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ReRe Blitzer Beetle Shocks and Motor Advice
BuggyDad replied to Grumpy pants's topic in Re-Release Discussions
This is true. But you don't need that garden table either do you? I don't think it'd take long to have the top off that for your take-off. -
I wouldn't use threadlock. It apparently damages plastics but I doubt it'd do much anyway. You should be able to find the parts tree. Look at the back of the manual at the complete parts list to find the product code (in this case 9115022), then search for that. JKRC is usually a good bet if you're in the UK - they seem to break up kits and I tend to find their parts trees cheap. As a little preventative mod, just a little more thread depth would aid strength here significantly, so in blind holes I would be tempted to replace all those studs on arms (and anywhere you think they're at risk of doing this) with longer ones. Check hole depth first. 53969 is a very good little upgrade to have in stock, I find. I add those to my basket when I shop at Plaza Japan. Alternatively, if you have some ball nuts you could thread long grub screws into the holes to make use of max hole depth then use ball nuts on those. Where you don't have a blind hole you have the option to screw from the other side and fit a ball nut - even better. Oops!
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Perfect colour for that body š
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Probably you are right, but it is still a lot of money. 3PV is not cheap thing, but it is also not super expensive. I can just buy it. 4PM costs a lot of money and I am not sure if I want to cry As I wrote, I am looking for durability. If it is the same on both, I will go for 3PV. If 4PM somehow is better, I can consider it. Functions on 3PV are enough for me, but I found few interesting on 4PM.
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After milling the carbon parts, I started to rebuild the chassis. First I had to update the damper using a longer shock shaft. I used the TA-19804293 which is 49.6 mm long. Approximately 20mm longer than the original one. In this step I encountered a small problem: the shock pistons of a TRF501X seems to be slightly thicker than those of the F103GT TRF damper. Using a shim below the piston solves these problem. Now the damper has the additional length to move the front mounting point forward. I used one of the 54960 damper extenders for the TC-01 to complete the damper. Next I installed everything on the chassis. Installing the shorty is now as simple as unscrewing the damper:
- Today
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Hi, Iāve just had the base of the rear shock break off from the suspension arm (sorry if thatās not the right term). Pic attached. The thread has ripped clean out of the plastic - is there a recommended repair for this? Can I jam it back in with some thread-loc or superglue? Or will it just come right back out again now the thread is stripped? Do Tamiya even sell spare parts trees? Only the second time out for this guy, wasnāt doing anything particularly rough, a little disappointedā¦
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What a timing . Land cruiser quad trek is on sale now.. for $250ā¦ if subtract cost of 2sets of tracks ($140) rest of the kit costs about $110.. hmm https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-trucks/rc-toyota-land-cruiser-40-4/
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Tamiya Super Stock motor - replace bushes with bearings
Anthroxoid replied to _Ben_'s topic in The Builds
Well we also face the dilemma of drawing more amps the faster that weāre allowed to push a vehicle, so say speed were kept equal and acceleration similarly then the physics may work that way. In practice I suspect that just the endbell will keep a tad cooler while of course the model will kick butt. We used to also advance the timings for non-compete stocks because why not? Find that sweet spot of RPM. Efore too many spark showers get emitted. Heh. In the old days that required bending tabs on the cans and the. Carefully re-peening them into new positions. Not a very repeatable process. Anyhow, ball bearings==win. Doooeett! -
In regards to support JConcepts is a HUGE OG RC10 supporter, I bet they will release their RC10 parts again. Ie turnbuckles, wheels, shock towers, bell crank steering etc. Some of which you can still buy from them .
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Monster Beetle front toe
1RCdude replied to 1RCdude's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Any suggestions for tires other than stock ones, they seem to wear out fast well the spikes do I mean. \ -
Monster Beetle front toe
1RCdude replied to 1RCdude's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Ok sounds good , thanks -
Geez, you and my BIL could virtually be neighbours if your along South Pine Road š®
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no worries, once you've scanned it, pm me, I'll get you to send the file to me and I can check and upscale it for you.
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I am curious about that note on the motor as I'm running my Boomerang with a sport-tuned...it has been fine so far but I haven't run it very long.
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ReRe Blitzer Beetle Shocks and Motor Advice
Re-Bugged replied to Grumpy pants's topic in Re-Release Discussions
Definitely skip the silver can. I fell asleep watching my Stadium Blitzerās first run within 5 minutes. Promptly put a Sport Tuned in it that was much better. The ST didnāt like soft sand much though and would get very hot in no time. Grass can be power sapping as well, my gut would be Dirt Tuned. Also that pile of mulch in the back corner needs to be moved to the middle of the straight for a decent jump while your at it š -
How true, people really go for the RTR's these days. I much prefer the kit form - showing my age??? What a small world, Hobbyrama is my closest LHS I haven't bought any kits from them in about 20 years but I buy my static models, paints and other supplies from them when I can. It's great to have a shop like that, 5 minutes down the road. Fun fact, the bald guy downstairs sold me my TA02 Calsonic kit back in 1993 when he worked at Mr Toys in the Myer Centre, Brisbane City. Another knowledgable guy I hope doesn't leave anytime soon. I hope the sale of your business goes well!
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These took forever! Almost time to build! Cant wait. Like 4 more parts... ryan
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In my experience, the TS does fairly well on small to medium jumps, and doesn't nose-dive. That being said, I don't think it is able to handle huge jumps due to the limited front suspension travel and overall feel of the car. The nose diving of your TS could depend on many factors like driving style, speed, car/suspension setup, and the angle of the jump. If on a random playground, I would have guessed maybe it's hitting a bump with the rear wheels right before take off, but since you are on a proper astro track I doubt it's the case. Maybe try playing around with the suspensions. Are you using the original CVAs as shocks?
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Lightly Modded TXT-2 Agrios
Sciflyer replied to Sciflyer's topic in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Yeah im not a huge fan of the box art so i dont think i will follow it. I just looked up pics of Bigfoot 18 and its not bad, maybe thats the way to go -
Yep, thatās the one. Elite hobbies down the road went a year or two ago where I got my EB4 buggy from. Apparently someone is looking at Roryās but he wants to make the building half laundrette half hobby shop?? The current owner isnāt convinced thatāll work. Maybe it will (hopefully) if the laundrette can help prop up the hobby side. Rory is a very knowledgeable guy and would be sorely missed. He did also mention that the kit side of things doesnāt do to well, itās all RTR these days. Some people even cringe at the thought of putting a couple of stickers on š¬ Itāll make stocking up on the small stuff like paint, servos etc a bit of a pest. My wife and I own a small business and indeed the sector is getting very hard, the government & council made it that way. Fortunately we are in the process of a sale ourselves. Overheads are monstrously ridiculous now. My BIL lives around the corner from Hobbyrama in Brisbane (who oddly wonāt post many of their kits) and a few others arenāt far from there so looks like more visits down that way in the future.
- Yesterday
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I've been watching popalong rc and been enjoying seeing Tamiya's on YouTube. Can't wait to see more of your racing.
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Oh dear! That would be Rory's!?!? I was up in Rocky on holidays a couple of weeks ago. He has always been handy for the odd crawler part - he had the Axial gears we needed and we also picked up some reasonably priced crawler tyres. I saw the For Sale sign out the front, but didn't have the heart to ask Another LHS on the edge of closure. It must be tough in today's market.
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Temple of VTEC š¤£
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Gosh thatās very pretty. @wtcc5 did your rear end mods encourage or discourage chassis twist to any benefit? And if you donāt mind answering an old guyās pondering, it looks like you have functional front formula suspension on your model. It looks truly like a scale recreation. Are there dampers hiding between the uppers and lowers or perhaps lay downs hiding somewhere? BTW I appreciate you helping me walk back memory laneāthese things were long since lost to my adolescence. I never put rubber tires on my Tamiya Formula before heading indoors for the 12th scale shenanigans though I believe that youāre correct on the F-102 assessment: I see a lot of similarities with the design here, such as the general layout and suspension geometries and that graphite rear axle sticks out well. I do not think the front suspension was as realistic as yours. The most fun that I got out of mine with neoprene on asphalt was perfecting about 150ā long drifts from a downhill straight into the crossroad that it intersected. It was almost like driving on wet epoxy flooring. Too much throttle and the rear end would just shoot right out. Iām really curious how an improved version would feel to drive with modest powertrains. Thanks for sharing the build thread š
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As above, if you're thinking of staying in the hobby (sport , if you start racing...) I'd invest in a decent LCD screened charger. They're not that expensive (base models- Skyrc e680 are around Ā£45 from a proper outlet, ie NOT ebay amazon etc, as there are fakes about ) but will charge pretty much all battery chemistry (Nicad / Nimh / Lipo etc) , by mains or 12v and usually less than an hour, which will help enjoy RC more, (giving the option to upgrade to lipo ,as you progress). You generally charge at "1C", with C being the capacity, so you would charge the 2000mah (2Ah) at 2Amp and would take an hour max (that's if the battery is 100% flat, which they never are, so more likely 35 - 40 mins)
