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  2. Thanks Balgaroth. I’ll describe what I did to get more space and see the pictures below. Please excuse the complete lack of correct terminology for the parts in question... I used a dremmel to grind away the tallest of the ribs that run across the battery compartment. The two tallest are the ones furthest at each end. Other than maybe the last millimetre or two at each end of the rib where it meets the wall I ground them completely flush with the tray. I left all the other bits that go under the battery as they were. The only other bit I ground down were the ‘circumference ribs’ on the underside of the battery clamp moulding. The corresponding rib on the top side of that clamp makes no difference to the battery space so left it alone. I made one adjustment to the ‘metal screw that has a hole in the top for one of the battery clamp clips to go into’ (I’m sure it has a shorter name!). Just backs it out one full turn. The combined effect of the above was more that needed to the extent that I used a piece of mountain bike innertube both under the battery and also on top (under the clamp). This took up the slack and gives it a bit of cushion. Or you could just take it a bit slower than I did and have a firmer plastic-on-plastic fit instead.
  3. Absolutely gorgeous ! Thanks a lot mate ! Made my day
  4. Wild One packed and courier booked for @Busdriver it will be on its way tomorrow for you 👍 Well packed and insured buddy 💥
  5. Today
  6. I need 2 lots of 4 aa batteries for my KO Propo transmitter. They all seem to be mega expensive which is really weird as batteries are so cheap now. I’ve found 4 Nimh for about 9 quid on eBay. Is that my only option? As I need total of 9.6v I don’t think I can see any lipo I can buy that will fit plus they’re even more crazily priced like 20 quid each! but anyway I can’t seem to find many for what is surely fairly common (ie 4 aa battery compartments?)
  7. Would love some info on your test bench. Is it homemade? Seems it would be easier getting an engine square off the vehicle.
  8. Well a gear lost a tooth, so it’s out of commission (yes I broke a lunchie gearbox, actually my friend did, landed while quarter throttle.) so I’m gonna get a metal replacement!
  9. @Juggular thanks for the advice; I'll un-snug the hex adapters a little. Also agree on the aluminium shock tower nuts, the reason they are there is the bolts I used to mount the shocks didn't leave enough thread to get a proper steel nyloc on so used one of the fancy blue ones I have which are much slimmer. It'll be best if I source some longer bolts and get the steel nuts on with a decent washer.
  10. @topforcein I'm living in Shirley, Solihull. That actually leads onto where I plan to run it which is not sure actually! Got a local grass park that has some good open spaces and rolling hills and also has a skate park that I think will get all the bashing (not sure how this thing will survive over the box but I'll soon find out), but looking to find somewhere a bit more dedicated for off-road running, and also wouldn't mind finding an indoor space as the weather is turning a bit... In the longer term I do want to find a club so I can learn from others and get hands on running advice. Thanks for the video link too; that perfectly answers the aftermarket steering problem as they are made for the plastic tub DF01 (I think?) anyways the issue was the cross-brace was waaay to short in both cases and completely removed all of the lock. I did actually try to build a turnbuckle like the chap in the video but that too offered reduced steering and was a bit close to the gearbox for comfort. Think i'll stick with the plastic parts for now.
  11. I've successfully used Fairy Power Spray (oven cleaner) to remove chrome from Tamiya two-part wheels, though you've got to be aware that a clear primer may be used under the plating and this is more difficult to remove without scrubbing and soaking in bleach!
  12. Thanks for your Responses, this is still one of the best Webforums i know Since i never ridden a a Racetrack, i dont know how many Turns, Corners, Straights and Crossings i should Put. Does anyone have Sggestions for a Layout that brings some fun? I don`t want to turn all the Grass into Track and i want to Decorate the Track. Is there any Suggestion of a nice Layout? I think that all of my Cas burst to topspeed on a Distance from 5 to 6 meters...
  13. I have a Zahhak which is pretty much upgraded to a TRF201 (and a little beyond). Here's what I'm using for electronics: Savox SC-1258TG Servo Tekin RS Gen2 ESC Trinity 24K 17.5 I'll have to check for sure, but I'm either using a 27T or 28T pinion right now. The motor is not a current top tier motor, but it does really good.
  14. If that does not work the oven cleaner approach should. I tried to bleach on a chrome Twin Detonator roll bar and it didn't touch it, but the oven cleaner removed it after an overnight soak.
  15. Welcome. As good as Tamiya is, you could find noticeable gaps. It's better than being too tight. In fact, DF-01, TA-01 chassis have the problem of prop shaft slightly binding. I might leave 1-2 mm of play. When you land hard, the chassis could flex and twist. The shaft shouldn't turn into a structural beam stopping the flex. Your chassis being carbon, there is very little flexing. But it could still flex like 0.2mm overall. The plastic parts that they are attached to could also give 0.1mm here and 0.1mm there, ending up with 0.5mm total flex at the shaft. I like blue parts too (well, I like orange anodizing better). But one thing you should note is that it could be weaker than steel parts. Because of that, I prefer not to use aluminum on shock tower nuts or drive cups. If you grind steel pins against aluminum cups, aluminum tends to lose. Of course, that depends on the kinds of alloy. I suspect my old iphone 5 is made out of stronger aluminum alloy. These "aircraft grade" aluminum are tougher (maintains sharp facets better). But even 6061 aluminum has hardness of 95, where as 361 stainless steel has hardness of 149. Steel is 50% harder than 6000 grades. Oddly, one of lower grades has 120 hardness level. But I doubt that Chinese makers are using that. The harder the material, the more often they must replace expensive machining parts. After all, RC parts don't need to be as strong as rock climber's gears. Back in early 2000, they used to make bumpers out of the same aluminum too. If they were 7075 aluminum and as strong as steel, the aluminum bumpers wouldn't have disappeared. But nobody would buy easily broken bumpers anymore. As for shock height and the hole location on the shock towers, that's entirely up to you. You can adjust depending on the terrain, weight of the oil, etc. The right and left should be the same length, obviously. After that, I just do the drop test. Lift the front end (with battery in it), and drop it. If it bottoms out, 3 things to consider: either the spring is too weak, clearance too low, too light an oil. Do the same for the rear. If the shocks move too little and the car bounces on the tires, 2 things to consider; lighter spring and/or lighter oil. If the shocks oscillate too much, just 1 thing to consider: oil. Mounting holes would change the stance: ground clearance. But it also changes the strength of the springs. (Strength of the springs don't change, but the force it takes to move the wheels up would change) I would say just experiment with it and have fun. Run it, have fun, break it, and also have fun restoring it and upgrading it. After all, RC is a tool for fun.
  16. There is no timing on the hobbywing justock 10.5. It is fixed, the hobbywing esc i use and the hobbywing program card does not let me boost or up the timing. I can only adjust the rotation, brakes ect. The throttle endpoints i actually have to turn up alot to give me the performance i have now.
  17. @Rb4276 Does the motor have end bell timing adjustment? If it does and it is set to zero it will be fairly slow and would also explain the lack of performance across the board. Also, just to eliminate everything, double check your throttle end points setup on your ESC and Tx, and any other adjustments for performance the ESC might have?
  18. hello and a warm welcome to tamiya club i see your in brum where about the shock ride height will depend on where you plan to run it as for the mounting position for the shocks just use the kit locations and alloy hop up tends not to be a good fit sometimes try and have a look at this video
  19. I recently purchased some wheels for my All Metal Frog from @njmlondon. Then I realised that I needed the adapters to fit them. They arrived today.. Pics of the fitted wheel upgrade to follow tomorrow.
  20. tamiya usa https://www.tamiyausa.com/blog/tamiya-cc-02-trail-truck-pictures-part-2/?fbclid=IwAR02wtuW7keH7szS3MIaLylvO5qvC4iObmdmyg4jO61T713HtCwmcKoJu-E
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