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  2. TwistedxSlayer

    Is this real? GF01 Monster Beetle...

    This chassis.... just with any other body please. I'm really not a fan of it sorry to say.
  3. I'm looking to race the hilux at my local indoor club, trouble is its polished wooden floor...... my buggies and touring cars use schumacher mini pins, what's available for the hilux/king cab???? Can anyone point me in the right direction please. Thank you
  4. Hi all! Today I managed to finish my Bullhead, which isn't quit a Bullhead anymore or at least at present. The Bullhead body is still in his box and waiting for a decision of me how to go on with it. But for now I'm very happy how it comes out. As I was not sure what to do colour-wise with the Bullhead, I've ordered a Proline 1980th Chevy Blazer body and choose a (at least for me) complex paintt job. It started with the name of the truck. As I wanted a 80th/90th-style Monster Truck and all of them have a name, I've chosen - in dependence on the Blazer model K5 - the name High 5 to refer to the big tires. The name is borrowed from a t-shirt I've bougth from Blipshift which shows a raised K5. The name was printed mirrored on a masking sheet and painted in four steps with airbrush acrylic paint. Also the window seal of the front window and the doors were painted black. After that I've painted the lower part of the body with Tamiya PS-42 translucent yellow and the upper part of the body with PS-45 translucent purple. All was backed with Tamiya PS-41 bright silver. The front bumper were painted in PS-48 silver anodized aluminium. After that the whole body was backed with PS-5 black. I've never painted a body with so many steps and that extensive masking. Here are some picture of the finished truck: Also made the maiden run of the truck this afternoon in the backyard. My wife tried to make some "action" pics which which wasn't so easy as the truck is much faster than expected with silber cans and a Nimh battery. I think they are pretty good. It's funny to drive this truck as it bouncing around and the steering is is doing what it likes. But it was great fun and my little daugther tried to chase it. That's all for now. I hope you like it.
  5. Grumpy pants

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Fitted my wiper blades, listed some bits on eBay and my spare SS body set was collected tonight by its new owner.
  6. TurnipJF

    M-03 Question

    The M-06 has a very long rear overhang compared to most Mini chassis. In what respect does it not fit? Is the wheelbase wrong or is the motor interfering with the back of the shell? If the former, I'm afraid the wheelbase is the going to be the same so it won't be any different. If the latter, there is virtually no rear overhang on the M-03 so it should be a far easier fit.
  7. Today
  8. Don79

    Recommended kit

    I'm gonna get som pins tomorrow! Noticed that the wheel started spinning when i applied som pressure so it might just run again
  9. JennyMo

    Is this real? GF01 Monster Beetle...

    Here is my two cents on the subject - I certainly agree with much of what's already been said in this thread, and I've posted before (on an MST chassis based build thread as I recall) that it is kind of ironic that Tamiya has the longest history of producing the most detailed and scale hard-bodies (along with all their other static kits of course), and yet they don't seem to have capitalised on that at all really - despite the explosion in interest in 'scale' models/crawlers from other manufacturers, which are increasingly designed specifically to appeal to a market segment that clearly has a lot of money to spend. As has been mentioned above, Tamiya also have one of the largest and most varied parts-bins available too, so I cannot see why they couldn't create a simple twin-rail chassis based platform (essentially in a 'builders kit' format) that utilises various wishbone/axle/shock combinations from their extensive parts-bin, and which offers an adjustable or/or range of wheelbase options - so it can be easily paired with their current range of scale hardbodies which continue in production (and others that could be re-introduced and/or added). After all, they essentially already have that concept with the MF-01 chassis for more road-biased vehicles (and to a more specific degree the TRF chassis for club racing) - so introducing a more off-road performance oriented twin-rail 'scale' style chassis (like the Axail SCX10 etc.) would require very little extra R&D; and as long as it matched the Axial OEM specification (ie. a mix of plastic cross braces and metal rails to help keep the initial cost affordable, together with a series of hop-up options in full metal perhaps), I can't see why people wouldn't start to build around a similar Tamiya chassis instead - particularly if the kits came paired with a fully detailed hard-body already. While I also ended my previous pontification with the assertion that actually, not every manufacturer has to cover every single market segment - and that in more recent years it would appear that Tamiya have decided to focus on the basher/club-racer/entry level market more perhaps (presumably still the biggest RC segment in Japan?); at the same time they clearly also know the value of their heritage with the higher-end/higher-priced ReRe of the SRB and 3-Speed kits too. So personally I can't see why they couldn't also capitalise on their own history further, with essentially a 'heritage' range of more detailed and labour intensive builders kits to appeal to the more monied middle-aged market too? Jenny x
  10. Saito2

    Is this real? GF01 Monster Beetle...

    I apologize for continuing to run this thread off the rails a bit, but I'd just like to reply to this little bit @nowinaminute added. The difference in dynamics you note between say, the WT01 and the Stampede seem to be down to the utter lack of front kick-up on the former. The WT01 has symmetrical suspension, front and back, by nature because it requires this to allow for the 4wd versions (as Tamiya designed them, using similar front and rear structures). This puts the front suspension arms dead level which, in turn, allows for zero steering axis inclination. As such, at low speeds, the truck comes off as oddly robotic. At high speeds, especially on pavement, it becomes very hard to hold a steady straight line. The truck get twitchy as speeds go up. The Stampede on the other hand has lots of front kick-up like an RC10 allowing it to handle higher and higher speeds with greater ease. Even something as "low performance" as a Lunch Box has a tiny bit of kick-up compared to the WT01 leading to a more natural feeling vehicle.
  11. ThunderDragonCy

    Boomerang wreck to Boomerwig runner

    Back from my trip, so finished the dampers. Took a few goes. Schumacher spring still felt too soft so i put the hardest silver DF03 spring on. After feeling how slow the fronts felt i decided to put 600cst oil back in the rears, just with the 1 hole piston instead of two. Once installed i noticed two things. 1) Even with the 800 oil and stiff springs the front still feels very much lighter sprung and faster damped 'at the wheel' compared to the rear, when compressing the suspension and letting it go from the hubs. 2) Even though the manual calls for full length Long rear dampers, the downstops on the arms prevent the arms drooping enough for the full shock length, so the shocks have preload built in. They are about 7mm too long. So, rebuilding the shocks AGAIN I put a 6mm spacer off a black front cva sprue and an o ring under the piston and rebuilt, then used the rear hard silver DF03 spring which are a little shorter than the kit long springs. As a brief aside, whilst i was mucking aboit with rear shocks i replaced the rear arms as the new R parts turned up yesterday. The screwpins feel nice and solid now. The suspension still seems harder and slower damped than the front though. I think the leverage of the front arms is really mismatching the shock performance front to rear. Normally on front arms the shock mounts 2/3-3/4 of the way out to the wheel, reducing the leverage and mechanical advantage over the front shock. The bigwig arms mount the shock barely halfway out, which means the shock is being compressed with potentially 20-30% more load than on most other buggies, hence the soft, fast feel. I will give it a drive, but i suspect i will need to go down to 300-400cst and much softer spring on the rear shocks to balance out the car. Having the stiffer rear end is going to make turn-in really fast and tend to oversteer. We'll see how it drives. Here it is with all the shocks on I also popped the electronics in. The spare cheap esc that came with another car, flysky RX, silvercan motor and 14t pinion i used to run in my Thunder Dragon. Installed the redundent MSC tray to cover the prop shaft and hold the power cables off it. Anyone got a bigwig have any setup tips?
  12. Boddney

    M-03 Question

    Oh **** and blast. I’ve already cut the arches but haven’t got a chassis yet. That may be where my problem lies. My Anglia van body doesn’t fit on my short M-06. I’m hoping an M-03 maybe better?
  13. TurnipJF

    M-03 Question

    Many of the Kamtec banger bodies are designed with a bit of wheelbase flexibility depending on how you trim the wheel arches, allowing them to fit either a 205mm Mardave or a 210mm Tamiya mini chassis equally easily. I have a Kamtec Hotrod Beetle shell on a M-06 and a Morris Minor van shell on a M-03, both of which fit just fine. The Beetle has scope to adjust the rear wheel arch position and the Morris Minor has scope to adjust the front wheel arch position.
  14. Mokei Kagaku

    Car list updating ( need help guys )

    47414 Audi A4 STW (TT-01E) 47419 Monster Beetle (2015) Black Edition 58672 Monster Beetle Trail (GF-01TR) 58674 Toyota GR Supra (TT-02)
  15. Mokei Kagaku

    Car list updating ( need help guys )

    10 points!
  16. Boddney

    Tamiya M-06 with US Style MR2 Mk1 Shell

    I have indeed https://flic.kr/p/2fXfvcV
  17. Boddney

    M-03 Question

    I only asked the question as I heard that a Kamtec banger body will fit a shortened M-03 chassis. I’m not too sure it will as there’s a 3mm discrepancy according to my research.
  18. Ray_ve

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Ordered the materials I need for the mugen Seiki. Now to clean the parts, they have old Nitro fuel resedu on them. Hopefully the ultrasonic cleaner can get it clean with soap, otherwise I need to find some kind of solvent..
  19. wolfdogstinkus

    Recommended kit

    The differential provides all the power to the wheel with the least grip. in your case the axle with less weight. Both wheels will spin when you find the pin, you can use a small nail cut to size until your replacement parts show up.
  20. Butler

    For Sale FF03 CRZ

    £60
  21. nowinaminute

    Is this real? GF01 Monster Beetle...

    I don't want anyone to think I hate the WR and WT01, I like them both a lot and in some situations they handle a mild brushless pretty well like on grass, dirt and sand etc but if you add in some on road, they can get pretty flustered, that's where I start to notice a difference to other brands. I've gone the route of shock towers and bigger dampers which makes a BIG improvement to articulation but I find it makes them roll easier too. If you stiffen the suspension to stop them rolling, you don't benefit from the extra articulation. If you use smaller shocks you lose some of the articulation advantage. Also the wheels scrape the arches. I love them but they frustrate me too. I love my heavy dump truck and tractors too, I love 6wd trucks and this Beetle looks awesome as well. I just wish they would update the 1/10 truck platform.
  22. junkmunki

    Vintage Shelf Queen Display Stands

    I am restoring a 1/8 scale Roll Royce phantom model kit from the 1980s, and because these kits were so big and heavy when built (approx' 3 kilos), they were actually supplied with miniature axle stands to rest the chassis on, so when it was built and displayed, the axles didnt sag or the tyres flatten out...
  23. nowinaminute

    Is this real? GF01 Monster Beetle...

    Totally, it's only a few subtle things that make a big difference. I'm not talking about making 70mph beasts either, just stuff that can handle say a 3-4000kv on 2s without becoming a real handful. The buggies like the DT02 and 03 can do that just fine but the the WT01 and WR01 not so much. They are real fun to drive within their limits with the kind of brushed motors they were designed for, they are versatile and handle well on road and off road, pretty stable and corner nice for a big truck but there's a distinct point where they suddenly become a little out of their depth and stuff like the Stampede or even my HSP Bronotsaurus is still quite composed and planted and while it can be fun trying to keep something upright, it can also become a bit of a chore sometimes too. Other brands just seem to have a bit of a higher threshold before they become a jelly on wheels. When it's a dump truck or a tractor, I don't mind working hard to get the best from it but when it's a 1/10 truck I just want a little more. I'm not asking for the world, just a slighty more capable platform with bigger suspension articulation etc.
  24. junkmunki

    Vintage Shelf Queen Display Stands

    Thanks for that tip, i just looked him up on ebay and purchased a few....
  25. junkmunki

    Displaying NIB kits (or even empty boxes)

    I don't have many NIB kits, but the ones i do have are stacked in large cardboard boxes until i finish (eventually..) building the hobby room at the top of my house. I went along to the local removal company and paid a few pounds for some of their large packing boxes, they are almost exactly the right dimensions to stack four kits in with ease. That way, they are dry and out of sunlight, but protected from damage until the day they can be displayed. Like Superchamp, i also like to see the accessories and spares displayed along with the models they are from.
  26. Same as the 2015 version, but black https://www.thercracer.com/2019/05/tamiya-47419-monster-beetle-black.html?m=0
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