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  2. Currently waiting in project limbo so made a start on getting the willy sorted! The body and driver are a bit beyond me so just cleaned up Will just strip rebuild with decent bearings and leave brushed
  3. I would suggest lowering the gearing. I ran those wheels on a manta ray recently. Buggy wheels are about 80mm diameter, so with those 110mm wheels you want to reduce the gearing at least 80/110 = 0.72. 17 x 0.72 is 12.73 so if you can get a 12t pinion to fit that would be a good place to start IMO. For 13.5 brushless i would aim for a FDR around 11. Not sure what the internal gear ratio is so not sure what pinion/spur that would be.
  4. That is brilliant, thank you. Time for me to drag myself into the future.
  5. The trf car has metal ourselves jowever which prevent melting even if it does strip
  6. What sort of glue can you use? Is super (ca) ok?
  7. Today
  8. I use this (I'm UK based) - https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsr-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-lipo-balance-charger/rc-car-products/408440 With the balance board I popped up in the Electrics section of these forums. The charger is excellent, does all batteries and is easy to use.
  9. Hi Ralphee, just wondering which suspension arms did you took?
  10. Oddly enough, it is the LiFe I’m keen to move to rather than LiPo. If only I could find a Tamiya charger in the UK...though it looks like Tamico have some options...
  11. @Badcrumble that's exactly what I was after when I got my Dancing Rider. I ended up buying the absurdly expensive LiFe battery and spent a day searching for a balance board to charge the thing! That'd be spot on with a Hobbywing 1060.
  12. Due to overcomplete I want to sell the following parts for a Vintage project. The parts are for an M01 or M02. some parts are very hard to find and often for extreme prices. Bidding is allowed but please keep it nice. 53070 - Manta Ray Ball Diff Set € 25, = NIP 53157 - Alum. King Pins (4WD-TA02 / FWD Chassis) € 8, = NIP 53205 - Tamiya M-Chassis Universal Shaft Set (1 Pair) € 45.00 = NIP 53236 - M-Chassis bushing set € 9 = NIP 53237 - M-Chassis hollow carbon gear shaft set € 15, = NIP 53238 - M-Chassis quick-release battery holder € 35 new, opened but unused 53239 - M-Chassis front & rear stabilizer set € 35 probably used but complete 53253 - M-Chassis aluminum racing set € 35, = NIP Will be sent in padded envellope or small package. Shipping costs depend on the weight, are for the buyer
  13. To all those FDR Gurus out there I need advice. Whilst waiting for some parts for my Jeep body build I was sorting wheels and chassis out in the shed when I created this! It is a TT02-t fitted with Dynahead wheels (110mm dia). It has a torque tuned motor, though a silvercan in picture with 17t pinion with 70t spur gear. My question is will it work as is without unduly stressing the drivetrain or should I change pinion and or spur gear to make it work better? I may consider putting a brushless motor in if that helps (13.5 speed passion?) Any advice would be appreciated
  14. My battery access/location views been flipped on its head, since i now only run lipos. Never gave it second thought ,a joy to change with nicad/nimh sticking out the sides of the chassis, no body to remove etc. Now with Lipo, especially softcase 3s ones (hardcase are a struggle to fit, in some instances), I'm loving the enclosed chassis, you need to take the body off for, no worrying (ok, not major worries but...) about rocks or high speed shrapnel bursting the soft Lipo casing..
  15. I was looking for Tamiya LiFE batteries and stumbled acrosss this. Any good for those of you with this model in the U.K./EU? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=442621&gclid=CjwKCAjwxaXtBRBbEiwAPqPxcId93kdU_9L1Dv-yzY12TE_z2jsOubp9S6-QxigmDtIgHpMU_LF7mBoCdA4QAvD_BwE
  16. This is so true, especially the Hornet deciding to eject it's cover as it gets airborne.. Or catches a rock.. Of if I sneeze near it... Mines now held shut with a small screw with a Nimh that has permanent residence in it. I really like the simplicity of the DT-03 and TT-02, every battery I own fits in them from Shorty's to large Square Lipo's and everything in between. Probably why they get used so much.
  17. A bump before this goes on eBay @ the weekend 👌
  18. A bump before they go on eBay this weekend 💥
  19. Also your idea will work fine; the 6 channel receivers are pretty much the same size, shape and cost as the 3 channels. I use a Flysky FS-T6 Transmitter and I'm pretty sure you could just use one of the sticks for steering, throttle and brake/reverse.
  20. Where abouts in the world are you? If you are somewhere down the south west of england I can assist you with coming up with something. I make quite a few bits on my lathe and have made my own equipment to assist with my right leg amputation. I'd be happy to assist with helping you modify your equipment if it would help you out. I'm thinking a clamp around the wheel of a trigger grip RC controller with a thumb loop or similar that would assist with the steering control.
  21. If hand grip is an issue, you might try using a radio tray like the ones used by some model aircraft pilots. Hung around the neck and braced against the body, this gives something to rest the transmitter on, so you don't need to hold it. You can then use your available grip to manipulate the stick, which can be extended and thickened to make holding it easier.
  22. I've started pulling apart the XV01 in preparation for summer. First job is to remake the diffs. The front diff had leaked everywhere. I've finished cleaning that up today. The rear one is perfectly fine and I'm tempted to leave the it as-is. I also put my M06 up for sale recently and while I had a dozen people watching, nobody was willing to buy it. I'm not surprised since M-chassis racing seems to be either M05 or M07 based here. Owning the M06 seems a bit redundant since I'd now rather spend money on an M08.
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