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  2. Biz73

    Brushless lunchbox gearing

    I'm curious to see how that one is installed. It looks like it extends the motor shaft so you can use a regular pinion, rather than finding long ones like the stock pinion. What I have is similar, but the main disc doesn't have the side cutout like that one, which is why it won't work for smaller pinions. The disc hits the gearbox and can't move closer. I use one on my GrassHornet to run a 21tpinion, and it works great. I didn't try it with the stock motor mount on my Midnight Pumpkin, just direct on the gearbox like the GrassHornet. Here's the one I have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Hornet-Adjustable-Motor-Mount-Kit-Gear-Cover-Lunchbox-Grasshopper-16t-22t/303110480944?hash=item4692cae430:g:15oAAOxyVLNSo-FR
  3. kalsh

    The Day eBay Killed RC

    I live in NZ so we don5 have a large market place to purchase Rc stuff from so EBay has opened the world up for me to source car parts and new kits at reasonable prices or for hard to find parts. We have a local trading site where you see the really great deals (we have all been lucky at some stage to score a bargain) and also some sellers who have no idea about value and them low and behold someone pays what I think is a silly price as I suspect that it is simply people attachment/emotions that relate to something they owned in their childhood being stirred up by seeing it again. I waited about 10 years before I managed to bye a second hand sand scorcher for. $175NZ because everything else was going for over $500. One just has to be patient as things will pop up at a reasonable price at some stage. I miss the seller JR-RC who used to find all sorts of Tamiya stuff. He is in Australia now but doesn’t have nearly as much stuff as he used to on the Bay. I personally think EBay has opened up RC rather than kill it as I believe a lot more people have access so a bigger selling pool and bigger buying pool which I guess means bargains are harder to come by as there is more competition, it has probably however killed your local hobby shop unfortunately.....or we have? Oh and don’t start me on sniping......
  4. Asymair95

    Porsche 911 rally TT02

    First run is in the books. A really fun car to drive, just like the 240z is. Suspension was dang near perfect, going to leave it alone. Not surprising, since it is the same chassis as the 240z, with the same mods, and that one is dialed in nicely. Will try and get a video up at some point.
  5. While I agree that for the kiddies, it’ll be safer buying either a newer buggy or a remake, and letting them loose with that...because they will likely smash it... I really don’t think we need to say “vintage car X should not be run because it will break just by looking at it” Restore and run vintage cars gently. That’s all. But DO run them. Just remember they are historics. And like 1:1 historics, its nice to run them. It may even be nice for others to see them run. I don’t agree at all with the idea that people should avoid running vintage cars because of some myth about them being ultra fragile. It’s nonsense. Don’t jump them hard, smash them into trees, run them on stupidly rough terrain, or run them too long without servicing them... and there is nothing wrong with them. Even mechanical speed controllers will last for years and years with light running + a clean after each run. Some spares for Falcon are actually fairly cheap too, so keep some vintage spares handy if you like the idea of keeping the car vintage. It’s all a scaled-down parallel to owning a 1:1 classic. And people take millions of those classic cars out for Sunday drives around the world, every single weekend. There is no need to keep our vintage Tamiya toys locked away or shelved only, never “daring” to run them. You should also not feel required to “upgrade” every vintage car just to make it “runnable”. Not unless you want to run it hard and smash it. You can keep it original. But just need to be prepared to look after the car and maintain it with a few spares. But I argue that is a huge part of the fun of owning an historic car - provided your budget expectations around doing this, are realistic. ie. If you run the car a lot (once a month or more), you might need to spend a little money on it each year for tyres, or driveshafts or gears or something. If you run a vintage car occasionally, you won’t need to spend much on it at all. Even plastic wheel bearings will last for years, if fitted with molybdenum grease and cleaned after runs. I know because I grew up doing this, when I had zero money and had to make do with what I had. With care, vintage Tamiyas last forever.
  6. Thanks. I didn't realised 54496 contains screws, nuts etc.. that would be handy.
  7. Wooders28

    Brushless ESC for vintage racing?

    In use one in my Yokomo truck, finished 2nd in the B final at it's last outing, running a speed passion 6.5t. A better esc would give you more control over boost/timing , but I figured I'd just run a lower turn motor.
  8. If you can't find the manual, I can send you the link if you pm me (Unless someone else has the bearing list to hand??) 😉
  9. hanzo

    WR-02CB straight steering

    Thank you for pointing out the toe rod ball ends. Indeed they should be on the top side. Also the additional information which I think is valuable when setting up any car no matter what chassis. 🙏 Below is a pic before I installed the the Aluminium Hub Carrier. I must have installed them incorrectly after I installed the Aluminum Hub Carrier Hop-up. I have no idea why I didnt pick this up earlier! As wolfdogstinkus mentioned in another thread could be my ageing. :-) I'm going to correct this first, check rod-tie lengths before taking the car out for a run later. btw I also have Tamiya 53345 - Toe-In Rear Upright installed at the rear.
  10. I know it's obvious but take a look in the manual, I could do a list for you tomorrow but you'll get there quicker by yourself?
  11. Hibernaculum

    Ever have those days..?

    Yeah that’s totally true. And I’ve had kits with ESCs, and used them. But just the standard ESC from the kit, with no hassle required on my part. And yes, of course ESCs were the vintage/standard setup in some cases, from the late 1980s onward. But by “hassle” I mean - I recently did look into buying a newer (ish) buggy and fitting a basic brushless motor. And it struck me that the barrier to entry in the hobby was much more technical now than it used to be. Early 80s: MSC + any motor you like + any battery you like (that physically fit the car). Today: ESC vs motor vs battery has to be a combination that works and won’t damage each other, or the car. There are a huge number of options and less “standardisation”. To a total newcomer in the hobby, there is more research required. It’s become more nerdy and less “default”. You see countless questions online from newcomers asking “what combo?”. And it seems the only way to figure that out, is via tipoffs from others - and your own experience. Again, this is all easy to those who’ve done it and found the sweet combo they like. Or if you buy a pre-packaged chinese car with everything included. Or in many cases, Tamiya kits and the like still make it easier by including the ESC and motor in the kit. But step outside that, and there are a bazillion products and options. I was looking into buying the Schumacher XLS Masami a few months ago. Admittedly a retro car, but requiring third party electronics. And I settled on a combo that worked, and even confirmed with a hobby shop to make sure it was “ok” - and it was. But the more I researched it all, the more options I saw. And there are some serious pitfalls out there around combinations of third party ESC/motor/battery. Choose the wrong ones and there are issues, or something doesn’t fit the particular car you bought. So that leads you to “advice” videos and forums and all this. What for? We never had any of that in the 80s. Didn’t need it. Life was simple. I just feel the industry could make it all far, far easier to know which car works with what, based on some sort of compatibility chart or code system. Maybe that’s crazy and impractical. But I think that’s essentially what this thread is about - the assumptions people are making that a certain combo of equipment will fit a certain vehicle. Only to discover a crazy hassle nobody knew before. And with the enormous number of products on the market, there are more of those pitfalls out there now than ever before. Again though, I am a luddite in this topic, and my opinions will likely trigger 10 replies about how “it’s easy now!” or how it was never easier before, etc etc But from time to time on forums, I see the odd posting even from experts in the modern gear about how they “kinda miss” when there were simply less options or variables. I’ll shut up now, as I’ll only get howled down in this one I have no dog in this fight anyway... I love building Foxes with AM radios and MSCs. I bid everyone good luck with their builds tho, you have my admiration. I’ll be in my Jurassic R/C cave if you need me. Today I’m tinkering with the Tamiya Audi Quattro.
  12. HolidayDoc1980

    WANTED: Tamiya 53219

    Hi folks, I‘m looking for a set of Tamiya 53219 - touring car aluminium pressure plates. The set should be new in box. Please let me know if you‘ve got one for sale! Thx, Michael
  13. Jonathon Gillham

    Recommended kit

    Theres a good chance it comes with the TBLE-02S anyway. I've seen cars advertised with a 105 which came with a TBLE-02S as the 104/5 are old now. Sellers don't update their ads or product descriptions, especially for models that have been around a long time. Like you I prefer the TBLE-02S due to the versatility of it. I would email them and ask the question
  14. Hobgoblin

    The Day eBay Killed RC

    Anything like eBay where we ultimately decide the cost, do we have anyone but ourselves to blame? I genuinely believe you can lower a value of a specific product (in a niche hobby like this) by not playing along. Don't drive up prices with needless bidding, don't pay the asking price and be prepared to wait. I don't bid until the last 30 seconds. I have my price in mind and I'll go up in increments of a few pounds until it looks like the other person is going higher than me and then I dip out. At the end of the day, not winning auctions is kind of a good thing as it means I keep my money, and add some of next month's paycheck to it so I can go higher if I still want the next one. Keeps me from spunking money on passing fancies.
  15. Don79

    Recommended kit

    Appears to have TEU-104BK. According to tamiyausa: The TEU-104BK is intended to run the included 540 motor (27 Turns) found in most of Tamiya's assembly kits, and can handle up to a 25 Turn Tamiya Torque Tuned motor. I don't know what to make of that, and in a way it'd feel better to have a 02-S in case i want to go brushless at some point. I find it weird that the Neo fighter is 30 euro cheaper in Tamico given this but there might be stuff I'm missing.
  16. novicelad

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Still love Tamiya
  17. Nobbi1977

    The Day eBay Killed RC

    eBay has saved a lot of hobbies. I can get vintage bike parts that were unavailable 20 years ago because they were in someone’s shed and they had no way of finding a buyer. There will always be people asking the earth for junk but you mostly see it listed over and over again because no one will pay it. An item is only worth what people will pay, if you are complaining because parts now cost the maximum of what you will pay rather than a fraction of that then, unfortunately, that is the way markets work. If they have it and you will pay then it sells, if you will not pay but someone else will then it sells. People seem a little bitter because the seller is now getting the best price for their item. A wider market has pushed costs up because we are all chasing an ever decreasing quantity of stuff and competing with an ever increasing amount of people who want it. If you think RC is bad then look at the vintage bike market. Cars are out of reach for the middle range investors so bikes are the new favourite. Money is making nothing in the bank so people are buying “stuff” instead.
  18. ordered one from RC mart whilst I'm waiting for the slow boat Does anybody have a list of the humongous number of bearings that I need. Please if it makes a difference include 4ws version along with any good suppliers. Not sure I'll use body or wheels just have to wait and see
  19. Jonathon Gillham

    Recommended kit

    What ESC does it come with? As far as I know all the Tamiya ESC should handle the Sports Tuned motor fine. There is a lot of debate as to whether the Sports Tuned is a 27T motor with advanced timing ot a 23T motor. Either way, its pretty tame from the ESC point of view. A friend runs the Super Stock 23T on TBLE-02S (out of spec for the ESC) in a few cars and hasn't ever had a problem, and that includes in a Boomerang running on grass. Steel pinions are preferable as they don't wear out. The aluminium pinions do wear and can create a paste as the aluminium dust mixes with the grease, and this is bascially a grinding paste to wear your gearbox out. @Juggularuses silicon to prevent this. In saying it if you're sticking to brushed motors like the silvercan or sports tuned you should be fine for a while.
  20. Jonathon Gillham

    Brushless Motor & ESC recommendations

    Blinky is when the ESC has no turbo or boost or dynamic timing programmed in. Its called blinky because most ESC have a light that flashes to show that it is in this mode and legal for a stock class so its a quick way for scrutineers to check. FDR is final drive ratio. The Boomerang has 4 options from about 7.5 to 10.5 depending on the pinion gear. Modern cars have an unlimited range as you can change the pinion and sput to get anything. Check the manual on the page when you install the motor, it has a table. Mod is 'modified class', basically meaning the rules are open. Typically its the fastest class. It used to be the 10T brushed motors that needed heaps of maintenance, now its low turn brushless motors and a programmable ESC Do you have a link to the Hobbywing combo? It will no doubt work fine but probably won't be that fast. I've seen them without any endbell timing on the motor and just a basic ESC for that money. That TS120 and Surpass combo will be as fast as anything out there at the moment, well maybe a bit slower than a combo for twice the price, but close enough. At the moment the Surpass motor is keeping up with the USD120 motors easily. About 12 - 18months ago the motors had a massive leap in performance, so anything older will be slower
  21. DK308

    Recommended kit

    The Neo is a great build. And yes, you can run it with a steel pinion. I use a 19 tooth steel 0.8 mod in my Neo. What I really like about the Neo is he fact that it fits a wide range of packs. If you do the Neo, just remember to get a rubber sealed ball bearing kit for it. https://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1508&search=DT03
  22. Prescient

    Tamiya Bruiser

    No, the speaker has a 3.5 mm jack input so you can use a standard 3.5mm audio cable and splice it to the units horn connectors. Loads of space in a TXT/Clod/Bruiser as the speaker is small. I have used 10-20w double speakers before. You don't have to use an upgraded speaker. It's simply an option as the standard one in my opinion was poor. I tried alternative horns Inc those used for model railway and none cut it. The best option for sound is one of these https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=403577&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz6PnBRCPARIsANOtCw0ds2m-LsqXlNoO15dgb8cXlbMWyWdvSOKEqSo61pK3c9qGVQ9k4-oaAiLyEALw_wcB The ESS One is far superior to the alternatives as a sound module and speaker. Then buy a separate LED controller unit with LEDs for £15-£20 Costs more but well worth it.
  23. graemevw

    Brushless lunchbox gearing

    Cant find one available right now though.
  24. graemevw

    Brushless lunchbox gearing

    Thats a very good point. Im sure i saw one which came with a motor shaft extension and a thick mount like the original, cant find it now though.
  25. ThunderDragonCy

    Brushless Motor & ESC recommendations

    It will likelt come with 15t, but the 17t gearing is good for brushless. Both cars are 0.8mod.
  26. Biz73

    Brushless lunchbox gearing

    Depending on the motor mount, it may not let you lower the pinion, despite being sold as such. I could go up with mine no problem, it hits the gearbox when trying to go lower. I could get a 17t pinion on and it worked, but it wasn't fully meshed with the spur. If you're running on a track, you probably won't want the stock pinion due to the extra torque and it being a "wheelie" chassis. Mine is still running 6-cell nimh's, so lipo will make it even more prone to standing up on the rear down the straights.
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