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  2. Well it's Friday again! And it's a Bank Holiday weekend, extra long with Friday and Monday off work. Except I officially finished my job yesterday, so this should now be personal holiday time, except wife and child are home for the next 4 days That should mean we'll do some family stuff, but my wife is a bit frazzled after a crazy work week, and the weather here has been awful with no sign of letting up for the next fortnight (there goes my 2 weeks off work...) so I think we'll just have a quiet one at home. Friday - get my daughter up in a mo, spend the day together at home. I think I'll cook a roast chicken this afternoon. Evening - probably spend some time in the studio, or maybe watch a film. Saturday - another day with my daughter, maybe take her out to an old house if the weather improves. Evening - cook up some ribs (from a packet) and watch a film with the wife. Sunday - Workshop Sunday! Really gotta make some progress on the race trailer, only 2 more Sundays before Iconic Cup. I spent all last weekend on it and mostly made the tail lift (pics still awaiting posting) but I haven't got the parts I need to install the servo yet. Also need to install the new control motor in the M03 and give it a once-over to make sure it's all set and ready to race. Evening - couple of beers and chill out in the studio. Monday - in theory we're meeting family at the beach, but if this torrential rain continues the sea will probably get to us first. Maybe just drive to my parents for the afternoon. Daughter is staying away all next week so wife and I will probably have pizzas and a film when we get home. Have yourselves a great weekend! Anybody got any RC stuff planned?
  3. Today
  4. I also used to be far too eager on the inputs. Perhaps because of running too lazy motorized buggies in the "formative" years . For me the change came with the M-05 - the opposite of what our competent @OoALEJOoO is suggesting. There probably is more roads leading to Rome, as a saying here says. With a FWD it's no fun spinning and you cannot do donuts, so the best you can do is to run it properøy. Then it became a goal to avoid wheelspin, brake loose enough so it did not just skid and turning in gentle so it does not spin or understeer. And not to forget; let the car finish the movement given by your last input before you give another (for instance; brake, wait for the car to settle, turn in). When I later got my XV-01 and used what I had learned I was instantly faster resulting in improved results for me in the postal racing.
  5. As suggested earlier I think it's a good idea to use a scaled up version of the current Racing by post course. Pylon80 suggested to multiply all measures by 1,5. So when the map for the "normal " round is official it's simple to make the scaled up one.
  6. @OoALEJOoO can I ask you, what is length of spacer/ post on front bumper on first photo?
  7. @skom25 All my TT-01 and TT-02 now have these braces. When installing them, you have to be careful to adjust the turnbuckle length carefully to avoid introducing camber and friction inadvertently. The connectors need to freely move around the ball, if not then as you say the suspension will not be free anymore. The spacer posts at the bumper need to be sized so that the beams are horizontal when the suspension is pressed around mid-way. This ensures friction is minimal across the suspension travel length. In my mind they serve a few purposes (if installed correctly as mentioned above): Improve wear resistance of front suspension moving parts. Specially on rally cars, which are run in dusty conditions, less slop = less wear. All suspension elements of my TT rally cars wear a lot less once the car is shimmed and have these braces. Makes cars sharper. Less slop also means small steering inputs are more immediately felt on the car. If you have a lot of slop, then small steering inputs might lag or take longer to see. Also, setup changes tend to be a bit more evident. I agree that it's not a major effect, but you can definitely see/feel it once most slop has been eliminated through full suspension & steering shimming and a stiff servo saver. Tougher chassis part crash resistance. I haven't fully tested this, but I think the braces should reduce stress at the chassis holes where the suspension arms mount, since some of the crash force will now go to the bumper mount. The upright is probably just as unprotected (it might be even worse, now that there is less compliance) but I'll rather break an upright than the chassis holes.
  8. Not much to update yet, since I have been distracted with other things.. Easter seems like a good time for painting the polycarbonate body shell.
  9. The front end looks pretty awesome. Especially the chassis brace and shock tower. The 25 degree kickback looks like it fits perfectly. I hope the suspension mounting is strong enough to absorb frontal impact. Did you consider a front suspension brace like Kyosho use on the Dirtmaster?
  10. @Pylon80 I think our thoughts are mutually inclusive. Indeed, tires need a skid angle to generate cornering force, my point is that the ground needs to be able to provide that force (grip) in order for the car to turn. If the surface can provide enough grip, then the tire will roll, if not then it would slide. Like you say, it follows that more skid angle requires more grip, therefore you can prevent skidding by turning less, as @skom25 pointed out. @Otis311 I am also working slowly in improving my driving and over-using full-lock is one of my bad habits too. Something that helps in building skill is driving a RWD car. With them you really need to understand and control both throttle & steering to go fast around a track without looking like a drunk driver . Once you get a good feel of a RWD nuances, when you switch to 4WD you are even quicker. Drive your M-06 (or even your TT-02 converted to RWD) and experiment.
  11. I was curious about those tracks.. but tracks as stand alone parts are quite pricey
  12. Let's put a Super Stock motor in there and see what happens 😬
  13. Yesterday
  14. I have the same transmitter. I have heard you can jailbreak/ hack them to unlock more functionality. Was it difficult?
  15. It's been raining here for the last two days so I have been driving my GF01FT inside chasing the dog. You folks are gonna get tired of hearing me saying how much fun this goofy thing is. It has the normal GF01 wheelie bar which some have speculated is next to worthless but that's not accurate. If you gun it from reverse to forward, it will "wheelie" on the wheelie bar as long as you hold the throttle. Just gunning it from a stand still will lift the front tracks about an inch then quickly drop back down. It's fast in the living room but pretty slow outside. Also, I can't decide if it's more fun to crawl super slow or run it like a hooligan. All this is with the stock 540, make me kinda want to drop a Torque Tuned in it. Honestly if I were to make a like of "must haves", the GF01FT would be in the top ten.
  16. Nearly finished up with Part 2 of my TamTech gear stuff. (continuation of previous long-winded post on March 21). Figured I'd post a pic of the progress. I still need to paint the side mirrors and finish up some small details.
  17. Glad this category is still gaining traction. And its still my primary category. Since i've just moved overseas and bought a house, i'll be getting back into the hobby soon once i settle in. Luckily there are 2x race tracks just around the corner from my place 😁
  18. This kind of thing is what 3d printing was made for. 😉
  19. I took the Rampage for a spin (literally), definitely more fun than any 2WD SCT I've driven even if it's more challenging to drive.
  20. I agree. If the battery tray was present, that would cinch it, but the one-piece rims almost assuredly mean its an original Mountaineer.
  21. I'm glad this thread got bumped. What a fantastic trip down memory lane. Funny thing too, I am still dreaming about the same kits I was dreaming about back then. I was just starting my freshman year at Baylor when I purchased a TA03 with an Airtronics Caliber shortly after David Jun won with one. I ran it for a couple months then sold it for a buggy. I can't even remember which buggy and I kick myself for doing so but I was a dumb kid. If I could jump in the go back machine, I'd grab several more TA03's and a couple of HPI RS4's. Also, call me crazy but it's great seeing saddle pack NiCads and nothing but brushed motors. I may be showing my bias but I feel the mid 90's was the high water mark for RC cars.
  22. I have almost finished this. I need to tweak a few things so will add photos to the build thread when I do. It's a 1977 Nikko 18 wheeler. Rebuilt to modern standards and electronics. 3D printed gearbox running a 6:1 ratio and 370 motor. Micro servo for 5th wheel And a few other 3D printed parts. At the moment it's on 7.2 AA pack and 40 percent throttle EPA as it's a powerful 370 and I don't want to damage gears or go too fast. It's still a hoot to drive and has an amazing steering throw and tiny turning circle. 5th wheel works well although I need to replace the hair pin connecting the servo with thread so it transmits tension forces but not compression. I am looking to print a 1/24 Edgarmon to drive it.
  23. Thanks to all of you for the thoughtful responses. It makes sense what is being said about the tires biting in initially and suddenly losing grip when transitioning from rolling to sliding laterally. I appreciate understanding the cars behavior from a physics point of view. I have developed a number of bad habits over the years. Driving a variety of vehicles on every imaginable surface has not helped hone any specific skill. I have been focusing on throttle control more these days and have seen a reduction in wheel spin. Adjusting exponential has helped this as well. Braking has been a lot harder to fine tune. I tend to hit full brakes at the last second. For some reason I find it very difficult to modulate braking. I think It has to do with the short throw of the trigger in that direction as well as the unnatural movement of extending my finger. That and the fact that braking happens when the car is at its fastest and has to be applied rapidly. This has also been helped with exponential and reducing overall brake force. Steering is definitely my biggest problem. The bad habits I have formed over decades are very ingrained. Full lock has been mentioned a few times in this thread. "Full lock" might as well be my middle name. I basically throw the car into the corner and use throttle to fine tune the line. I am glad to hear that turning the wheel past a certain point has diminishing returns. That is something I have noticed but wasn't sure if it was just a result of low overall grip. I imagine this is still the case even on high grip surfaces to some extent. I have been playing with steering exponential and dual rates. The trouble I have with making chassis adjustments is that I don't have a great baseline to work from. In general I have softened and lowered the suspension to assist in overall handling. Now that I know that this turn in issue is not just in my head or an optical illusion or something I can try to work on it.
  24. I guess Le Mans fits as a first run. I’ve not found a space yet that’s suitable but there’s got to be somewhere…
  25. My sensorless BL experience is limited to RC planes (from 20 years ago) as well as my current 1/27 micro on-road car. In both instances you determine the rotation direction by taking a guess, observing, and swapping two wires if you need to reverse it. I do not know if that would apply to your project but I would have to guess it does! Now I certainly wouldn't want anything sensorless in 1/10 scale as the poor throttle control would bother me; that might not be an issue at all on a WR though.
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