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  2. Hope you have a lovely bit of time off between jobs @Mad Ax, surely there must be some break in the weather. It's been the most unbelievable winter. For me, my partner and son have gone away for a few days, so Friday starts this: Interrupted only with eating and a dog walk. I've had the TD4 kit for over a year but just recently it has piqued my interest again to build it. And since I'm home alone I can build it at the kitchen table, in just my pants if I want. Tomorrow is a big bike ride, beer and curry with mates. Sunday a hungover breakfast, maybe a return to the TD4, a long drive and a renewed effort to improve my 3d printing. Monday I'm going to spend time with my mum and make marmalade. Overall, I'm really quite looking forward to this Easter weekend.
  3. Picked up this HSP brontosaurus Pro in a package deal along with a couple of old Vkar Bison’s , a multi charger (AC and DC), 2x 5500 11.1v 65c-130c burst lipos ( one is a little puffy) , 2 x 3500 11.1v 25c lipos plus et another plastic parts box ( I guess one can never have too many of those) all for not a lot of money thinking hey if I can get one of them to go I can probably part the rest out. I spent half the day mucking around charging batteries, fixing broken wires on a transmitter battery connection and managed to get all 3 to run which was a surprise as they are all cheap 2.4G. The HSP wheels were binding so some quick sanding of the back of the hex’s sorted that’s immediately. Lots of other issues as expected on the vkars such as large split in one tire, a couple of shock bottom collars missing, lots of dirt and gunk yet to be cleaned off them all- that is perhaps a tomorrow job. Some WD40 on the rusty bits is in order. Need to drill some holes for one body which is not original(still has plastic on the outside despite a lot of scrapes from use). The Vkar’s electrics all work well once you realise the power switches on the controllers need a firm switch on but the HSP is a different story as it goes well in forward but brake and reverse are temperamental to say the least. I have googled the esc and you tube for suggestions on how to calibrate the 80a novatech esc but can’t find anything. I know I should probably just move it on but I don’t want it to beat me if you know what I mean. The issue I have is the esc has no set button - just an on and off switch. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can calibrate this it if it is at all possible? thanks in advance and some photos of the beasts.
  4. These tires are available to purchase now. I just ordered 2 sets for my JJ Ultimas.
  5. Well it's Friday again! And it's a Bank Holiday weekend, extra long with Friday and Monday off work. Except I officially finished my job yesterday, so this should now be personal holiday time, except wife and child are home for the next 4 days That should mean we'll do some family stuff, but my wife is a bit frazzled after a crazy work week, and the weather here has been awful with no sign of letting up for the next fortnight (there goes my 2 weeks off work...) so I think we'll just have a quiet one at home. Friday - get my daughter up in a mo, spend the day together at home. I think I'll cook a roast chicken this afternoon. Evening - probably spend some time in the studio, or maybe watch a film. Saturday - another day with my daughter, maybe take her out to an old house if the weather improves. Evening - cook up some ribs (from a packet) and watch a film with the wife. Sunday - Workshop Sunday! Really gotta make some progress on the race trailer, only 2 more Sundays before Iconic Cup. I spent all last weekend on it and mostly made the tail lift (pics still awaiting posting) but I haven't got the parts I need to install the servo yet. Also need to install the new control motor in the M03 and give it a once-over to make sure it's all set and ready to race. Evening - couple of beers and chill out in the studio. Monday - in theory we're meeting family at the beach, but if this torrential rain continues the sea will probably get to us first. Maybe just drive to my parents for the afternoon. Daughter is staying away all next week so wife and I will probably have pizzas and a film when we get home. Have yourselves a great weekend! Anybody got any RC stuff planned?
  6. I also used to be far too eager on the inputs. Perhaps because of running too lazy motorized buggies in the "formative" years . For me the change came with the M-05 - the opposite of what our competent @OoALEJOoO is suggesting. There probably is more roads leading to Rome, as a saying here says. With a FWD it's no fun spinning and you cannot do donuts, so the best you can do is to run it properøy. Then it became a goal to avoid wheelspin, brake loose enough so it did not just skid and turning in gentle so it does not spin or understeer. And not to forget; let the car finish the movement given by your last input before you give another (for instance; brake, wait for the car to settle, turn in). When I later got my XV-01 and used what I had learned I was instantly faster resulting in improved results for me in the postal racing.
  7. As suggested earlier I think it's a good idea to use a scaled up version of the current Racing by post course. Pylon80 suggested to multiply all measures by 1,5. So when the map for the "normal " round is official it's simple to make the scaled up one.
  8. @OoALEJOoO can I ask you, what is length of spacer/ post on front bumper on first photo?
  9. @skom25 All my TT-01 and TT-02 now have these braces. When installing them, you have to be careful to adjust the turnbuckle length carefully to avoid introducing camber and friction inadvertently. The connectors need to freely move around the ball, if not then as you say the suspension will not be free anymore. The spacer posts at the bumper need to be sized so that the beams are horizontal when the suspension is pressed around mid-way. This ensures friction is minimal across the suspension travel length. In my mind they serve a few purposes (if installed correctly as mentioned above): Improve wear resistance of front suspension moving parts. Specially on rally cars, which are run in dusty conditions, less slop = less wear. All suspension elements of my TT rally cars wear a lot less once the car is shimmed and have these braces. Makes cars sharper. Less slop also means small steering inputs are more immediately felt on the car. If you have a lot of slop, then small steering inputs might lag or take longer to see. Also, setup changes tend to be a bit more evident. I agree that it's not a major effect, but you can definitely see/feel it once most slop has been eliminated through full suspension & steering shimming and a stiff servo saver. Tougher chassis part crash resistance. I haven't fully tested this, but I think the braces should reduce stress at the chassis holes where the suspension arms mount, since some of the crash force will now go to the bumper mount. The upright is probably just as unprotected (it might be even worse, now that there is less compliance) but I'll rather break an upright than the chassis holes.
  10. Not much to update yet, since I have been distracted with other things.. Easter seems like a good time for painting the polycarbonate body shell.
  11. The front end looks pretty awesome. Especially the chassis brace and shock tower. The 25 degree kickback looks like it fits perfectly. I hope the suspension mounting is strong enough to absorb frontal impact. Did you consider a front suspension brace like Kyosho use on the Dirtmaster?
  12. @Pylon80 I think our thoughts are mutually inclusive. Indeed, tires need a skid angle to generate cornering force, my point is that the ground needs to be able to provide that force (grip) in order for the car to turn. If the surface can provide enough grip, then the tire will roll, if not then it would slide. Like you say, it follows that more skid angle requires more grip, therefore you can prevent skidding by turning less, as @skom25 pointed out. @Otis311 I am also working slowly in improving my driving and over-using full-lock is one of my bad habits too. Something that helps in building skill is driving a RWD car. With them you really need to understand and control both throttle & steering to go fast around a track without looking like a drunk driver . Once you get a good feel of a RWD nuances, when you switch to 4WD you are even quicker. Drive your M-06 (or even your TT-02 converted to RWD) and experiment.
  13. I was curious about those tracks.. but tracks as stand alone parts are quite pricey
  14. Let's put a Super Stock motor in there and see what happens 😬
  15. Yesterday
  16. I have the same transmitter. I have heard you can jailbreak/ hack them to unlock more functionality. Was it difficult?
  17. It's been raining here for the last two days so I have been driving my GF01FT inside chasing the dog. You folks are gonna get tired of hearing me saying how much fun this goofy thing is. It has the normal GF01 wheelie bar which some have speculated is next to worthless but that's not accurate. If you gun it from reverse to forward, it will "wheelie" on the wheelie bar as long as you hold the throttle. Just gunning it from a stand still will lift the front tracks about an inch then quickly drop back down. It's fast in the living room but pretty slow outside. Also, I can't decide if it's more fun to crawl super slow or run it like a hooligan. All this is with the stock 540, make me kinda want to drop a Torque Tuned in it. Honestly if I were to make a like of "must haves", the GF01FT would be in the top ten.
  18. Nearly finished up with Part 2 of my TamTech gear stuff. (continuation of previous long-winded post on March 21). Figured I'd post a pic of the progress. I still need to paint the side mirrors and finish up some small details.
  19. Glad this category is still gaining traction. And its still my primary category. Since i've just moved overseas and bought a house, i'll be getting back into the hobby soon once i settle in. Luckily there are 2x race tracks just around the corner from my place 😁
  20. This kind of thing is what 3d printing was made for. 😉
  21. I took the Rampage for a spin (literally), definitely more fun than any 2WD SCT I've driven even if it's more challenging to drive.
  22. I agree. If the battery tray was present, that would cinch it, but the one-piece rims almost assuredly mean its an original Mountaineer.
  23. I'm glad this thread got bumped. What a fantastic trip down memory lane. Funny thing too, I am still dreaming about the same kits I was dreaming about back then. I was just starting my freshman year at Baylor when I purchased a TA03 with an Airtronics Caliber shortly after David Jun won with one. I ran it for a couple months then sold it for a buggy. I can't even remember which buggy and I kick myself for doing so but I was a dumb kid. If I could jump in the go back machine, I'd grab several more TA03's and a couple of HPI RS4's. Also, call me crazy but it's great seeing saddle pack NiCads and nothing but brushed motors. I may be showing my bias but I feel the mid 90's was the high water mark for RC cars.
  24. I have almost finished this. I need to tweak a few things so will add photos to the build thread when I do. It's a 1977 Nikko 18 wheeler. Rebuilt to modern standards and electronics. 3D printed gearbox running a 6:1 ratio and 370 motor. Micro servo for 5th wheel And a few other 3D printed parts. At the moment it's on 7.2 AA pack and 40 percent throttle EPA as it's a powerful 370 and I don't want to damage gears or go too fast. It's still a hoot to drive and has an amazing steering throw and tiny turning circle. 5th wheel works well although I need to replace the hair pin connecting the servo with thread so it transmits tension forces but not compression. I am looking to print a 1/24 Edgarmon to drive it.
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