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  2. My topforce was one of only two rc's I regret selling (the other was my first re-re avante) but to be fair I did get a very good price for it! Anyway after a few weeks I began to regret it so I'm over the moon both topforce and dampers are making a reappearance!
  3. Mea culpa, I may just be too lazy to paint the chassis.....plus I kinda like it how it is....
  4. Today
  5. These are great cars, you may need to do a little trimming on the arms to get more droop/travel. Probably go for GF-01 alloy damper set for extra travel, these will by far the best option for length vs travel as well as giving solid smooth travel, about 25-30% more than CVA mini. There’s plenty of room from memory for those shocks. You can swap them over to m chassis or 42102, for street duties. You might like to consider some alloy c hubs, the factory plastic ones flex forwards under compression giving positive caster as the suspension moves through its travel, not what you want off road. You’ll see for yourself as you complete the build. That chassis is a great fun setup, I’m sure you’ll get a lot of joy from it for your intended purpose. Juls
  6. The Yokomo Crown body is 275mm wheel base isn't it? That's longer than normal. Standard touring car wheel base is ~255-260mm. If the wheel arches aren't cut from the body yet, you could cut the rear arch slightly forward and the front arch slightly rear ward of where they are supposed to be. Then rearrange whatever spacers you can on the chassis to extend the wheel base as much as possible. It might be possible for the chassis and body to meet in the middle - somewhere about 265mm, and it shouldn't be noticeable from a distance that the wheel base isn't quite correct for the body.
  7. Not having any experience with the M06, but having experience with aluminium steering upgrades in other cars, I'd say the Tamiya one will be a cut above the rest for one reason: the bearings will be better quality. If the ball bearings have slop, it partially defeats the purpose of upgrading to ball bearing steering. It might be cheaper to buy one of the other brands and replace the bearings with better quality ones if they are garbage, but often they are pressed in tightly to the aluminium part and may take significant effort to extract. Other than bearings, they are probably all functionally the same. At least that is what I've found with parts for other cars. They copy the attachment points from the Tamiya part, then make their own geometry for the rest of the part (to avoid copyright), which bears no impact on functionality as aluminium parts are rigid. Having bought aluminium parts from 4 of those manufacturers I'd rank them (in order of most preferred to least) 1. Tamiya 2. GPM 3. Yeah racing 4. Jazrider GPM and Jazrider are the same company it would seem, however GPM seems to be their premium brand.
  8. Hi all, I am in the process of reducing as much slop as possible from the M06 and have got to the steering. I am thinking that aluminum upgrade might be a good idea but there are quite a few to choose from. GPM, Jazrider, Yeah Racing, 3 Racing and of course Tamiya own. What are the opinions about the best option? Is there one that stands out as the best or are they all about the same? Thanks in advance for any help.
  9. Fantastic! This video really makes you want this buggy!
  10. Got to test my weatherproof car after some heavy rain, and it worked spectacularly! Most of the chaos was contained at the ends of the car instead of being flung into the tub. Here's a second run, after the ground had dried up a fair bit
  11. How much too short is it? You can gain a few mm front and back by adjusting the spacers on the suspension shafts but probably only about 5mm.
  12. Anybody notice this on the Top Force listing on RCMart: Pleasenote that this item is on Back Order (Limited Quantity), the next ETA is End November 2019. ETA is subject to change due to manufacturer delays. Back Order Special Offer: Free 1 Set of Tamiya Top-Force 2017 High Capacity Damper Set #47358 Promotion Period: 1/09/2019 – 30/11/2019 http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-47350-force-2017-p-73602.html Seems like a crazy good deal if this is truly the case.
  13. Cool....where did you find this?
  14. Well @jonboy1 you promoted some action on my part 👍 1 car has been sold now and I’ll list another on eBay next weekend. That will lighten the load for now!
  15. Looking for advise from any TA06 “experts”. I picked up a 2nd hand TA06 chassis which I was hoping I would be Ablett to fit a Yokomo Toyota Crown body onto. Before I get too far into it, I placed the body over the chassis and it seems that the wheelbase of the chassis is too short for the body? I’m no expert on touring car chassis but I thought a 190mm touring car would be fairly universal for the bodies that are available out there? Is the TA06 chassis wheelbase changeable? heres my Chassis so far, and a stick pick of which body I planed on fitting I’ll try and get some pics of the untrimmed body over the chassis to show how much it seems to not align. Any advice that anyone has would be greatly appreciated
  16. What motor are you using? Is it the basic kit supplied silver motor?
  17. Sorry for the delay getting a quote @Yonez Postage to Norway will be £9 - is that ok ? If so, please PM me your details 👍
  18. Thanks guys. the ESC was calibrated in the shop yesterday hence why I’m confused. the batteries are brand new, the motor is new as is all of the gears and it’s geared as per the spec and parts by Tamiya. There are no hop ups on it at all. shall I try and switch to a different ESC?
  19. Im possibly wrong but does this esc require the throttle channel to be reversed like the tble02s does? I only noticed this when the car appeared faster in reverse than going forward (is reverse speed limited) When i eventually properly read the manual, swithched the transmitte channel and then calibrated it, it worked as described (ie much faster going forwards)
  20. The shown GT Power led set is also available on AliExpress, you can find them there as cheap as 3 dollars. They are not always called GT Power over there, but look for RC led or RC light set or something like that and the photo's will tell you. Only downside of AliExpress is that it usally takes a while to get delivered. I often get the rebranded Hobbyking one, from wel eh... Hobbyking. It is the same one. Just look for "Hobbyking Schaal Auto LED Light System Advanced" on there website. It is the same one as the the GT Power one. Tip. They are very easy to waterproof. Just pop open the case and I personally use conformal coating. This is what I use: https://amzn.to/30ba94W Very easy to apply, drys fast. 2 or 3 layers on the circuit board and pop it back in the case. Done. No worries if you are driving trough water , damp or mud. One 55ml bottle will last you a lot of builds. I use it for all electronics. As for a electronic light switch so you can switch the lights on or off from your transmitter. The most reliable one I use for years now is the one from DR Mad, the Dr. Mad Thrust. Simple, easy. I waterproof is also with the conformal coating. Hobbyking also sold them, but the seem to be out of them. But you can find them all over AliExpress. https://bit.ly/2kXJfdd
  21. Got email from RCMart saying they have been sent to Hong Kong post office for shipping so I guess their in stock numbers were correct,
  22. I haven't posted any videos, the kit rear springs are slightly too stiff so I will experiment with softer ones to get more movement. the driving experience is solid with understeer, the weight is more biased to the rear and benefits from brake turns to change direction quickly (similar to the fox).....this is tarmac on loose dirt, fine gravel dust surfaces (like most Tamiya models) it excels with some nice power sliding......
  23. It could also be that your car is over overgeared, the motor is faulty or your batteries are a bit tired. The Mtroniks ESCs behave like that when the the current draw exceeds what they believe the battery can supply, triggering the low voltage cut out under heavy acceleration.
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