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  2. Sold the M06 chassis today. It was a nice surprise to sell so quickly since I had thought I'd probably end up with it gathering dust until I eventually figured out something to do with it. I've also rebuilt my front XV01 diff using the guide on TheRCRacer: https://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/how-to-build-perfect-tamiya-gear-diff.html I decided to leave the rear diff as it is since it hasn't leaked (yet). More XV01 bits are on their way before I rebuild the chassis.
  3. Today
  4. Oh man!!! Here I am again! DS parts being made and I have no DS!
  5. That arrma esc may only work with the arrma motor so another 35 , not sure but might be locked too only work with the arrma motor. I would get this motor and eventually some metal diff joints and universals http://www.rcmart.com/quicrun-brushless-sensored-system-120a-135t-blackg2-motor-ya021-p-75023.html?http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-tt02017-sample-p-36592.html?cPath= http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-steelalum-universal-shaft-tamiya-tt01-tt01e-tt02-tt015v2rd-p-25584.html? http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-tt02017-sample-p-36592.html?cPath=595_744_1585
  6. Argh I hate masking for paint jobs, especially if the stickers are not going to cover the join..
  7. With regards to the underpan, I found this after a lot of searching: An article from Motorsport magazine from 2002 about the McLaren M23 F1 car. 'They didn't grasp the opportunity in the way Lotus eventually would, but the side-skirts that appeared on M23 during 1975 were the most professional-looking and effective of their type. That large underbody area (previously considered a design no-no) was paying increasing dividends, too, especially when the sidepods were extended to the rear wheels in 1975. Suspension movement was consistently reduced to keep the track/car interface as close and as consistent as possible. And a NACA duct was let into the floor under the driver to create an area of negative pressure inside the cockpit. "We weren't particularly aware of ground effect in 1973," admits Coppuck. "We knew we were generating downforce from the underside, but had no accurate measurement. All we could do was try an idea and see if the driver liked it. We had, though, always found that bigger was better. The bigger the plan area, the more downforce."' I do not quite understand why a large, flat floor creates downforce, but I can only presume that it somehow streamlines and accelerates the airflow under the car, creating a low-pressure area underneath. Albeit one nowhere near as marked as the ones produced by the venturi tunnels under full ground effect cars like the Lotus 79. Anyway, bedtime. Hope some of that is useful to you.
  8. Yesterday
  9. That all seems very sensible. The underpan won't seal the underside on its own (the wheel arches will still allow the pressure inside the outside the car to equalise), but it will help keep things stable. Another thing to do is give the car a slightly nose-down attitude, as that will create downforce from the airflow over the body. It will create drag, too, though, so there is an optimum pitch angle to be found. Weights will obviously help keep the nose down, but will increase net weight and reduce top speed correspondingly. But it may be that the extra stability allows you to unlock performance you were losing out on due to other performance issues. The only way to find out is trial and error, really. Good luck!
  10. I ended up buying a GT style body for this TT02 but I would need to tuck all my electronics down low to make it fit. Also this body feels very thin. I decided to keep the Tamiya Raikiri body as I think its low enough and has enough aerodynamics to get me to 100mph, and the quality feels much better. Im also going to add an under pan made of carbon fiber. I think sealing the bottom should help. Also I may add a few stick on weights to the front of the underpan doesnt work on its own. Its my goal to do 100mph with a Tamiya and run a Tamiya body.😀
  11. Hmm. The Arrma is a strange hybrid indeed and it's interesting that they've scaled it up to 1:7, presumably because bigger cars deal better with the inevitable issues facing scale models trying to achieve high speeds. There is presumably a sweet spot on the scale range, probably a bit bigger than 1:10, where the advantages (higher power-to-weight ratio, lower absolute drag, lower friction losses) and the disadvantages (poor aero response, proportionate reaction to road imperfections and obstructions, instability) are both at their mosrt favourable. Perhaps 1:7 is it? I am not certain of how effective their diffuser will be, but it's a better effort than anything I've seen at 1:10 scale and they have at least attempted to unify it with some sort of unified aero scheme, at least at the back. The fact I could see daylight under the leading edge doesn't bode well and I doubt it works anywhere near as well as they undoubtedly claim, but somebody has at least thought about it. The front is a bit of a mess and has no real aero devices at all, since the front wings are just narrower versions of the "buckets" seen on the backs of buggies and have no aerofoil or ground effect shapes. Even worse, the airflow is disrupted just in front of the front axle by a chunky pair of oil-filled shocks, the same devices which render any attempt at aerodynamics in 1:10 buggies pointless. It is also not a ringing endorsement of the aero package on the Limitless that several of the owners on the first page of images had removed as much of Arrma's attempts at aerodynamics as they could, presumably to save weight, reduce drag and increase speed. Nice try, but no cigar I fear.
  12. Even if you get it apart, you won't like what you find. The brushes are not really replaceable like in open-endbell motors. They're attached to the inside of the endbell on sort of a leaf-spring-like arrangement. I don't even know if you can get replacements for the brushes. And putting it all back together would try the patience of a monk. Basically, keep them as-is for display, and replace them with something else for running...
  13. Also, aerodynamics does not scale down at all. It always works at 1:1 scale, but with wings and aero devices which are working at considerably below-scale efficiency. Somebody on a previous thread tried to argue that a 1:10 F1 car would act the same as a 1:1 F1 car, as it had scale wings. Unfortunately it doesn't, as the scale F1 does not have the vital underfloor aero devices and it's wings are not a tenth of the size, but 1/1000 of the size, as the dimensions of the wing have been reduced to 1/10 of their original size in all three dimensions.
  14. Aero yes, to a certain extent. Ground effect, no. Ground effect relies on there being a space under the car which is sealed around the edges in order to create a low-pressure area and effectively suck the car to the ground. This is inctedibly hard to do at small scales, as Lexan bodies flex so much and imperfections to the road surface will be encountered on a 1:1 scale and will affect the cars proportionately. Furthermore, and most importantly, it is impossible to generate ground effect on most 1:10 cars as they do not have a conventional floor. @nbTMM's suggestion of a low-pressure area under the shell would work if the apertures for the wheelarches were sealed in some way, but as they're not, any pressure differential under there will be minimal, as the lower pressure air under the shell will just suck high pressure air in from outside past the wheels and through the gap between the shell and the road. He is right about the wings on pan cars and buggies creating downforce, but it comes less from aero effects and more from simple Newtonian physics, with air being deflected upwards by the bucket and the car correspondingly being pressed downwards. We had a conversation on aerodynamic effects in buggies on another thread some time ago, where I asked if the wings on buggies actually did anything. Somebody posted a link to a podcast featuring a Schumacher engineer in which he admitted that they made very little actual downforce and that aero on buggies, at least, was more or less pointless due to the enormous compromises involved. But he added that buggy wings are nevertheless vital, as the (considerable) drag they create acts like "the flight of an arrow" in the words of a more eloquent TC poster (@Mad Ax?) and helps keep the buggy in a straight line and adds stability over jumps. I would suspect the wings on touring cars and pan cars act in the same way, for the same purpose. I have not seen the Arrma Limitless. I will have to have a look, but if it is anything like the tiny diffusers which someone tried to convince me worked on drifting cars, it really won't work. A diffuser works best when used in conjunction with an underfloor low-pressure area as described above. On it's own it could work, but it would have to be pretty big and mounted within a hair's breadth of the floor to have any effect, with all the problems relating to surface imperfections with it that I have already mentioned.
  15. Thanks! Perfect location for me ;) Much appreciated! I was starting to realize the part number might have been off. This is exactly the part I was looking for and hoping to find. Thanks a lot!
  16. The red is tamiya translucent red backed with tamiya gun metal metallic and the white is (although you can't see it) white backed with light silver metallic sparkles really good in the sun!
  17. Those ESC would work but they are unsensored and you're better off with sensored, unless the waterproofing is really important. You could pair an appropriate motor with either of those and it would work. If you want cheap sensorless then look at GoolRC combos, if a 540 sized then 4000kv or thereabouts would probably work in a TT02. There are a lot which are probably all the same just rebranded, so try surpass hobby as well on ebay. Personally I would take a look at those further up in the thread though, they are all sensored and there are a range of options from cheap to expensive
  18. I used DSRCC arms in the end. They are the SA geometry arms.
  19. https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=1843
  20. Try TQ Racing. They have a lot of XV_01 parts, they ship fast, and they are in Cali. https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=7301
  21. you can use the tamiya 50944 these are aloy ones and do not wear that fast as the plastic ones, look for this on the internet. they come with 8 of them in the package
  22. Thanks for the info. I also have the early catalogues, but never really looked at that page... J
  23. Thats great, i didnt know this database existed. Cheers. J
  24. I started to build a twin-pipe exhaust for the V8 engine in Hopper's HiLux - using a Wild Willy NOS bottle (two actually, including the other end of one glue on to mirror the flat end), some old roll-cage pieces and some aluminium tube for the tips. I particularly like that the moulded NOS bottle straps will add further detail to the silencer section, even though you won't actually be able to see them of course! Jx
  25. Blissard

    Kyosho Peerless

    Hehe, I'm glad to hear that you're on the right way. I also had a gas RC before I met Tamiya, every time I went somewhere to run it it never started.
  26. I bought a set of RC4WD 'deep dish' wheels last weekend, in a effort to improve the tyre clearance on the ebaYJeep, only to find the relatively narrow tyres really didn't sit well on the new 29mm wide rims... So, I had to go and buy a set of much wider pukka BF Goodrich ATs to fit properly didn't I? ...and at the same time, rusted the original raw/steel finish on the wheels with the Metal Masters iron paint/activator combo, then sprayed them matt white on top. I have to say, having typically cheaped out in the past with ebay special tyres, it was lovely how these higher quality Axial Racing brand tyres and the RC4WD wheels just screwed together perfectly with the beads seating in the lock rings. Jx
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