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  1. Today
  2. Andy, I use a 'huge' 8" wheel set on an old decommissioned (broken rest and missing shield) grinder from work. Pulled off all the shields, screwed to a mobile tool stand, it works great and is easy to swap buffs on. Sisal for heavy duty smoothing used with those greasy sticks of heavy compound, sewn cotton with normal grades and an unsewn/loose cotton (I like to call it a flapper, as it's all over the place for final shine and plastics. Remove the tool rest and guards, find a wheel you can get onto the arbor and you can really get a decent shine quickly on the SRB stuff. Mirror shines require sanding everything flat and smooth before attempting any polishing. The gear case has so many nooks and crannies, even with little tiny felt buffs and cotton wheels in a Dremel... you're going to be at it for a very long time. I just polished up my old SuperChamp and am in the process of trying to get a Rough Rider body fitted so I can do a Malcom Smith BelRay Bullet scheme... but so much is aftermarket... it's tough going. Wear eye protection (preferably a face shield!) and cotton gloves. I had the safety glasses on (thankfully!) when the CRP roll bar got yanked from my tired fingers... and that sucker hit me so hard in the face... you might as well have punched me. The safety glasses got a nice nick over the right eye... would have probably been poked out by that one. Polishing is messy... be prepared for lots of threads and crap flying about.
  3. They are the exact length, with a few spacers you can run most modern Tamiya CVs.
  4. Did a bit of this today after an old black can vs silver black can testing.. gotta love a pile of grass clippings 😁
  5. i've been getting that frequently often and or TAX deducted or reinstated, and the Visa over sea fee thing (i forget the actual term, it's not much). "You wanna Play? then you get to Pay". sometimes not often they'll put a Lil' gift in there, one time it was hard candy (No Thank You).
  6. i have found more good than bad on ebay as of the past two years than any other time since their conception. I had purchased a pair of new/used speakers that were hard to find, thus when received item there was only one speaker, Ebay sided with me, there's more to the story "he said, she said" scenario, very awkward to say the least. i have actually made several friends with some vendors that have treated me golden and they know i'm never in a rush for these materialistic items. every once in a while something comes damaged and well takes time but ebay pulls through for me every time. i'll be as polite as possible when typing, these very words and works like a charm every time (i do mean it with all sincerity though) with this "Hello and salutations" and and then state my case and finish with "Thank You with Kind Regards". ems.
  7. Well ( drum roll please ) I snagged a morning today to run my ORV with the Black Black can, then the newer Silver Black can on 2s. Now take the results as you will as the Black Black can has been used a few times mainly in my Blitzer compared to the Silver Black which is fresh out the box bar 15/20 minutes bench run from a single AA battery before installing it in the chassis. Black Black first up... Maximum 39 Km/r Silver Black.... Maximum 46Km/h 😁👍🏻... http:// So there we have it. I my case the Silver Black is a bit faster over the Black Black. There is mention of the ‘RS540 used as a base, with turns & timing tuned for more efficiency, power with minimal battery drain’ on the side of the box. I’m not going to argue with that, I’m more than happy with it’s performance 👍🏻
  8. I keep quite a bit of 10Wt oil in stock for various projects where I have access to smaller hole pistons, usually AE brand. The CST of oil weights does alter a little bit from brand to brand. However if I need less than 100cst/10Wt I typically reach for the bottle of 1/1 scale automatic transmission fluid. It’s a viable alternative if you need something super light, that won’t worry your silicon seals.
  9. Did the cracks occur through the screw holes? Did you tap the threads first? Were you gentle and patient with screwing them in? I don’t think TA01/2 gearboxes shouldn’t crack so easily, but I’ve only seen them with self-tapping screws. I have built one car 90% with machine screws. Now I’m worried.
  10. Yeah, I do the same thing, it's just the fair thing to do. Another thing I've done in the past is drop in a few extra things I hadn't mentioned in the auction when I pack it all up, it all goes to make a happier buyer.
  11. Yesterday
  12. 6x R31House Wheels to suit Tamiya G6-01 Konghead. New and Unused. These add about 4mm to the width each side compared to the stock Konghead Wheels. £20 posted.
  13. Yep! one of the Hermes drivers I had on my CCTV at the front door didn't even have the decency to walk down the steps (3 of them) just chucked it down and it bounced off the door......then had the nerve to say on the text I got "your parcel has been delivered through your letter box" I emailed the sender to explain what happened he just replied "yes I know they are c#@p 1 in 10 of things I post with them I have serious problems with" so what chance you got if that's what the the sender says? And try getting an actual person to talk to with these two bit joke companies!
  14. The lightest I've got is Losi 17.5 which is about 180 CST (its hard to find a comparison chart). Searching around it looks like the lightest Tamiya do is 200CST and thats about where most manufacturers start. I saw Losi 10WT and AE 7.5WT are in theory 100CST but I have never seen them for sale. RCMart have Mugen 100CST which is probably the lightest - I say probably as CST is an actual measure and Mugen is a good brand so it should be correct. However, I think some manufacturers make up their own ratings and I don't know anything about Mugen's oils.
  15. Im in the U.S. Is it the electric or nitro version?
  16. 🙂 I do this all the time, but often ill say so in the listing. The postage calculators are useless so sometimes ill guess and say ill refund the rest. Sometimes if its less than i thought ill refund even if i hadnt said i would.
  17. You get some bad ones with some good ones too. Years ago, after an ebay seller shipped the item to me, I got like $2 refund. He said actual shipping was less than what he thought. Whatever it was, shipping was reasonable for the size and weight, maybe like $6? It wasn't a big deal, but I was pleasantly impressed.
  18. Unsprung mass is going to make that worse not better. Generally speaking less unsprung mass is where you want to be. With crawlers it’s about getting traction and stability at super low speeds and the suspension layout better suits that application. Fact is your going so slow the detrimental effect of excess unsprung weight doesn’t exist for that application so the advantages of the extra unsprung weight can be found. the Traxxas UDR looks the closest to that full scale truck because it most accurately replicates the layout. The combination of weight, travel, properly setup sway bars and sophisticated damping allows suspension to work like it does in that video. rc lacks many of these elements but the vehicles need to operate in much harder conditions. If we can remove the high speed requirement then we remove the need for stability that firm, heavily damped suspension offers. Higher quality rc dampers offer much less bypass which allows you to run much softer damping settings while still maintaining stability. Cheaper shocks tend to have more bypass/flex in their damping to prevent the shock from leaking under momentary high pressure situations caused by the damping pack down. For that reason they need heavier damping to maintain stability, and low speed movement is muffled. Tamiya doesn’t really make anything with that particular 4 bar rear With IFS upfront suspension layout. To be honest that arrangement is kinda crappy on anything but scale rc cars, if you wanna go faster than scale speeds, gotta have front and rear independent suspension at the end of the day.
  19. Pics didn't load. I too have considered taking a punt on the TH-1 as an alternative to the Axial SMT based trucks. If you have basic dimensions for the shell such as length, width & wheelbase, that would be great to know. I'm also interested in if the decals are applied to the inside or outside of the body so the "wrong ones" could be removed and replaced...if that makes sense. A year or more ago I bought a monster racer Jr and king cab Jr (1/32 AA battery cars) and thought, how neat would it be to make a 10th scale version of either. I have the proline Hilux, 1/9 mci decals and a spare txt-2 kit. Never got around to it and this seems to be an easy way to get there.
  20. and wheel weights? i know the crawler crowd use them for stability to get the cg lower - but wouldn't it also help to achieve this floaty action?
  21. I added the TRF big bore dampers to my Zahhak. It truly is a night and day difference. I test it by driving over some semi-rough terrain and the body didn't move at all. The dampers just soaked up all the movement.
  22. I forgot about the scale effect! (This is why one head is always less smart than many) That wooden 1/5th car is awesome. I'm amazed that Traxxas UDR can do it without adding a lot of weight. But I cannot afford that. Also, I want my existing Tamiyas to perform well. I don't own any Short Course Truck. But if Losi can do it for $300, I'm sure there is a way to improve Tamiyas without spending $80 on big bore shocks. For the time being, as you guys have suggested, I'll aim for a compromise. Matteo said he used 4-hole pistons instead of 2-hole pistons the instruction tells us to use. His compromise gives me hope. (I might experiment with the lightest oil or even no-oil options --- I only tried no oil on the front of M06 with good results) Does anybody know what is the lightest oil I can buy?
  23. I've got a pair of new Wild One red discs if they are of any use to you ?
  24. Yes, standard drive pin. Its a Dt02 chassis.
  25. Years ago I asked Fred Turner (from Bachman-Turner Overdrive) what pedals Blair Thornton was using. He mentioned the DS-1, so I went out and got a cheap used one. It's a classic pedals that works for a lot of different music! I like the NYC Big Muff Fuzz a lot. Must be my favorite pedal. When combined with the Electric Mistress you can get near the David Gilmour tone. And with the Tony Iommi booster on you can get the Sabbath riff tonality really nice. I love it. I first had the Bass Big Muff, but I did not like it. To my ears the classic Big Muff tone works better with both, my guitar and bass playing. The Tube Screamer is another classic. My Amp is a 1984 Ibanez and comes with a built in pull-on overdrive which is a Tube Screamer, too, as the amp was also built by Maxon Japan. If you have the chance get the classic Big Muff, and the Ibanez Tube Screamer grab 'em alright. Doesn't matter much what music or style you play, they're classics. Plus, you can find 'em much cheaper used on your end of the world
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