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  2. Happy Monday, Thanks guys fir your input 🙂 what grade paper should I use to flat this mess of paint back? Please 😚
  3. Today
  4. So, I always struggled with this car on uneven ground at speed (2S LiPo + a 12 turn brushed motor) as it got out of shape pretty quickly, and Willy is looking worse for wear! Yesterday I took it to a cricket pitch, and the central part of the ground was perfect - that tractor can pull wheelies instantly and the grass was smooth enough that it rarely tumbled over. I had an absolute blast! I've always maintained that the best RC is only the best if you have the right space to run it - different types of RC need different environments to enjoy them - and the high CoG and inherently unstable nature of the tractor (due to the ridiculously large rear wheels) have, until now, left me struggling. Not any more...
  5. That's a lot of power! Any common bolt-on 48p spur will fit. I'm really not sure about the pull under acceleration. One of the reasons I like mine so much is how straight it goes. How's the side-to-side balance?
  6. "Best" is so tough to determine. I use an ISDT 1000 watt DC charger, and it's perfect for me- it has huge power, so it charges big batteries fast, and has a 2.2 amp balancing circuit, so it's even faster. It's also expensive (especially with the power supply), requires you to make your own leads, etc. The Hitec X1 AC Pro is a great choice. It's got 100 watts, which isn't huge, but is adequate for most applications, is dead reliable, charges everything including LiHV, and isn't terribly expensive. If you want to charge two batteries at the same time, grab a Hitec X2 Plus. I'd skip the very inexpensive chargers available online. One battery costs more than the potential savings, and I definitely don't want to lose the house over a cheap charger.
  7. Something interesting about the Kyosho Re-re's is that they seem to keep making them. There was a time when the Tomahawk and maybe some others were shown as discontinued and I was only able to find one in stock at Tamico. Presently, all of the legendary series continues to be available. Hopefully people keep buying them and the new owners continue to bring back the classics.
  8. Where are you based? That will help with the online retailers. I'm in New Zealand and find Banggood to be very good for stuff like this, shipping is usually pretty quick if you pay for shipped. All model shops will be able to sell you something, but often they are more expensive or under specced. As for the charger, it depends what you want it for. I would suggest getting one that can do all battery types, which most will these days. If you are charging NiMH or 2S lipos then any should be fine as long as its at least 50w per channel, and a charge rate of 6amps. That should charge most batteries in under an hour. I like the SkyRC range and would look at the D100 if I was buying again. Its a dual charger so can charge 2 batteries at once, and since I only charge 2s batteries at 1C the power and charge rates are fine for me. They also have some nice features like measuring your internal resistance so you can get an idea of the condition of the battery when they are getting older. If you are charging 4S or 6S batteries or want to charge at higher rates then you'll need to get a much more powerful charger. Other things to look for are whether you'll be using it on AC power at home or a club, or in the field where you'll need one that can run off a DC powersupply.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Yes it seems that way, but i have seen videos of peoples brushless in egress’ & avantes and they are flying. I dont need a rocket ship but the 10.5 is honestly not much faster than a stock. What i think i am going to do it throw the justock in my zahhak or optima and see if it truly is the gearing. Also since the goolrc is so cheap i bought a 3900kv for $32 and will try it. If it doesnt do the job ill save for my next kit.
  11. Thanks @TDanny. I ordered a single set to see how it goes. I'm hoping the decals come with the clear body set when it comes out, I would use those decals for the bumper.
  12. Looks good. I actually like the blue with the green & are those wheels gold chrome? Works for me. How’s the drive?
  13. My wife filmed a few laps. Never my best with the camera rolling, haha!
  14. They are one in the same. Shortly after the Avante Black Release and before the Egress Rerelease Tamiya introduced AVANTE Hicap damper set for the AVANTE. The Hicaps have never been available as a spare part for the Egress , even though the parts are listed on the Tamiya USA spare parts page. The Front Hicap from the Avante option set is a mini Hicap, the same you will need for the front of an Astute car.
  15. Did you finish these builds, are there any more pictures to show rest of builds? I'm interested to see, especially the DB02 because I've got one on the way, I've brought it from someone selling on ebay. Ty^^
  16. I already thought of this - and I have a solution. Basically, have the battery below a fake "filled" dump truck, as per this photo: That way the sides come down, but the battery still fits under the "load." Also, I tried it in actual off-road conditions yesterday... it's ok, but I think it's more of an inside RC.
  17. I can't add anything meaningful, just that, I too, am perplexed by brushless gearing. Most Tamiyas have only one available spur, limiting you to pinion changes. I also gathered that Tamiya's in general are geared for stock motors. Am I to understand that originally, they couldn't be geared low enough to use high rpm brushed modifieds from back in the day and now can't be geared high enough to take advantage of faster brushless motors?
  18. What brushless set ups and gearing are you guys using? Right now i am running a hobbywing justock 10.5 and started with a 21t pinion, top end was nothing special, as was off the line. I tried to tinker with my other .6 pinions I had. I tried 19t and my lowest 16t, there was literally no difference from my 21t i used. Im assuming since i cant gear up past 22t on a re re egress that my FDR is way off. I have read that the egress fdr is really meant for a stock motor. I was adviced by a local racer to gear down and try a tekin spec 13.5 or 10.5 motor since they run much higher rpms geared low and should fix my issue. My other option i was told was try a cheap 9.5 brushless motor and turn the timing way down or try a goolrc combo setup. Sorry for the long read, any advice or help is appreciated.
  19. Had the M08 and Dancing Rider out with the boys today. Dancing Rider was a hit, until the gearbox started slipping something chronic. I’ve had it apart and I can’t spot anything amiss. I was suspicious of the pinion, but I was able to stop the motor by holding it, so I don’t think it’s that. Something crash related, as it took a 4 year old brain a little while to understand the steering being so much slower at speed. This evening was XV01T repair time; sourcing some of the plastic rod ends to go in the suspension mounts, along with pricing up the mounts themselves to try to reduce the suspension popping incidents. I’m sure smaller wheels and better driving would help too, but those are harder to source I thought I could have a family reunion. XV01T, XV01LD and XV01TC-Pro. I bought the TC years back when the XV01Pro had just gone eol, and converted it to mostly rally spec. Never been run because it looks too pretty, so I’m contemplating converting it back to TC spec and picking a suitable shelf queen body.
  20. I would jump straight in and layout some different track ideas with rope and wire tent pegs. Build some simple wooden ramps, nothing too elaborate. Then run it for a bit. That way you can try different layouts and lane widths without committing to digging the whole lot up needlessly. Making changes to it until you are happy to install something more permanent.
  21. Next lot of masking - the vent trims. These were pretty tricky. I tried blu-tack, masking tape for curves but in the end just regular tape and machine cut circles and curves worked best: I didn't take a shot of how these looked before I started on masking the rear light trims the next day. This was the hardest part yet, the trims are recessed slightly and curved making it hard to stick the tape without it lifting: At the same time I masked the rest of the body to spray the backing silver and black inside. You can see there's an extra layer of cling film over the back lights and tape tabs that I'll remove after spraying the backing colours, leaving the rest of the body masked to do the light trims. This included slightly larger headlight masks so as to preserve the sharp edge of the white: I sprayed the inside PS silver then PS black for a totally opaque finish: Then I removed the film over the lights and sprayed the trims. This worked very well. Just needed a little clean up with a cocktail stick and some slight touch up with a brush. Suddenly the rough looking outside-the-lines lights are pretty smart: If they're anything like the 959 ones then they'll be entirely unresponsive to heat! I'll see how I go, but it was a bit annoying doing the 959 and getting the paint so right then the unavoidable sticker wrinkles It's a much less curvy body this one so hopefully will behave
  22. Going to buy a Mad Bull following recommendations on here but need some advice on the best fast charger. Also so many online outlets can any one recommend their experiences with one? Thank you good people
  23. Anybody remember the old school Clod Buster racer? I was tossing together some Clod parts I had and wound up with this: 20190922_133609 by Scott Weiland, on Flickr 20190922_133711 by Scott Weiland, on Flickr Its far from complete and not dead-on accurate but the vibe is there. One of the first full aftermarket chassis for the Clod was the Sassy Chassis, an aluminum piece that mimicked the plastic tub. This was before the ESP Clodzilla 2 ladder chassis. The Clodzilla 1 chassis was actually one of these Sassy units drilled full of lightening holes. The shocks are kicked at a more progressive angle like the old ESP racing suspension kit. The servo is still center mounted and the gearboxes are old school 4-linked to the axle tubes, top and bottom. The Traxxas shocks would have to go for some Kyosho Golds and the Super Clod blue stuff should be original Clod red. Some Trinity paired Clod motors or even some Speedworks Monster Mash motors would look better than the HPI Firebolts. Still, the spirit's there. The snot green paint even works to a degree. I'm not sure if the truck will continue in this direction but for now, its cool.
  24. Battery is shot. Not enough voltage for receiver etc so esc cuts power to motor so car doesn't run away out of control
  25. Hey, So I just joined the forum because I need some help on my car. The car always worked fine untill now, I haven't used it for a while and now the throttle isn't working anymore. It gets the signal and starts making a beep sound when I pull the trigger but no movement, only the red led lights up. The steering works fine. I already tried to reset/reprogram the esc but it didn't do much. Using the tamiya teu 101bk I hope you guys know how to fix this.
  26. I agree the space plate fitment needs to be correct, but I'm talking about how far the pinion is pushed onto the motor spindle, and not how tightly the pinion is engaging with the spur gear. That worn plastic gear is only worn across about 1/3 or its width. Incorrect spacer plate fitment could easily cause it to ruin the gear and slip, but it would still wear it across most of its width if the pinion is correctly adjusted onto the motor spindle.
  27. Thank you! Tire thread continuity is definitely very important. I'm mostly worried about a line on the side walls.
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