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  2. Like everyone ssaid, keep the RC10 for nostaglic memories. Get him a kit with lots of parts available and modern electronics (waterproof ESC, Lipo, brushless or brushed motor, waterproof servo).
  3. yup i actually started off the same! ..but then saw the prop drive shaft... "hey what if i jam this into the drill press". thus the RCLathe 6000 (tm) was born
  4. Yesterday
  5. Generally speaking you’ll only add sway bars if your trying to reduce overall grip, control extreme body roll on very long suspension or managing weight transfer in a high CG chassis. generally speaking these are conditions you don’t see on TT01. I can’t say I’ve ever thought I needed them on my TT01’s or TT02’s on my long travel modified XV01 long damper spec they are mandatory to control all the extra travel. But then there is 30+mm of travel, with 10-15mm of sag. Your TT01 probably only has 10-15mm if travel and your probably not running much sag, so it’s much less likely to be a issue.
  6. I did mine with a file and a vice grip, works great
  7. I should have added - the race kit thing applies to offroad only really. There are plenty of decent touring car kits or F1 which are fine for the slower onroad classes. A TA07 or TB05 would be fine, or the Xpress X1QS (I think, the cheap version which is about US100), Sakura etc. They probably wouldn't be so good in mod but 21.5T classes are plenty fast enough, you don't need to run mod to have fun. F1 you can run a F104 and keep up too.
  8. A guy at my club (large outdoor dirt track, caters to 8th scale as well) ran an RC10 Worlds rerelease last season and the car did ok. He reckons the new RC10 B6 would've been worth 2sec a lap, which isn't that bad considering its a 40ish second lap. Being a rerelease it was all new though, so he didn't have the durability issue that you would have running an original. The best advice is to go to the club you want to run at and check it out. I visited a few clubs and found that the one I expected to race at I didn't really like so ended up joining the one about 3 times as far away. Check out what classes are popular, theres nothing worse than buying a car and then being the only one at the club who runs it. You'll get to run in open or something, but then you won't be able to race properly as the cars are all different. You'll also be able to work out who the guys chasing the final 10ths of a second are and buy one of their old cars off them, no doubt barely used with a bunch of hop ups for less than half what they paid for it. A great time to buy is when a new model has just been released as many people will upgrade to the newest when there is very little difference between the new and old models. I would get a race kit too, not an entry level kit and try to make it be able to race. Race kits are far more durable for a start, but you'll also find you're limited on things like gearing if you take say a DT02 and run it in 17.5T stock class, you just won't be able to get the right gear ratio for the motor and will be well off the pace.
  9. hey you've got an airbrush now... you should give alclad metallic colours a try! ...i think you'll like it.
  10. I say Blizzard. I run stock electronics on my old Blizzard and the controlling is easy with 2 motors connected to the same stick (just like joystick), you just have to run the stick 45 degrees to go straight. FR's electronics should work even smoother for this application. Sabertooth is good if you want to use a wheel radio.
  11. Thanks all, great advice. New car it is, will take a look at your suggestions on what to go for. Feel a lot better now that decision is made! I like the idea of him running the old classic, but the real life practicalities of it don’t stack up, at least for now...
  12. I should have added my club also run a short course class predominantly for noobs and kids. It gives you a chance to learn without feeling like you're constantly in the way. Any cheap 2wd or 4wd sc trucks, stadium trucks or trophy trucks are allowed with sensible motor limits to encourage close racing. Most run HPI Blitz or Helions equivalent. A couple of more serious guys run an Arma Senton and Traxxas Slash.
  13. Today I received... my eBay purchase TB-01. Haven't had time to look at it much yet, but at first glance it looks pretty ace.
  14. Some spanner time tonight finished converting my wt01 4x4x4 back in to two standard wt01s. I couldn’t get on with the former, it just felt heavy and dull. 2wd version seems much more to my liking, and has gone down well with the kids. I wince less when the wt01 crashes straight in to stuff too 2nd job was to fit the hop up suspension parts to my xv01t. It’s now a long damper version, with aluminium suspension blocks in the front. That should hopefully keep the arms on in it’s inevitable coming together with the wt01! 3rd job was in conclusive. Something not right in my Dancing Rider gearbox. I can hold both wheels, apply throttle and the motor rotates quite happily. However it’s not the pinion, as with the motor out, I can hold the pinion while applying throttle, and the motor whines and doesn’t rotate. Diff seems to work ok too. More experimenting tomorrow, does anyone have any suggestions?
  15. Today I received a set of TL-01 body mounts, which includes a useful cross brace extension piece which gives stability to taller post installations such as those used on the Suzuki Jimny and our Morris Minor teapot racers.
  16. My advice...find a club and find out what classes they race. Then find a suitable rig. My rc club is 50% Tamiya chassis. And the rest is assorted others. HPI, Traxxas, Arma, Schumacher and Xray are popular. The most common chassis by far is TT02 in the stock touring car class. (Silver cans) Originally it was a class for box stock HPI RS4. Now it is open to TT01, TT02, RS4 and even the odd MF01X. Some even run Schumacher Mi1 V2 with silver cans. So to say this or that isn't competitive really depends on the rest of the field. My TT02 is competitive and capable of a decent showing, when my thumbs are firing on all cylinders.
  17. If you want to become a better driver while also having loads of fun, I'd recommend a F1 chassis for on road use. By far the most challenging class of car in my on-road fleet, they produce a drive that is anything but boring, and extremely rewarding when you get it right. Used F103s can be picked up quite cheaply, and even a new F104 shouldn't cost a fortune.
  18. In the right conditions a RC10 can still be pretty competitive with the right driver. It has to be a track that suits the rear motor layout to be somewhat fair. I got a 6 gear car from one of my neighbors and ran in stock class one time with a old brushed motor which was hilarious. I even managed to get up into third place but I think the car broke out before the end. If your kid wants to race get a current gen team associated or whatever brand has the most local parts availability. He probably will want a car to run around the yard too so I think thats an excuse to get a couple of "fun" cars too. Members have already suggested some tamiya cars to get. Most tamiya cars are not competitive, but its far better for bashing than a race kit.
  19. I would definitely start with something new. For one thing, an RC10 with a Tekin 410K in it is a fairly prized collector's item - not that you should not use it, but it would be a shame to see it get used up, as it surely would in the hands of a young driver. Better to save it for later, after you're sure the hobby is going to "take." And second, I think it would be more special for him to start out with a brand-new kit that's just his. I would be looking at Tamiya DT-02 or DT-03 chassis cars. They're very similar architecture to the old RC10, but simplified a bit, generally tough as nails, easy to drive, and can be a decent club-level racer with a little practice and some well-chosen parts. Then, later, when he has learned how to really drive one of these things, let him take the RC10 to the track, and he'll be the coolest kid there. But make him pay his dues on his own car...
  20. hi, I have one. I might be interested in selling if I get a new car. PM me if you are still looking.
  21. Save the rc10 for a shelf or light use in the backyard. If wanting to stick with team associated they have the rc10 b6 line for 300, or ebay might have a used one for cheaper. If just having fun in the backyard i reccomend tamiya neo fighter.
  22. Screwed up what in my mind was a good idea (I wanted scales like a dragon) but looked rubbish. Tonight I managed to clean one side off using Revell paint remover and lots of effort. Will do the other side tomorrow bodge up: Cleaned off
  23. i think you guys will enjoy this:
  24. imho give him something current with parts that are easy to replace. i've no sprogs of my own but my nephews get to run the lunchbox. granted its not a racing rig but parts are easier to replace and its a hoot to bash.
  25. Hi, I need some advice. My kid is now 11 and wants to get into RC racing. I have an old RC10 from the late 80s with a couple of Reedy motors and tekin 410k from my racing days. I got the car out and everything still works like the day I packed it away.... brings back memories! Question is; for my son do I give him my rc10 or get a newer Traxaas or something? The rc10 and tekin feel slightly like precious antiques. I haven’t investigated the new cars much yet but if they are anything like the Losi’s that came out as I stopped racing then the rc10 whilst beautiful is starting to show its age on the track. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  26. Helmet trims painted. Rather than TS cans I used the manual specified XF-1 as I now have an airbrush: The faces are brush painted and the eyes done with a cocktail stick. As with seemingly every Tamiya face moulding, this method annoyingly gives one perfectly round pupil and one not so round. I fitted the steering wheel and dashboard sticker so the cockpit is now finished: One final bit of painting then it's on to assembly. The mirror needs the reflective surface painted silver, not the whole surface though, there's a border. I cut some circular masks for this. First up is one the same diameter as the mirror to ensure it's central: Then a couple of larger ones to guard against overspray, plus tape over the back: Previously I would have had to use the TS equivalent or close match to the manual specified X-11 Chrome Silver, and waist a ton of paint spraying such a small area. Not any more though - airbrushed X-11:
  27. Busdriver

    Wild One

    Oops just realised that my last post may be deemed un pc. Apologies if I have offended and Admin please remove if you feel I have overstepped the mark. Apologies again from 61 year old, old fogey!!!!😞
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