it had been set free. The bushings were dragging it down, preventing it from reaching its full potential and killing its efficiency. So I started doing the same to all my other bushing motors. It would be nice if Tamiya put bearings in at least some of their motors from the start. I have a new-ish Sport Tuned in another car with a bushing that screams like R2D2 if I don't oil it every run.
  24. skom25
    In terms of RC, I am like a man in the middle of the desert
  25. ad456
    Sounds like a cracking backpack car!
  26. Nikko85
    The RadioShack have a model that works well, it's an almost perfect 1/14 scaled down LB. I will find the model.
  27. Pylon80
    I absolutely loath entertaining tea room physics discussions on our beloved RC car collector's website... it's just not the right place. Worst of all, I started it myself. I apologize for that... The only point I wanted to make but did not make a very good job, is this: Cageman is a good guy and he has made helpful videos comparing various motors and effectively taking the time to experiment a bit in order to answer questions that nobody is typically able to answer, for instance which brushless motor is roughly equivalent to a sport tuned etc. However, if we want to think like engineers, let's think like engineers for a minute. For the RZ bushings vs. bearings comparison, his GPS does not have a decimal point. The runs were not done on the same "session". Only 2 runs were made. The results are further converted to mph and the bogus 7.5% difference becomes "wow, that is 8-9% faster! Quick! Let's buy bearings!". The entire chain of thought should make you smile, at best. Repeatability: let's take that same car and do 10 runs, without changing anything at all. Re-peak the battery if you want between each run. The results will vary up or down by at least 1 or 2 kph, some of it due to your driving, some due to the battery, some due to the motor, some due to the wind, some due to the GPS itself... we can go on and on. "Wow! that is a 2-3% difference!" Display Resolution: the lack of a decimal point means - assuming the GPS does conventional rounding - all results must be interpreted as +/-0.5kph (his GPS is set to kph). There goes another +/-2%... A different take (that of course nobody will try): let's purchase 2 RZ motors ($$), install bearings in one of them and break in both motors the same way. Then do 6 runs, 3 with each motor, swapping the motors back to back. Correct all results to account for the +/-0.5 kph display resolution, average the results for each motor. Now you will obtain 2 numbers, a low and a high, of observed differences. Bonus points: not all motors are the same, so let's swap the bushing and bearings between the 2 motors one more time and repeat the 6 runs test sequence. Then, you might get numbers that can be taken a bit more seriously. The performance improvement could be even higher, who knows.
  28. Mouc-RC
    Fully agreed! I'd say I hugely prefer the QD Monsters to the CW-01s... (would be nice to find a smaller LunchBox body to put on a QD chassis, by the way, could be cool next to a QD Pumpkin )
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