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  2. Blista

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    First day of painting down. Three days to go. Am I the only one who keeps a list of what to paint on which days? I'm paranoid I'll do something out of order or forget something. Only minor stuff today on the M06 Silvia. I feel a bit nervous about painting the Unimog tomorrow. I'm going for something a bit different and I'm not sure if it will suit it.
  3. nbTMM

    measuring flexibility/stiffness

    My train of thought is that flex in the chassis acts as part of the suspension however it is an undamped spring which is not good for car control. A rigid chassis allows the wheel movement to be fully controlled by the intended suspension which can be properly damped. If the car seems to drive better with a flexible chassis compared to a rigid chassis then either the suspension spring rate and/or damper rate is too high, or the geometry of the suspension (particularly camber gain) needs tweaking. Lower spring and damper rates, and more camber gain should make a rigid chassis feel more like a flexible chassis however with more control (less bouncy) Same goes for flexible suspension arms, links, strut towers etc - they add undamped springs to the suspension.
  4. RETRO R/C

    Schumacher upkeep

    The original cats were not very efficient because of the belts and the way they caused friction when hitting each other, side plates and well, it just took a tonne of work to get them truly working efficiently. There was a lot of friction throughout the car - something that top drivers worked on. The differentials could be troublesome to get smooth as the mouldings sometimes weren't perfect and made seating the diff plates difficult. So many little tricks to getting the transmissions right. They were a very "pitchy" car to drive because of the relatively long suspension arms and narrow track - making the car very "nose" dominant to drive. This resulted in the team drivers bolting two front suspension bulkheads together to widen the track at the font and wider mountings used at the rear to gain some stability. In the end, the information filtered down as did the modifications. There were many tricks used to get the transmissions smooth, not just in CATS either. I hope to share these and more little gems in the future.
  5. G'day peeps Need help with restoring my Falcon plastics Firstly I have a practice bumper (see pic) so I am willing to try different methods. I know I'm not going to get the deep scratches out and have so far sanded half the bumper with 400, 1200 and 2000 grit wet and dry. I am happy with the smoothness however as you can see in the pic it has a milky white appearance now. Have I done something wrong or is there a way of restoring the black finish? Will the same thing happen with the chassis and other harder plastic parts? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Chris
  6. Today
  7. Mark3gti

    The TB Chassis Thread

    Thanks I’m not so sure! 😬
  8. Juls1


    Never had a problem with points before, The code is always on the shipping box. This prevents points being stolen by someone else maybe? I always have to select to spend my credits. The points are not worth alot, but then remember that rcmart is cheap to begin with, many of the companys that offer big points rewards are charging alot more to begin with. Juls
  9. S-PCS

    Schumacher upkeep

    Yeah, and fuel injection has only been around for what, 120 years? It's really no alternative
  10. S-PCS

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I just took out one of the O-rings on each side, that kind of solves the problem. Ideally, I would have removed 0.75 o-rings, but... yeah, it'll do for shelf duty. The only times I've ever lost drive shafts on HS family cars is when I broke control arms, in which case no amount of o-rings would have helped anyway. I thought about taping the servo down, but it just seems like the servo is supposed to float by design... Why else would you be instructed to grease the contact patch between C7 and the tub? And between tub and rack-and-pinion cover, for that matter? I can see the point, it's just that on left turns, all that's holding the servo down is the yellow esc mount, which is not really attached to anything on its left side. I could use 3M Super Strength automotive tape, the stuff used to stick body moldings and emblems to 1:1 cars (easily strong enough to tape the bowling ball directly to the storm, skipping the chimney, so to speak), but then again, I just don't know. It'll work in any case, I mean even standard taped servos work, see the SRBs, kind of. You just can't call it an engineering solution if it relies on sticky tape. For a 1986 race-engineered top of the line buggy, it really leaves a lot to be desired. No problem there, unless you really wanted to stick to the instructions. I think I'll do a HS car suspension and drive shaft slop comparison today.
  11. Jonathon Gillham

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Went racing, on Easter Sunday. I was on the fence since you know, easter, family stuff. But ,y wofe asked my son what his favourite thing is and he said "to go racing" and I wasn't there to encourage him, so we went racing. It was an 8th day and his car is in bits so he ran my Lazer. Which is now in bits. It must've been close to breaking already, but anyway, new c hubs ordered. Being easter sunday it was a quiet day, only 30 nitro buggies. So they ran 30min mains for everyone, so I had my longest race ever, 30min. Concentration started going at the 25min mark, but it was so much fun. That's basically a 10th day racing 2 cars in 1 race. Started 6th, finished 5th, happy with that. Thats the C main of course, but I think thats my 3rd nitro race meet, I opened my second bottle of fuel.
  12. Indeed, thanks for the tips These then really came down in price * nice * , indeed, that will be for step 2 or something. And .. yeah, a real 2A6 can take the water real good .. We will find out soon(tm) if the model was up to it * lol * Thats a bridge to cross later . Lolfact, yesterday i was busy getting the 2 FG's back in action . ( as they are basically most close to be RTR again ) Fixing the hydraulic brakes and needed to get a servo thingy back in place ( next to , cleaning them ) That decade of standing still really did a number on them. And what you do , i had to of course.. re align the servo's .. ( 0- them ) for refitting the horns. Seriously .. not a single 6V source in the house to be found ( so.. got to wait for my order ) More fun.. found back m03 mini ( new ! ) and a TT01 bmw M3 , the one in Jagermeister colors , also new. Wife eyes go bigger and bigger, wondering where the badword i keep pulling those **** cars from
  13. Nicadraus

    Stolen Fav

    Sorry to hear this. Your FAV looks so nice though.
  14. That doesn't look like a charger. It will drain one cell with higher voltage, down to equilibrium. IMAX B6 costs not much more than that. B6 balances too. Back in the days, something like imax b6, would cost $200. Now it's about $35-$40. The mini version is tiny too--just about 4inch (10cm) across. There is nothing wrong with starting slowly. Get a cheap NiMH, and when you are fully back into RC, get a LiPo. The difference is the amp drain. Especially with hotter motors or brushless motors. TT02b would go 58km/h with a 10.5t motor, but it would go 66km/h with LiPo. 10% improvement isn't too bad just for switching the battery. Something to look forward to in the future. OMG... lol... it survived the fire in Baghdad, but not the water? I hope it survived, or at least easily fixable.
  15. Installed old school Futaba Servo And RX, and manufactured a steering linkage as per the manual, even found a round servo horn like what was used originally
  16. salvine

    Wanted - BMW Z4 Hatsune miku bodyshell

    Heres one
  17. WillyChang

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Original Bigwig ran an MSC with BEC so there's room in there for the second servo too. Everything needed to be tidied out if the way to close the chassis top plate.
  18. WillyChang

    Help With ReRe Egress equipment

    Is cool, is good! Means it's running efficiently & not wasting energy to heat. Have got similar ~3000kV combo from SpeedPassion in Avante & Egress, they barely get warm too. They go more than fast enough so haven't bothered trying to gear up. Fan on ESC sounds a bit loud... thinking of disconnecting it if it's not really needed
  19. WillyChang

    Schumacher upkeep

    I don't think Schumachers were any different to RCs of that era like Associated/Delta/PB, you just had to know "how to build them right" to get a decent reliable car. Associated & Delta instructions were just typewritten text 2-3 pages no pictures BiTD Carbs do go out of tune when clueless owners try fiddling with the screws, or move stuff and cause airleaks when gaskets aren't renewed, or... Carby expertise dying out too... both local Holley & Wilson/SU shops have closed down, dunno where to go for service anymore.
  20. Looking for a Subaru Brat hard body, used or new, what is available
  21. Juggular

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Yeah, I've seen somebody running like that. There are few Tamiya cars with that problem. I realized that Tamiya instructions aren't some religious texts, so I learned to be flexible. You can use one O-ring, or the pink sponge thing Tamiya sells. Whatever could remove the slop and still not bind. I made mini springs out of a ball-point pen and put them in. The way Tamiya did the servo is weird, indeed. No bolt or anything! Maybe Tamiya instruction missed out the double-sided tape under the servo? I thought I was supposed to put double sided tape under the servo supporter thingies, attaching them to the chassis. Tamiya instructions are known to miss things once in a while. But even if you don't use the double sided tape under the B1 and B7 columns, the neck is secured by the C7 collar. B1 and B7 columns are there so the servo wouldn't twist up and down. I was concerned about the strength of one piece of double-sided tape under the small footprint of B1 and B7. I was going to use the ultra strong 5 pound red tape. (Seriously, that stuff might keep a bowling ball attached to the side of a chimney in a stormy day.) But amazingly, even with the regular double-sided tape, the servo worked fine in a parking lot run. The servo would be really secure because of the tapes top and bottom of the servo. I didn't use the cover for now... ESCs and RXs are so small these days, there is plenty of room also. ECO20 ESC uses the bottom casing as a heatsink. So, instead of using a piece of double-sided tape, I used two screws and a zip tie to keep it in place. I also cut a square piece from the flexible yellow sprue, and screwed it so the wire won't touch the rotating shaft. That's one screw for the cover, and the other one is securing the ESC by hooking a ziptie, in my case.
  22. Yesterday
  23. I want too make a set of these wheels too runs Brat tires front and rear and understand I need wheels covers but what wheel covers do I need and from what kit, so I can order what I need to make me some
  24. Depending on price I would be interested in a set of rear arms. Two if the price is right.
  25. svenb

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Arrived today thanks to @OCD Possibly the final hop up part needed😀 Don't really want to open it!
  26. svenb

    The TB Chassis Thread

    Neater wiring than any of mine😉👍
  27. JennyMo

    ebaYJ - aka. "Daydream B'leafer"

    I managed to unpack some of my RC spares and tools that arrived from the UK this week, including of course some ice for Ozzy's fridge! It's thirsty work this trail driving... (on private land of course!) Jx
  28. qatmix

    The TB Chassis Thread

    Looking good!
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