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  2. Pylon80
    Indeed the 3.5mm bullet connectors fit perfectly into the back of the TBLM-02S motors. Now I would not know where to source the 90deg/low profile connectors that come with these motors. I have the 3 connectors that came with each of the motors I bought and I hold onto them preciously!
  3. Alex97
    I think they are 3.5mm bullet connectors. The Tamiya motor is just a rebranded speed passion V3 from about 10 years ago.
  4. GTodd
    For sure, all of which you can easily find exceot maybe the drive cups, maybe get a few of thise, that said Ive never worn them out on any of mine but my cars only get occasional use with the kids. Hubs, arms, suspension mounts etc. Ive never broke one on a RC10 and theyve bene ran on 1/8 dirt tracks with brushless/lipo. These were OG stealth cars at that, not new produced stuff. New rere palstics should be stronger.
  5. B666H
    OK thanks so you didn't super glue yours in either then ?
  6. technics
    Made some wheels look more vivid with some paint I’m happy with for the Subaru and the Honda. Made small logos for the enkeis. Not perfect as I noticed an error but it’s enough to please the eye imo. Happy Friday everyone!
  7. okieran
    Hi, I've just acquired this Monster Beetle and have been trying to identify whether it is the original version or the 2015 re-run. Also, if anyone could help me with what battery I'll need to get this this running I would be greatly appreciative (and any other tips!) - this is my first Monster Beetle. Thanks in advance!
  8. Howards
    I mangled one of the little gold bullet connectors that plug in to the can on the Tamiya brushless motors. Does anyone know where to obtain some more, or know what they are called so I can buy an equivalent?
  9. Today
  10. bRIBEGuy
    It might be interesting if they did... on the other hand, I really don't know if there would be a market for them (aside from people buying them for parts for restorations)? While I'm appreciative of what they represented at the time, the reality of these cars in a modern day setting is that they are pretty basic and likely don't really drive well. But who knows, right? Tamiya does surprise us with their releases from time to time...
  11. ThunderDragonCy
    Although i haven't run the car yet, i did also have the first iteration of the M05 transmission made as well. I happened to have the gear shafts leftover from a brief TL01 ownership so i tried putting it together. Gears inserted and motor plate installed. This is first area for revision. It has a boss on it to hold the end of the short gear shaft, but also slots into the middle of the gearcase. This meant a bit of bending and twisting of the plate to get it in, but that would be impossible with a metal motor plate, so that needs a rethink. That said, once installed the gears mesh nicely. After a few false starts and trial fits i got it together with an old FF01 ball diff in there. The M05 gear diff gear i got with the rest of the internals is too wide. It's 21mm vs 20mm for the FF01. Slightly concerned that this won't allow an m05 ball diff to be installed despite designing for the requisite 1510 bearings. Can someone with an m05 let me know how wide the gear diff is please? I suspect this will need changing. Still, it's a decent first look. Need to get some 1510 bearings. I can push some 1050 bearings into them and run the ff01 diff for now.
  12. IXLR8
    While the RC10 is tough as nails, it can wear out over time. My backyard track is very sandy so worn ballcups, hinge pins, drive cups, dog bones, shock shafts, - just about every moving part - are a nagging problem. Even the chassis pan on at least one of my runners is wearing thin. I have actually broken very few parts and it's always been due to driver error.
  13. Pylon80
    @Honza here goes: Front Soft/Black: 1.6mm Front Hard/Silver: 2.0mm Rear Soft/Black 1.3mm Rear Hard/Silver 1.5mm They all appear to be stainless, bare for the silver ones and painted for the black ones.
  14. skom25
    Update: Universals. I really like them, but there is one major flaw: if grub is not super tight, pin will fall out. All parts ready. I used Blue Loctite on grub screw. It is good compromise between strength and possibility to remove screw in future. Do not use stronger thread locker, because you will have problem Remove excess of thread locker which is around grub screw and they are ready to go. I mentioned this before, but I used WD-40 to protect them a bit. I did not use it on that element with thread, because thread locker and oil is not the best combination. I put that tiny red sponges in diff cups, to limit cups movement. Everything is nice and tight. I really like how it looks!
  15. skom25
    Update: Turnbuckles. If you do not know how to do them, you will cry and your fingers will be swollen. If you know how to do them properly, it will be like 20 minutes job for whole car. Tools. - Hand drill - Spare turnbuckle - Turnbuckle wrench - Grease - Caliper I prefer to use spare turnbuckle, like tap. I do not risk that I will damage turnbuckle from the kit, especially if you want to use aluminium version. I like Ball Diff grease, because it is easy to remove after work. About wrench and caliper later. Install turnbuckle into drill and apply good amount of grease. Side with "mark" has right thread, opposite left thread. It mean "clockwise" and "counterclockwise". Screw it to the end, unscrew about a half and screw again. Then unscrew it fully. Now install turnbuckle you want to use into drill and just screw it, as any other screw. It will be super easy that way. Then prepare opposite rod end. Now when you have on rod installed, you can use it as handle. Ready! Wash them with soapy water, to remove grease which will attract dirt. If you want to use wrench which is in Tamiya kits, my advice is: throw it into bin. I have two wrenches, both aluminium. I use Blue only to aluminium turnbuckles, Grey to steel. Why? Because if you use the same for steel and aluminium, it is highly possible that you will damage aluminium turnbuckle. Steel is much harder than aluminium, so after some time you will see some damage on wrench. You do not want use damaged wrench on soft, aluminium part. Of course you can buy steel wrench for steel turnbuckles, but I am afraid that with strange shape of Tamiya turnbuckles, it is possible that it will damage them. I think it is better to replace wrench after some time, than turnbuckles.
  16. GTodd
    No modern 1/10 can take that either. That isn't the context of the discussion. Try better to be a better more contributive member of the forum.
  17. Kowalski86
    So I can take one to the skate park and launch it 50ft into the air?
  18. GTodd
    The RC10 followed 1:1 racing car philosophy, keep it simple. It's almost impossible to break. The turnbuckles are the only thing you need to replace, they bend very easily due to their thin diameter. I've restored 2 old vintage RC10s. One team car and one worlds car. They take modern abuse well, no mods needed to run brushless or lipos. There's a company making perfect replica parts for the OG RC10s called Fan RC. If you actually brake something they got your back. I'll be driving and racing the 4oth, although with a different chassis!
  19. Kowalski86
    That's how I feel, the official video plays up the racing angle and shows old RC10s jumping around tracks, but there's no footage of the rere in action. If you watch Kyoshos videos for the JJ Ultima rere, there's some modern footage of them jumping around tracks.
  20. Tamiyastef
    This how far I got on the DT-02, no actual testing done yet + final placement of electronics still to do And the Wild One looks like this now; and has been tested but with other wheels/tires. Electronics on this are ready and when the weather coöperates it will be tested again this weekend for final adjustments. Will use the prepainted shell as the Terra Scorcher still needs paint...
  21. OldSchoolRC1
    Yes, for 4WS on one channel you need a reversing cable so the servos turn in opposite directions. Can get an inline reverser, or a reversing Y cable. I have a 3 position switch on my go-to radio, I use it to control the rear steering separately. Works well, though sometimes I forget which way to go, switch to crab by accident and go careening off the side of a rock. The Flysky GT5 has crawl steering built in and I use that on a few rigs as well, it works great though it's a bit of a pain to switch it on the fly. Bottom line - if you can do it through your TX, that's for sure the way to go long term.
  22. Re-Bugged
    It’ll be worth the wait IMO @Nicadraus 😉
  23. Re-Bugged
    Woohoo 🥳 got out today for an hour which is probably going to be my only window of opportunity looking at the weather for the next week. It’s no secret I’ve never really been a big fan of TT02’s and my first few experiences with my TT02R have had a few problems that haven’t helped. I glad to say my opinion of them has changed in this rather hasty attempt at round 45. Realising the steering stops can be cut off with the CVD’s instead of dog bones is the first game changer as it no longer need’s 10 acres to do a u turn. And gearing down a bit (can’t remember to what to) making it much more Postal Race friendly 😁. It’s funny but I think the body choice makes a positive difference as well for a Truck nut like me. Mrs RB came along for the Fat Fox maiden run and to count laps. I’m not expecting any podium position but the 2 stints I made were thoroughly enjoyable despite us being eaten alive by sand flys. The little blighters tend to be drawn to attacking ones ankles and is rather like pulling on a pair of socks filled with shards of glass. My intrepid lap counter had to vacate after the 2 attempts for another appointment, so the touring car wheels were then replaced with some Drift wheels to drain the battery closer to storage state. That was the first time drifting for me and I have to say I really rather enjoyed that too.
  24. toyolien
    That looks great. Although, I think you should get some new decals made up. It needs to be called the "Long Shot" !
  25. Honza
    That looks cool! It's bummer that Tamiya didn't release some retro bodies on these chassis. It looks like it's been made for that.
  26. skom25 started following Futaba 3PV vs 4PM
  27. skom25
    Hi, I already created similar Topic, but it was more like general discussion about replacement for Sanwa MX-6 which failed me. I hope that with only two competitors, I will find more audience and opinions. Futaba 3PV vs 4PM. Any comments or opinions? I really have problem to choose which one I should buy. Main factor is of course price. One 4PM costs more than two 3PVs. MX-6 is nice. Menu is bit annoying, but I do not change settings constantly, so it is not an huge issue. I think 3PV is quite similar in this area. I watched few reviews of 4PM and it looks great, however, being totally honest I have feeling that I will not use 90% of functions. What I really like is adjustability of trigger etc. I am just not sure, if I want to pay so much money for radio, just to have adjustable triggers and TONS of functions which I will not use. Both use the same Receivers. Does it mean, that from connection/ response perspective, they should behave the same?
  28. Jourduson started following Help with BBX motor/ESC choice
  29. Jourduson
    It was the original pinion gear shaft that was too long, not the pinion gear. It wasn't much, so a hole solved the problem to keep it from rubbing on the casing. Also, the casing wouldn't close properly otherwise. I feel the disc covering the hole is discreet and placed so that it doesn't interfere with the look of the casing. The pinion gear you see here, is the original pinion gear supplied with the motor by Hobbywing. Hobbywing explicitly mentioned that this combo was also suitable for 1:10 despite the 5mm shaft. So I think that's why this 48P gear was supplied. Also included was a spare fan which pleasantly surprised me.
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