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  2. Thanks for the detailed reply. A bit of a shame that setup broke, I had stumbled across it via Google. I'm not generally all that hard on my cars, but would likely end up running a hottish setup in it, so maybe that isn't the answer. Any recommendations on a good price for the CVA kit and how would you rate it vs something like this: https://www.jk-rc.co.uk/tamiya-mad-bull/tamiya-mad-bull-aluminium-upgrade-oil-damper-shock-set-by-absima-1-p
  3. I don't have a Blitzer, although one is on my 'want' list. Is it this brushless setup you have? https://www.absima.shop/RC-ACCESSORIES/RC-Electronic/Brushless-Motor-ESC/Brushless-Combo-Set-Thrust-BL-ECO-1-10.htm?shop=absima_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=2120002&t=19114&c=19130&p=19130 Looks like the motor is rated at 10T. The specs say 11T off road for 2S and 14T off road for 3S Personally I'd suspect 3S would be way too much power in a Blitzer and likely to end in tears. 2S might work quite nice however and be more than speedy, although you may need to watch heat buildup off road, but suspect it'll be ok. As for your VX-01, space is tight in these, so you'll likely need to extend wires, either through plug in wire extensions or soldering. The brushless system will work well in such a car IMO. Although you may find a 15T a little lack luster in the Blitzer. I run a VX-01T which is the truck version of platform, called Asterion. I use this ESC/motor combo in mine in a 9T form: https://www.skyrc.com/Leopard It runs really well and is more than fast enough IMO. Never ran it on 3S and wouldn't, 2S is plenty. Although I would say sensorless setups are not as smooth on the throttle and much more on/off feeling compared to brushed or sensored setups. I would image your 10T setup would go quite similar. Not the best vid and not really demonstrating top speed, but maybe give you an idea:
  4. Today
  5. it was the ts paint that cracked/split and it was all over the shell and the wheel fenders. i did try another tamiya can last year for my bruiser as i brought some fender flairs and painted them but again the paint even still to this day feels sticky on them so as i said i won't use tamiya paint again. i have had nothing but excelant results with the custom paints i have mixed up here is the last truck i used custom paints on
  6. I've recently purchased a couple of Carson Reflex 3 wheels with telemetry, and some additional receivers so I can try to standardise on two common multi-device transmitters (I have a mixture of transmitters that were bundled with car's dependent mainly on who I bought them from). The telemetry was a nice to have, but the guide is very poor on documentation of how to set these up. There are references to stickers, and a simple diagram (and very dark picture) that show the optical sensor pointing directly at the motor pinion gear (not something that tends to be accessible inside the chassis). It looks like this is based on watching RPM of the motor or shaft. Frankly, I (probably naively) assumed speed was going to use some form of accelerometer. Has anyone set one of these up before, and can you provide some guidance or pictures? I'm pretty close to just ditching the sensors, and living with needlessly oversized receivers. The price was good, so it's not the end of the world. I'm using these in re-re Boomerang, re-re Avante, and will also use in an in-progress TT-02B, and potentially an Optima Turbo if I stay on Santa's good list... Thanks for your help.
  7. That abisma brushless system is the same as the hobbywing base model sensorless brushless. It’s actually a pretty darn powerful, it dramatically outperforms a 10.5t sensored system In terms of outright wheelie popping torque and power. The performance is very similar to Traxxas’s velineon system. Being a sensorless setup I think that motor really better suits the blitzer beetle much more than the XV01, the gearbox and car will be fine provided you do not fit big heavy grippy tires. Try to stick to more moderately weighted/grippy tires. I would start out with the lightest gearing, if the motor isn’t super hot after a run you can gear it higher and will get both more torque and speed. (Proline badlands are an example of a heavy overly grippy tire, that will probably cause that motor combo to wear the drivetrain and other components faster than desired.) (Something like Louise 2.8 ST (not MT) uphill would be a good compromise) As for the XV01, I suggest you find a 2S lipo that will fit inside both the blitzer beetle and the xv01. That won’t be easy as both cars are tricky fitment. You’ll need something fairly slim and small over something big. Suggest something around 4000mah+ minimum 20C. why go to 7.4v 2S lipo over your 7.2v nimh? Outright performance, run time and less weight. your probably thinking but it’s only .2v more? Actually a 7.4v lipo fully charged runs at well over 8V performance wise it’s equivalent to a 8.4V nimh in voltage, but the current draw capability of the lipo is superior so it feels dramatically more powerful. You’ll get more power, more torque and more RPM. simply put switching to lipo is going to give you probably a 20% boost on your current setup in the XV01. Might tide you over till you can afford a nice sensored brushless system for it. some food for thought.
  8. Looking for a set of Tamiya trf touring car shocks
  9. Looking for a Tamiya trf 415 or 415 ms roller. Touring car.
  10. Went home at lunch time and grabbed the old rear tyres. Sizes are approx. as they are a bit deformed and the only ruler I have in the office, where the measure starts, the markers have been rubbed off Didn't have time to get the fronts off the car, bit of a drive home and back in an hour !
  11. I have 2 pairs of these that are still new in the packet. £40 per pair posted in the UK. Overseas shipping prices will be at cost.
  12. There's double link conversion on thingiverse which I tried and it worked well but had some design flaws and it broke after a few runs. As you can see, it integrates nicely with no alterations: But after a few runs I suffered this breakage: To be fair, I was hammering it ruthlessly at the time so it could have been a one-off but it definitely broke at what I already suspected would be the weakest part, an area where there just isn't much material holding the thing together. I haven't written it off altogether and I do have another set that I will try out at the beach at some point but I think the design definitely has a weakness in that one area. If I only had a brain I would try and beef the design up but I'm useless with 3d software. If you search these forums, there's a thread somewhere and a few people tried different approaches and there was one guy who managed to do it with a few Tamiya parts that seemed to work well and is probably the toughest solution. In all honesty though, I dont think the stock setup is all that bad really, it at least articulates well and tries to follow the terrain. It might have crazy camber changes but I don't think it really hurts it in the typical usage scenario. The rear end is the weak link really because although Tamiya made a lot of changes with the DT01 to try and make the rear end work, it still locks up under throttle just like the Grasshopper/Hornet etc. I would suggest the DT03 CVA kit as a first step just to settle the ride a little then maybe look at the double wishbone type front end. Edit: This was the conversion using Tamiya parts that stood out to me as simple but effective:
  13. There is a difference . The front have a smaller diameter than the rear . No sizes given so you have either a pair of front or rear . Another member here will probably have the sizes to confirm . Member MRMARUI22 may be able to help with this :)
  14. I've got a manual for this car , I'll check later and see if there is an answer
  15. I assume you have fully charged batteries in both car and transmitter ? . Did the car run properly at any time that you have owned it ? . Is the transmitter the right one for the car ? . Are the TX and RX crystals changeable ? . I have Tamiya 1/14th quick drives with PCB's in them and they can get twitchy . Make sure you fully entend the TX ariel and try not to run the car near other electrical items , ie indoors , have you tried it outside ? . Check the ariel on the car and a quick look at the PCB to see if there are any obvious loose connections , Check car and TX battery springs for green corrosion from battery leakage .
  16. Doesw anyone here definitively know if there is a difference between the front and rear tyres on the Marui CJ7/Land Cruiser Jeeps, and if so how you can tell which from which if you've only got one pair?
  17. You're welcome. I only use brass bearings, they work great if you grease them right and I like their vintage look.
  18. This would have been such a good deal if only I had seen it...
  19. I have the FS-i6 (don't think it is the X version). I use it with some of my RC cars such as my Konghead and my Arrma Raider BLX. I bought it because Rx's are cheap and available for it. It will also bind with older RX's too, although I had to find a YouTube vid to figure out how. Overall I have no complaints with it. Ok it might look a little plasticky, but it feels fine to use. The menu system is a bit weird too, you have to hold Cancel rather than Enter to actually confirm selections when switching models and things. It has a ratchet left stick as you'd get on a plane/helicopter, i.e. it holds position rather than self centering. You can buy a kit off ebay to make it self centre however. I did buy this, but have actually never fitted it, I found it was actually quite natural to manually pull the stick back anyway. Just make sure you don't knock it by accident though. For the money I would certain recommend.
  20. hmm, that's not too far at all from me at all. I'm South side, work out of Loganholme. That will be my next issue, working out freight for overseas orders, Australia Post doesn't make it easy cheers, I'm working on the design being as compact as possible, to mainly reduce material waste, but it will also help with postage. Like many people here, I have a heap of cars, so I want the stand to be as cost effective as possible, so I can make a heap of them! I will at some point offer them for sale, and then comes the really hard part, working out a good price.
  21. I might give sticks a go, something different as I have always used a wheel transmitter.
  22. The Super Clod Buster is equipped with two motors and tightly sealed gearboxes that have been molded as one piece with axle housing.... From https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58321clod/index.htm
  23. I've always wanted a Mad Bull, simply love the styling of it and in many ways has the recipe for a great buggy basher. Thanks to another member on here posting about 20% discounts at Euro car parts, I have at long last ordered one!!! However, I'm fully aware the front suspension is somewhat crude, and you can see in YouTube vids that it does somewhat let the vehicle down. Does anyone offer any upgrades to improve it at all? I don't recall anything AMPRO but haven't looked for a while. I need to get some bearings ordered, anything else I should be considering?
  24. You're having a good week Erich , awesome , it looks great .
  25. I remember looking at the CB in wonder in the old catalogues. I always wondered how it worked, with the two motors etc For steering, did it have two servos? And, what were they like to drive? I always imagined them being quite slow, but fun and bouncy like a Lunchbox.
  26. Thankfully there’s never 20% off the items I would buy 🤪
  27. I'm about 10,000 miles away and I'd like 26 sets😕
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