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  2. This arrived from Tamico this morning, won't be going box art......
  3. It may also have something to do with the volumes ordered and manufactured. For something as logistically complex to manufacture and bring together as an RC kit, this will probably have a greater effect on MRP than the complexity of the kit or the amount of material used. Alternatively, the inverse may be true. Tamiya may have been expecting to sell many more Bigwigs than Wild Ones, so they might have made three times as many of the former than the latter. It could then have transpired that they only sold twice as many. If they built 30,000 Bigwigs and 10,000 Wild Ones, then that means they now might have virtually no Wild Ones available on the market, but 10,000 spare Bigwig kits. Given the supply-side excess for the Bigwig compared to the supply-side scarcity for the Wild One, retailers will adjust prices accordingly to get rid of excess stock of the former and capitalise on demand for the latter. It's probably a bit more complex than that, but you see the basic mechanism. There may also be other mechanisms at play. Tamiya probably doesn't have all of their models in production at the same time. This means that the supply of different models may not always be consistent, which may also lead to retailers adjusting prices accordingly. In this example, Tamiya may have the Bigwig currently in production, meaning that the supply is good, there are plenty of kits in store to cope with future demand and spares are plentiful. The last production run for the Wild One may have been several years ago, though. The model is still available, but stocks are lower and even though I would imagine there is a surge in demand whenever Tamiya release a new model or a new rere, I would think there is probably always a constant baseline level of demand for every kit. This means there is still demand, but now a relative supply-side shortage, compounded by the fact that models which were bought when the kit was first re-released may now have been in use for several years, leading to an increased demand for spares, replacement shells etc, some of which will be met by people breaking kits and selling parts off individually.
  4. Hi i am looking for a midnight pumpkin body set empty box. if anyone has one please let me know
  5. Today
  6. bought myself an early christmas present
  7. Good question which I cant give you an answer. I dont know any other models then the Dynas
  8. Until a manufacturer comes out with 1/10 scale dampers with seperate low and high speed compression shims plus low and hi speed rebound circuits with appropriate oil weights you'll never get that amazingly stable body floating appearance. I think it was actually Curnutt who figured out the importance of separating the low speed compression to give the shocks a "platform" to allow the high speed to work independently. This technology is big in the mountain bike world (cancels out peddle "bob") with Fox, Rock Shox, Manitou, Cane Creek etc all having a variation on it. I tend to use the lightest oil I can get away with so that the shocks rebound fast enough for the next hit so that they don't pack down. This dependant on the spring weight required to support the vehicle's mass - heavy car, stronger springs so harder oil and vice versa. The car should sag under its on own weight by 10/20% when loaded so that the wheel can dip into small holes whilst the body is level and give that "floaty" effect.
  9. Maybe it's down to commonality of parts? The Bigwig and the Boomerang are from a large family of cars, all similar but evolving over time: development costs are minimal for each new model and many chassis parts are shared, whilst the Wild One and Fox are pretty much one-offs, dead ends: all the r&d and manufacturing costs have to be recovered solely from selling quantities of these cars.
  10. You also have to consider the trade-off for that floaty suspension, namely on a 1:10 car it would make it virtually undriveable. If you watch that 1:1 scale video, watch how much body roll it suffers just by flicking into a slight curve. I suspect that makes it very difficult to handle, as the suspension will compress at every opportunity and the side-to-side wallowing motion will eventually build to the point where it would try and roll you over through a series of left-right-left-right flicks. The size and weight of the car will counteract this to an extent, plus the fact that obstacles, speed and distance are operating at 1:1 scale, so with enough skill the driver can hold that extremely unruly package together. On a 1:10 car, the counteracting forces are all either different or not there at all. It probably weighs less proportionately than the 1:1 car, and the weight is in different places, with a much lower CoG and no big, heavy engine high up and far forward. The speeds are proportionately MUCH higher, while obstacles and surface imperfections are proportionately much bigger, meaning the suspension is at full travel for much more of the time. Also, we tend to use our cars on much tighter courses than 1:1 scale cars, with corners much closer together. We have to do this, obviously, or the car would go out of range or out of sight. But the upshot is the car will have less time to reset to neutral between corners.
  11. Thanks guys for the responses. Mongoose - DO you have a small 3" one or larger? There seem to be mixed reviews on whether the small ones have enough power for the polishing / buffing wheels. I was hoping to go small rather than larger, mainly for noise, size on bench, and also dirt / dust which I assume wil be thrown further with a larger and faster wheel speed. Kayak - Nice finish. Definitely what I am after. My other option is to simply us my dremel and mount it in a clamp when I need to use it fixed to the bench. I guess that is not going to be so easy or quick to get an all over consistent finish for the larger parts as a larger wheel though.
  12. Well, before purchasing the spares, I'm thinking about these breakages from a while. Screw holes have been not tapped before but I've used another (well lubed) screw to prepare them, I've been delicate to avoid cracks and plastic overheat as in my habit. As shown by the pics cracks are not through the holes but in front of them and, IMO, it's pretty clear that the gearbox it's not well supported by the topdeck that allows a backwards movent during the impact. So I've realized that the problem should not depend by that screws but by the long step screws I've used instead the 3x25 self tapping screws showed in the manual. I guess that the allow the slack for the backwards movement of the entire gearbox that at a certain point cracks. Before ordering the spares I wil improve the structure mixing the Top-Force alluminum posts or ordering the 3x25 self-tapping screws.
  13. Every once in a a while I notice, what appears on the surface to be, some pricing anomalies in the Tamiya line-up. For example, Why is the Wild One $20 more than the Bigwig? The Bigwig has a higher parts count (being 4wd) plus the addition of bearings and a GT tuned motor and cost less than the more simplistic Wild One. Both are mostly plastic, so its not down to materials. When the were available the Nova Fox and Boomerang were much the same. Pre-MAP, the 2wd Nova Fox ran $189 while the 4wd Boomerang ran $164. Is it down to projected sales? Perceived popularity? From a strictly parts count and materials usage/amount standpoint it doesn't add up.
  14. I went the AmPro (Shapeways) reinforced arm upgrade route which required some drilling & metal rods & not cheap but it’s holding up to 10.5T brushless ok
  15. thanks for the hint with the pics. I have reuploaded them. Should work now. Give me a day or so and I will get dimensions. I will also try it onto my TXT-1 - thanks for the tip.
  16. A bit of dodgy one hand driving & one hand filming...
  17. Yes. I bought a Sport Tuned in 2017 and it was greenish brown. I thought it was very strange that it wasn't black like all of the pictures I saw.
  18. @Collin would those parts that you are designing mean you could take a Super Astute and turn it into a Dyna Storm? Or would it require a Dyna Storm restoration project?
  19. Andy, I use a 'huge' 8" wheel set on an old decommissioned (broken rest and missing shield) grinder from work. Pulled off all the shields, screwed to a mobile tool stand, it works great and is easy to swap buffs on. Sisal for heavy duty smoothing used with those greasy sticks of heavy compound, sewn cotton with normal grades and an unsewn/loose cotton (I like to call it a flapper, as it's all over the place for final shine and plastics. Remove the tool rest and guards, find a wheel you can get onto the arbor and you can really get a decent shine quickly on the SRB stuff. Mirror shines require sanding everything flat and smooth before attempting any polishing. The gear case has so many nooks and crannies, even with little tiny felt buffs and cotton wheels in a Dremel... you're going to be at it for a very long time. I just polished up my old SuperChamp and am in the process of trying to get a Rough Rider body fitted so I can do a Malcom Smith BelRay Bullet scheme... but so much is aftermarket... it's tough going. Wear eye protection (preferably a face shield!) and cotton gloves. I had the safety glasses on (thankfully!) when the CRP roll bar got yanked from my tired fingers... and that sucker hit me so hard in the face... you might as well have punched me. The safety glasses got a nice nick over the right eye... would have probably been poked out by that one. Polishing is messy... be prepared for lots of threads and crap flying about.
  20. They are the exact length, with a few spacers you can run most modern Tamiya CVs.
  21. Did a bit of this today after an old black can vs silver black can testing.. gotta love a pile of grass clippings 😁
  22. i've been getting that frequently often and or TAX deducted or reinstated, and the Visa over sea fee thing (i forget the actual term, it's not much). "You wanna Play? then you get to Pay". sometimes not often they'll put a Lil' gift in there, one time it was hard candy (No Thank You).
  23. i have found more good than bad on ebay as of the past two years than any other time since their conception. I had purchased a pair of new/used speakers that were hard to find, thus when received item there was only one speaker, Ebay sided with me, there's more to the story "he said, she said" scenario, very awkward to say the least. i have actually made several friends with some vendors that have treated me golden and they know i'm never in a rush for these materialistic items. every once in a while something comes damaged and well takes time but ebay pulls through for me every time. i'll be as polite as possible when typing, these very words and works like a charm every time (i do mean it with all sincerity though) with this "Hello and salutations" and and then state my case and finish with "Thank You with Kind Regards". ems.
  24. Well ( drum roll please ) I snagged a morning today to run my ORV with the Black Black can, then the newer Silver Black can on 2s. Now take the results as you will as the Black Black can has been used a few times mainly in my Blitzer compared to the Silver Black which is fresh out the box bar 15/20 minutes bench run from a single AA battery before installing it in the chassis. Black Black first up... Maximum 39 Km/r Silver Black.... Maximum 46Km/h 😁👍🏻... http:// So there we have it. I my case the Silver Black is a bit faster over the Black Black. There is mention of the ‘RS540 used as a base, with turns & timing tuned for more efficiency, power with minimal battery drain’ on the side of the box. I’m not going to argue with that, I’m more than happy with it’s performance 👍🏻
  25. I keep quite a bit of 10Wt oil in stock for various projects where I have access to smaller hole pistons, usually AE brand. The CST of oil weights does alter a little bit from brand to brand. However if I need less than 100cst/10Wt I typically reach for the bottle of 1/1 scale automatic transmission fluid. It’s a viable alternative if you need something super light, that won’t worry your silicon seals.
  26. Did the cracks occur through the screw holes? Did you tap the threads first? Were you gentle and patient with screwing them in? I don’t think TA01/2 gearboxes shouldn’t crack so easily, but I’ve only seen them with self-tapping screws. I have built one car 90% with machine screws. Now I’m worried.
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