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  1. Past hour
  2. ...resprayed some old, yellowed plastic bits.
  3. Today
  4. Yes, note the wire colors when you plug it in. Black is ground, red is power, white and yellow are signal.
  5. Sort of fits this thread...can anyone suggest a JIS screwdriver that isn't part of a set? I have all the tools I need except what Tamiya would call a large JIS (for 3mm to 5mm screws). RCMart have the medium for 2mm - 2.6mm screws but thats too small. What other brands make JIS?
  6. true, however the reason I pointed out the difference is that a while ago a new member posted a panic message explaining how he was having difficulty in soaking his decals in water to get the backing to slide off and the using microset/sol to bed them down. He had been watching a Youtube demo on how to apply decals and did not realise that most RC cars in fact use stickers.
  7. Actually I have a Redbull set from MCI that isnt cut. As you say maybe theyve only started recently
  8. Airbrushed bodies in the sun hardening up the paint before I cut engine holes All done in pearl colours. I told my mate what colours I wanted and let him come up with the design. I like the “Ford” grill - makes it my very own “Raptor” 😂
  9. one of the TT-01's looks to be a TT-01D. you can tell by the smaller foam bumper, red oil dampers, adjustable upper arms and tierods. should also have ballbearings. the blue aluminium drive shaft is a upgrade part bought separate. looks like it is missing some screws.
  10. For an XV-01 it came out to be about half the price of the Yeah Racing titanium screw kit for the same car. I bought them online from China. I had to go through he manual and count all of the screws, but forgot about the different screws used by the various hop ups. Good thing I ordered extras! Also got titanium nuts and washers. Only problems were that the maximum length I could find was 20mm per screw and the smaller M2 screws Seem to have a thread pitch that looks to be too fine for me to feel comfortable using.
  11. Ok another update - been waiting for an important missing piece - the TBG shell. Yeah it took almost eight weeks due to our slow postal service. One week to arrive from Canada, and seven weeks for our local PO to sort out. Go figure. So whilst waiting for the shell I've stripped, cleaned and re-assembled the suspension: And after almost thirty years, its first set of new boots! Compared to the old set - thought initially they were the wrong size, but they fit fine. Also tried my hand at painting tyre markings - turned out ok I think? (I did clean & respray the wheels afterwards) Also got thundershot upgrade bits from pargustore - the all important A5 reinforcement, plus alu wheel adapters and a rear suspension mount. I learned that the rear suspension mount can be inverted so I did that to add a bit of rear toe-in. The alu mount meant I couldn't use screw pins, so stainless steel rods were procured. Would have changed the fronts to stainless as well but the new A5 reinforcement plate prevented that, so the screw pins had to stay: Yes the A5 is already cracked! Will have to order a new one... So this is how the chassis looked while waiting for the new shell. I've mounted the old MSC, servo and resistor. They're just for show though, The plan is to fit in an ESC. Then it finally arrived! ...shell cut and quick test fit I did get the MCI masks for the windows. They fit perfectly. I didn't use the mask for the rear window though - there was no such rear window in the original manual? The masks were in vinyl so I could wash the body after applying it. Here it is after painting: I used metallic blue as that was the colour when I first got it (my dad had the shop paint the shell and finish the body). Masked the rear vent (for silver) and cut a hole for the resistor. Backed the metallic blue with light silver (unmasked for the vent). Then final coat was in black. Also applied some gorilla tape to where my previous shell got badly scratched - hopefully this mitigates. With the MCI stickers applied - pretty straightforward. The MCI set is a bit thicker then the originals though. Its looking so pristine now I almost don't wanna run it! But not done yet... the next bit I've been kinda putting off - the chassis cover/driver figure. I'm no good at it! Here's the original. Why those colours? I was into model tanks and planes as a kid and those were the only colours I had: olive drab,... brown... black... I did get a new cover + driver so I think I'll just paint up a new one. Also realised the originals white wheels are hard to get, hence procured an el cheapo set of buggy wheels for running. Bonus is it adds some ground clearance. Actually haven't made my mind up what motor to install. Probably the torque tuned that came with the other kits.... or maybe a mild brushless.... or maybe it'll just sit on the shelf...
  12. Yesterday
  13. My XV01 pro came with the white translucent diff gears and so did my M08. Now I’ve had my XV01 for 9 years and it still has the original translucent gears, front and back. So I wouldn’t bother with trying to get the black version.. the white are plenty durable and I didn’t think they’re merely nylon!
  14. Painting bodies can be daunting but practice makes perfect. Try painting inexpensive bodies. I have a bunch of worthlessness 1/10 pan car bodies I try out color combos on
  15. You can use lipo battery’s with tble-02s if your sensible enough to stop running the moment performance significantly drops, then reset the float voltage to storage level on the same day. been doing that for many years, never damaged a lipo yet. Problems come if you just keep running till the car is really limping. Then you can over discharge. the reason I say this, is jumping from the nimh to a 7.4v lipo is a good 15-20% boost in both power and speed over a 7.2v nimh. If fact a 7.4v lipo is about the same as running a 8.4v nimh performance wise. Motor limits are an approximation of the expected current draw of a certain motor turns. In the case of the TBLE-02S the continuous rating is 60A. In the case of the hobbywing 1060, it is also 60A. (The hobbywing 1060 is significantly more capable than the TBLE-02s despite the same current rating). If the continuous current draw is significantly breached the TBLE-02S will go into thermal overload and switch off. The max current draw of any motor depends a lot on the gearing, the harder the gearing the greater current is required to move the vehicle. Thus if one was to run a easier gearing the motor would run more efficiently and therefore pull less current from the esc. appropriate gearing will in theory would allow you to run almost any combination of turn motor with almost any esc. However the limitation of gearing options will effect how well you can achieve maximum efficiency of any motor. in short, a heavy vehicle that’s overgeared will potentially overheat the esc with a silver can. But a light vehicle with easy gearing may well run a low turn motor all day no problem at all. in short the limitation is in fact the current rating, the turn limit is a relatively arbitrary number, to be used as a guide only. Brushless motors are dramatically more energy efficient this is why you can run a much faster brushless motor vs brushed on the same Amp rating. to finally throw another spanner in the works, the other variable is motor timing, while most budget motors don’t have adjustable timing, many quality motors do offer adjustable timing, generally the more timing you run the greater speed and performance you get, however this is always at the cost of efficiency and it’s generally necessary to alter gearing ratios to manage heat/efficiency when timing increases, it’s not free power after all. So it may be possible to run a 15T brushed but it’s likely to need to be set to 0 timing for max efficiency. Closed can motors generally hav timing built in. The way to tell is if the motor goes faster forward than reverse (at equal voltage, not limited by esc or radio) then it has positive timing, if they go the same speed then the timing is 0. This is important on chassis like WR01 (wild dagger, dual hunter) as it runs 2 motors and one goes backwards. in short, you can put whatever you like on the TBLE-02S, worst thing will happen it’ll overheat and turn off. Telling you the motor is working too hard for your esc vs your vehicle weight and gearing possibility’s.
  16. Another question for you guys. I just tried to plug the ESC into the reciever and it doesn't fit. The ESC plug has like a tab on the side of it. Is this something I cut off with a model knife or is there and adapter? I uploaded a couple of images thanks again
  17. There is something else popping up in my head. Don't know how fast you want to go with the TL01 but in theory you can fit a 26T pinion by using the second, smaller gear - the one which is closer to the opening on the opposite side of the motor - instead of the bigger one. And at the motor side by using the two holes they are off center, in case you motor has these holes (I hope it makes sense ) I have installed a 11T super modified motor and it does 51mph with 2S brushed. The position on the 3 fixed mounting holes are changing now and that allows you to install a far larger pinion gear.
  18. So howd this finish up? Where are the pics of that gorgeous body?
  19. Hopefully you won't be disappointed! The quality appears very good, much better than the cheap MG995 and some of the random S3003 equivalent's I've seen in the past. I suspect they are actually the same servo as the Trackstar TS-D99X just with a slightly different case but haven't opened them up to compare (and won't, since then I'd have to take the Trackstar servo out of a car and that just seems all too hard)
  20. Thank you for the info! I just ordered 2 of them!! (Just so you know, I wasn't the guy who needed a servo, but why not? I can't refuse a good servo--especially if it's cheap, fast and strong)
  21. Price ish? is it the same one that suits the dancing rider? JJ
  22. I’ve had a few 3rd party watches I had a Motorola one for a bit and all the watch would do woukd give me notifications so gave up JJ
  23. Will post a like here once it's listed up. Might do it tonight.
  24. That's not a venturi or ground effect, though. That's the same process as takes place above and below an aerofoil wing. The accelerated air over the curved surface of the top of the paper creates a low-pressure area which sucks the paper upwards – if the curved area had been solid then it would have had the same effect on the whole unit, as it does on aircraft, which is what generates lift and flight.
  25. Hmm that depends on condition and price, always room for another shelf
  26. Wiring... With the painting and detailing essentially finished, it was time to make a start on the wiring. Initially I had hoped (as I've achived with all* my other builds) to have a battery compartment which would accept a traditional 6-cell NiMh pack... I mean, you gotta have rules, right? *the only exception being Desmond my 4WS crawler which uses a block shaped 6-cell battery, although I'm currently revamping that layout too to allow some quick change stick packs for extended running in future. However, while I had managed to create a compartment under the bench seat which could contain a 6-cell pack, the packaging was so tight once the shell was fitted that I felt in this instance, a more compact battery solution would need to be employed; and that in using the same size battery that I'd fitted to the Lil'Scamp (Willy's Rocker Mk3) recently, I could effectively have a pair of 2600mAh batteries - one under each seat - one to power the vehicle and the other dedicated to the winch - and that, like the dual battery set-up in the ebaYJeep too, either battery can also be connected to the ESC to extend the running time. Sweet! photo. battery tray/floorpan scratch-built from 1.5mm styrene. Initially I planned to fit the ESC on the raised panel between the two batteries - however, it turned out the compact Modelsport Viper ESC was thin enough to fit vertically on the engine bulkhead, meaning that all the electronics are contained in the space behind the interior footwells, including the wireless receiver for the winch control (on the far right) - leaving just the batteries and connector plugs under the seat itself. In an effort to minimise the bulk of wiring under the seat, I also departed from my usual Tamiya style battery connectors, and instead used more compact Deans connectors for this particular installation - making up a pig-tail so that I can still charge the smaller batteries with my existing charger. I can confirm that late last night, everything was finally fitted together, and that the HiLux is at last rolling under it's own power - complete with lights! So now all I'm waiting for is the second battery to arrive, plus some additional LEDs as the pair I'd initially installed in the tail-light assemblies seem to have gone on the fritz for some reason? More soon! Jenny x
  27. the paint should be fine. you still should be careful as too much heat will melt the sticker first before it affects the paint. trust me i know!
  28. I was looking at a local website and saw an rc lot listing that says 2x TT01 chassis and an ISHIPLA chassis, and that ishipla looks like a Celica GRB chassis from what I've seen on google images. According to the listing ishipla chassis is missing drive shafts and rear the suspension arms are broken. From what I see it's also missing rear springs and front body mounts could be broken. What else do you guys see ? All 3 chassis is listed for $68 (luckily my currency is confetti). Also I don't know anything about road cars, I had to google TT01 to check. I'm still not sure if it's a Celica chassis though. What do you guys think ? Should I buy them, keep Celica, sell TT's to repair Celica ? Or Should I pass since finding parts for the Celica might be costy ? Customs is very strict also. Thanks in advance for help and opinions.
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