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  2. Anthroxoid
    Oh nice bodywork. I’m subbing to see how you make out and congrats on getting the RC disease!
  3. Anthroxoid
    My vote for a lasting 4WD to keep around is for the regular Optima Mid. I’m not brand loyal but if you’re going for an older design to keep around the ‘22 Mid is fantastic. I’d say probably the only critical modification that it needs for rough running is one of the various undertrays in order to help it plane over grass clumps and keep the crap out of the chassis, but they are great runners and fun to build. Maybe a HotShot II would be my second pick as long as I was allowed to put enough power into it to make up for the drag in the drive train. I like the way that Hot Shots drive on smooth surfaces but they kinda suck in the rough without making the suspension work better. The tires are also a great mixed terrain pattern. PS—you should build a fancy Tamiya kit when you are presented with thst opportunity. They’re a different kit style entirely compared to most Kyoshos and that adds to the novelty. I don’t want to state the obvious though perhaps this isn’t talked about often in vintage forums, but you can control the pitch of your car “in flight” with the throttle. Punch it forward and the acceleration of the tires will lift the nose up, and similarly, if you’re banking to one side in the air, try steering the wheel while the tires are still spinning and you can level the car out for a smoother landing on all fours which is basically the same gyro effects that motorbikes use to do wild tricks.
  4. Pylon80
    Rush plus Tamiya wheels is just on the loose side. I'll try to take a picture. I was hoping someone had tried that combination before I permanently glue the tires.
  5. Today
  6. Andreas W
    No experience with them, but seems better for wheels that we like than Ride. They are Ø47mm, so the rim drops straight into the tyre and no glue in the world can fix that . I normally bend the bead up a little wuthe the thumb and apply a det of CA. Normally 4 dots each side.
  7. GTodd
    Pretty cool video from AE.
  8. GTodd
    Its right in line with other quality rere. Its a good price for 2024.
  9. Thommo
    And....... according to Tamiyabase Astute release date is 3rd September 1989 so officially released only 2 x days before the event.
  10. RyantheRed
    Since im not gonna use all the decals and paint it like the box, i should have done the same thing. I basicly wanted the box i guess 😂. It will probobly be smashed up when it gets here... The avante motor made here today. Im guessing the egress will take weeks. I can swap the rotor and test/tune that while im waiting. I have some big plans for how this car will look. It should be a fun build- Thats what everyone says anyway. Im excited.
  11. Marchie
    2-part epoxy seems to be holding up so far. Won't declare victory prematurely, but I'm not buying new parts just yet either. To be honest, I now recall that that thread wasn't holding properly when I built it. Note to self: next time I think "Nah, it'll be fine"... No, no it won't, fix it now.
  12. Anthroxoid
    Well hey, the friendly FedEx ninja stopped by and left a large parcel on the front porch. Seeing as it contains a regular 2013 Egress Re-Re I cast my vote as this being better than the Black since I don’t have the latter in the shop
  13. RyantheRed
    Another good mail day! Some misc stuff and a avante special motor for the Egress! -That was fast, it beat the egress here. Seems like i ordered it like sunday. Ill have to check... ryan
  14. DaveBuildsRC
    The price is not bad really as well the clear is 319 and this one which looks nicer is only 60 more.
  15. RyantheRed
    Minor after-bash repairs and adjustments to the trophy truck.
  16. lee82gx2
    I'd like to ask if even the pinion gear shaft is interfering with the original gearbox cover?
  17. IXLR8
    I'm an incurable Jeepaholic. I bought this FMS-ROC Hobby 1/6 scale Jeep a couple years ago and although I like driving it, it’s always seemed a bit too slow for me – it’s truly a “Crawler”. So today I replaced the FMS-branded 35t 550 motor with a peppy little Traxxas 20t 540 unit. Now, it’s fast enough to fling payload out of the trailer… … but not quite this fast. I’ve also taken some time today to do a little research. Please pardon me while I geek-out on a little Jeep history. The US Government’s contract to produce Jeeps was awarded to Willys-Overland Motors and Ford Motor Company in 1941. The Jeep’s design actually belonged to Bantam USA (they won the design contest) but the US War Department’s daily production requirement greatly exceeded Bantam’s manufacturing capacity (they employed 15 workers at the time) so manufacturing rights were handed to Willys and Ford. Of the roughly 647 thousand WWII Jeeps, about 277 thousand were made by Ford. Anyway, during war-time production, Willys' Jeep was known as an “MB” while Ford's were called the “GPW” (G=government, P=wheelbase code (80”), and W=Willys engine design). This FMS RC model is marketed as a “1941 Willys MB”. Early Willys Jeeps included a multi-part grille (similar to the original Bantam’s) that was constructed from flat stock – they are called “slat grille MBs”. Since the Willys grille was (needlessly) complex, Ford suggested a much simpler-to-make single-piece stamped steel part (it featured 9 slots), the Government approved the design change so all Fords and post-‘41 Willys featured the new stamped grille. This FMS model includes the 9-slot grille so it cannot be a ’41 Willys but it could be ’42 or later. But there’s more. There are a few subtle differences between Willys' MB and Ford's GPW; The glove box door and speedometer markings to name a couple. This model actually includes the projected glove box door and speedometer marked in 1 MPH increments which were featured in the Ford GPW. The MB's glove box doors were flat and speedos were marked in 10 MPH increments. So why is FMS calling this a “Willys MB”? Probably because most fans of the Jeep have always associated it with Willys-Overland; it’s a "Willys Jeep". Also, since Willys-Overland Motors no longer exists (the company became defunct when it merged with Kaiser in 1953), this saves FMS licensing costs. I’ve also learned that: “Jeep” is not slang for GP “GP” does not mean “general purpose” and “Willys” is pronounced “will – ess” not “will – ease”. Okay, most of this will appear on Monday's exam. I hope you were taking notes.
  18. GTodd
    The tops are different BUT the rere Terra Scorcher are the exact same dimensions.
  19. GTodd
    Look, I love Tamiya that said AE does not need the spare support that Tamiya does. You aren't going to brake anything. It's a vintage rere you can get ANYTHING online.
  20. Juggular
    I've been looking for the cheapest price for maybe 50-70 rubber-shielded bearings. The best price I found is $3.39 for ten. Have you guys seen better deals out there? I've seen other odd sized bearings for less, like $2.80 for ten. But not for 850 bearings. Edit: Found some reasonable stuff. For 3 sets of Tamiya tracks, I'd need about 100 of 850 bearings. $27 for 100 bearings isn't too bad. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832642540381.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1802YDdOQD&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
  21. one_hit
    ^ not sure about Sanwa, but I can still get FASST receivers for my 15 year old 4PK. But why would I, when I can get cheaper, smaller Chinese receivers that I can use on both my 4PX and 10PX.
  22. Frog Jumper
    CVA1.0 parts for Sand Viper.
  23. Re-Bugged
    Cheers @Tamiyastef 👍🏻 Funny you should mention that, as Mrs RB and myself started framing up a Sand Scorcher box and some other Tamiya art works the day before 😃. Not that I have much room to hang them 🤣 I do wonder sometimes though how well some photos would enlarge? Ones that I’ve taken with my daughters nice camera would probably stand a better chance than ones with my phone.
  24. Yesterday
  25. Marchie
    EDIT: Sorry, just realised your looking for a way to get the same finish on BOTH sides of the wing edge - I would be interested in knowing if there's a way to do this too. (Can't see an option to simply delete my post...) As you were...
  26. Tamiyastef
    @Re-Bugged https://tcphotos.net/image/ffJBO Poster material IMO.
  27. Pylon80
    A long shot, but I thought I would ask... Has anyone tried to fit Rush tires onto Tamiya wheels? I bought the Rush 36 "round type", the rubber feels very promising, nice and tacky. But then they seem very loose on the m-chassis 11 spoke wheels I am debating pushing them sideways to help the tires conform to the rim while the CA glue sets, or trying to source Rush wheels, with uncertain offset and compatibility with the current car and body that I have. Thanks!
  28. Saito2
    You should check out RC10Talk. They really seem to be into RC10s over there . Seriously though, its a bottomless resource for all things RC10. To answer your question, Sabula Tech has a couple vintage options including the Jammin' Jumper body I've been contemplating for my Graphite Team Car.
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